BANCROFT 
LIBRARY 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/californiapacifiOOraymrich 


CALIFORNIA,  THE  PACIFIC  NORTHWEST, 

-WORLD'S     COL  TIMBIA.N'    LJ^POSITION. 

FOUR    SI>RING    XOURS 

LKA-viNG    Boston    Af>riIv    24    and    PvIay    24,    1893. 


RAYMOND  &  WHITCOMB,  296  Washington  Street  (opp.  School  Street),  Boston,  Mass, 


.  .  .  SEASON  OF   1893  .  .  .    ^i/P  'Ili*     '  *-' 

FOUR  SPRING  AND  EARLY  SUMMER  TOURS. 


Colorado,  California,  the  Pacific  Northwest,  ALASKA,  the  Yellow- 
stone National  Park,  and  the  World's  Columbian  Exposition — an 
82-days'  Trip.     (See  pages    11-117.) 

The  Same,  Omitting  Alaska  —  a  75-days'  Trip.     (See  pages  I  19-143.) 

California,  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  Rocky  Mountains,  Colorado,  and 
the  Columbian  Exposition  —  a  69  days'  Trip.  (See  pages  145- 
173.) 

The  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  Alaska,  the  Northwest,  the  Yellow- 
stone Park,  and  the  Exposition  —  a  52-days'  Trip.  (See  pages 
1 79- 1  9 1.)  _ 

RAYMOND    &    WHITCOMB, 

206    Washington    Street    (opposite    School    Street),    Boston. 

AUERICAft    PRINTINQ    A    ENGRAYINQ    CO.,     SO    ARCH     ST.,     BOSTON. 


THE   RAYMOND   &   WHITCOMB    GRAND, 
RAYMOND  &  WHITCOMB,  Proprietors.  OSCAR  G.  BARRON,  Manager. 

uated  on  59th  St.,   between  Madison  and  Washington    Avenues,   facing  the   Midway   Plaisance  of  the  World's  Fair 
Grounds,  Chicago.     Built  especially  for  the  acconannodation  of  the   Raymond  &  Whitcomb 
Excursion  Parties  during  the  World's   Fair. 


TOURS    ACROSS    THE   CONTINENT, 


General   Information   Relating   to  all  Raymond   &  Whitcomb 
Excursions  to  the  Pacific  Coast. 


Suggestions  in  Regard  to  Joining  a  Party. 

PERSONS  desiring  to  join  a  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  excursion  party  should  send 
their  names  to  be  registered  at  as  early  a  date  as  convenient.  A  name  is  regis- 
tered as  soon  as  an  intention  to  go  is  expressed,  and  this  registration  secures  a 
place  in  the  cars,  at  hotels  where  sojourns  may  be  made,  and  in  every  way  insures  mem- 
bership in  the  party.  No  payment  of  money  is  required  in  this  connection,  and  no 
responsibility  is  incurred.  If  circumstances  prevent  the  person  from  going,  notice  of 
the  fact  should  be  sent  to  us,  and  the  name  will  be  taken  from  the  list,  and  the  next 
applicant  permitted  to  fill  the  vacancy.  Tickets  can  be  taken  and  paid  for  at  the  con- 
venience of  the  passenger  any  time  to  within  about  one  week  of  the  date  of  departure; 
and  should  the  passenger  then  be  prevented  from  going,  the  money  will  be  refunded. 
The  advantage  of  sending  in  names  early  is  readily  seen.  In  all  cases  the  parties  are 
limited  in  numbers,  and  it  frequently  occurs  that  parties  are  filled  long  before  the  dates 
of  departure. 

3 


Persons  are  not  compelled  to  come  to  Boston  for  the  purpose  of  joining  an  excur- 
sion, but  may  connect  with  the  train  at  any  convenient  point  along  the  route.  The 
sleeping-car  berths  are  assigned  previous  to  the  date  of  starting,  and  those  belonging 
to  passengers  who  join  at  points  on  the  route  are  invariably  held  for  them  until  they 
are  required. 

How  Our  Parties  Travel. 

Two  features  of  our  various  transcontinental  excursions  are  of  special  importance. 
One  is  the  employment  of  Pullman  vestibuled  sleeping  and  composite  cars  of  the  latest 
pattern;  the  other,  the  use  of  dining-cars.  The  vestibuled  train  is  the  latest  and 
greatest  development  of  the  idea  put  forth  by  George  M.  Pullman  in  the  sleeping-car 
— that  of  providing  the  most  comfortable,  the  most  luxurious,  and  the  safest  transit 
for  the  railway  passenger.  We  were  the  first  to  run  vestibuled  trains  through  to  the 
Pacific  coast,  and  also  the  first  to  establish  a  dining-car  service  between  the  East  and 
California.  In  the  belief  that  our  patrons  demand  everything  possible  in  the  way  of 
first-class  and  elaborate  service,  we  have  made  contracts  with  the  Pullman  Palace  Car 
Company  to  provide  these  luxurious  appointments  —  vestibuled  trains  of  the  newest 
and  most  elegant  design,  with  palace  sleeping-cars  and  dining-cars  —  for  all  our  out- 
ward California  excursions,  and  also  for  our  returning  parties,  whenever  practicable. 

In  all- cases  the  dining-cars  will  be  supplied  with  everything  afforded  by  the  best 
markets  of  the  country,  as  it  is  intended  to  make  the  table  equal  to  that  of  the  leading 
hotels.  By  the  use  of  the  dining-car  three  meals  a  day  at  regular  hours  are  insured. 
This  is  an  important  consideration  to  many  travelers,  to  whom  delays  and  detentions 
may  mean  not  only  discomfort,  but  illness. 

The  composite  cars  are  also  a  valuable  innovation,  each  one  containing,  besides  a 
commodious  smoking-room,  a  bath-room,  a  barber's  shop,  and  a  well-selected  library. 

4 


Only  two  persons  are  placed  in  a  section  of  the  sleeping-cars  (every  passenger  being 
entitled  to  an  entire  double  berth,  half  a  section)  and  only  two  persons  in  each  state- 
room on  the  Alaska  steamer. 

The  advantages  of  a  special  train  service  to  be  enjoyed  by  our  parties  under  personal 
escort  need  not  be  urged,  as  they  will  be  readily  perceived.  In  New  Mexico,  Cali- 
fornia, Colorado,  and  elsewhere,  facilities  for  leisurely  sight-seeing  are  gained  thereby. 
In  fact,  the  schedules  are  arranged  expressly  for  the  purpose  of  affording  superior 
facilities  for  sight-seeing  and  for  visiting  points  of  note.  Ordinary  travelers  going 
alone  have  no  such  opportunities,  often  passing  the  most  interesting  places  in  the 
night.  Another  consideration,  which  has  much  to  do  with  the  comfort  of  a  passenger 
on  a  long  railway  ride,  is  this :  Our  trains  are  always  run  at  a  safe  and  moderate  rate 
of  speed,  thus  enhancing  the  pleasures  of  sight-seeing  and  insuring  an  agreeal^le 
journey. 

Our  parties  are  always  under  the  charge  of  competent  conductors,  who  devote  their 
entire  time  and  attention  to  the  welfare  and  comfort  of  the  passengers,  and  who 
superintend  all  business  arrangements.  Hotel  accommodations  are  arranged  in  advance, 
checked  baggage  is  at  all  times  cared  for,  and  in  other  particulars  the  members  of  the 
party  are  relieved  of  many  petty  cares  and  annoyances  inseparable  from  ordinary 
travel.  Thus  the  tourist  is  left  to  the  fullest  enjoyment  of  the  journey,  while  appointed 
agents  attend  to  the  task  of  arranging  its  details. 

Hints  About  Clothing. 
Although  the  excursions  described  in  this  book  are  to  be  made  in  the  pleasantest 
part  of  the  year,  and  at  a  time  when  a  mild  temperature  is  likely  to  prevail,  provision 
should  be  made  to  guard  against  sudden  changes.     Warm  clothing,  with  light  over- 

5 


coats,  shawls,  or  convenient  wraps,  which  may  be  brought  into  service  or  discarded, 
as  required,  is  an  essential  part  of  the  outfit.  In  the  outward  journey  through  New 
Mexico,  Arizona,  and  Southern  California,  and  the  homeward  one  by  the  Northern 
Pacific  or  Ogden  route,  the  temperature  may  be  warm,  and  clothing  should  be  pro- 
vided accordingly,  but  wraps  should  always  be  at  hand  for  evening  use  in  case  of 
necessity. 

The  railway  rides  through  some  sections  —  chiefly  across  the  deserts  —  may  be 
dusty,  and  dust  is  likely  to  be  encountered  in  journeying  about  California.  This  fact 
should  govern,  to  some  extent,  the  selection  of  materials  for  traveling  suits,  and  ren- 
der "  dusters  "  of  special  utility. 

Warm  underclothing  should  always  be  worn.  However  warm  the  days  may  be  on 
the  Pacific  Coast,  the  evenings  and  nights  are  cool.  The  dryness  of  the  atmosphere, 
too,  renders  a  high  temperature  much  less  to  be  dreaded  than  in  the  East.  As  to  the 
San  Francisco  climate,  it  is  worthy  of  note  that  the  residents  of  that  city  are  accus- 
tomed to  wear  the  same  thickness  of  clothing  the  year  through.  The  temperature  in 
the  northern  regions  we  are  to  visit  is  delightful  in  spring  and  summer. 

In  the  Yosemite  trip  strong  and  serviceable  clothing  and  a  pair  of  stout  walking- 
shoes  or  boots  will  be  best ;  and  these  will  be  useful,  of  course,  in  other  parts  of  the 
excursions,  especially  in  Colorado  and  the  Yellowstone  National  Park.  Visitors  to 
the  Yosemite  should  be  content  to  leave  finery  behind,  and  baggage  should  also  be 
discarded  to  as  great  an  extent  as  possible.  The  same  remarks  will  apply  to  the 
Yellowstone  National  Park,  where  the  traveler  should  be  prepared  with  clothing 
which  dust  cannot  injure,  good  walking-shoes,  and  wraps  for  evening  wear.  There 
are  few  nights  within  the  park,  even  in  midsummer,  without  frosts.  Rubbers  or 
"gum  "  shoes  and  waterproof  coverings  will  suggest  themselves.     A  piece  of  mosquito 

6 


netting,  which  can  be  worn  over  the  face  and  neck  in  certain  parts  of  the  park,  will 
also  be  serviceable. 

For  the  Alaska  voyage  one  should  dress  as  warmly  as  for  an  Atlantic  Ocean 
voyage,  but  no  warmer,  since  that  should  mean  woolens  and  wraps.  Strong  and 
serviceable  clothing  and  stout  shoes  are  prime  necessities  for  Alaska  as  well  as  for 
the  National  Park.  Ladies  should  remember  that  the  decks  of  a  steamer  are  always 
washed  down  in  the  morning,  and  that  trailing  skirts  are  under  such  circumstances 
undesirable.  A  gossamer  for  ladies,  a  mackintosh  for  gentlemen,  rubber  shoes  or 
boots,  and  umbrellas,  are  likely  to  suggest  themselves.  Most  of  the  sight-seeing  is 
from  the  steamer's  deck,  but  it  is  better  to  be  prepared  for  little  land  expeditions  in 
all  weathers.  Rains  come  frequently  and  with  little  heralding,  making  rubber  garments 
and  an  umbrella  useful  companions.  Closely-fitting  outer  garments  are  of  course  more 
convenient  on  the  breezy  deck  than  loose  cloaks  or  shawls. 

Walking  over  the  glaciers  is  difficult  and  in  places  dangerous.  At  the  Muir  Glacier, 
a  landing  may  be  desirable,  but  there  is  likely  to  be  little  traveling  done  except  on  the 
lateral  moraines,  and  no  special  preparation  is  desirable  for  that  kind  of  work  beyond 
what  has  already  been  suggested.  Alpenstocks  and  canes  can  be  obtained  of  the 
baggage  porter  on  the  steamer.  Steamer  chairs,  if  desired,  can  be  obtained  generally 
of  the  deck  stewards  on  the  steamer ;  and  also  at  Tacoma,  Port  Townsend,  or  Vic- 
toria.    They  can  be  leased  for  the  voyage  if  returned  in  good  condition. 

*'  Stop-Over  "  Privileges. 

Our  tickets  as  a  rule  allow  the  holder  the  privilege  of  stopping  over  for  about  nine 
months  from  the  date  of  issue  in  California,  Oregon,  or  Washington,  or  at  any  point 
on  the  return  trip  between  the  Pacific  Coast  and  Chicago.     In  the  case  of  the  parties 

7 


mentioned  herein,  the  returning  coupons  (excepting,  of  course,  those  for  the  Yellow- 
stone Park,  which  expire  with  the  season,  and  for  the  World's  Fair,  which  closes 
November  i),  will  be  good  until  December  31,  1893. 

Member^  of  these  parties  who  leave  them  at  any  point  west  of  Chicago,  afterward 
coming  east  independently,  can  proceed  on  the  regular  trains  directly  through  to  the 
Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  station  in  Chicago  by  the  Albert  Lea  or  Rock  Island 
Route.  In  order  to  insure  hotel  accommodations  at  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb 
Grand,  they  must  notify  Carroll  Hutchins,  agent  for  Raymond  &  Whitcomb,  at  The 
Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand,  Midway  Plaisance,  Chicago,  positively  one  week  in 
advance  of  their  arrival. 

Persons  returning  eastward  independently  from  Chicago,  or  any  point  west  thereof,  are 
required  to  exchange  their  passage  and  sleeping-car  tickets  in  Chicago.  This  may  be 
done  either  at  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway  ticket  office.  Blue  Island  Junction  ; 
at  the  ticket  office  in  the  Dearborn  station  (Polk  street,  head  of  Dearborn  street), 
Chicago;  at  the  city  ticket  office  of  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  103  South 
Clark  street,  Chicago,  E.  H.  Hughes,  agent ;  or  at  the  office  of  Raymond  &  Whitcomb, 
in  the  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  Hotel,  Midway  Plaisance,  Chicago,  Carroll 
Hutchins,  agent.  Applications  for  sleeping-car  accommodations  must  be  addressed  to 
Mr.  Hutchins  or  Mr.  Hughes. 

Stop-over  privileges  are  allowed  at  Niagara  F'alls,  but  not  elsewhere  east  of 
Chicago.  In  order  to  avail  themselves  of  the  stop  at  Niagara  Falls,  passengers  can 
leave  Chicago  at  3.00  p.  m.,  arrive  at  Niagara  Falls  in  the  morning,  and  remain  there 
until  afternoon. 

Where  no  dining-cars  are  ordinarily  run,  passengers  returning  independently  will  be 
furnished  with  meals  at  dining-stations  en  route. 


Persons  remaining  in  San  Francisco  later  than  June  12,  1893,  should  apply,  before 
leaving  for  the  East,  to  our  agent,  Clinton  Jones,  No.  36  Montgomery  street,  San 
Francisco,  for  information  and  assistance  in  connection  with  the  signing  of  the  excur- 
sion ticket,  securing  sleeping-berths,  etc.  Persons  returning  independently  can  also 
apply  for  information  or  assistance  to  our  Pacific-Northwest  agent,  A.  D.  Charlton, 
No.  121  First  street,  Portland,  Or. 


For  any  further  desired  information  apply  in  person  or  by  letter  to 

RAYMOND  &  WHITGOMB,  236  Washington  St.  (opposite  School  St.),  Boston. 


A  GRAND  TOUR  FROM  THE  ATLANTIC  TO  THE  PACIFIC 

AND    A    VOYAGE   TO 

*  ALASKA* 

WITH    VISITS    TO 

Many    Picturesque    Places    in    Colorado,    New    Mexico,     Arizona,    California,    Oregon, 

Washington,   and  ALONG  THE  BRITISH   COLUMBIAN   COAST,  and. 

also  in  Idaho,   Montana,  etc.,  with   a  week  in  the 

yellona/stone:  national  park 

And  another  week   at  the 

WORLD'S  COLUMBIAN   EXPOSITION. 


The    Party  to    Leave    Boston    Monday,  April  24,  and  to  Return   Friday,  July   14. 


Price  of  Tickets  (ail  Traveiing  and  Hotei  Expenses  included),  $725.00. 


RAYlVlOlSriD    &    WHIXCOMB, 
296   Washington   Street   (opposite  School  Street),  Boston. 


SIXTH    ANNUAL   SPRING   EXCURSION 

TO  

COI^ORflLDO,  Cai^IFORNia,  the  Pffl^ClFlC  NORXH^WESX, 

ALASKA, 

And  the  Yellowstone  National  Park,  with  a  Visit  to  the 
MrORI^D*S     COI^UMBI^N     EXI>OSIXION, 

April    24    to    July    14,    1893. 


FOUR  complete  tours  across  the  continent  are  included  in  our  excursion  arrange- 
ments for  the  spring  and  early  summer  of  1893.  In  each  instance  a  full  week 
will  be  spent  at  the  Columbian  Exposition.  We  shall  first  describe  a  trip  that  is 
unexampled  in  extent  and  variety  —  a  comprehensive  journey  through  the  length  and 
breadth  of  our  country,  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  and  from  the  Mexico  line  to 
Alaska.  The  Pacific  Coast  will  be  traversed  for  over  3,000  miles,  and  all  its  marvels 
maybe  seen  —  the  luxuriant  orchards  and  gardens  of  Southern  California,  the  Yosemite 
Valley,  the  matchless  mountain  scenery  of  the  Pacific  Northwest,  and  the  vast  glaciers 
of  Alaska.  To  these  are  added  the  wonderfully  picturesque  gorges  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  "life  on  the  plains,"  the  quaint  native  life  in  the  far  Northwest,  the 
Yellowstone  National  Park,  and  Niagara  Falls. 

13 


No  excursion  ever  planned  has  surpassed  this  one  in  its  combination  of  American 
wonders.  In  fact,  it  would  be  impossible  to  bring  together  in  a  single  tour  of  like 
duration  —  eighty-two  days  —  a  greater  number  of  truly  grand  attractions. 

A  Complete  Round  of  Sight-Seeing. 
Great  progress  has  been  made  within  the  past  decade  in  rendering  the  remoter 
regions  of  our  vast  national  domain  accessible  to  the  tourist,  and  united  to  this  fact 
is  the  equally  important  one  that  our  special  excursion  trains  carry  to  the  most  distant 
points  comforts  and  luxuries  previously  unki^own.  After  a  complete  round  of  Colo- 
rado, New  Mexico,  California,  and  Oregon,  the  Alaskan  voyage  will  be  performed  on 
the  staunch  and  elegant  steamship  "  Queen,"  the  finest  vessel  in  the  fleet  owned  by 
the  Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Company.  The  steamer  trip  will  occupy  ten  or  eleven 
days.  All  the  famous  scenic  points  in  Southern  Alaska  which  have  made  the  Alaska 
tour  so  famous  will  be  visited,  including  Fort  Wrangel,  Juneau,  the  Douglas  Island 
gold  mines,  Chilkaht,  Sitka,  and  the  great  Muir  Glacier  on  Glacier  Bay.  There  will 
be  time  for  landing  and  sight-seeing  at  all  the  chief  points  of  interest,  and  everywhere 
the  tourists  will  have  unsurpassed  opportunities  for  scanning  the  wonderful  scenery  of 
our  northernmost  possessions,  and  for  studying  the  quaint  and  primitive  native  life. 
The  entire  route  from  Puget  Sound  to  the  farthest  northern  point  reached  is  lined 
with  scenes  of  awe-inspiring  character  —  mountains  of  great  height,  with  almost 
fathomless  depths  at  their  very  feet ;  cascades,  which  seem  to  tumble  from  the  sky 
Itself;  densely  wooded  shores,  whose  solitudes  have  never  yet  been  invaded  by  man; 
and  vast  fields  of  snow  and  ice,  which  glow  in  the  sunlight  like  plains  of  gold  and 
silver.  Thousands  of  mountain  peaks  are  seen  that  no  man  has  ever  visited,  and 
that  are  as  yet  even  unnamed.     In  Alaska  great  glaciers,  many  fold  larger  than  the 

14 


grandest  ice  fields  of  Switzerland,  flow  down  to  the  sea,  mingling  with  the  floods  of 
the  ocean  and  breaking  off  in  huge  masses  of  fantastical  shapes.  In  no  part  of  the 
world  is  there  so  much  wild  grandeur  encompassed  in  a  voyage  of  equal  duration. 

The  earlier  parts  of  the  tour,  embracing  the  finest  Rocky  Mountain  scenery  of 
Colorado,  the  ancient  civilization  of  New  Mexico,  and  the  various  interests  of  Cali- 
fornia from  Coronado  Beach  to  Shasta,  will  be,  in  their  way,  equally  attractive ;  and 
so  will  the  later  weeks,  crossing  the  continent  homeward  by  the  northern  route,  and 
visiting  the  matchless  Yellowstone  Park.  The  trip  will  culminate  in  an  .ample  stay 
at  the  World's  Fair  at  a  very  desirable  season  —  the  early  summer.  This  is  an 
exceptionally  interesting  feature  of  the  tour. 

The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  Hotel. 

All  previous  international  exhibitions  are  to  be  surpassed  in  extent  and  interest  by 
the  World's  Columbian  Exposition  of  1893.  The  indications  are  that  there  will  be  a 
vast  concourse  of  strangers  from  every  part  of  America  and  Europe,  and  that  even 
the  increased  hotel  accommodations  of  Chicago  will  be  taxed  to  the  utmost.  In  view 
of  this  fact,  and  for  the  purpose  of  providing  our  patrons  with  the  best  possible 
facilities  for  visiting  the  great  Fair,  and  with  comfortable  and  luxurious  accommoda- 
tions while  there,  we  have  contracted  with  a  well-known  firm  of  Chicago  architects 
and  builders,  Barry  Brothers,  to  erect  a  commodious,  first-class  hotel,  near  the 
Exposition  grounds.  Work  was  begun  on  this  building  in  the  autumn,  and  it  is  now 
nearing  completion.  The  site  selected  is  upon  three  prominent  boulevards  (where 
heavy  teams  are  not  allowed)  and  fronting  the  Midway  Plaisance,  the  main  front  of 
300  feet  upon  Fifty-ninth  street,  with  250  feet  on  Washington  avenue  and  100  feet  on 
Madison  avenue.    The  hotel,  in  fact,  has  the  largest  street  frontage  of  any  private 

15 


edifice  in  Chicago.  Though  within  less  than  i,ooo  feet  of  one  of  the  main  entrances 
to  Jackson  Park  (where  the  main  part  of  the  Exposition  is  centred)  the  situation  is 
quiet  and  retired,  being  in  the  midst  of  a  fashionable  residence  section.  The  Midway 
Plaisance,  directly  in  front,  will  also  form  a  part  of  the  Exposition  inclosure,  having 
been  set  apart  for  special  exhibits,  the  foreign  bazaars,  etc. 

The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand,  as  the  establishment  is  to  be  known,  is  of 
pressed  brick,  and  only  four  stories  in  height.  The  building  is  fire-proof  and  of  the 
most  substantial  character  throughout.  There  are  no  less  than  800  feet  of  outside 
exposure,  and  the  courts  have  a  width  of  45  feet.  There  are  325  airy,  well-ventilated, 
and  well-lighted  sleeping  rooms,  and  between  every  two  rooms  is  a  bath-room  and 
toilet-room,  also  thoroughly  ventilated  and  well  lighted.  The  bath-tubs  are  of  porce- 
lain, and  the  greatest  care  has  been  taken  in  connection  with  the  plumbing  and  other 
appointments  to  secure  the  best  sanitary  results.  No  other  hotel  in  Chicago  is  so 
liberally  provided  with  bath-rooms.  There  are  elevators,  both  for  passengers  and 
baggage,  and,  indeed,  every  concomitant  of  a  first-class  city  hotel  has  been  provided. 
The  dining-room  is  1 10  feet  long  and  76  feet  wide,  and  the  parlors,  reception-rooms, 
hotel  office,  bazaar,  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  office,  etc.,  are  also  of  liberal  proportions. 
The  hotel  will  be  conducted  in  the  best  manner,  and  with  all  due  regard  to  the  quiet, 
rest,  and  comfort  of  our  patrons,  for  whose  sole  occupancy  and  use  it  is  intended.  It 
is  to  be  under  the  experienced  management  of  Oscar  G.  Barron,  the  well-known 
resident  proprietor  of  the  Fabyan  House,  White  Mountains,  N.  H. 

Two  stations  on  the  main  line  of  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad  are  within  two  squares 
of  the  hotel,  and  two  lines  of  cable  railway  and  an  elevated  railway  are  also  near  at 
hand,  insuring  ready  means  of  communication  with  the  city.  For  the  accommodation 
of  our  special  trains  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad  Company  will  establish  a  station  on 

16 


their  Washington  Park  Branch,  at  the  corner  of  Madison  avenue  and  Sixty-first  street, 
only  two  squares  from  the  hotel.  This  will  be  known  as  Raymond  &  Whitcomb's 
Exposition  station,  and  will  be  solely  for  the  use  of  our  parties. 

The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  Hotel  is  to  be  the  stopping  place  of  the  Alaska 
party  for  a  full  week  upon  their  return  from  the  transcontinental  tour.  The  home- 
ward journey  will  thus  be  pleasantly  broken  about  midway  between  the  Yellowstone 
National  Park  and  the  Eastern  cities. 

The  time  selected  for  the  trip  is  seasonable,  not  only  for  the  visit  to  the  far  North, 
but  also  for  the  journey  across  the  continent  and  the  tour  through  California.  In 
June,  when  the  party  will  reach  the  Northwest,  long  days  prevail,  and  there  are  really 
only  a  few  hours  of  darkness.  Chicago  is  to  be  visited  during  the  early  days  of  July. 
This  party,  like  all  of  our  other  California  excursions,  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  say, 
will  have  the  superior  advantages  of  a  special  Pullman  vestibuled  train  with  a  dining-car 
while  crossing  the  continent. 

Price  of  Tickets. 

The  price  of  tickets  for  the  excursion,  as  described  at  length  in  the  following  pages, 
will  be  SEVEN  HUNDRED  AND  TWENTY-FIVE  DOLLARS.  This  sum  will  cover  first- 
class  travel  overall  railway  and  steamer  routes  going  and  returning, -with  double 
berths  in  Pullman  sleeping-cars,  and  only  two  persons  in  each  room  on  board  the 
Alaska  steamer;  all  stage  rides  to  and  through  the  Yellowstone  National  Park;  hotel 
accommodations  according  to  the  itinerary,  for  the  period  of  the  regular  tour  (eighty- 
two  days),  with  sojourns  at  Denver,  Coronado  Beach,  Los  Angeles,  Redondo  Beach, 
Santa  Barbara,  San  Francisco,  Monterey,  San  Jose,  Portland,  Tacoma,  Seattle,  the 
Yellowstone  National  Park  (at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  Upper 
Geyser  Basin,  Yellowstone  Lake,  and  Yellowstone  Grand  Cafion),  Minneapolis,  St. 
17 


Paul,  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  in  Chicago  for  one  week,  etc.;  meals  in 
dining-cars,  at  hotels,  dining-stations,  or  on  steamers  en  route;  omnibus  or  carriage 
transfers  from  railway  stations  to  hotels,  and  vice  versa,  wherever  the  same  may  be 
needed  (Denver,  San  Diego,  Los  Angeles,  Santa  Barbara,  San  P'rancisco,  San  Jose, 
Monterey,  Portland,  Tacoma,  Seattle,  Minneapolis,  St.  Paul,  and  Chicago);  special 
carriage  rides  in  Manitou,  Denver,  Pasadena,  Santa  Barbara,  Portland,  Minneapolis, 
and  St.  Paul;  all  expenses  for  transportation,  transfer,  and  care  of  baggage  (to  the 
extent  of  150  pounds  for  each  person,  all  over  that  amount  to  be  liable  to  excess 
charges  at  regular  transportation  rates),  and  the  services  of  conductors  —  in  short, 
EVERY  NEEDED  EXPENSE  of  the  entire  round  trip  from  Boston  back  to  Boston. 

Price  for  children  between  the  ages  of  five  and  twelve  years,  six  hundred  and 
FORTY  DOLLARS.  This  includes  a  separate  sleeping-berth  throughout  the  entire 
journey,  the  same  as  for  an  adult.  Where  no  separate  berth  is  required,  the  price 
for  children  between  the  ages  of  five  and  twelve  years  will  be  five  hundred  and 
eighty-five  dollars. 

Price  of  tickets  for  the  Yosemite  Valley  trip,  thirty-five  dollars,  in  addition  to 
cost  of  ticket  for  the  regular  excursion.     See  page  175. 

Extra  Sleeping-Car  Accommodations. 

The  cost  of  an  extra  double  berth  (giving  an  entire  section  to  one  person),  for  the 
journey  between  Boston  and  San  Bernardino  or  San  Diego,  is  $25;  drawing-room 
for  one  occupant,  $67  ;  for  two  occupants,  $42  —  ^21  for  each  passenger;  for  three 
occupants,  entire  extra  charge,  $17. 

The  charges  for  extra  sleeping-car  accommodations  between  Los  Angeles  (or  Santa 
Barbara)  and  San  Francisco  areas  follows:     Extra  double  berth,  $2.50;  drawing-room 

18 


for  one  occupant,  56.50;  drawing-room  for  two  occupants,  $4,  or  $2  each;  drawing- 
room  for  three  occupants,  entire  extra  charge,  $1.50. 

The  cost  of  an  extra  double  berth  from  San  Francisco  to  Tacoma  or  Seattle  is  $y  ; 
drawing-room  for  one  occupant,  ^18  ;  drawing-room  for  two  occupants,  ^i  i  —  $5*5o  for 
each  passenger ;  drawing-room  for  three  occupants,  entire  extra  charge,  $4. 

For  an  extra  double  berth  from  Tacoma  to  Boston,  $21 ;  drawing-room  for  one  occu- 
pant, $58 ;  drawing-room  for  two  occupants,  $^7  —  $18.50  for  each  passenger  ;  draw- 
ing-room for  three  occupants,  entire  extra  charge,  5i6. 

The  itinerary  in  full  and  a  concise  description  of  the  places  to  be  visited  will  be 
found  in  the  pages  which  follow.  As  the  accommodations  to  be  furnished  on  certain 
parts  of  the  route  are  limited,  the  party  will  necessarily  be  restricted  in  numbers. 
Persons  desirous  of  becoming  members  are  earnestly  requested  to  enroll  their  names 
at  as  early  a  date  as  possible.  Tickets  must  be  taken  on  or  before  Wednesday,  April 
19,  five  days  previous  to  the  date  of  departure. 

W.  RAYMOND. 
I.  A.  WHITCOMB. 


'  Tickets  for  the  excursion,  additional  copies  of  this  circular,  and  all  needed 
information  can  be  obtained  of 

RAYMOND  &  WHITCOMB,  296  Washington  St.  (opposite  Sciiooi  St.),  Boston. 


19 


THE   TOUR   IN   OUTLINE. 


From  Boston  to  the  Missouri    River. 

The  party  will  leave  Boston  from  the  Fitchburg  Railroad  station,  Causeway  street, 
at  4.00  p.  M.,  Monday,  April  24,  in  a  special  Pullman  vestibuled  train  with  a  dining- 
car.  The  early  stage  of  the  journey  is  over  the  popular  Hoosac  Tunnel  route,  and 
•through  a  picturesque  section  of  Northwestern  Massachusetts.  At  a  distance  of  135 
miles  from  Boston  we  enter  the  portals  of  the  famous  Hoosac  Tunnel,  which  pierces 
the  mountains  for  four  and  three-quarters  miles.  This  is  the  longest  railroad  tunnel 
on  the  continent.  Near  Mechanicville,  N.  Y.,  the  Hudson  River  is  crossed,  and  at 
Rotterdam  Junction  the  train  passes  from  the  tracks  of  the  Fitchburg  Railroad  to  those 
of  the  West  Shore  Railroad.  This  latter  line  ascends  the  Mohawk  Valley,  and 
traverses  the  great  State  of  New  York,  passing  through  Utica,  Syracuse,  Rochester, 
Buffalo,  and  other  important  cities.  As  meals  are  to  be  served  in  the  dining-car,  there 
will  be  no  prolonged  stay  at  any  station  during  the  early  part  of  the  ride. 

Passing  through  Buffalo,  our  train  continues  along  the  shores  of  Lake  Erie  and  the 
Niagara  River  to  Niagara  Falls.  We  cross  the  Niagara  River  on  the  great  Suspension 
Bridge,  just  above  the  terrible  Whirlpool  Rapids,  and  about  two  miles  below  the  cat- 
aract. From  this  point  westward  through  Canada  the  route  lies  over  the  Southern 
Division  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  The  St.  Clair  River  is  crossed,  just  below 
Lake  Huron,  by  means  of  the  great  tunnel,  the  longest  work  of  its  kind  in  the  world. 
From  the  Canadian  cutting  to  the  river  edge  is  1,950  feet;  from  the  American  cutting 
to  the  river,  1,800  feet ;  the  distance  across  the  river  is  2,300,  making  the  total  length 
of  the  tunnel  6,050  feet.     The  cost  of  this  great  work  was  about  $3,000,000.     It  not 

20 


only  shortens  the  line  at  this  point,  but  greatly  facilitates  traffic.  The  line  west  of  the 
river  leading  direct  to  Chicago,  331  miles  distant,  is  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk. 
After  traversing  Michigan  and  a  little  corner  of  Indiana,  we  reach  the  boundary  line 
of  Illinois.  At  Blue  Island  Junction  our  train  will  be  transferred  to  the  tracks  of  the 
Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  Railway,  on  which  we  make  our  farther  journey  to 
Kansas  City. 

We  cross  the  northern  part  of  the  great  State  of  Illinois,  reaching  the  Mississippi 
River  at  Rock  Island.  This  route  takes  us  through  Joliet,  Morris,  Ottawa,  La  Salle, 
Peru,  Geneseo,  ^oline,  and  other  populous  cities  and  towns.  Rock  Island  is  a  hand- 
some city,  which  stands  on  the  east  side  of  the  lordly  Mississippi,  while  Davenport, 
la.,  is  on  the  opposite  bank.  Thus  far  we  have  followed  quite  closely  the  line  of 
march  taken  by  General  Winfield  Scott  at  the  time  of  the  Black  Hawk  War.  Where 
the  city  of  Morris  stands  was  fought  a  sanguinary  battle  between  the  Black  Hawk 
Indians  and  the  white  settlers,  the  latter  having  the  assistance  of  the  Pottawattamies. 
The  island,  which  gave  the  city  of  Rock  Island  its  name,  is  traversed  by  the  railway. 
The  island  is  owned  by  the  United  States  Government;  and  the  United  States 
Arsenal,  which  was  erected  here  after  the  destruction  of  the  one  at  Harper's  Ferry, 
Va.,  in  the  war  of  the  Rebellion,  is  near  the  road.  The  grounds  have  been  laid  out  by 
the  government  in  a  very  handsome  manner,  and  serve  as  a  charming  park  for  the 
three  adjacent  cities — Rock  Island,  Davenport,  and  Moline.  Where  the  Kimball 
House  in  Davenport  stands  was  signed  the  treaty  with  the  Indians  which  opened  up 
Western  Illinois,  Eastern  Iowa,  and  Southern  Wisconsin  to  white  settlement.  Black 
Hawk's  village  stood  upon  the  site  of  the  city  of  Rock  Island. 

On  leaving  Davenport  our  train  continues  down  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi 
River  as  far  as  the  flourishing  city  of  Muscatine.     Our  course  is  then  across  the 

21 


southeastern  corner  of  Iowa;  and  at  Lineville  we  enter  the  State  of  Missouri,  trav- 
ersing its  northwestern  section  from  thence  to  Kansas  City,  a  distance  of  139  miles. 
Princeton,  Trenton,  and  Cameron  are  the  chief  towns  on  this  part  of  the  line.  Just 
before  entering  Kansas  City  the  road  crosses  the  Missouri  River  on  a  high  and  sub- 
stantial bridge. 

Kansas  City. 
We  shall  reach  Kansas  City  early  Thursday  morning,  and  spend  several  hours  there. 
This  city  lies  upon  the  boundary  line  of  two  States  —  Missouri  and  Kansas  —  with  its 
chief  population,  public  buildings,  etc.,  in  the  former.  Kansas  City,  Mo.,  contains 
132,416  inhabitants,  and  the  Kansas  division  of  the  city  38,271.  Possessing  peculiar 
advantages  from  being  the  junction  point  of  a  dozen  great  railroads,  Kansas  City  has 
made  rapid  strides  within  two  or  three  years  past.  It  is  the  largest  depot  for  agri. 
cultural  implements  in  the  world,  the  second  great  beef-packing  centre,  and  the  third 
place  of  importance  in  pork-packing. 

The  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad. 
On  leaving  Kansas  City  Thursday  forenoon,  we  enter  upon  the  main  line  of  the 
Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad,  over  which  we  are  to  travel  upwards  of  2,300 
miles  in  different  stages  of  our  western  journey.  With  several  eastern  termini  and  a 
number  of  branches  to  tributary  points,  the  main  line  of  this  road  reaches  out  over 
the  great  State  of  Kansas,  through  a  part  of  Colorado,  and  then  diagonally  across 
the  Territory  of  New  Mexico,  to  connections  with  the  Pacific  Coast  and  Old  Mexico. 
The  Santa  Fe  system  comprises,  in  addition  to  the  main  line  and  its  branches,  the 
Atlantic  &  Pacific,  through  Arizona  and  California,  the  Southern  California  Railway 
Company's  system,  and  other  important  lines. 

22 


Kansas  and  Colorado. 

Our  course  from  Kansas  City  to  the  Colorado  State  line  takes  us  486  miles  within 
the  borders  of  Kansas.  The  State  embraces  in  alternation  broad,  level  Valleys  and 
high,  rolling  prairies,  with  a  gradual  rise  towards  the  Rocky  Mountains.  At  Kansas 
City  we  are  765  feet  above  the  sea,  and  at  the  borders  of  Colorado  3,418.  The  highest 
point  in  the  State  is  the  extreme  northwest,  which  has  an  elevation  of  about  4,000 
feet.  The  eastern  section,  through  which  we  pass  by  daylight,  is  well  watered,  well 
settled,  and  is  devoted  largely  to  corn  and  wheat,  of  which  the  yield  is  enormous. 
The  western  section,  with  the  neighboring  parts  of  Colorado  and  Nebraska,  is  given 
up  largely  to  cattle  grazing. 

Entering  Colorado  a  little  distance  west  of  Coolidge,  we  find  that  the  plains  look 
dry  and  barren,  but  nevertheless  they  furnish  good  grazing.  We  are  at  times  on  what 
were  once  famous  buffalo  grounds.  Antelopes  are  sometimes  seen  near  the  track ; 
and  villages  of  those  queer  little  animals,  the  prairie  dogs,  are  also  common.  Deer, 
like  the  buffalo,  have  been  driven  back  from  the  railroads,  and,  indeed,  the  buffalo 
has  been  wholly  exterminated  from  these  regions. 

Colorado  embraces  103,645  square  miles.  Of  the  United  States,  Texas  (262,292 
square  miles),  California  (158,000  square  miles),  Montana  (143,776  square  miles),  and 
Nevada  (109,740  square  miles),  only  exceed  it  in  area;  and  of  the  Territories  only 
New  Mexico,  Arizona,  and  Alaska.  Upon  first  entering  Colorado,  little  change  will 
be  noticed  in  the  physical  aspect  of  the  landscape,  except  that  the  prairie  gradually 
becomes  more  rolling.  Las  Animas  is  a  thriving  cattle  centre.  At  La  Junta  we 
diverge  from  the  main  line  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad,  for  a  detour 
amid  some  of  the  great  scenic  wonders  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  a  brief  visit  to 
Denver,  the  "  Queen   City  of  the  Plains."     We  proceed  first  to   Pueblo.     Our  stay 

23 


here  will  be  long  enough  for  the  party  to  see  something  of  this  busy  and  progressive 
young  city. 

The  Royal  Gorge. 
Leaving  Pueblo  Friday  noon,  we  shall  proceed  over  the  main  line  of  the  Denver  & 
Rio  Grande  Railroad  westward  in  order  to  visit  the  famous  Royal  Gorge.  Our 
course  lies  through  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Arkansas  River.  At  Florence,  thirty- 
three  miles  from  Pueblo,  we  are  in  the  centre  of  the  Colorado  petroleum  district,  and 
above  this  place  are  extensive  coal  deposits.  Canon  City  (forty-one  miles)  is  a  large 
and  growing  town.  The  State  Penitentiary  is  near  the  railroad  track  on  the  right, 
and  just  beyond  are  several  fine  mineral  springs.  The  canon  begins  just  above  this 
point,  and  for  ten  miles  the  scenery  is  of  the  wildest  and  grandest  description. 
Mountains  of  rock  running  up  almost  perpendicularly  nearly  half  a  mile  in  height, 
and  terminating  in  dizzy  pinnacles,  seem  ready  to  fall  upon  the  adventurous  traveler. 
The  train  winds  along  the  course  of  the  rapid  stream,  and  its  onward  progress  seems 
barred  in  a  hundred  places  by  huge  cliffs.  The  Arkansas,  crowded  to  narrow  limits, 
brawlingly  disputes  the  right  of  way  with  the  iron  steed;  and  new  pictures  of  wild- 
ness  and  grandeur  greet  the  eye  at  every  turn.  Every  feature  of  the  scenery  is  on  a 
stupendous  scale. 

Manitou    Springs. 

Returning  to  Pueblo  after  our  inspection  of  the  Royal  Gorge,  we  shall  continue 
northward  over  the  main  line  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  to  Manitou, 
where  the  train  will  arrive  at  an  early  mornmg  hour  on  Saturday.  The  forenoon  will 
be  passed  in  this  delightful  place  and  there  will  be  a  carriage  ride  to  aid  the  visitors 
in  making  a  sight-seeing  round.     The  principal  springs  and  the  large  bathing  estab- 

24 


lishment  are  in  the  heart  of  the  village.  The  Garden  of  the  Gods  lies  between 
Manitou  Springs  and  Colorado  Springs;  and  Pike's  Peak,  which  has  an  elevation  of 
14,147  feet  (7,850  feet  higher  than  the  town  itself),  rises  in  solitary  beauty  only  a  few 
miles  away.  The  Manitou  &  Pike's  Peak  Railway,  which  climbs  to  the  very  summit 
of  the  mountain,  was  opened  two  years  ago.  The  Manitou  Grand  Caverns  are  within 
a  short  distance  of  the  village,  as  are  also  Rainbow  Falls. 

Denver. 

Returning  to  the  train  Saturday  noon  we  shall  continue  on  still  farther  northward 
to  Denver,  the  capital  of  the  Centennial  State.  Our  headquarters  while  here  will  be 
at  the  new  and  elegant  Brown's  Palace  Hotel.  Omnibus  transfers  both  to  and  from 
the  hotel  are  provided,  the  party  arriving  in  Denver  Saturday  afternoon,  and  remain- 
ing over  Sunday.  There  will  be  a  carriage  ride  immediately  upon  arrival.  Denver 
has  a  population  of  126,186,  according  to  the  recent  census,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
substantial  and  progressive  cities  of  the  West.  Its  streets  are  regularly  and  hand- 
somely laid  out ;  its  public  and  business  edifices  and  its  private  residences  are  elegant 
and  substantial ;  schools,  churches,  and  newspapers  abound ;  and,  in  short,  Denver 
has  every  sign  of  thrift,  enterprise,  wealth,  and  progress. 

The  Raton  Pass.  , 

We  shall  go  on  board  the  train  Sunday  night,  and  leave  Denver  at  an  early  hour 
Monday  morning,  going  southward  over  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  to  Pueblo, 
and  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  to  La  Junta,  and  thence  to  the  Pacific  coast. 

Crossing  the  Raton  Pass  above  Trinidad,  at  an  elevation  of  7,688  feet,  we  enter  the 
Territory  of  New  Mexico.     Fisher's  peak,  a  very  prominent  and  picturesque  elevation 

25 


which  rises  back  of  Trinidad  and  3,628  feet  above  it,  is  9,633  feet  high.  The  railroad, 
six  miles  beyond  Trinidad,  passes  through  the  mining  town  of  Starkville,  and  ten  miles 
above  Starkville  crosses  the  State  line,  just  north  of  a  long  tunnel.  Meanwhile  occa- 
sional glimpses  have  been  had  of  the  gleaming  Spanish  Peaks,  which  are  some  thirty 
miles  northwest  of  Trinidad.  The  railroad  follows  the  general  direction  of  the  old 
"  Sante  Fe  trail,"  and  Dick  Wootton's  famous  old  toll-house  is  seen  on  the  right  just 
north  of  the  summit.  The  descent  on  the  New  Mexico  side  is  quite  steep.  Raton 
is  situated  on  the  plain,  about  1,000  feet  below  the  summit,  and  is  an  important  trade 
centre. 

New  Mexico. 

This  Territory,  which  came  into  the  possession  of  the  United  States  after  the  Mexi- 
can war,  together  with  Arizona,  Colorado,  Utah,  and  Nevada,  comprises  121,201  square 
miles.  Much  of  its  surface  is  an  arid  waste,  but  the  scenery  in  many  parts  of  the 
Territory  is  very  beautiful.  Its  tablelands  are  elevated  from  5,000  to  7,500  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  snow-capped  peaks  rise  to  the  height  of  11,000  feet  and  upwards. 

While  commercial  relations  with  the  East  have  been  established  within  the  present 
century  (though  not  fully  provided  for  until  the  opening  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  & 
Santa  Fe  Railroad),  New  Mexico  and  Arizona,  together  with  the  southern  part  of  Col- 
orado, are  unquestionably  the  oldest-settled  portions  of  our  country.  This  region  was 
the  home  of  an  ancient  civilization  for  centuries  before  the  first  Pilgrim  footfall  was 
heard  on  Plymouth  Rock,  and  before  St.  Augustine  and  Jamestown  were  colonized. 
Th.t  pueblos,  or  villages  of  these  prehistoric  races,  are  scattered  through  the  valleys  of 
Southern  Colorado  and  Northern  New  Mexico,  and  through  a  large  part  of  Arizona. 
There  are  ruins  of  ancient  cities  miles  in  extent;   and  then  there  are  the   curious  cliff 

26 


dwellings  which  abound  in  certain  parts  of  Colorado  and  Arizona.  The  ptieblos  are 
now  inhabited  to  a  large  extent  by  a  strange  aboriginal  race  called  Pueblo  Indians, 
but  the  cliff  and  cave  dwellings  have  probably  been  in  ruins  for  ages.  Soon  after  the 
conquest  of  Mexico  by  Cortes  in  1 519,  the  Spaniards  overran  the  country,  and  it  is 
the  old  South  European  civilization  that  now  permeates  the  life  and  customs  of  New 
Mexico  and  Arizona,  the  American  element  being  a  very  recent  importation.  The 
present  population  of  New  Mexico  is  144,862. 

Near  Raton  are  valuable  coal  mines.  Gold,  silver,  copper,  and  other  ores  are  also 
found  in  this  vicinity.  South  of  Raton  lies  a  rich  grazing  country  dotted  with  ranches. 
Springer,  the  county  seat  of  Colfax,  and  Wagon  Mound  are  the  chief  places  of 
importance  between  Raton  and  the  large  and  flourishing  city  of  Las  Vegas. 

Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs. 

The  celebrated  Hot  Springs  of  Las  Vegas  are  situated  six  miles  from  the  city  of  the 
same  name,  and  we  shall  pay  them  a  visit,. our  special  train  being  taken  thither  over 
the  Hot  Springs  Branch.  The  springs  are  forty  in  number,  and  are  situated  at  the 
base  of  a  foot-hill  that  slopes  down  to  the  Rio  Gallinas.  In  their  thermal  properties 
they  are  divided  into  classes;  one  including  springs  of  a  temperature  from  120  to 
140  degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  the  other  from  75  to  100  degrees.  There  are  thirty  of 
the  former  and  ten  of  the  latter.  Of  the  whole  number  only  about  twenty-five  of  these 
springs  have  been  required  for  the  bath-house  supply,  a  single  spring  furnishing  no 
less  than  30,000  gallons  of  water  daily  at  a  temperature  of  140  degrees.  The  warm 
springs  flow  from  basins,  or  reservoirs,  direct  to  the  bath-houses,  while  the  cooler 
ones  run  into  large  tanks,  and  are  thence  conducted  into  the  bath-houses  to  furnish 
cold  water  as  desired. 

27 


The  first  improvements  were  made  at  the  springs  in  1846,  when  an  adobe  bath-house 
was  erected,  and  a  hospital  established  there  by  the  United  States  Army.  The  first 
hotel  was  erected  in  1879,  ^^^  i^  ^^^^^  standing.  The  popularity  of  the  resort  has 
made  greater  demands  than  the  old  house  was  intended  to  supply,  and  the  large  and 
elegant  Montezuma  was  erected.  This  establishment  is  situated  on  one  of  the  heights 
above  the  river,  at  an  elevation  of  about  6,900  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

Westward  from  Las  Vegas. 

Returning  to  Las  Vegas,  and  then  going  westward,  we  traverse  an  undulating  and 
broken  country.  Some  twenty  miles  from  Las  Vegas  is  a  picturesque  hill  known  as 
Starvation  Mountain.  This  is  a  flat-topped,  rocky  eminence,  with  almost  perpen- 
dicular sides,  where,  tradition  says,  the  Indians  surrounded  140  Mexicans,  who  finally 
starved  to  death.     Several  crosses  have  been  erected  on  the  summit. 

Nearly  fifty  miles  southwest  of  Las  Vegas,  in  the  Pecos  Valley,  are  the  ruins  of  the 
old  Pecos  Church,  which  was  established 'by  the  Spaniards  soon  after  1529.  The 
railroad  runs  within  about  a  mile  of  the  spot.  A  short  distance  from  the  church  are 
the  ruins  of  a  great  city  which  far  antedated  that  edifice.  The  faint  traces  of  walls, 
now  gradually  being  reduced  to  dust,  are  all  that  remain.  From  the  Pecos  River 
there  is  an  ascent  by  a  steep  grade  to  the  summit  of  Glorieta  Pass,  which  has  an 
elevation  of  7,537  feet. 

Santa    Fe. 

Santa  Fe,  the  capital  of  New  Mexico,  will  be  reached  Monday  evening  by  a  branch 
road  from  Lamy,  a  distance  of  eighteen  miles,  and  there  will  be  a  halt  here  until 
noon  of  the  ensuing  day. 


San  Francisco  street  is  the  chief  business  thoroughfare  of  the  ancient  capital.  The 
old  buildings  are  constructed  of  adobe^  and  in  the  Mexican  style.  The  burro^  a  dimin- 
utive donkey,  is  made  the  chief  carrier  of  burdens ;  and  many  of  these  patient,  hard- 
working little  animals  are  driven  into  town  with  packs  of  wood  much  larger  than 
themselves.  In  the  centre  of  the  city  is  the  Plaza,  or  public  square,  a  well-ordered 
little  park,  bordered  by  business  houses  on  three  sides  and  by  the  old  adobe  palace 
on  the  fourth  or  north  side.  In  the  inclosure  is  a  monument  erected  in  honor  of  the 
soldiers  who  fell  at  Glorieta  and  Valverde.  The  old  palace  has  been  the  seat  of 
government  for  at  least  two  and  a  half  centuries.  It  was  occupied  by  a  long  line  of 
Spanish  governors,  and,  under  United  States  rule,  the  ancient  edifice  has  still  been 
used  as  the  governor's  residence.  The  interesting  collections  of  the  New  Mexican 
Historical  Society  have  been  placed  in  this  edifice.  In  front  of  the  Exposition 
Building,  near  the  United  States  Military  Post,  is  a  monument  erected  in^onorof 
Kit  Carson.  Old  Fort  Marcy,  on  the  hill  above  the  hotel,  was  established  by  General 
Kearney  in  1846.     Upon  the  same  site  De  Vargas  encamped  in  1693. 

The  old  San  Miguel  Church,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  is  supposed  to  be  the 
oideSt  place  of  worship  on  American  soil,  having  a  recorded  history  as  far  back  as 
1580  Near  this  edifice  is  St.  Michael's  College  for  boys,  erected  a  few  years  ago, 
from  the  tower  of  which  a  very  fine  view  of  the  city  and  surrounding  country  is  com- 
manded. Near  the  ancient  church  is  an  old  house,  the  walls  of  which  are  supposed 
to  have  great  antiquity.  They  are  thought  to  be  the  remains  of  a  prehistoric  edifice. 
Just  across  the  creek,  returning,  are  the  spacious  and  highly  improved  grounds  of  the 
*  Academy  of  Our  Lady  of  Light,"  conducted  by  the  Sisters  of  Loretto.  Directly  in 
the  rear  of  these  grounds  are  the  residence  and  noted  gardens  of  Archbishop  Lamy. 
North,  a  short  distance,  is   the  Cathedral   of   Santa  Fe,  which   has  recently  been 

29 


rebuilt.  East  of  the  Cathedral  is  located  the  St.  Vincent  asylum,  or  hospital,  con- 
ducted by  the  Sisters  of  Charity.  Another  old  church,  that  of  Guadalupe,  was,  a 
few  years  ago,  renovated  and  modernized  for  the  use  of  the  English-speaking  Roman 
Catholics.    There  are  also  several  Protestant  places  of  worship. 

The  Ramona  School,  situated  in  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  is  a  noble  institution  for 
the  education  of  Indian  youth,  under  the  direction  of  Rev.  H.  O.  Ladd. 
From  Santa  Fe  Southvsrard. 

We  shal Heave  Santa  Fe  Tuesday  noon,  proceeding  first  to  Lamy,  where  we  again 
join  the  main  line  of  railway.  Near  Wallace,  thirty-one  miles  from  Lamy,  we  reach 
the  banks  of  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte,  the  chief  artery  of  the  water  system  of  the 
Territory.  At  this  point  is  th.Q  pueblo  of  Santo  Domingo,  which  is  situated  upon  the 
bank  of  the  river,  within  plain  sight  from  the  cars.  A  little  farther  on  is  the  pueblo 
of  San  Felipe.  The  former  tribe  numbers  nearly  i,ooo  and  the  latter  between  500 
and  600.  The  station  at  Wallace  is  upon  the  reservation  of  the  Santo  Domingo  tribe. 
The ///<?^/^  is  two  miles  distant.  Three  other  \nd^2sv  pueblos  will  be  passed  in  the 
course  of  the  journey,  viz. :  Sandia,  twenty-five  miles  beyond  Wallace  ;  Isleta,  about 
twelve  miles  beyond  Albuquerque,  and  Laguna,  on  the  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Rail- 
road, sixty-six  miles  from  Albuquerque.  Bernalillo,  twenty  miles  beyond  Wallace 
and  sixteen  miles  north  of  Albuquerque,  is  an  old  Mexican  town  that  has  seen  but 
little  change  since  the  railroad  invaded  its  precincts. 

The  approach  to  Albuquerque  is  picturesque,  the  Sandia  Mountains,  which  lie  at  no 
great  distance  northeast,  adding  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  Albuquerque  was  a 
populous  Mexican  town  long  before  the  railroad  came,  having  been  christened  in  honor 
of  the  Duke  of  Albuquerque  in  the  days  of  Spanish  rule.  The  busy,  bustling  city  of 
today  has  sprung  into  existence  within  the  past  five  years  beside  the  railroad,  and  is  a 

30 


typical  American  town ;  while  the  old  town,  three  miles  distant,  is  almost  distinctly- 
Mexican.  The  headquarters  of  the  operating  department  of  the  Atlantic  &  Pacific 
Railroad  are  at  Albuquerque,  although  the  actual  junction  of  that  road  with  the 
Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad  is  thirteen  miles  south. 

Leaving  Albuquerque  by  the  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Railroad,  one  of  the  great  exten- 
sions of  the  "  Santa  Fe  "  system,  over  which  we  travel  747  miles,  we  shall  cross  the 
continental  divide,  130  miles  west  of  that  city  and  2,291  feet  above  it,  the  greatest 
elevation  being  7,297  feet.  There  is  little  at  the  summit  to  indicate  that  one  is  at  the 
top  of  a  mountain  range.     At  Gallup  are  extensive  coal  mines. 

Arizona. 

The  line  between  New  Mexico  and  Arizona  is  crossed  between  Manuelito  and  Allan- 
town.  The  road  here  runs  in  proximity  to  some  curiously  shaped  buttes,  while  pecu- 
liar red  cliffs  are  seen  north  of  the  road.  A  great  mass  of  rock,  with  cathedral-like 
pinnacles,  seen  near  Wingate,  is  known  as  the  Navajo  Church. 

Arizona  comprises  113,916  square  miles,  and  is  the  next  largest  Territory  to  New 
Mexico.  It  is  three  times  the  size  of  the  great  State  of  New  York,  and,  like  Cali- 
fornia, possesses  within  its  wide  domain  nearly  every  climate.  There  is  much  desert 
and  waste  land,  but  some  sections  are  very  productive.  The  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Rail- 
road passes  through  a  large  part  of  the  best  lands  in  the  Territory,  although  it  also 
crosses  great  desert  sections,  where  water  is  had  only  by  running  water-trains  from  the 
most  convenient  springs.  There  are  many  thousands  of  square  miles  of  good  grazing 
lands,  and  the  raising  of  cattle,  sheep,  and  horses  is  an  important  and  growing  industry* 
There  are  great  tracts  of  pine  timber,  which  is  said  to  be  equal  to  any  found  in  the 
East.    The  mining  interests  of  this  region   have  been  extensive  for  more  than  300 

31 


years.  Gold,  silver,  and  copper  are  found  in  various  sections  of  the  Territory.  In 
the  northern  part  of  Arizona,  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  railroad,  is  that 
great  wonder  of  the  world  —  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado. 

The  famous  petrified  forests  of  Arizona  are  situated' twenty-six  miles  from  Holbrook 
and  some  ten  miles  from  the  railroad.  Holbrook  is  also  the  point  of  departure  for  the 
Moqui  Indian  towns,  from  ninety  to  one  hundred  miles  distant. 

The  CafXon  Diablo  and  the  San  Francisco  Mountains. 

The  Rio  Puerco,  a  small  stream  along  which  we  have  journeyed  for  some  distance 
before  reaching  Holbrook,  joins  the  Little  Colorado  near  that  place,  and  the  road 
crosses  the  latter  thirty-two  miles  farther  on,  near  the  lively  little  town  of  Winslow. 
Twenty-six  miles  beyond  Winslow  the  road  crosses  the  Canon  Diablo,  an  immense, 
zigzag,  yawning  chasm  in  the  white  and  yellow  magnesian  limestone.  The  bridge  is 
541  feet  long  and  222^^  feet  in  height,  or  higher  than  Bunker  Hill  Monument.  It  is 
an  iron  structure,  a  model  in  its  way,  and  cost  ^250,000. 

Long  before  this  the  magnificent  San  Francisco  Mountains,  a  group  of  lofty,  snow- 
clad  peaks  which  rise  a  few  miles  north  of  the  railroad  at  Flagstaff,  have  begun  to 
attract  attention.  There  are  three  sharp  peaks  of  purest  white,  supported  by  dark 
shoulders  of  cedar  and  pinon-covered  heights.  The  main  peaks  are  Humphrey,  Agas- 
siz,  and  Humboldt.  Mount  Humphrey  is  12,815  ^^^^  high,  and  Mount  Agassiz  is  only 
300  feet  lower.  The  elevation  of  Flagstaff  is  6,935  ^^^t,  and  the  Arizona  divide  (a  spur 
of  the  San  Francisco  Mountains),  a  dozen  miles  beyond,  is  between  200  and  300  feet 
higher.  Near  Flagstaff  the  railroad  enters  the  timber  region,  and  the  country  assumes 
a  beautiful  park-like  appearance.  Extensive  lumber  mills  are  situated  at  Flagstaff. 
The  Marble  Cafion,  the  deepest  portion  of  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado  —  6,549 

32 


feet  in  depth  —  is  sixty-five  miles  distant  from  this  station,  and  north  of  the  San  Fran- 
cisco Mountains. 

Beyond  the  San  Francisco  Mountains  there  are  several  detached  peaks  which 
appear  quite  prominent  as  seen  from  the  railroad.  Not  far  from  Ash  Fork  the  rail- 
road winds  through  a  rocky  pass  known  as  Johnson's  Canon.  At  Peach  Springs  we 
are  nearer  the  Grand  Cafion  of  the  Colorado  than  we  were  at  Flagstaff,  the  distance 
being  only  twenty-three  miles. 

Entering  California. 

The  Needles,  situated  on  the  California  side  of  the  Colorado  River, —  here  a  broad 
and  rapid  stream  which  is  crossed  by  means  of  a  long  bridge, —  is  where  we  enter 
California.  There  is  nothing  but  a  sandy  waste  for  a  long  distance  on  each  side  of 
the  river,  but  within  view  at  the  north  are  some  picturesque  mountains  which  give  to 
the  station  its  name.  The  Needles  is  a  place  of  considerable  importance,  and  the 
Mojave  Indians  have  a  reservation  near  at  hand.  Proceeding  westward  the  road 
crosses  the  great  Mojave  Desert  of  California,  an  elevated  tract  whereon  little  else 
than  the  yucca  palm  is  seen  growing.  At  Goff's,  thirty-two  miles  west  of  The 
Needles,  we  are  at  an  elevation  of  2,580  feet,  more  than  2,100  feet  above  the  Colorado 
River.  There  are  numerous  lava  hills  scattered  about  the  eastern  section  of  the 
desert. 

The  Southern  California  Railway  Lines. 

At  Barstow  Thursday  morning  we  diverge  from  the  main  line  of  the  Atlantic  & 
Pacific  Railroad,  which  extends  on  to  Mojave,  and  continue  southward  over  the 
Southern  California  Railway  Company's  lines,  in  order  to  make  a  detour  through 
Southern   California.     The  Southern  California  Railway  Company's  lines  cover  the 

33 


extensive  system  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka&  Santa  Fe  Railroad  in  Southern  California, 
or,  rather,  all  of  it  that  is  not  included  by  the  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Railroad.  This 
latter  line  of  railway  extends  across  Arizona  and  California,  uniting  with  the  Southern 
Pacific^  Company's  road  at  Mojave.  The  Southern  California  lines  reach  Pasadena, 
Los  Angeles,  San  Diego,  Redlands,  Riverside,  Redondo  Beach,  and  nearly  all  the 
important  points  in  that  section  of  the  State. 

Emerging  from  the  Mojave  Desert  and  following  up  for  a  time  the  Mojave  River, 
which  farther  north  disappears  altogether  in  a  desert  *'sink,"  our  train  climbs  the 
slopes  of  the  San  Bernardino  range  towards  the  Cajon  Pass,  vi^hich  pierces  the  moun- 
tain wall  not  far  east  of  the  snow-capped  peak  known  as  "Old  Baldy."  While 
approaching  the  pass,  and  while  descending  the  steep  grades  on  the  other  side,  the 
traveler  enjoys  a  succession  of  magnificent  views.  The  summit  of  the  pass  is  3,819 
feet  above  the  sea,  or  1,714  feet  above  Barstow. 

Southern  California. 

From  the  scene  of  sandy  waste  and  desolation  presented  by  the  Mojave  Desert,  we 
emerge  into  the  garden  of  California,  a  region  where  the  flowers  and  fruits  of  the 
semi-tropics  grow  in  profusion.  The  transition  is  a  welcome  one.  Luxuriant  orange 
groves  and  vineyards  take  the  place  of  desert  sands.  The  air  becomes  fragrant  with 
the  sweet  breath  of  orange  blossoms.  Snow-clad  peaks  rise  behind  us,  and  in  front 
is  spread  out  the  broad  and  fruitful  valley  in  which  San  Bernardino,  Redlands,  Colton, 
Riverside,  and  dozens  of  other  towns  are  situated.  We  have  meanwhile  crossed  a 
portion  of  San  Bernardino  county,  which,  with  its  23,472  square  miles  of  area,  is 
larger   than   four   of    the   New   England    States  —  Vermont,   Massachusetts,   Rhode 

34 


Island,  and  Connecticut  combined.  Besides  oranges  and  grapes,  which  constitute  the 
chief  products  of  Southern  California,  lemons,  limes,  olives,  citrons,  figs,  pomegran- 
ates, almonds,  English  walnuts,  and  other  fruits  and  nuts,  grow  here,  as  do  also  the 
cactus,  palm,  pepper  tree,  acacia,  and  eucalyptus.  On  descending  from  the  moun- 
tains we  pass  through  the  old  town  of  San  Bernardino.  On  a  mountain-side  at  the 
left,  as  we  approach  this  city,  may  be  seen  the  famous  Indian  arrow-head,  a  huge  dis- 
coloration of  the  slopes  over  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long. 

Riverside. 

We  shall  first  visit  Riverside,  nine  miles  from  San  Bernardino,  and  spend  half  a  day 
there.  This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  towns  in  California.  It  is  devoted  largely 
to  the  culture  of  the  orange,  and  immense  quantities  of  the  fruit  are  annually  shipped 
East.  wSome  of  the  finest  orange  groves' in  the  country  are  in  or  near  Riverside.  The 
residents,  largely  Eastern  people,  have  picturesque  homes,  surrounded  by  gardens  and 
shrubbery.  Magnolia  avenue  is  a  magnificent  double  driveway  divided  by  a  row  of 
pepper  trees,  and  lined  for  many  miles  with  handsome  villas  and  lovely  gardens. 

San  Diego  and  the  Hotel  del  Coronado. 

On  leaving  Riverside  we  shall  proceed  southward  over  the  Southern  California 
line  to  San  Diego.  On  our  arrival  at  San  Diego,  Friday  morning,  May  5,  we  shall 
take  omnibuses  for  the  famous  Hotel  del  Coronado,  Coronado  Beach,  crossing  the 
bay  l)y  ferry. 

San  Diego  county,  with  its  14,969  square  miles,  a  larger  area  than  any  of  the  New 
England  States  except  Maine,  and  nearly  twice  the  size  of  Massachusetts,  is  the 
southernmost  county  of  California,   and  aajoins  Mexico.      The  city  of  San  Diego, 

35 


situated  upon  its  southern  sea-coast  and  only  a  few  miles  from  the  national  boundary 
line,  is  the  oldest  of  the  California  mission  towns,  the  first  of  the  mission  churches 
having  been  planted  there  in  1769;  but  it  owes  its  present  importance  to  recent  growth. 
The  development  of  this  section  has  followed  the  extension  of  the  Santa  Fe  system 
into  this  region.  The  number  of  inhabitants  is  about  16,000.  In  1880  the  accredited 
population  was  2,637.  With  a  remarkably  fine  climate,  unsurpassed  on  the  whole 
globe  for  equability  and  salubrity,  San  Diego  is  naturally  a  favorite  place  of  resort  for 
Eastern  visitors.  The  fruits  of  the  temperate  zone  and  the  tropics  here  grow  side  by 
side  ;  and  the  yield,  both  of  vegetables  and  fruits,  is  immense. 

The  city  of  San  Diego  lies  on  the  eastern  shore  of  San  Diego  Bay.  Between  the 
bay  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  there  is  a  narrow  tongue  of  land  which  has  been  converted 
into  a  magnificent  seaside  resort  by  a  wealthy  corporation  called  the  Coronado  Beach 
Company.  With  a  matchless  ocean  beach  on  one  side,  stretching  away  for  miles,  and 
a  quiet  bay  on  the  other,  a  charming  town  has  arisen.  There  are  broad  avenues,  parks, 
and  walks,  and  20,000  trees  have  been  planted.  The  most  important  embellishment 
of  all  is  the  Hotel  del  Coronado,  an  immense  establishment,  which  was  thrown  open 
to  the  public  Feb.  15,  1888.  With  a  frontage  of  1,300  feet,  and  built  in  the  form  of  a 
parallelogram  around  a  grand  open  court  250  by  150  feet,  the  hotel  covers  seven  and 
a  half  acres.  The  structure  ranges  from  three  to  five  stories  in  height,  and  there  are 
750  rooms,  including  many  spacious  public  apartments.  The  dining-room  —  an 
especially  handsome  apartment  —  has  a  height  of  thirty-three  feet,  an  area  of  10,000 
feet  unbroken  by  either  post  or  pillar,  and  will  seat  1,000  persons.  The  theatre  and 
ball-room  is  a  lofty  domed  apartment  with  a  surface  of  11,000  feet.  The  rotunda,  con- 
taining the  office,  covers  3,000  feet.  The  breakfast-room,  which  may  be  connected 
with  the  great  dining-room,  is  nearly  half  as  large,  covering  4,800  feet.     In  addition  to 

36 


these  apartments  there  is  a  restaurant  covering  2,500  feet,  and  a  number  of  private 
dining-rooms.  An  observatory  150  feet  high,  a  cistern  capable  of  holding  500,000  gal- 
lons of  water,  an  immense  ice-plant  and  cold  storage,  a  powerful  electric  light  plant, 
thirty  billiard  tables,  and  four  85-foot  bowling  alleys  are  among  the  other  appointments. 
It  is  necessary  to  use  large  figures  in  describing  the  fittings  and  appointments  of  this 
immense  establishment,  which  is  claimed  to  be  unrivaled  either  in  the  United  States 
or  Europe  in  point  of  size.  The  ice  machine  has  a  capacity  of  twelve  tons  a  day,  or 
the  equivalent  of  that  in  cold  storage,  and  as  the  ice  is  formed  from  distilled  Coronado 
water,  it  is  purer  than  natural  ice.  The  building  is  lighted  by  2,500  incandescent 
electric  lamps,  besides  a  great  number  of  arc  lights  about  the  grounds.  All  the  elec- 
tric wires  and  the  pipes  for  heating  the  building,  etc.,  are  carried  from  the  engine  house 
through  a  tunnel  350  feet  long,  nine  feet  high,  and  eight  feet  wide.  The  water  used 
in  the  hotel  is  from  the  Coronado  Springs  and  is  a  natural  mineral  water,  with 
acknowledged  medical  properties. 

The  Hotel  del  Coronado  is  an  "  all  the  year  round  "  resort,  and  has  speedily  attained 
great  popularity  on  account  of  its  solid  merits.  It  is  under  the  management  and  direct 
supervision  of  the  energetic  president  of  the  Coronado  Beach  Company,  Mr.  E.  S. 
Babcock. 

From  San  Diego  to  Los  Angeles. 

We  shall  leave  Coronado  Beach  and  San  Diego  Monday  morning,  and  retrace  our 
way  in  daylight  over  a  charming  section  of  country  previously  traversed  by  night. 
For  a  considerable  distance  we  are  upon  the  shore  of  the  ocean,  along  which  are 
some  charming  views.  On  leaving  the  sea,  we  enter  a  region  of  orange  orchards  and 
vineyards.  Near  San  Juan  is  the  old  Mission  of  San  Juan  Capistrano,  in  ruins, 
having  been  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  soon  after  its  erection  in  1776.     It  is  visible 


from  the  train.     On  arrival  in  Los  Angeles,  the  next  stopping-place,  The  Westminster 
and  The  Hollenbeck  will  be  made  the  headquarters  of  the  party. 

Los  Angeles. 

Los  Angeles,  the  metropolis  of  Southern  California,  or  La  Puebla  de  la  Reina  de  los 
Angeles  (literally  the  town  of  the  Queen  of  the  Angels,  to  give  its  old  Spanish  title  in 
full),  is. situated  in  the  great  southern  fruit  belt,  482  miles  south  of  San  Francisco  by 
railway.  The  town  was  founded  in  1781.  It  had  already  attained  considerable  size 
at  the  time  of  the  American  conquest,  although  its  chief  increase  in  population, 
business  importance,  and  wealth  has  been  the  result  of  recent  growth.  From  a  little 
collection  of  adobe  huts  it  has  become  a  handsome  city.  With  less  than  12,000 
inhabitants  in  1880,  it  had  in  1890  increased  in  population  to  50,394.  The  city  has 
eighty  miles  of  graded  streets,  and  is  very  brilliantly  lighted  with  electricity.  The 
street-car  system  includes  cable  lines,  electric  railways,  and  horse-car  lines.  The  city 
is  spread  over  a  large  area,  and  extends  far  out  over  a  level  country  beautifully 
shaded.  The  old  section  of  the  town  was  irregularly  built  of  adobe;  but  the  march 
of  improvement  has  left  but  few  relics  of  early  Los  Angeles,  except  the  original 
church,  which  stands  upon  Main  street,  in  the  midst  of  all  the  life  and  bustle  of  the 
rejuvenated  city  —  a  quaint  reminder  of  other  days.  The  public  buildings  are 
spacious  and  elegant,  and  the  business  blocks  in  many  instances  imposing.  Among 
the  handsome  edifices  recently  built  are  a  Court  House,  which  cost  $410,000;  the 
Young  Men's  Christian  Association  Building,  costing  $150,000;  the  Burbank  The- 
atre, costing  $200,000;  City  Hall,  costing  $208,000;  a  government  building,  costing 
$250,000;  and  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  new  station,  on  Alameda  street,  foot  of 
Fifth  street,  costing  $250,000.     A  ride  about  the  city  in  any  direction  cannot  fail  to 

38 


delight  the  stranger.     There  are  substantial  evidences  of  wealth  and  prosperity  on 
every  hand. 

Pasadena. 

Leaving  Los  Angeles  Wednesday  morning  the  party  will  first  make  an  excursion  to 
include  Pasadena  and  its  beautiful  surroundings.  Pasadena,  one  of  the  most  favored 
winter  retreats  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  is  charmingly  situated  nine  miles  from  Los 
Angeles.  The  Raymond  at  East  Pasadena,  of  which  Mr.  Walter  Raymond,  of  Ray- 
mond &  Whitcomb,  is  the  proprietor,  is  a  mile  nearer.  Its  situation  in  the  higher  part 
of  the  valley,  over  500  feet  above  Los  Angeles  and  nearly  1,000  feet  above  the  sea, 
with  the  noble  range  of  the  Sierra  Madre  towering  above  it  at  no  great  distance  in  the 
north,  and  great  stretches  of  orange  orchards  and  vineyards  adorning  the  gently  rolling 
surface  of  the  country  south  and  east,  gives  it  every  advantage  of  picturesqueness, 
while  no  place  on  the  entire  Pacific  Coast  can  surpass  it  for  healthf ulness.  For  miles 
around  the  fair  surface  of  the  valley  and  the  mountain  benches  are  dotted  with  hand- 
some villas,  each  with  its  individual  surrounding  of  garden  and  orchard.  Although  a 
place  of  gardens,  vineyards,  and  groves,  the  city  has  a  population  of  over  10,000,  and 
is  provided  with  all  modern  improvements.  Carriages  will  be  in  waiting  at  the  station 
on  our  arrival,  and  an  extended  ride  will  be  taken  through  the  handsome  city  and 
its  environs.  Raymond  Hill,  which  commands  a  magnificent  view,  Raymond  avenue, 
Orange  Grove  avenue,  Colorado  street,  Lamanda  Park,  and  other  points  in  and  about 
Pasadena  will  be  visited. 

Redondo  Beach. 

Returning  from  Pasadena  the  party  will  proceed  at  once  by  the  Southern  California 
Railway  directly  through  Los  Angeles  to  the  Redondo  Beach  Hotel  at  Redondo 
Beach.     The  ride  thither  is  through  a  pleasant  region  devoted  largely  to  vineyards 

39 


and  orange  orchards.  The  beach  is  a  charming  spot,  and  the  recent  erection  of  an 
elegant  hotel  has  enhanced  its  attractiveness.  It  is  one  of  the  most  popular  of 
Southern  California's  shore  resorts.  The  afternoon  and  night  will  be  pleasantly 
passed  there. 

We  shall  leave  Redondo  Beach  Thursday  morning,  May  ii,  return  to  Los  Angeles, 
and  thence  go  at  once  northward  and  westward  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's 
line  to  Santa  Barbara.  Twenty-six  miles  north  of  Los  Angeles,  and  1,200  feet  above 
it,  is  the  San  Fernando  Tunnel.  From  Saugus  we  descend  through  the  picturesque 
Santa  Clara  Valley.  At  Camulos  is  the  ranch  where  Ramona,  the  heroine  of  Helen 
Hunt  Jackson's  touching  story,  lived.  From  San  Buenaventura  to  Santa  Barbara  the 
railroad  follows  the  seashore,  and  many  charming  views  are  had,  with  the  broad  Pacific 
Ocean  on  one  side  and  the  mountains  and  picturesque  valleys  on  the  other. 

Santa  Barbara. 
This  beautiful  city  by  the  sea  is  one  of  the  best  known  of  all  the  Southern  Pacific 
resorts.  It  is  delightfully  situated  upon  a  gentle  slope,  with  the  blue  waters  of  the 
Pacific  on  one  side  and  the  purple  peaks  of  the  Santa  Inez  Mountains,  from  3,500  to 
4,000  feet  high,  on  the  other.  Santa  Barbara  has  a  population  of  about  6,000  people, 
whose  homes  are  embowered  in  gardens  of  roses,  and  shaded  by  the  eucalyptus,  palm, 
pepper,  and  magnolia.  The  view  oceanward  embraces  the  hill-studded  islands  of 
Santa  Cruz,  Santa  Rosa,  San  Miguel,  and  Anacapa.  We  shall  make  The  Arlington 
and  The  San  Marcos  our  headquarters  during  our  stay.  The  surroundings  of  Santa 
Barbara  are  very  romantic,  and  a  carriage  ride  to  some  of  the  various  points  of  interest 
will  be  a  feature  of  our  visit.  State  street,  upon  which  The  Arlington  is  situated,  has 
been  paved  with  concrete,  and  is  now  one  of  the  finest  avenues  in  America.    The  old 

40 


Franciscan  Mission,  established  in  1782,  the  best  preserved  of  all  the  old  California 
churches,  stands  upon  an  elevated  slope  back  of  the  town,  forming  a  picturesque 
object  in  the  outlook  towards  the  rugged  mountains.  Montecito  is  a  lovely  suburb  of 
Santa  Barbara,  and  there  are  some  hot  springs  on  the  heights  beyond. 

Parties  to  visit  the  Yosemite  Valley  will  be  made  up  during  the  stay  in  Santa  Bar- 
bara, and  will  leave  that  city  on  different  days.  Those  who  proceed  directly  through 
to  San  Francisco  will  go  with  the  last  party,  May  19.  The  dates  of  departure  of  the 
Yosemite  excursionists  will  be  made,  as  far  as  possible,  to  meet  individual  preferences. 
For  particulars  about  the  Yosemite  trip  see  page  175. 

From  Santa  Barbara  to  San  Francisco. 

The  Southern  Pacific  Company's  Santa  Barbara  branch  brings  us  back  to  Saugus, 
where  we  resume  our  northward  journey  over  the  main  line.  During  the  early  part  of 
the  trip  we  traverse  the  western  section  of  the  Mojave  Desert,  through  the  eastern 
part  of  which  we  journeyed  on  first  entering  California.  The  yucca  palms  are  again 
found  in  great  abundance,  and  relieve  the  desert  expanse  of  its  otherwise  barren 
aspect.     The  fibre  is  used  in  the  manufacture  of  paper. 

About  120  miles  north  of  Los  Angeles  is  the  famous  Tehachapi  Pass.  The  railroad 
here  crosses  a  group  of  mountains  belonging  to  the  terminating  southwestern  spur  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  at  an  elevation  of  3,964  feet  above  the  sea.  It  was  not  so  much 
the  elevation  as  the  broken  country  that  presented  difiiculties  in  the  way  of  engineer- 
ing ;  and  it  was  only  by  a  series  of  bewildering  curves,  in  one  of  which  the  road 
actually  crosses  its  own  line,  that  a  practicable  route  was  found  across  the  mountains. 
The  **  loop  "  is  3,795  feet  in  length,  and  the  lower  track  is  78  feet  beneath  the  upper 
one.     The  actual  point  of  crossing  is  at  the  ninth  of  the  seventeen  tunnels  that  are 

41 


encountered  between  the  summit  and  Caliente.  North  of  these  hills  are  a  series  of 
broad  plains  and  wide  valleys.  The  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin  is  followed  until  its 
union  with  the  Sacramento,  and  the  road  then  courses  along  the  borders  of  the  straits 
and  bays  until  it  reaches  Oakland.  Skirting  the  shores  of  San  Pablo  Bay  and  rounding 
the  point  at  San  Pablo  station,  we  look  across  the  bay  and  harbor  of  San  Francisco, 
and  out  through  the  portals  of  the  Golden  Gate  toward  the  board  Pacific.  As  the  train 
sweeps  on  through  the  outskirts  of  Oakland,  the  traveler  gains  only  a  hint  of  the 
beauty  of  the  place.  Leaving  Oakland  behind  us,  we  speed  on  to  the  long  pier,  from 
whence  a  huge  ferry-boat  conveys  us  to  the  San  Francisco  shore. 

San  Francisco. 

The  metropolis  of  the  Pacific  Coast  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  cities  in  America, 
and  is  becoming  more  beautiful  and  attractive  year  by  year.  It  is  naturally  cosmopol- 
itan in  character,  and  the  visitor  can  take  a  foreign  jaunt  in  miniature  by  walking 
through  certain  sections  of  the  town.  In  some  particulars,  and  notably  in  its  street- 
car service,  which  consists  largely  of  *'  cable  roads,"  it  is  in  advance  of  the  older  cities 
of  the  country.  With  one  of  the  finest  harbors  on  the  globe,  and  occupying  an  impor- 
tant position  in  connection  with  the  world's  commerce,  its  shipping  interests  are  of 
vast  proportions.  The  growth  of  the  city  has  been  very  rapid,  especially  since  the 
opening  of  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad  in  1869.  The  population  of  the  city,  accord- 
ing to  the  late  census,  is  297,990,  an  increase  of  64,031  in  ten  years.  San  Francisco  is 
now  eighth  in  size  in  the  list  of  American  cities,  having  left  Cincinnati  behind  in  the 
last  decade. 

The  chief  cable-car  lines  are  on  Market  street  and  on  thoroughfares  radiating  there- 
from, viz. :     Sutter,  Post,  Geary,  Powell,  McAllister,  Hayes,  Haight,  Valencia,  and 

42 


Castro  streets.  There  are  alsb  lines  on  Howard,  California,  Clay,  Jackson,  Union, 
Larkin,  and  other  streets.  The  "  dummy "  street  lines  are  the  Geary,  California, 
Jackson,  and  Union  street  extensions,  and  the  Park  &  Ocean  road.  There  are,  in 
addition,  nearly  a  score  of  lines  of  horse  railways  running  within  the  city. 

The  City  Ilall,  which  has  cost  ^4,000,000,  is  between  Market,  McAllister,  and 
Larkin  streets,  opposite  Eighth  street;  the  Mechanics'  Pavilion,  on  Market  street 
near  the  City  Hall;  the  branch  United  States  Mint,  at  the  southwest  corner  of 
Mission  and  Fifth  streets,  may  be  visited  from  9  to  1 1  A.  M. ;  the  Post  Office  and 
Custom  House  are  at  the  corner  of  Washington  and  Battery  streets,  and  the  chief 
branch  office  (Station  D)  is  at  the  foot  of  Market  street ;  the  Merchants'  Exchange 
Building,  on  California  street;  the  San  Francisco  Stock  Exchange,  No.  327  Pine 
street;  the  old  City  Hall,  corner  Kearney  and  Washington  streets;  the  rooms  of 
the  California  Pioneers,  on  Fourth  street,  near  Market  street ;  Odd  Fellows'  Hall, 
corner  Market  and  Seventh  streets ;  Masonic  Temple,  corner  Post  and  Montgomery 
streets;  the  new  Union  Club  Building,  corner  of  Union  square  and  Stockton  street; 
the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  rooms,  232  Sutter  street ;  San  Francisco  Art 
Association,  430  Pine  street;  Mineralogical  Museum  of  the  State  Mining  Bureau,  24 
Fourth  street;  the  Free  Library  (40,000  volumes).  Bush  street,  above  Kearney  street; 
Mechanics' Institute  (library  of  35,000  volumes),  31  Post  street;  Mercantile  Library 
Building,  corner  Van  Ness  and  Golden  Gate  avenues ;  Museum  of  the  California 
Academy  of  Sciences,  on  Market  street ;  and  the  State  Board  of  Trade,  History 
Building,  743  Market  street. 

The  chief  places  of  amusement  are  the  following :  Baldwin  Theatre,  Baldwin 
Hotel,  Market  street;  Alcazar  Theatre,  114  O'Farrell,  near  Stockton;  Orpheum 
Opera  House,  119  O'Farrell  street,  opposite  the  Alcazar;  Bush  Street  Theatre,  south 

43 


side  of  Bush,  between  Montgomery  and  Kearney;  the  new  California  Theatre  (one  of 
the  handsomest  playhouses  in  America),  Bush,  above  Kearney;  Grand  Opera  House, 
Mission,  between  Third  and  P'ourth ;  Standard  Theatre,  north  side  of  Bush,  between 
Montgomery  and  Kearney ;  Tivoli  Opera  House,  Eddy,  near  Market ;  Woodward's 
Gardens,  Mission,  between  Thirteenth  and  Fifteenth;  Grand  Chinese  Theatre,  814 
Washington  street ;  Panorama  Buildings,  corner  Eddy  and  Mason  streets,  and  corner 
Tenth  and  Market  streets. 

The  greatest  curiosity  in  San  Francisco  is  the  Chinese  quarter,  a  rectangular  block 
seven  squares  in  length  by  three  and  four  in  breadth.  It  is  near  the  business  centre, 
and  only  a  few  blocks  away  from  the  palaces  of  the  railway  millionaires.  The  houses 
are  nearly  all  tall,  decayed  buildings,  swarming  with  tenants.  The  blocks  are  cut  up 
into  sections  by  narrow  alleys,  and  filled  with  squalid  underground  dens,  and  attics 
whose  overhanging  dormer  windows  shut  out  all  but  a  slender  patch  of  sky.  The 
cellars  are  occupied  as  shops,  factories,  or  opium  dens.  The  main  streets  are  lined  by 
the  stores  of  the  large  Chinese  merchants.  You  find  yourself  in  a  populous  corner  of 
China.  Even  the  fronts  of  the  houses  have  assumed  a  Celestial  aspect,  not  only  in 
the  signs  and  placards  at  the  windows  and  shop  fronts,  but  in  the  altered  architecture 
and  decorations.  An  interesting  experience  is  to  spend  a  half-hour  in  watching  the 
performance  in  a  Chinese  theatre,  and  listening  to  the  ear-piercing,  mournful  music, 
and  then  adjourn  to  a  neighboring  restaurant,  drink  genuine  Chinese  tea  in  Celestial 
style,  and  taste  the  cakes,  preserved  watermelon,  and  sweetmeats.  In  all  the  stores 
and  other  portions  of  the  Chinese  quarter  Eastern  visitors  are  received  with  the  great- 
est courtesy. 

Golden  Gate  Park,  a  beautiful  tract  of  1,013  acres,  reclaimed  from  the  sand  dunes, 
is  about  three  and  a  half  miles  from  the  Palace  Hotel,  and  may  be  reached  by  several 

44 


of  the  cable-car  lines.  There  are  band  concerts  in  the  park  every  Saturday  and  Sun- 
day in  the  afternoon.  The  Beach,  Cliff  House,  and  Seal  Rocks  are  about  the  same 
distance  beyond  the  entrance  to  the  park,  and  may  be  reached  by  the  Haight  street 
cable  cars  and  a  connecting  dummy  line,  and  also  by  the  California  street  cable  line, 
or  the  Powell  and  Jackson  street  line.  Sutro  Heights  are  near  the  Cliff  House.  The 
Presidio  (a  military  reservation  of  1,500  acres)  may  be  reached  by  the  Union  street 
cable  cars  and  a  dummy  line.  A  band  plays  at  the  barracks  at  2.00  p.  M.  daily  except 
Thursday  and  Saturday.  Telegraph  Hill  (elevation  794  feet,  and  overlooking  the  city 
and  the  bay)  is  about  half  a  mile  from  Market  street,  at  the  opposite  extremity  of 
Montgomery  street. 

Our  excursionists  will  have  for  their  headquarters  in  San  Francisco  two  of  the  best 
appointed  hotels  in  the  country  —  The  Baldwin  or  The  California.  The  Baldwin  has 
long  enjoyed  not  merely  a  local  but  a  continental  reputation.  It  has  an  unsurpassed 
location  on  the  northeast  corner  of  Market  and  Powell  streets,  in  the  heart  of  the 
shopping  district,  at  an  easy  walk  from  Chinatown,  and  within  reach  of  every  part  of 
the  city  by  cable  cars  from  the  door.  E.  J.  Baldwin  is  the  proprietor,  and  Col.  R.  H. 
Warfield  the  manager.  The  California  is  in  like  manner  unsurpassed  in  style  or  ser- 
vice by  any  hotel  in  the  East.  It  is  situated  a  little  farther  down  town  than  The  Bald- 
win, on  Bush  street,  near  Kearney,  and  is  nearly  new.  The  manager  is  Mr.  A.  F. 
Kinzler. 

From  San  Francisco  to  Santa  Cruz  and  Monterey. 

After  three  days'  stay  in  San  Francisco  we  shall  leave  that  city  Tuesday  morning. 
May  23,  for  a  side  trip  to  several  delightful  resorts  on  the  coast  and  inland,  from  50 
to  125  miles  south  of  the  Golden  Gate,  returning  to  the  metropolis  for  a  further  visit 

45 


the  following  week.  We  first  go  to  Santa  Cruz,  eighty  miles  distant.  Our  route  lies 
over  the  narrow-gauge  division  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  line,  through  Ala- 
meda, Newark,  Santa  Clara,  San  Jose,  and  Los  Gatos,  and  thence  through  the  pictur- 
esque coast  range  of  mountains.  Los  Gatos,  like  San  Jose,  is  famed  for  its  vineyards 
and  fruit  orchards.  In  its  course  through  the  mountains,  beyond  Los  Gatos,  the  road 
makes  many  twists  and  turns.  There  are  several  tunnels  on  this  part  of  the  line,  one 
of  which  is  3,800  feet  in  length.  A  part  of  the  way  lies  through  a  grand  redwood 
forest;  and  a  short  distance  beyond  Felton,  and  within  half  a  dozen  miles  of  Santa 
Cruz,  are  the  "  liig  Trees,"  a  group  of  giant  redwoods,  the  Sequoia  semper  virens  of  the 
botanist.  The  largest  of  these  is  said  to  be  366  feet  high  and  20  feet  in  diameter. 
"  Fremont's  Tree  "  contains  an  aperture  in  which  the  late  General  Fremont  and  an 
exploring  party  camped  several  weeks,  and  in  which  at  another  time  a  trapper  and  his 
family  made  their  home.  Other  trees  and  shrubs  grow  here  in  profusion,  including 
the  Madrona^  the  Manzanita,  and  the  California  laurel,  or  bay  tree,  together  with  a 
variety  of  ferns,  some  of  which  are  very  beautiful. 

Santa  Cruz  is  situated  at  one  extremity  of  Monterey  Bay,  with  a  picturesque  coast 
and  a  matchless  beach.  The  forest-clad  slopes  of  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains  are  only 
a  few  miles  away,  and  form  an  interesting  feature,  with  a  foreground  of  gardens,  groves, 
and  pretty  homes.  The  view  in  every  direction  is  charming.  The  cliffs  are  in  places 
very  abrupt,  and  the  sea  has  carved  them  into  grottoes,  natural  bridges,  and  curiously 
formed  towers.  There  will  be  a  carriage  ride  here,  in  which  both  the  beach  and  the 
cliffs  will  be  visited. 

The  quaint  old  town  of  Monterey  lies  at  the  opposite  extremity  of  Monterey  Bay 
from  Santa  Cruz.  The  two  places  are  only  about  a  score  of  miles  away,  but  we  must 
travel  more  than  twice  that  distance  around  the  shore.     This  is  done  on  the  Southern 

46 


Pacific  Company's  broad-gauge  Santa  Cruz  line,  which  connects  with  the  main  line  of 
the  Monterey  route  at  Pajaro.  There  are  many  magnificent  coast  views  on  leaving 
Santa  Cruz,  and  also  near  Soquel  and  Aptos.  Watsonville  is  the  most  important 
town  on  this  part  of  the  route. 

Monterey  and  the  Hotel  del  Monte. 

The  party  will  reach  the  famous  Hotel  del  Monte,  at  Monterey,  late  in  the  after- 
noon.    Several  days  are  to  be  devoted  to  this  charming  resort. 

Monterey  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  the  old  Spanish  towns  on  the  Pacific 
Coast,  having  been  associated  with  the  earliest  historic  events  of  the  State  and  the 
earlier  province,  and  is  delightfully  situated  upon  the  sloping  shores  of  the  beautiful 
bay  of  the  same  name.  It  was  California's  first  capital.  The  bay  of  Monterey  is  a 
magnificent  sheet  of  water.  There  is  a  wealth  of  color  in  both  sea  and  sky  highly 
suggestive  of  Southern  Italy.  Upon  the  beaches  below  Monterey  are  found  many 
varieties  of  sea  mosses,  shells,  pebbles,  and  agates,  and  some  of  these  are  very 
brilliant  in  color.  The  bay  is  well  protected,  and  is  delightfully  adapted  to  yachting; 
and  the  lovers  of  angling  also  find  abundant  sport,  both  on  the  sea  and  in  neighboring 
streams.     In  1880  Monterey  became  a  fashionable  watering-place. 

The  site  selected  for  the  famous  Hotel  del  Monte  was  in  a  stately  grove  of  pine, 
oak,  and  cedar,  the  trees  being  sufiiciently  scattered  to  admit  of  the  adornment  of 
the  grounds  by  means  of  driveways,  foot-paths,  lawns,  and  beds  of  flowers.  A  plat 
of  126  acres  was  set  aside  and  inclosed  as  the  hotel  grounds,  while  7,000  acres  more 
were  purchased  for  other  purposes.  The  fact  that  the  visitor  may  ride  a  score  of 
miles  over  well-kept,  macadamized  roads,  and  be  nearly  all  the  time  within  the  borders 
of  the  hotel  company's  property,  serves  to  show,  in  some  measure,  the  vast  extent  of 
these  possessions. 

47 


In  its  external  and  internal  appearance,  and  in  the  social  atmosphere  and  tone 
which  pervade  the  entire  establishment,  the  Hotel  del  Monte  reminds  one  infinitely 
more  of  a  modern  English  country  mansion  than  of  an  American  watering-place  hotel. 
The  general  design  includes  a  central  edifice,  with  two  extensive  wings  or  annexes, 
connected  with  the  central  structure  by  arcades,  which  extend  in  semi-circular  form 
on  each  side.  There  are  in  the  main  structure  no  rooms,  and  in  each  annex  i6o 
rooms,  or  430  apartments  in  all.  The  general  size  of  the  rooms  is  16  by  19  feet. 
The  verandas  are  very  spacious,  and  the  profusion  of  flowers  about  the  house  makes 
it  especially  attractive.  There  is  a  magnificent  outlook  upon  shrubs  and  flowers  in 
every  direction.  The  Laguna  del  Rey  is  a  beautiful  lake,  ornamented  with  a  mam- 
moth fountain ;  and  the  famous  beach,  with  its  magnificent  bath  building,  containing, 
in  addition  to  its  great  swimming-tank,  210  dressing-rooms,  is  but  a  short  distance 
away.  Figures,  however,  convey  little  impression  of  the  peculiar  charm  of  this 
elegant  and  unique  resort,  upon  which  many  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  —  over 
a  million  in  fact  —  have  been  lavished.  In  the  grounds  are  the  stables,  elaborate  and 
complete,  stocked  with  handsome  horses  and  vehicles  of  all  kinds;  for  riding  and 
driving  are  favorite  pastimes.  The  "  eighteen-mile  drive  "  around  the  peninsula  is 
one  of  the  grandest  in  the  world. 

The  Hotel  del  Monte  is  under  the  personal  supervision  and  management  of  Mr. 
George  Schonewald,  who  has  been  identified  with  its  direction  nearly  from  the  start, 
and  to  whose  taste  and  skill  its  immense  popularity  is  largely  due. 

From  Monterey  Northward — San  Jose. 
Leaving  the  Hotel  del  Monte  Friday  afternoon,  we  shall  journey  northward  to  San 
Jose  via  Castroville,  Pajaro,  Gilroy,  and  Hillsdale.     From  all  these  points  branch 

48 


lines  extend,  the  one  from  the  latter  place  leading  to  the  famous  quicksilver  mines  at 
New  Almaden,  eight  miles  distant  in  the  mountains  west  of  Hillsdale. 

On  our  arrival  in  San  Jose  we  shall  proceed  to  the  elegant  Hotel  Vendome.  With 
a  population  of  about  20,000,  San  Jose  is  nevertheless  a  city  of  gardens,  orchards, 
and  vineyards.  It  is  one  of  the  great  centres  of  the  cherry  culture.  The  streets  are 
spacious  and  lined  with  shade  trees,  and  the  public  and  many  of  the  private  buildings 
are  imposing.  Among  the  former  are  the  Court  House,  City  Hall,  and  the  Normal 
School,  which  stands  in  a  park  of  twenty-eight  acres.  The  State  Hospital  for  the 
Chronic  Insane  is  at  Agnew's,  five  miles  distant.  The  Vendome  occupies,  with  its 
surrounding  park,  a  square  of  twelve  acres  in  the  prettiest  section  of  the  city.  It  is 
one  of  the  neatest  and  best-equipped  hotels  in  California. 

Mount  Hamilton  and  the  Lick  Observatory. 

The  party  will  make  an  excursion  by  stage  on  Saturday  to  the  summit  of  Mount 
Hamilton,  the  site  of  the  Lick  Observatory.  The  elevation  of  the  observatory  is  4,209 
feet,  and  San  Jose  stands  eighty  feet  above'  the  sea  level.  The  air-line  distance 
between  the  two  points  is  only  thirteen  miles,  but  the  road  is  twenty-six  miles  in 
length.  The  gradient  is  in  all  places  kept  less  than  six  and  a  half  feet  in  the  hundred 
(353  feet  to  the  mile),  this  being  maintained  through  a  series  of  turns  no  less  than  367 
in  number.  The  road  was  built  by  the  county  of  Santa  Clara  at  a  cost  of  over  $75,000, 
in  accordance  with  an  agreement  made  between  the  supervisors  and  James  Lick  a 
few  months  before  he  died.  It  is  a  remarkable  piece  of  engineering,  and  the  ride  is  a 
constant  source  of  delight,  not  only  through  the  matchless  views  of  the  beautiful 
Santa  Clara  Valley  and  beyond  constantly  being  unfolded,  but  also  by  reason  of  the 
ease  with  which  it  is  accomplished. 

49 


The  observatory,  which  was  founded  by  Mr.  Lick,  was  erected  and  fitted  up  at  an 
expense  of  nearly  ^1,000,000.  It  is  one  of  the  most  complete  in  the  world,  and  it  con- 
tains, with  other  treasures  of  science,  the  world's  greatest  telescope.  The  remains  of 
the  princely  donor  rest  in  the  foundation  pier  of  this  great  instrument.  The  observa- 
tory is  under  the  direction  of  Professor  Edward  S.  Holden,  as  president  of  the 
University  of  California.  No  other  institution  of  its  kind  in  the  world  is  so  freely 
accessible  to  the  public,  who  may  even  look  through  the  great  telescope  between  the 
hours  of  seven  and  ten  o'clock  Saturday  evenings.  Visitors  are  admitted  to  the 
observatory,  under  proper  restrictions,  every  day  in  the  year.  Those  who  are  not 
fortunate  enough  to  gain  a  glimpse  of  the  heavens  through  the  great  telescope  can 
look  through  the  twelve-inch  instrument,  which,  to  most  persons,  is  likely  to  be  quite 
as  satisfactory.  The  excursion  will  be  made  in  the  roomy  and  comfortable  vehicles 
of  the  Mount  Hamilton  Stage  Company. 

From  San  Jose  to  San  Francisco. 

Leaving  San  Jose  Monday,  May  29,  the  party  will  proceed  northward  over  the 
direct  line  to  San  Francisco.  Menlo"  Park,  Redwood,  San  Mateo,  and  Millbrae  are 
charming  places  of  residence,  and  scores  of  pretty  villas,  with  here  and  there  the 
palatial  homes  of  railway  and  mining  magnates,  are  seen  along  the  route.  At  Palo 
Alto  is  the  recently  opened  Leland  Stanford  Junior  University.  This  noble  institu- 
tion of  learning  was  founded  in  1885,  when  the  Hon.  Leland  Stanford  and  his  wife, 
as  a  monument  to  their  only  child,  Leland  Stanford,  Junior,  made  a  deed  of  trust  to 
a  board  of  citizens,  whereby  they  dedicated  property  to  the  value  of  $20,000,000  to 
be  expended  in  the  establishment  of  a  university  having  for  its  main  object  the 
preparation  of  young  men  and  women  for  self-maintenance,  with  facilities  also  for 
those  higher  forms  of  education  which  belong  to  an  institution  of  this  magnitude. 

SO 


Among  the  83,000  acres  of  land  included  in  the  deed  were  the  Vina  ranch  in  Tehama 
county,  containing  the  largest  vineyard  in  the  world,  and  the  famous  Palo  Alto  ranch 
and  stock  farm  in  Santa  Clara  and  San  Mateo  counties.  The  corner-stone  was  laid 
in  1887,  and  the  institution  was  formally  opened  in  the  autumn  of  1891. 

The  party  will  pass  Tuesday  and  Wednesday  in  San  Francisco,  at  The  Baldwin  or 
The  California,  as  before. 

From  San  Francisco  to  Portland. 

The  journey  from  California  to  Oregon  will  be  made  on  the  Southern  Pacific  Com- 
pany's Mount  Shasta  line,  which  was  completed  for  its  entire  length  Dec.  17,  1887. 
This  is  an  all-rail  route,  which  extends  through  the  Sacramento  Valley,  over  the  Sis- 
kiyou Mountains,  and  down  through  the  Rogue,  Umpqua,  and  Willamette  Valleys  of 
Oregon.  Leaving  San  Francisco  by  the  Oakland  ferry  Wednesday  afternoon.  May  31, 
the  party  will  proce.ed  to.  Oakland  Pier,  where  a  train  of  Pullman  palace  cars  will  be  in 
waiting.  A  short  distance  east  of  Sacramento  the  Oregon  road  branches  northward 
from  the  Ogden  line,  passing  up  the  rich  and  productive  Sacramento  Valley  for  its 
entire  length.  For  over  100  miles  the  valley  has  a  wide  expanse,  and  the  railway  goes 
through  Marysville,  Chico,  Tehama,  Red  Bluff,  Redding,  and  other  large  towns. 

The  early  morning  of  Thursday  finds  us  in  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  upper  Sacra- 
mento and  approaching  noble  Mount  Shasta.  Frequent  glimpes  are  had  of  the  snow- 
white  peak  long  before  we  reach  Sisson's,  but  from  that  point  the  massive  mountain 
is  revealed  in  all  its  grand  proportions.  The  elevation  of  the  road  at  this  place  is 
only  3,555  feet ;  and  the  mountain,  which  is  eight  miles  distant,  towers  to  the  height 
of  14,442  feet.  Its  slopes  are  covered  with  everlasting  snows  far  down  from  its  shapely 
summit;  and,  as  it  stands  out  almost  solitary  and  alone,  its  height  and  massiveness 
are  all  the  more  impressive.     There  are,  in  fact,  three  peaks,  the  central  one  being 

5'  


flanked  on  the  west  by  a  large  crater,  whose  rim  is  at  an  elevation  of  about  12,000  feet. 
Among  the  other  elevations  in  this  section  are  Muir's  Peak,  or  Black  Butte  (6,150 
feet),  the  Scott  Mountains  (9,000  feet),  the  Siskiyou  range  (from  6,000  to  8,000  feet), 
and  farther  away,  Mount  Pitt  (9,500  feet).  The  railway  strikes  across  to  the  Siskiyou 
range,  first  descending  to  and  crossing  the  Klamath  River,  the  second  largest  stream 
in  California. 

Not  far  north  of  the  Klamath  we  cross  the  line  into  Oregon,  and  soon  after  dive 
into  the  Siskiyou  Tunnel,  losing  sight  of  the  great  California  mountain.  On  the  north 
side  of  the  range  we  descend  by  a  wonderful  series  of  curves  into  the  charming  valley 
of  the  Rogue  River,  a  region  of  rich  farms.  Farther  north  is  the  valley  of  the  Ump- 
qua  River,  and  from  thence  we  cross  to  the  valley  of  the  Willamette,  which  we  descend 
for  nearly  200  miles  to  Portland.  This  valley,  with  its  vast  grain  fields  and  its  teem- 
ing farms,  is  almost  a  repetition  of  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento. 

Oregon  and  Washington. 
As  these  two  subdivisions  of  the  United  States  are  closely  allied  in  industry  and 
commerce,  as  well  as  in  geographical  features,  they  should  be  considered  together. 
Oregon  has  an  area  of  95,275  square  miles,  and  the  new  State  of  Washington  69,994 
square  miles.  The  recent  census  gave  the  former  a  population  of  312,490 — an 
increase  of  137,722  in  ten  years  and  221,467  in  twenty  years.  Washington  was  found 
to  have  349,516  —  an  increase  of  274,400  in  ten  years  and  325,561  in  twenty  years. 
The  Cascade  Mountains,  a  broad  volcanic  plateau,  separate  both  Oregon  and  Wash- 
ington into  two  unequal  divisions.  Westward  of  this  mountain  chain,  from  forty  to 
seventy  miles  distant,  is  still  another  and  lower  range  lying  along  the  coast.  Within 
this  great  basin,  about  400  miles  in  length,  are  many  fertile  valleys  and  the  great 

52 


"timber  region  of  the  Puget  Sound  district.  The  climate  of  this  section  is  mild  and 
equable,  with  an  abundant  rain-fall. 

The  area  east  of  the  Cascade  range,  extending  to  the  base  of  the  Blue  and  Bitter 
Root  Mountains,  presents  many  features  in  marked  contrast  to  those  of  the  coast 
region.  A  narrow  strip  on  the  north  is  mountainous  and  covered  with  forest,  but  the 
greater  portion  embraces  the  immense  plains  and  undulating  prairies  of  the  Columbia 
Basin  — 150  miles  wide  and  nearly  500  miles  long.  In  this  eastern  section  the 
temperature  is  higher  in  summer  and  lower  in  winter  than  in  the  coast  region,  and  the 
ram-fall  is  only  half  as  great ;  but  the  conditions  are,  in  a  large  part  of  the  tract, 
excellent  for  cereal  crops.  Agriculture  is  the  leading  industry,  and  wheat  the  princi- 
pal product  The  raising  of  cattle,  sheep,  and  horses  is  second  in  importance  only  to 
agriculture.  Coal  and  iron  take  the  leading  places  among  the  mineral  productions, 
the  principal  mines  being  near  Puget  Sound.  The  Columbia  River  may  be  navigated 
for  725  miles,  the  Willamette  for  138  miles,  and  the  Snake  for  a  considerable  distance. 

An  attempt  to  form  a  Territorial  government  was  made  as  early  as  1841,  before  the 
dispute  about  the  boundary  line  arose  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain. 
The  present  dividing  line  between  the  United  States  and  the  British  possessions  was 
established  by  the  treaty  of  June  15,  1846.  In  1853  the  Territory  was  divided,  and 
what  was  known  as  the  District  of  Vancouver  became  Washington  Territory.  Oregon 
was  organized  as  a  State  in  1859,  with  a  population  of  52,465;  and  Washington  was 
admitted  to  statehood,  together  with  Montana  and  the  two  Dakotas,  in  1889. 

Portland. 

Arriving  in  Portland  Friday  morning  there  will  be  an  omnibus  transfer  from  the 
station  to  the  new  and  magnificent  hotel.  The  Portland.     This  establishment  has  been 

53 


erected  by  a  company  of  citizens  at  a  cost  of  about  ^750,000,  and  is  one  of  the  finest 
hotels  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  It  occupies  a  whole  square  in  one  of  the  pleasantest  and 
healthiest  sections  of  the  city,  and  has  been  furnished  in  a  lavish  manner.  Its  manager 
is  Mr.  Charles  E.  Leland,  a  member  of  a  famous  hotel-keeping  family,  and  personally 
popular  through  his  connection  with  well-known  Eastern  hotels. 

Portland  has  progressed  rapidly  within  the  past  few  years.  Populous  suburbs  are 
growing  up  on  the  east  or  opposite  side  of  the  Willamette,  in  connection  with  the  rail- 
road shops,  flouring  mills,  and  other  manufacturing  establishments.  Although 
Astoria  was  settled  as  early  as  181 1,  the  first  white  man  is  supposed  to  have  landed 
upon  the  present  site  of  Portland  in  1843.  The  founders  of  Portland  were  two  New 
England  men  ;  and,  in  bestowing  a  name  upon  the  place,  it  is  said  to  have  been  actually 
a  toss-up  whether  the  chief  city  of  Maine  or  the  city  at  the  head  of  Massachusetts  Bay 
should  bear  the  honor  of  the  designation.  The  business  thoroughfares  are  lined  with 
fine  edifices,  and  some  of  the  residences  on  the  upper  streets  are  very  tasteful,  as  well 
as  elegant  and  costly.  The  Chinese,  who  form  a  large  element  in  the  population,  are 
seen  everywhere.  "  Chinatown  "  is  not  a  contracted  quarter,  as  in  San  Francisco  and 
Los  Angeles,  but  is  scattered  along  the  best  portion  of  Second  street  for  a  dozen  squares 
or  more.  Many  of  the  churches  and  school  buildings  are  imposing,  and  the  same  may 
be  said  of  the  Post  Office  and  some  of  the  other  public  edifices.  The  recent  census 
gave  Portland  a  population  of  47,294,  while  its  dependent  suburbs  —  East  Portland 
and  Albina  —  were  credited  with  10,481  and  5,104  respectively. 

From  the  slopes  back  of  the  city  the  views  are  magnificent.  Mount  Hood  (11,025 
feet)  is  here  the  dominant  feature  in  the  landscape,  lifting  its  proud  head  above  the 
far-stretching  forests;  while  the  beautifully  rounded  snow-clad  top  of  Mount  St. 
Helen's  (9,750  feet)  and  other  mountains  are  also  in  sight.     There  will  be  a  carriage 

54 


ride  through  the  finest  business  and  residence  portions  of  the  city,  and  to  the  heights 
above. 

On  the  Columbia  River. 

A  trip  up  the  Columbia  River  by  rail  and  back  by  boat  is  to  occupy  the  day  Satur- 
day. The  party  will  leave  Portland  in  the  morning  by  the  Union  Picific  Railway  and 
go  as  far  as  Bonneville,  where  a  steamer  of  the  Union  Pacific's  Dalles  route  will  be 
taken  for  the  return.  We  are  here  in  the  heart  of  the  Cascade  range,  and  the 
scenery  is  wonderfully  picturesque.  Castle  Rock,  a  massive  mountain,  stands  boldly 
forth  on  the  north  shore  i,ooo  feet  high.  A  little  way  below,  on  the  same  side  of 
the  river,  is  Cape  Horn,  a  bold  headland  of  basaltic  rock,  which  forms  above  it  a 
picturesque  little  bay.  On  the  opposite  cliffs,  marking  the  Oregon  shore,  are  several 
falls,  which  almost  rival  in  loftiness  those  in  the  Yosemite  Valley.  The  Union  Pacific 
Railway  runs  almost  beneath  the  spray  of  Multnomah  Falls,  which  in  two  great 
plunges  descend  800  feet.  The  falls  are  situated  in  a  romantic  gorge.  The  Bridal 
Veil,  the  Latourelle,  and  the  Oneonta  are  three  beautiful  falls,  the  latter  being  nearly 
as  high  as  Multnomah.  At  other  points  flashes  of  foam,  high  amid  the  trees  of  the 
mountain-side,  mark  the  presence  of  unnamed  and  unvisited  cascades. 

Other  strange  objects  of  interest  are  the  tall  pillars  of  rock  which  rise  from  the 
water  or  from  the  narrow  shelf  of  shore  along  which  the  railway  trains  are  seen 
creeping.  Rooster  Rock  and  the  Pillars  of  Hercules  are  the  most  prominent  of 
these.  In  places  the  cliffs  crowded  the  river  so  closely  that  the  men  who  did  the 
blasting  for  the  railway  were  let  down  from  above  by  slings.  We  gradually  get 
below  the  mountains,  and  then  new  pictures  of  beauty  are  formed  by  the  tall 
symmetrical  snow  pinnacle  of  Mount  Hood,  which  rises  now  behind  us.  Washougal, 
La  Camas,  and  Vancouver  are  towns  upon  the  Washington  shore,  the  latter  being 
_  55 


only  six  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Willamette,  and  an  important  military  post. 
It  occupies  the  site  of  old  Fort  Vancouver. 

Rounding  a  point  from  the  Columbia  into  the  Willamette,  the  remainder  of  the 
journey  is  on  the  latter  river.  While  on  the  Willamette,  the  view  from  the  steamer's 
deck  is  even  more  enchanting  than  on  shore,  since  it  includes  much  more  of  the  sur- 
roundings. Three  miles  above  its  mouth,  five  snow-capped  peaks  are  visible  at  once. 
With  the  exception  of  Mount  Tacoma  (14,444  feet),  these  mountains  are  exceeded  in 
loftiness  by  many  hundred  elevations  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  chain;  but  here  the 
beholder  is  nearly  at  the  sea-level,  while  no  other  high  mountains  are  near,  so  that  the 
glittering  silver  crowns  seem  supreme,  towering  far  above  every  other  object. 

From  Portland  to  Tacoma. 

The  journey  from  Portland  to  Tacoma,  a  distance  of  145  miles,  will  be  made  upon 
the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  Monday  afternoon,  June  5.  At  Goble,  thirty-eight 
miles  from  Portland,  the  train  is  taken  upon  the  large  ferry-boat  "  Tacoma,''  and  con- 
veyed across  the  Columbia  River  to  Kalama,  on  the  right  or  Washington  bank  of  the 
stream.  For  eight  miles  the  road  then  follows  the  Columbia,  and  for  a  farther  dis- 
tance of  eighteen  miles  it  extends  up  the  east  bank  of  the  Cowlitz  River.  Then  it 
crosses  to  the  valley  of  the  Chehalis,  and  from  thence  to  the  valley  of  the  Puyallup, 
at  the  mouth  of  which,  and  on  the  shores  of  Puget  Sound,  the  city  of  Tacoma  lies. 

The  Alaska  Voyage. 
On  arriving  at  Tacoma,  we  shall  go  at  once  on  board  the  Alaska  steamer,  "The 
Queen,"  which  is  to  be  our  home  during  the  coming  eleven  days.     This  vessel  is  the 
finest  of  the  Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Company's  fleet,  and  the  fact  that  she  is   under 

56 


the  command  of  Captain  James  Carroll  will  render  the  voyage  especially  desirable. 
"The  Queen,"  already  one  of  the  most  staunch,  comfortable,  and  best-appointed 
vessels  in  the  Pacific  Coast  service,  has  been  put  in  the  best  possible  condition  for 
Alaska  tourist  travel.  New  and  commodious  staterooms  have  been  placed  upon  the 
upper  or  hurricane  deck,  and  furnished  in  the  most  comfortable  and  elegant  style. 
These  rooms,  which  are  intended  for  two  passengers,  each  having  only  two  berths, 
have  been  reserved  for  the  members  of  our  party  exclusively,  together  with  other  deck 
rooms  of  the  best  class.  Captain  Carroll's  intimate  knowledge  of  all  the  attractive 
points  upon  the  Alaska  route,  and  the  fact  that  the  voyage  is  to  be  devoted  to  the 
service  of  the  passengers  wholly,  and  not  to  freighting  purposes  (freight  being  carried 
upon  other  steamers),  will  serve  to  make  the  trip  enjoyable  in  the  fullest  degree. 

Puget  Sound. 

The  first  part  of  our  voyage  lies  through  the  waters  of  picturesque  Puget,  Sound. 
This  body  of  water  has  an  area  of  2,000  square  miles,  with  an  irregular  shore  line  of 
1,594  miles.  The  shores  are  generally  densely  wooded  with  gigantic  fir  trees,  and  at 
several  points  are  immense  saw  mills.  There  are  many  islands,  and  for  the  most  part 
they  are  or  have  been  covered  with  timber  like  the  mainland.  There  is  deep  water 
everywhere,  and  at  hundreds  of  places  large  ships  could  be  loaded  directly  from  the 
shore,  if  necessary.  The  lumber  and  coal  trade  of  the  sound  is  very  great,  and  con- 
stantly increasing.  Besides  the  mines  in  the  Puyallup  Valley  near  Tacoma,  there  are 
others  near  Seattle,  from  which  1,000  tons  of  coal  a  day  are  shipped,  and  others  on 
Vancouver  Island.  Iron  ore  has  also  been  found  contiguous  to  the  coal  fields  near 
Seattle,  and  also  near  Port  Townsend.  The  shores  of  the  sound  are  in  many  places 
abrupt,  and  high   mountains  seem   to  environ   this  beautiful  body  of  water.     From 

57 


Commencement  Bay,  at  its  southern  extremity,  and  also  on  the  broader  part  of  the 
sound,  Mount  Tacoma  becomes  a  prominent  landmark ;  while  farther  north  Mount 
Baker  replaces  it  with  its  handsome  cone  of  snow.  The  latter  is  situated  in  the 
northern  part  of  Whatcom  county,  near  the  line  of  British  Columbia,  about  thirty 
miles  from  the  sound,  and  has  an  elevation  of  10,800  feet.  Northward  of  Puget 
Sound,  and  extending  to  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  lies  Washington  Sound.  In  this  region 
are  San  Juan,  Orcas,  Fidalgo,  Lopez,  and  many  lesser  islands  belonging  to  the  same 
group.  At  the  head  of  the  broad  peninsula  west  of  the  sound,  extending  towards  the 
Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  and  forming  the  northwestern  extremity  of  the  State  of  Wash- 
ington, is  the  noble  Olympic  range  of  mountains,  from  6,000  to  upwards  of  8,000  feet 
in  height.  These  latter  elevations  constitute  a  grand  feature  in  the  outlook  from  the 
deck  of  the  steamer  while  crossing  the  sound. 

Tacoma,  Seattle,  and  Port  Townsend,  Wash.,  and  Victoria,  B.  C,  are  the  chief 
cities  on  Puget  Sound,  but  in  our  northward  voyage  we  shall  pay  them  only  brief 
visits.     Time  will  be  afforded  for  a  fuller  inspection  on  our  return. 

Along  the  East  Coast  of  Vancouver  Island. 

Vancouver  Island  stretches  along  the  coast  of  British  Columbia  200  miles,  in  a 
northwesterly  direction,  and  our  course  lies  through  the  inward  channels  and  strafits. 
From  Victoria  we  turn  northward  through  Haro  Strait,  which,  with  the  San  Juan 
Islands,  lying  easterly,  has  become  historic  through  the  contention  of  the  United 
States  and  Great  Britain  over  the  international  boundary,  trouble  having  arisen  in 
consequence  of  the  somewhat  ambiguous  phraseology  of  an  old  treaty.  The  question 
was  whether  this  channel  or  Rosario  Strait,  one  of  the  lesser  channels  lying  farther 
eastward  toward  the  mainland,  was  meant  as  the  boundary  line.     The  emperor  of 


Germany,  then  king  of  Prussia,  to  whom  the  Interpretation  of  the  treaty  was  left,  in 
1872  decided  in  favor  of  Haro  Strait,  and  thus  threw  into  the  United  States  the  valuable 
group  of  islands  referred  to.  The  view  from  the  steamer's  deck  is  superb.  Mount  Baker, 
the  noble  Olympic  range  south  of  Victoria  and  across  Juan  de  Fuca  Strait,  hundreds 
of  other  peaks  on  the  islands  and  the  mainland,  and  even  distant  Mount  Tacoma, 
when  the  atmosphere  is  exceedingly  clear,  may  be  seen  ;  while  the  picturesque  shores 
of  the  archipelago  through  which  we  are  passing  form  ever-changing  visions  of  beauty. 
Emerging  from  Haro  Strait,  probably  through  Active  Pass,  we  are  for  a  time  in  the 
broader  waters  of  the  Strait  of  Georgia,  and  skirting  Galiano,  Valdes,  and  Gabriola 
Islands,  which  lie  along  the  coast  of  Vancouver. 

The  passengers  are  quite  likely  to  awaken  the  succeeding  morning  near  Nanaimo, 
an  old  Hudson  Bay  Company's  post  seventy  miles  north  of  Victoria.  Near  that  town 
are  extensive  coal  mines,  where  our  steamer  will  probably  stop  for  fuel  on  her  south- 
ward trip,  coal  for  the  present  voyage  having  been  obtained  previous  to  our  embarka- 
tion. The  mines  here  are  of  immense  value,  as  the  coal  is  of  unsurpassed  quality  for 
steaming  purposes.  Their  discovery  by  the  late  Richard  Dunsmuir  was  wholly  acci- 
dental. He  chanced  to  be  riding  a  horse  down  through  the  forest,  when  the  animal 
stumbled  over  an  outcropping  of  lignite.  A  partner  who  originally  put  in  ;[f  1,000  to 
develop  the  property,  later  on  sold  his  interest  to  Mr.  Dunsmuir  for  ;^  150,000,  and 
another  who  invested  the  same  amount  withdrew  at  the  end  of  ten  years  with  ;^ 50,000. 
A  railway  runs  from  Victoria  to  Nanaimo  and  the  Wellington  mines,  and  the  telegraph 
reaches  thus  far;  but  beyond,  the  traveler  is  shut  out  from  the  happenings  in  the 
world  at  large.  For  the  nonce  we  may  give  ourselves  over  to  the  full  enjoyment  of 
scenery  unrivaled  in  any  part  of  the  globe.  We  continue  through  the  Strait  of 
Georgia,  which  narrows  when  Lasqueti  and  Texada  Islands  are  reached. 

59 


The  view  of  the  mountains,  especially  of  those  on  the  mainland,  is  superB.  Long 
lines  of  snow  peaks,  tossed  into  fantastic  forms  and  gleaming  in  the  declining  sun 
like  silver  and  gold,  fill  the  eastern  horizon.  There  is  a  series  of  wonderful  fiords, 
penetrating  the  coast  in  some  instances  for  loo  miles  or  more  north  of  Burrard  Inlet, 
known  successively  as  Howe  Sound,  Jervis  Inlet,  Desolation  Sound,  Toba,  Bute, 
Loughborough,  Knight,  Kingcombe,  Seymour,  and  Belize  Inlets;  These  are  invari- 
ably lined  with  high  mountains,  the  waters  at  their  foot  being  of  untold  depths. 

About  Jervis  and  Bute  Inlets  are  peaks  between  8,000  and  9,000  feet  high.  A 
group  of  needle-like  spires  near  the  latter,  8,100  feet  high,  is  especially  notable.  The 
whole  region  is  uninhabited  except  by  a  few  scattered  Indian  tribes ;  and  the  same 
may  almost  be  said  of  the  northwestern  two-thirds  of  Vancouver  Island,  where,  in 
fact,  no  signs  of  human  life  are  discernible  except  around  a  few  saw  mills,  salmon 
canneries,  and  two  or  three  native  villages.  We  enter  Discovery  Passage,  the  first  of 
the  river-like  channels  through  which  we  are  to  journey  for  many  hundreds  of  miles, 
passing  on  the  right  Cape  Mudge,  and  from  an  expansion  of  the  passage  caused  by  an 
indentation  of  the  Vancouver  shore,  known  as  Menzies  Bay,  pass  into  the  famous 
Seymour  Narrows.  Through  this  contracted  channel  the  tides  rush  with  great  velocity, 
sometimes  running  nine  knots  an  hour.  The  steamer  is  so  timed  as  to  go  through  the 
Narrows  with  a  favoring  tide.  Discovery  Passage,  and  also  Johnstone  Strait,  which 
is  beyond,  lying  between  Vancouver  Island  and  the  mainland,  are  lined  with  mountains 
of  from  3,000  to  6,000  feet  elevation.  Farther  inland  on  both  sides  are  still  higher 
peaks,  of  which  occasional  glimpses  are  had.  In  the  interior  of  the  island  are  moun- 
tains over  8,000  feet  high.  Down  many  of  the  heights  cascades  are  seen  coursing, 
especially  after  a  recent  rain. 

Johnstone  Strait  is  fifty-five  miles  in  length,  and  is  succeeded  by  a  lesser  stretch  of 

60 


water  called  Broughton  Strait,  which  lies  between  Vancouver  and  Malcolm  Islands. 
On  Cormorant  Island,  opposite  the  Nimkeesh  River,  is  the  Indian  village  of  Alert  Bay 
and  also  a  cannery.  At  the  south  extremity  of  the  town  is  a  native  burial  ground, 
where  the  graves  are  quaintly  decorated  with  flags  and  rude  carvings.  These  Indians 
are  mainly  of  the  Nimkeesh  tribe,  although  there  are  also  some  of  the  Kwawkewlths, 
who  come  chiefly  from  Fort  Rupert  above,  towards  the  head  of  Vancouver  Island. 
The  latter  are  among  the  most  degraded  people  living  on  the  coast,  and,  notwithstand- 
ing the  efforts  of  the  missionaries,  remain  to  a  large  extent  in  paganism.  The  conical 
peak  seen  on  Vancouver  Island,  and  long  visible,  is  Mount  Holdsworth  (3,040  feet). 
When  the  open  water  is  reached  north  of  Broughton  Strait,  Fort  Rupert,  an  old  Hud- 
son Bay  Company's  post,  and  now  an  Indian  agency,  is  seen  on  the  left. 

Above  Vancouver  Island. 

We  now  leave  Vancouver  Island,  its  northern  and  northwesternmost  capes,  Com- 
merell  and  Scott,  with  the  string  of  Scott  Islands,  being  seen  at  the  left  after  Queen 
Charlotte's  Sound  is  entered.  This  body  of  water,  less  than  forty  miles  in  extent,  and 
the  still  smaller  Milbank  Sound,  farther  north,  are  alrnost  the  only  places  where,  even 
und^r  the  proper  conditions  for  such  things,  the  steamer  is  exposed  to  the  roll  of  the 
ssa,  unlass  it  becomes  necessary  to  follow  an  outside  course  near  Sitka  instead  of 
threidi ng  some  of  the  narrow  and  intricate  passages.  We  look  westward  over  the 
broad  expanse  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  vessel  soon  passes  from  Queen  Charlotte's 
Sound  under  the  lee  of  Calvert  Island,  and  enters  the  landlocked  channel  of  Fitzhugh 
Sound. .  Hvire  again  we  have  superb  scenery  on  either  side,  the  mountains  of  Calvert 
Island  culminating  in  an  exceedingly  sharp  peak  known  as  Mount  Buxton  (3,430  feet), 
theretrosoective  view  of  which  is  fine.     The  soundings  for  the  most  part  indicate  very 

61 


deep  water.  As  we  approach  the  northern  extremity  of  the  sound,  where  Burke 
Channel  opens  out  on  the  right,  opposite  Hunter  Island,  the  scenery  increases  in 
grandeur,  the  lesser  and  nearer  hills  being  clothed  to  their  summits  with  coniferous 
trees,  while  the  more  distant  elevations  are  covered  with  snow.  From  Fisher  Channel 
the  vessel  turns  sharply  to  the  left  and  enters  the  narrow  Lama  Passage,  which,  far- 
ther on,  itself  makes  an  abrupt  turn  northward.  On  the  shores  of  Campbell  Island,  at 
McLaughlin's  Bay,  is  the  Indian  town  of  Bella-Bella,  and  near  it  are  some  curiously 
adorned  graves  of  the  natives.  To  this  point  the  Indians  come  from  Bella-Kula,  eighty 
miles  up  Burke  Channel,  in  the  mountains,  to  trade.  The  northern  entrance  to  Lama 
Passage,  through  which  we  emerge  into  the  broad  Seaforth  Channel,  with  its  multi- 
tude of  picturesque  islands,  is  extremely  narrow.  More  fine  scenery  awaits  us  at  this 
point,  the  grouping  of  mountains  being  grand  in  the  extreme. 

Another  turn  in  our  remarkably  devious  course,  and  we  are  steaming  northward 
through  Milbank  Sound,  through  whose  broad  entrance  we  again  look  out  to  the  open 
sea.  Islands  and  mountains  are  innumerable,  and  there  is  a  constant  panorama  of 
lovely  scenery.  A  prominent  object  seen  on  the  approach  to  Milbank  Sound  is  Hel- 
met Peak,  on  Lake  Island;  and  another  farther  north,  is  Stripe  Mountain,  on  the 
north  side  of  Dowager  Island.  The  latter  is  2,020  feet  high,  and  is  marked  by  a  great 
land-slip  down  its  southwest  face.  Leaving  Jorkins'  Point,  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  great  Princess  Royal  Island,  to  our  left,  we  contine  our  course  almost  directly 
northward  through  the  long  and  narrow  Finlayson  Channel,  some  twenty-four  miles 
long,  with  an  average  width  of  two  miles.  The  bold  shores  of  this  picturesque  water- 
way are  densely  wooded  to  a  height  of  1,500  feet  or  more,  precipitous  peaks  rising  in 
places  to  the  height  of  nearly  3,000  feet,  with  still  higher  mountains  showing  behind 
with  stripes  and  patches  of  snow.     Waterfalls  of  great  height  here  add  a  new  element 

62 


of  beauty  to  the  scenery.  A  contraction  of  the  channel,  known  for  twenty  miles  as 
Graham  Reach,  and  for  the  next  ten  miles  as  Fraser  Reach,  brings  us  to  the  northern 
end  of  Princess  Royal  Island,  where  we  turn  westward  through  McKay  Reach  into 
Wright  Sound. 

Grenville  Channel,  which  we  enter  from  Wright  Sound,  and  which  lies  between 
Pitt  Island  and  the  mainland,  is  for  fully  fifty  miles  as  straight  as  an  arrow,  and  here 
are  fresh  scenes  of  wonderful  beauty  and  sublimity  —  mountains  several  thousand  feet 
in  height,  which  no  man  has  ever  visited  and  as  yet  unnamed  ;  cascades  which  seem 
to  tumble  from  the  sky  itself,  and  densely  wooded  shores  where  solitude  reis^ns 
supreme.  Some  of  the  distant  hills  seen  through  the  openings  are  seamed  by  glaciers 
and  avalanches.  From  an  expansion  of  this  channel  we  pass  through  a  narrow  strait 
known  as  Arthur  Passage,  which  has  Kennedy  Island  on  the  right,  and  the  large  Porcher 
Island  on  the  left.  There  are  many  fine  mountain  peaks  on  both  islands,  one  on  Ken- 
nedy Island  gaining  an  elevation  of  2,765  feet.  Just  above  Kennedy  Island  the  Skeena 
River  enters  from  the  east.  We  soon  reach  the  broad  waters  of  Chatham  Sound 
through  Malacca  Passage,  and  for  some  distance  course  along  the  shores  of  the  Tsinip- 
sean  Peninsula,  passing  both  Old  Metlakahtla, —  the  scene  of  Mr.  William  Duncan's 
early  labors,  successes,  and  struggles, —  and  Port  Simpson,  an  important  post  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  established  as  early  as  1831,  on  the  right.  The  Tsimpsean 
Peninsula  is  thirty-two  miles  in  length,  and,  but  for  a  narrow  neck  of  land  betvvern  the 
Skeena  and  Work  Channel,  would  be  an  island.  It  takes  its  name  from  the  tril-e  of 
Indians  inhabiting  it.  These  were  until  recent  years  the  mortal  enemies  of  the  Ilai- 
das,  who  live  on  the  Queen  Charlotte  Islands  and  in  the  Prince  of  Wales  Archipelago, 
the  former  being  on  the  British,  and  the  latter  on  the  American,  side  of  the  line.  It 
was  mainly  from  this  tribe  that  Mr.  Duncan  gained  his  converts.  In  1887  Mr.  Dun- 
63 


can  and  about  600  of  the  Indians  removed  from  Old  Metlakahtla  to  Annette  Island  in 
the  Alexandrian  Archipelago,  on  the  American  side,  to  save  themselves  from  further 
annoyance  at  the  hands  of  the  Church  of  England;  while  Bishop  Ridley  continued  in 
possession  of  the  old  settlement  with  about  120  natives,  who  chose  to  remain  rather 
than  leave  their  old  home.  The  church  at  Old  Metlakahtla,  now  a  cathedral,  built  by 
the  Indians  themselves,  like  everything  else  about  the  village,  under  Mr.  Duncan's 
direction,  is,  by  the  by,  the  largest  place  of  worship  in  all  British  Columbia. 

Continuing  northward  through  Chatham  Sound,  there  are  many  fine  views  of  dis- 
tant mountain  ranges,  one  of  which,  lying  back  of  Port  Simpson,  culminates  in  the 
massive  Mount  McNeill  {4,300  feet). 

Alaska. 

Leaving  the  picturesque  Portland  Inlet  on  our  right,  into  which  enter  the  Nass  River, 
Observatory  Inlet,  and  the  far-reaching  Portland  Canal,  we  soon  cross,  in  latitude  54 
degrees,  40  minutes,  the  boundary  line  between  British  Columbia  and  Alaska. 

Before  proceeding  farther  on  our  journey,  let  us  examine  into  the  extent  and  physi- 
cal condition  of  our  northernmost  and  westernmost  possession, —  the  land  we  have 
crossed  a  continent  to  see, —  for  all  we  have  yet  viewed  is  only  preparatory  to  Alaska. 

ThaA  the  area  of  Alaska  is  vast,  is  a  well-known  fact ;  but  few  persons  who  are  not 
versed  in  statistics  realize  that  it  is  nearly  one-sixth  as  large  as  the  entire  United 
States,  and  more  than  one-seventh  as  large  as  the  whole  of  Europe.  It  exceeds  in 
domain  three  of  the  largest  States  of  our  Union,  — Texas,  California,  and  Montana, — 
or  all  that  portion  of  the  United  States  lying  east  of  the  Mississippi  River  and  north 
of  Georgia  and  the  Carolinas.    England,  Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales,  together  with 

64 


Prussia,  Spain,  and  Italy,  might  all  be  placed  within  its  borders,  with  an  area  to  spare 
that  would  measure  within  twenty-eight  square  miles  of  the  territory  of  Switzerland ; 
for  Alaska  covers  no  less  than  580,107  square  miles.  The  islands  upon  its  coast  have 
an  area  of  31,205  square  miles,  or  nearly  as  much  as  the,State  of  Maine.  The  Alexan- 
der Archipelago,  lying  north  of  the  British  Columbian  boundary  line  and  along  South- 
ern Alaska,  of  itself  contains  several  thousand  islands.  The  Aleutian  Chain  has  an 
area  of  6,391  square  miles.  The  general  coast  line  of  the  Territory  is  4,750  miles  in 
extent,  or  within  less  than  a  thousand  miles  of  all  the  rest  of  our  sea  line  on  the 
Atlantic,  the  Pacific,  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  put  together.  Inclusive  of  islands,  bays, 
rivers,  etc.,  to  the  head  of  tide  water,  Alaska  figures  up  26,376  miles  of  shore  line. 
The  island  of  Attn,  the  farthest  of  the  Aleutian  Chain,  is  as  far  west  of  San  Fran- 
cisco as  Bangor  is  east  of  it,  and  in  fact  2,090  miles  west  of  Sitka.  It  is  as  far  from 
the  northern  to  the  southern  point  of  Alaska  as  from  Maine  to  Florida,  and  as  far  from 
its  eastern  boundary  to  its  westernmost  as  from  Washington  to  California.  It  con- 
tains in  Mount  St.  Elias  the  highest  mountain  on  the  North  American  Continent 
(19,500  feet),  unless  the  unmeasured  Mount  Wrangel,  a  volcano  in  eastern  Central 
Alaska,  at  the  forks  of  Copper  River,  in  the  Chugatch  Alps,  is  found  to  be  higher,  as 
lately  claimed.  Mount  St.  Pllias  belongs  to  the  third  highest  range  in  the  world.  Its 
great  river,  the  Yukon,  computed  to  be  not  less  than  3,000  miles  long,  is  navigable  for 
a  distance  of  2,000  miles,  and  is  from  one  to  five  miles  in  width  for  1,000  miles,  while 
its  five  mouths  and  the  intervening  deltas  have  a  breadth  of  seventy  miles.  The 
glaciers  surrounding  Mount  St.  Elias  are  estimated  to  be  20,000  square  miles  in 
extent. 

One  of  the  most  popular  errors  extant  about  Alaska  has  reference  to  its  climate. 
The  winters  of  northern  and  interior  Alaska  are  undoubtedly  very  severe  j  but  the 

6s 


coast  south  of  the  Aleutian  Islands  —  the.  whole  of  Southern  Alaska,  in  fact  —  being 
under  the  influence  of  the  Kurisiwo,  or  Black  Current  of  Japan,  possesses  in  reality  a 
mild  climate.  A  record  of  eight  degrees  below  zero  is  the  lowest  that  has  been  regis- 
tered at  Sitka  in  fifty  years,  and  only  four  times  during  that  entire  period  did  the 
mercury  descend  below  the  zero  point.  Fort  Wrangel,  although  farther  south  than 
Sitka,  is  warmer  in  summer  and  colder  in  winter,  because  it  is  farther  removed  from 
the  great  equalizer — the  ocean  current.  The  Queen  Charlotte  Islands,  on  the  other 
hand,  have  a  very  mild  climate. 

The  native  population  of  Alaska,  with  the  exception  of  a  single  tribe, —  the  Tinnehs, 
found  in  the  interior, —  estimated  by  the  census  reports  of  1880  at  something  over 
31,000  altogether,  is  not  of  Indian  origin.  Whether  Mongolian,  Aztec,  or  both, 
remains  to  be  proven.  Persons  who  have  devoted  attention  to  the  subject  have 
found  much  in  the  language,  customs,  and  arts  of  the  Haidas,  the  most  remarkable  of 
these  tribes,  to  support  the  Aztec  theory,  while  there  is  also  much  to  suggest  Japanese 
or  Chinese  origin.  According  to  the  census  reports,  there  are  five  distinct  tribes,  viz. : 
the  Innuit,  or  Esquimaux;  the  Aleuts, inhabiting  the  Aleutian  Islands;  the  Tinnehs  ; 
the  Thlinkets,  of  Southern  Alaska ;  and  the  Haidas.  Those  mostly  seen  by  the  tourists 
are  Thlinkets,  but  at  Wrangel  there  are  likely  to  be  some  Haidas. 

The  United  States  paid  Russia  the  sum  of  $7,200,000  for  the  country  in  1868.  The 
seal  fisheries,  the  monopoly  of  which  has  recently  been  extended  by  the  government 
for  the  second  time,  has  returned  a  good  rate  of  interest  on  this  expenditure.  The 
fisheries  are  valued  at  $3,000,000  a  year,  and  the  gold  production  is  large  and  of  grow- 
ing importance.  So  far  from  being  a  barren,  bleak,  untenantable  country,  as  the 
opponents  of  the  purchase  scheme  so  strongly  contended,  Alaska  is  likely  to  become 
one  of  the  richest  parts  of  our  national  domain. 

66 


Along  the  Alaskan  Coast. 
In  entering  Alaska  from  British  Columbian  waters,  the  voyager  crosses  Dixon 
Entrance,  as  the  channel  north  of  Dmidas  Islands,  and  between  Prince  of  Wales  and 
Queen  Charlotte  Islands,  is  called.  One  of  the  first  points  of  land  seen  jutting  into 
American  waters  is  Cape  Fox,  so  named  by  Vancouver.  Near  here,  at  Fort  Tongas, 
the  United  Slates  formerly  maintained  a  military  post,  and  later  a  custom  house,  but 
both  have  been  given  up.  The,  situation  at  Fort  Tongas  renders  rain  very  frequent, 
and  the  excessive  rain-fall  of  ii8  inches  is  said  to  have  been  recorded  in  a  single  year. 
From  Dixon  Entrance  we  course  northward  through  Clarence  Strait,  which  is  over 
loo  miles  long  and  nowhere  less  than  four  miles  in  width.  We  are  now  within  that 
remarkable  geographical  area  known  as  the  Alexander  Archipelago,  a  bewildering 
collection  of  mountain-studded  islands,  rocks,  straits,  inlets,  and  passages,  as  yet  but 
partially  explored.  Throughout  the  whole  of  Clarence  Strait  we  have  the  great  Prince 
of  Wales  Island  on  the  west.  At  Port  Chester,  on  Annette  Island,  which  is  one  of 
the  Gravina group,  Mr.  Duncan  has  founded  the  new  Metlakahtla,  and  is  rapidly  build- 
ing up  a  substantial  town,  with  a  church,  schools,  and  self-supporting  industrial  estab- 
lishments. North  of  the  Gravina  group  lies  Revilla  Gigedo  Island,  with  its  varied 
and  picturesque  shores;  while  upon  the  left  Casaan  Bay  is  an  indentation  of  Prince  of 
Wales  Island.  The  several  islands  are  mountainous,  and  the  views  at  all  points  are 
exceedingly  fine. 

Fort    Wrangel. 

After  passing  Etoline,  Zarembo,  and  some  lesser  islands,  and  emerging  from 
Clarence  Strait,  we  reach  Fort  Wrangel,  an  old  Russian  settlement  that  stands  at  the 
head  of  Wrangel  Island,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Stikine  River,  one  of  the  water- 
ways that  lead  to  the  Cassiar  mining  region  in  the  interior  of  British  Columbia.     The 

67 


place  has  lost  its  old  importance,  and  is  given  over  chiefly  to  the  Stikine  tribe,  a  branch 
of  the  Thlinket  race,  but  is  interesting  to  the  stranger  as  possessing  the  best  display 
of  totem  poles  he  is  likely  to  see.  The  totem  pole  is  a  sort  of  ancestral  emblem 
formerly  held  in  high  esteem,  but  fast  disappearing.  The  natives  are  divided  into 
families,  or  clans,  of  which  the  Raven,  the  Wolf,  the  Whale,  and  the  Eagle  are  the 
chief  representatives,  and,  as  tradition  relates,  the  progenitors.  Thus  the  represen- 
tation of  these  animals  or  birds,  with  their  commingling  in  case  of  intermarriages, 
becomes  a  sort  of  family  crest.  United  with  the  rude  carvings  of  heads,  various  strik- 
ing events  in  the  career  of  the  family  are  sometimes  depicted.  The  poles  are  from 
twenty  to  sixty  feet  in  height,  and  from  two  to  five  feet  in  diameter,  the  carving  being 
in  front,  while  the  rear  portion  is  hollowed  out  to  make  them  light  enough  to  erect. 
These  carved  emblems  are  placed  in  front  of  the  house;  and  in  some  of  the  totem 
poles  seen  among  the  Haidas,  where  the  oldest  and  best-executed  specimens  are  found, 
a  doorway  was  cut  through  the  trunk  of  the  totem  for  ingress  and  egress.  It  was  also 
customary  to  ornament  the  top  with  a  figure  wearing  a  Tyhee  hat,  in  case  the  house- 
holder was  a  chief,  and  upon  this  would  be  cut  a  series  of  rings,  corresponding  with 
the  number  of  "pot-latches"  (a  feast  with  gifts)  with  which  the  inmate  had  honored 
his  friends.  The  totem  poles  seen  at  Wrangel  are  interesting  specimens,  though  not 
of  the  highest  order  of  totem  carving.  The  natives  generally  carve  their  household 
implements,  and  even  their  paddles  and  wooden-mounted  fish-hooks,  into  hideous 
shapes.  This  is  true  especially  of  the  Haidas,  who  are  also  expert  workers  in  silver. 
Silver  bracelets  and  bangles,  carved  horn  spoons  (now  becoming  rare),  Chilkaht 
blankets,  and  black  stone  carvings  (from  Skidegate,  on  the  Queen  Charlotte  Islands) 
are  the  curios  mostly  sought  after  by  tourists  throughout  Alaska  and  at  British 
Columbian  ports.     The  spoons  are  made  from  the  horn  of  the  mountain  goat. 

68 


Another  quaint  relic  is  the  curiously  carved  rattles  of  the  shamans  or  medicine-men. 
In  addition  to  the  totem  poles  in  front  of  the  habitations  at  Wrangel,  there  were  some 
curiously  marked  graves,  one  being  surmounted  by  a  huge  carving  of  a  wolf.  This 
has  lately  been  removed  from  its  former  site  to  another  part  of  the  village,  near  the 
saw  mill.  Some  of  the  dwellings  at  Wrangel  have  two  totem  poles,  one  representing 
the  male  side  and  the  other  the  female  side  of  the  house.  Indeed,  "women's  rights  " 
prevail  among  the  Alaskans  to  an  extent  that  gives  the  mother  the  prominent  place  on 
the  totem  instead  of  the  father.  In  one  instance  a  pole  is  surmounted  by  the  image  of 
a  bear,  while  no  other  carving  is  shown  upon  the  column  except  the  footprints  of  the 
animal,  made  apparently  while  he  climbed  to  his  present  eminence. 

The  Alaskans  have  many  strange  customs,  one  of  which  is  for  the  young  women  to 
besmear  their  faces  with  a  hideous  black  paint,  which  is  said  to  be  put  on  to  preserve 
their  complexions.  Another  is  the  wearing  of  the  labrette,  a  silver,  ivory,  bone,  or 
wooden  ornament  that  is  thrust  through  the  under  lip.  A  Thlinket  woman  is  not 
always  an  object  of  beauty  under  favoring  circumstances,  and  certainly  a  blackened 
face  and  a  labrette  do  not  serve  to  make  her  look  anywise  prettier. 

There  are  at  Wrangel  a  flourishing  school  and  mission. 

Northward  from  Fort  Wrangel. 

Resuming  our  voyage,  we  turn  westward  from  Fort  Wrangel,  and,  entering  Wrangel 
Narrows,  steam  northward  and  out  through  the  mouth  of  Souchoi  Channel  into  Prince 
Frederick's  Sound.  On  emerging  from  the  Narrows  new  visions  of  grandeur  await 
our  wondering  gaze.  A  range  of  high  mountains  is  seen  upon  the  opposite  shore, 
strongly  marked  in  black  and  white  patches  of  rock  and  snow.  From  one  of  the 
elevations  rises  a  remarkable  monolith  called  the  Devil's  Thumb.     In  one  place  a 

69 


huge  glacier,  the  blue  ice  succeeding  the  pure  white  of  the  snow  fields,  pours  its  frozen 
flood  nearly  down  to  the  sea.  The  glacier  has  been  named  in  honor  of  the  late  Car- 
lisle Patterson,  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey.  As  we  sail  nearer  and  beyond, 
we  see  that  it  comes  transversely  from  the  mountains,  turning  a  corner  to  reach  its  lower 
slopes;  while  at  one  point  a  great  mass  seems  to  overhang  from  the  mountain  side. 
Another  great  glacier  succeeds  this  one,  with  great  prongs  running  back  among  the 
peaks,  and  then  a  third.  The  distant  mountain  tops,  when  viewed  under  varying 
effects  of  shadow  and  sunshine,  or  under  the  flooding  golden  sheen  of  a  sunset,  pre- 
sent no  end  of  entrancing  pictures. 

Leaving  Prince  Frederick's  Sound,  we  sail  northward  through  Stephen's  Passage, 
which  has  for  the  greater  part  the  mainland,  on  the  right,  and  Admiralty  Island,  on  the 
left,  as  its  boundaries. 

Taku  Inlet  and  its  Glaciers. 

Meanwhile  we  pass  Holkham  Bay,  where,  in  1876,  the  first  placer  mining  in  Alaska 
was  begun,  and  Taku  Inlet,  a  great  fiord  entering  from  the  east,  where  there  are 
glaciers  running  down  to  the  water's  edge,  evidences  of  which  are  seen  in  floating 
masses  of  ice  —  miniature  icebergs.  Captain  Carroll  is  accustomed  to  enter  Taku 
Inlet,  and  to  obtain  a  supply  of  ice  for  the  ship  at  first  hands.  The  glacier  at  the 
head  of  the  inlet  is  magnificent,  extending  across  between  two  hills  with  a  perpen- 
dicular wall  of  ice  upwards  of  100  feet  high.  The  ice  appears  singularly  pure  and 
free  from  earth  and  stones,  both  the  masses  of  ice  which  are  floating  about,  and  the 
great  crystal  mass  that  forces  its  way  into  the  sea,  sparkling  in  the  sunlight  as  if  encrusted 
with  myriads  of  gems.  The  spectacle  here  presented  is  hardly  inferior  to  that  of  the 
Muir  Glacier  farther  north. 

70 


Juneau  and  the  Gold  Mines  on  Douglas  Island. 

Leaving  Taku  Inlet  to  the  right,  we  ascend  Gastineaux  Channel,  a  river-like  body  of 
water  that  separates  the  mainland  from  Douglas  Island,  and  soon  reach  the  mining 
town  of  Juneau,  the  most  populous  settlement  in  all  Alaska.  Here,  on  a  narrow  strip 
of  land,  at  the  foot  of  a  deep  ravine  flanked  by  precipitous  mountains,  is  a  cluster  of 
white  houses.  Half  a  mile  away,  and  reached  by  a  muddy  foot  path,  is  an  Auk  village. 
Beyond  the  village  is  a  native  burial-place.  A  few  miles  back  of  Juneau,  up  the 
narrow  and  picturesque  ravine  or  gulch,  lies  the  Silver  Bow  mining  basin;  and  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  narrow  channel,  at  the  foot  of  the  heights,  are  the  buildings  con- 
nected with  the  famous  Treadwell  gold  mine.  This  settlement  dates  back  only  to  Oct. 
I,  1880,  when  Joseph  Juneau  and  Richard  Harris,  two  mining  prospectors,  camped 
upon  its  site.  The  place  was  named  Harrisburg,  after  one  of  the  prospectors,  and  the 
region  was  denominated  the  Juneau  district,  in  honor  of  the  other.  Notwithstanding 
this  mixed  nomenclature,  the  naval  officers  made  the  muddle  the  deeper  by  naming  the 
harbor  in  honor  of  Commander  Rockwell,  of  the  United  States  steamer  "Jamestown.*' 
Finally,  in  1882,  the  miners  decided  that  the  town  should  be  called  Juneau,  and  Juneau 
it  remains. 

There  are  numerous  shops  about  the  place,  and  the  pursuit  of  curios  is  made  a 
pastime  by  the  tourists.  Natives  from  the  Chilkaht  country  frequently  come  as  far 
south  as  here ;  and  the  celebrated  Chilkaht  dancing  blankets,  gradually  becoming  very 
rare,  are  likely  to  be  seen,  with  furs,  carvings,  and  silver  ornaments.  An  excellent 
weekly  paper,  \.\\q /uneati  Mining  Record,  is  published  here,  and  there  is  also  a  flourish- 
ing mission  school.  The  surroundings  of  Juneau  are  very  picturesque.  Both  shores 
are  densely  wooded,  and  it  is  amazing  to  see  how  tenacious  of  life  are  the  firs  and 
cedars  which  find  root  on  slopes  but  slightly  removed  from  the  perpendicular.     Here, 

71 


as  elsewhere,  there  is  a  rich  and  tangled  mass  of  undergrowth.  Cascades  —  some  of 
which  on  Douglas  Island  are  of  large  extent  —  pour  down  the  mountain-sides,  ming- 
ling their  roaring  floods  with  the  waters  of  the  sea. 

We  are  likely  to  next  visit  the  Treadwell  mine,  across  on  Douglas  Island.  Here  a 
crushing  mill  of  240  stamps — the  largest  in  the  world  —  is  in  operation,  and  the  out- 
put is  said  to  reach  $150,000  per  month.  The  ore  is  of  low  grade  —from  $4.  to  $g 
per  ton  —  but  it  is  practically  inexhaustible,  and  is  so  economically  worked  that 
the  profits  are  necessarily  large.  The  mine  itself  is  on  the  mountain-side,  and  has 
been  worked  largely  as  an  open  quarry.  Operations  were  begun  in  real  earnest  at  this 
mine  in  July,  1885,  since  which  time  there  have  been  extensive  improvements  and 
enlargements. 

There  are  other  valuable  claims  on  Douglas  Island  and  near  Juneau.  Ex-Governor 
Swineford,  ia  one  of  his  last  reports,  expresses  the  belief  that  this  region  will  become 
one  of  the  most  prolific  gold  fields  in  the  world.  At  the  Treadwell  mine  the  ore 
actually  in  sight  is  estimated  to  be  worth  five  times  the  sum  the  United  States  paid 
for  the  entire  Territory. 

Northward  Again  and  up  Lynn  Canal. 

As  Gastineaux  Channel  has  not  been  fully  surveyed  above  Juneau,  our  steamer 
returns  to  Stephen's  Passage  before  proceeding  northward.  We  soon  reach  Lynn 
Canal,  a  remarkable  fiord  that  extends  sixty  miles  directly  north  into  the  mountains, 
there  terminating  in  two  forks,  named  respectively  the  Chilkaht  and  Chilkoot  Inlets. 
The  scenery  surpasses  in  grandeur  all  that  has  been  seen  in  more  southern  latitudes. 
High  mountains  line  the  shores,  and  no  less  than  nineteen  great  glaciers  pour  their 
icy  floods  down  their  sides.     Two   of   these,  the  Eagle  Glacier   and  the   Davidson 

72 


Glacier  —  the  latter  on  the  west  near  the  head  of  the  channel  —  are  especially  notable. 
The  Davidson  Glacier  was  so  named  in  honor  of  Professor  George  Davidson,  the 
astronomer,  who  explored  its  lower  slopes  in  his  visits  to  the  Chilkaht  country  in 
1867  and  1869.  As  we  sail  in  front,  the  lower  slopes  of  the  glacier  are  screened  by  a 
growth  of  trees 'that  has  sprung  up  on  its  terminal  moraine.  Above  the  trees  it  is 
seen  pouring  down  through  a  rocky  gorge,  below  which  it  spreads  out  like  a  fan  to 
'  the  breadth  of  three  miles.  There  is,  in  fact,  a  glacier  in  almost  every  ravine  ;  and 
as  the  supply  of  vegetation  is  greatly  lessened,  the  really  Arctic  appearance  of  the 
landscape  becomes  very  marked. 

At  Pyramid  Harbor,  which  is  near  one  of  the  Chilkaht  villages,  from  which  miners 
depart  for  the  Yukon  country,  is  the  northernmost  point  reached  by  the  Alaska 
steamers;  viz.,  latitude  59  degrees,  10  minutes,  and  36  seconds.  The  summer  days  in 
these  latitudes  are  notably  long,  there  being  only  two  or  three  hours  of  appreciable 
darkness. 

The  Great  Muir  Glacier,  in  Glacier  Bay. 

We  now  turn  our  attention  to  the  crowning  glory  of  this  veritable  wonderland  — 
the  great  Muir  Glacier,  in  Glacier  Bay.  This  we  reach  by  retracing  our  way  south, 
ward  through  Lynn  Canal  to  the  point  where  its  waters  mingle  with  those  of  Cross 
Sound  or  Icy  Strait,  from  whence  we  turn  northwestward  into  Glacier  Bay,  an  indenta- 
tion which  extends  about  thirty  miles  in  that  direction,  with  a  breadth  of  from  eight 
to  twelve  miles  in  its  lower  reach,  and  narrowing  to  about  three  miles  at  its  upper  end^ 
where  seven  enormous  glaciers  descend  to  its  waters.  The  peninsula  enclosed  by 
Glacier  Bay,  Cross  Sound,  and  the  Pacific  Ocean,  is  from  thirty  to  forty  miles  wide, 
and  contains  numerous  lofty  mountains,  including  Mounts  Crillon  (15,900  feet),  Fair- 
weather  (15,500  feet),   Lituya  (10,000  feet),  D'Agelet  (9,000  feet),  and  La  Perouse 

73 


(ii,300  feet).  These  form  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Mount  St.  Elias  Alps.  All 
these  noble  summits  are  seen  from  the  steamer's  deck  while  ascending  Glacier  Bay, 
together  with  the  picturesque  White  Mountains,  which  line  the  east,  between  Glacier 
Bay  and  Lynn  Canal;  but  Mount  St.  Elias  itself  is  too  far  north  to  be  visible.  Van- 
couver found  a  wall  of  ice  extending  across  the  mouth  of  the  bay  in  1794,  and  it  was 
not  until  1880  that  Glacier  Bay  occupied  a  place  on  any  printed  map.  Near  the  mouth 
of  the  bay  is  a  group  of  low  islands  named  after  Commander  Beardslee,  of  the  United 
States  Navy,  and  composed  of  loose  material,  evidently  glacial  debris.  Willoughby 
Island,  near  the  middle  of  the  bay,  is  a  bare  rock,  about  two  miles  long  and  1,500  feet 
high,  showing  glacial  furrows  and  polished  surfaces  from  the  bottom  to  the  top.  The 
Muir  Glacier  enters  an  inlet  of  the  same  name,  near  the  head  of  the  bay,  in  latitude  58 
degrees,  50  minutes  north,  and  longitude  136  degrees,  40  minutes  west  of  Greenwich. 
It  was  named  for  Professor  John  Muir,  the  Pacific  Coast  geologist,  who  in  1879  was, 
with  Rev.  S.  Hall  Young,  of  Fort  Wrangd,  the  first  to  explore  the  glacier.  It  was 
not  until  1883  ^^^^  Captain  Carroll  began  bringing  tourists  hither. 

The  glacier  enters  the  sea  with  a  gigantic  front  two  or  three  hundred  feet  above  the 
water,  and  a  mile  wide.  Imagine  a  wall  of  blue  ice,  splintered  into  columns,  spires, 
and  huge  crystal  masses,  with  grottoes,  crevices,  and  recesses,  higher  than  Bunker 
Plill  Monument,  and  of  such  far-reaching  extent !  It  is  a  spectacle  that  is  strangely 
beautiful  in  its  variety  of  form  and  depth  of  color,  and  at  the  same  time  awful  in  its 
grandeur  and  suggestion  of  power.  And  not  alone  is  the  sight  awe-inspiring.  The 
ice  mountain  is  almost  constantly  breaking  to  pieces  with  sounds  that  resemble  the 
discharge  of  heavy  guns  or  the  reverberations  of  thunder.  At  times  an  almost  deafen- 
ing report  is  heard,  or  a  succession  of  them,  like  the  belching  of  a  whole  park  of  artil- 
lery, when  no  outward  effect  is  seen.     It  is  the  breaking  apart  of  great  masses  of  ice 

74 


within  the  glacier.  Then  some  huge  berg  topples  over,  with  a  roar  and  gigantic  plash 
that  is  heard  and  felt  for  miles,  the  waters  being  thrown  aloft  in  clouds  of  spray.  A 
great  pinnacle  of  ice  is  seen  bobbing  about  in  a  wicked  fashion,  perchance  turning  a 
somersault  in  the  flood  before  it  settles  down  to  battle  for  life  with  the  sun  and  the 
elements  on  its  seaward  cruise.  The  waves  created  by  all  this  terrible  commotion  even 
rock  the  huge  steamer,  and  wash  the  shores  miles  away.  There  is  scarcely  an  inter- 
val of  ten  minutes  in  the  day  or  night  without  some  exhibition  of  this  kind.  There 
are  mountains  each  side  of  the  glacier,  the  ones  upon  the  right  or  east  shore  being 
more  elevated.  High  up  on  the  bare  walls  are  seen  the  scoriated  and  polished  surfaces 
produced  by  glacial  action,  indicating  that  once  the  ice  stream  was  thousands  of  feet 
thick.  The  present  glacier  is  retrograding  quite  rapidly,  as  may  be  seen  by  many  evi- 
dences of  its  former  extent,  as  well  as  by  the  concurrent  testimony  of  earlier  visitors. 
On  either  side  is  a  moraine  half  a  mile  wide,  furrowed  and  slashed  by  old  glacial 
streams,  which  have  given  place  to  others  higher  up  the  defile  as  the  glacier  recedes. 
On  the  west  side  the  stumps  of  an  ancient  forest,  supposed  to  be  pre-glacial,  have  been 
uncovered.  Notwithstanding  the  contiguity  of  the  ice  and  the  generally  frigid  sur- 
roundings, blue  bells  and  other  flowers  are  found  blooming.  In  the  centre  of  the  ice 
stream,  about  two  miles  from  its  snout,  is  an  island  of  rock,  the  summit  of  some  peak 
the  great  glacier  mill  has  not  yet  ground  down. 

Professor  George  Frederick  Wright,  who  has  a  world-wide  fame  on  account  of  his 
investigations  of  ancient  glacial  action,  devoted  a  month's  study  to  the  Muir  Glacier 
in  1886,  and  made  some  interesting  experiments  to  determine  its  rapidity  of  motion. 
The  main  body  of  the  glacier,  says  Professor  Wright,  occupies  a  vast  amphitheatre, 
with  diameters  ranging  from  thirty  to  forty  miles.  Nine  main  streams  of  ice  unite  to 
form  the  grand  trunk  of  the  glacier.     These  branches  come  from  every  direction  north 

75 


of  the  east  and  west  line  across  the  mouth  of  the  glacier;  and  no  less  than  seventeen 
sub-branches  can  be  seen  coming  in  to  join  the  main  streams  from  the  mountains  near 
the  rim  of  the  amphitheatre,  making  twenty-six  in  all.  The  width  of  the  ice  where  the 
glacier  breaks  through  between  the  mountains  is  10,664  feet;  but  the  water  front,  as 
previously  remarked,  is  only  a  mile  wide.  The  central  part  of  the  mass  moves  more 
rapidly  than  the  sides,  and  formerly  extended  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  the 
corners.  It  should  be  said  that  the  front  frequently  changes  its  aspect,  in  consequence 
of  the  breaking  away  of  huge  masses,  and  sometimes  the  sides  project  beyond  the 
centre  section.  The  depth  of  the  water  300  yards  south  of  the  ice  front,  according  to 
Captain  Hunter,  is  516  feet  near  the  middle  of  the  channel.  In  recent  years  a  still 
greater  depth  has  been  noted  by  Captain  Carroll,  a  short  distance  in  front  of  the 
glacier.  Professor  Wright's  measurements  showed  the  front  to  be  250  feet  high  at  the 
extremity  of  the  projecting  angle.  Gleaming  masses  of  crystal,  veritable  icebergs, 
wrenched  from  the  descending  glacier,  float  about  the  bay,  driven  hither  and  thither 
by  wind  and  tide.  As  from  five-eighths  to  seven-eighths  of  the  bulk  of  an  iceberg  are 
supposed  to  be  beneath  the  surface,  some  of  these  bergs  must  be  of  huge  proportions. 
The  measurements  made  by  Professor  Wright  and  his  companions,  to  determine  the 
rate  of  motion,  developed  some  interesting  facts.  In  this  connection  it  should  be 
remembered  that  the  calculations  made  as  to  the  rapidity  of  glacial  movement  by  De 
Saussure,  Agassiz,  Tyndall,  and  others  have  been  based  upon  measurements  of  the 
Swiss  glaciers,  which  are  small  and  shallow,  when  compared  with  the  enormous  ice 
streams  of  Alaska,  Greenland,  and  the  polar  seas.  Observations  made  upon  different 
sections  of  the  Muir  Glacier  led  Professor  Wright  to  these  conclusions:  That  a 
stream  of  ice,  presenting  a  cross-section  of  about  5,000,000  square  feet  (5,000  feet  wide 
by  about  1,000  feet  deep),  is  entering  the  inlet  at  an  average  rate  of  forty  feet  per  day 

76 


(seventy  feet  in  the  centre,  and  ten  feet  near  the  margin  of  movement),  making  about 
200,000,000  cubic  feet  per  day  during  the  month  of  August. 

In  the  summer  of  1890  Professor  Reed,  of  the  Case  School  of  Applied  Science, 
Cleveland,  O.,  made  an  elaborate  series  of  observations,  and  was  led  to  different 
conclusions.  His  opinion  is  that  the  glacier  flows  at  a  much  less  rapid  rate  than 
Professor  Wright's  figures  would  indicate. 

The  steamer  generally  approaches  the  glacier  front  to  within  a  safe  distance,  near 
enough,  however,  for  a  close  examination  of  its  formidable  wall,  and  there  is  also  time 
for  a  landmg  and  a  limited  exploration  of  its  surface  and  surroundings. 

Sitka. 

Leaving  Glacier  Bay  with  reluctance,  we  shall  steam  away  for  Sitka,  the  capital  of 
Alaska.  There  are  two  routes  thither  —  one  through  Cross  Sound,  or  Icy  Strait, 
and  the  other  through  Peril  Strait,  or  Pogibshi  Channel.  Peril  Strait  lies  between 
Chichagoff  and  Baranoff  Lslands.  Sitka  is  on  the  western  shore  of  the  latter,  inside 
Kruzoff  Island.  It  is  very  picturesquely  situated,  with  a  noble  background  of 
mountains,  while  the  bay  is  dotted  with  scores  of  beautiful  green  islands.  Across  the 
bay  on  Kruzoff  Island  is  the  extinct  volcano,  Mount  Edgecumbe,  2,800  feet  in  eleva- 
tion. Mount  Verstovaia  rises  sentinel  over  the  town,  to  a  height  of  3,212  feet.  Mount 
Edgecumbe  (and  also  Mount  Fairweather)  received  its  name  from  the  intrepid  navi- 
gator. Captain  James  Cook,  who  visited  these  shores  in  May,  1778,  in  the  course  of 
his  third  and  last  voyage  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Sitka  was  founded  in  1804  by  Baron 
Baranoff,  the  first  Russian  governor  of  Russian  America,  four  years  after  his  original 
settlement  at  Starr i  Gavan  Bay — a  few  miles  north  of  the  present  site  —  had  been 
destroyed  by  the  natives,  in  the  first  year  of  its  existence.     There  are  many  reminders 

11 


of  Russian  occupation,  the  chief  of  which  are  the  old  Baranoff  Castle  —  a  plain-looking 
block  edifice,  which  stands  on  Katalan's  Rock,  near  the  water  —  and  the  Greek  Church. 
The  castle  is  the  third  edifice  erected  on  the  same  site  by  the  Russians,  the  first 
having  been  burned,  and  the  second  destroyed  by  an  earthquake.  Several  other  large 
structures,  built  during  Russian  occupancy,  remain,  and  serve  for  barracks,  court  rooms, 
etc.  The  principal  street  of  the  town,  and  almost  its  only  one,  extends  from  the 
wharf  to  the  Greek  Church,  and  then,  bending  around  the  corner  of  that  notable 
edifice,  winds  along  the  beach  to  the  Presbyterian  Mission. 

If  the  visitor  continues  his  walk  in  that  direction,  he  will  discover  a  romantic  path 
through  the  woods  by  Indian  River.  A  little  square  at  the  left  of  the  main  street  near 
the  water  —  beyond  which  is  the  modest  residence  of  the  governor  of  the  Territory, — 
was  once  a  Russian  shipyard.  Stretching  along  the  shore  to  the  left  is  the  native  town 
or  rancherie^  where  800  or  i,opo  Sitkans  live  in  the  peculiar  kind  of  frame  houses  com- 
mon to  other  parts  of  Southern  Alaska.  Nothing  in  the  form  of  totem  poles  is  seen  here, 
although  the  Sitkans,  once  a  powerful,  insolent,  and  really  dangerous  tribe,  have  many 
customs  common  to  other  Alaskan  peoples.  A  small  part  of  the  old  stockade  which 
kept  the  natives  without  the  Russian  town  after  prescribed  hours  still  remains, 
although  most  of  the  barricade  was  destroyed  after  the  withdrawal  of  the  American 
troops  in  1877.  On  the  slopes  back  of  the  native  rancherie  are  the  burial-grounds  of 
the  Russians  and  the  Sitkans,  and  the  remains  of  an  old  block  house  that  commanded 
an  angle  of  the  stockade.  Katalan's  Rock  bears  the  name  of  an  ancient  chief  who 
vhad  his  habitation  there.  The  Greek  Church,  with  its  green  roof  and  bulging  spire,  is 
the  most  picturesque  edifice  in  the  town,  and  is  one  of  the  chief  centres  of  attraction. 
It  contains  some  quaint  pictures  on  ivory,  with  settings  of  silver  and  other  metal. 
Although  few  Russians  are  left  in  Alaska,  the  Russian  government  expends  about 

78 


$50>oooayear  in  maintaining  this  church  and  others  at  Kodiak  and  Ounalaska.  In  the 
belfry  is  a  chime  of  six  sweet-toned  bells  brought  from  Moscow.  The  old  Russian 
mill  still  stands  beyond  the  church;  but  the  tea  garden,  clubhouse,  and  race  course 
are  decayed  and  practically  forgotten.  The  Presbyterian  Mission,  established  in  1877 
by  Rev.  Sheldon  Jackson,  D.  D.,  and  Mrs.  A.  R.  McFarland,  and  now  under  the 
charge  of  Rev.  Alonzo  E.  Austin,  is  the  largest  in  Alaska, 

The  Return  Trip. 
Sitka  is  accounted  the  end  of  the  northward  voyage,  although  situated  many  miles 
south  of  Glacier  Bay  and  Pyramid  Harbor.  We  have  yet  nearly  1,000  miles  of  water 
passage  to  accomplish  before  reaching  Victoria,  Port  Townsend,  and  the  other  Puget 
Sound  points.  Our  track  will  be  in  the  main  over  the  same  magnificent  course  we 
have  come,  with  the  omission  of  the  more  northward  portion.  There  will  perhaps  be 
landings  at  several  points,  including  Juneau  and  Fort  Wrangel,  although  this  is  not 
certain,  and  the  trip  will  possess  fresh  interest  from  the  fact  that  much  of  the  scenery 
missed  in  the  night  during  the  northbound  passage  will  now  be  visible.  Even  with 
the  same  grand  scenes  to  gaze  upon  and  nothing  else,  the  experience  would  be 
enchanting;  for  the  grand  panorama  along  the  Alaskan  and  British  Columbian  coast 
is  matchless  in  its  beauty,  variety,  and  true  grandeur.  The  return  will  occupy  five  or 
six  days,  but  the  exact  times  of  arrival  or  departure  cannot  be  predicted  with  any 
degree  of  exactitude  in  a  voyage  of  such  extent.  It  is  expected  that  the  Puget  Sound 
ports  will  be  reached  not  later  than  Friday,  June  16,  and  probably  by  Thursday,  June  15. 

Victoria,  B.  C. 
As  part  of  a  day  will  be  spent  at  Victoria,  the  capital  of  British  Columbia,  there 
will  be  time  to  see  something  of  that  pretty  city.     British  Columbia,   which  extends      I 

79  ! 


from  the  Rocky  Mountains  to 'the  Pacific,  and  from  the  northern  boundary  lines  of 
Washington,  Idaho,  and  Northwestern  Montana  to  Alaska  and  the  Arctic  Ocean, 
comprises  about  350,000  square  miles.  Victoria  is  a  beautiful  city  of  about  15,000 
inhabitants,  charmingly  situated  at  the  southeastern  extremity  of  Vancouver  Island. 
Fort  Victoria,  a  subsidiary  depot  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, —  the  chief  depot  then 
being  at  Fort  Vancouver,  on  the  Columbia  River, —  was  established  in  1843;  and  in 
1848,  at  the  time  of  the  "  Cayuse  War,"  it  became  an  important  position  for  sending 
supplies  to  the  interior.  In  1858,  about  the  time  of  the  gold-mining  excitement  on 
the  Fraser  and  the  Skagit,  New  Georgia  and  New  Caledonia,  as  the  main  coast  and 
interior  had  previously  been  designated,  became  by  royal  edict  British  Columbia,  and 
in  1866  the  colony  of  Vancouver  Island  was  united  therewith.  Fort  Victoria,  mean- 
while, became  the  city  of  Victoria. 

Victoria  presents  many  interesting* features  to  the  stranger.  The  business  avenues 
have  a  substantial  appearance,  and  all  the  streets  are  wide  and  well  kept.  Most  of 
the  dwellings  have  in  front  of  them  or  surrounding  them  pretty  gardens  in  which 
flowers  abound  through  a  large  part  of  the  year.  The  government  buildings,  five  in 
number,  and  built  in  Swiss  style,  comprising  the  Parliament  House,  government 
printing-office,  land  and  works  departments,  government  offices,  messenger's  residence, 
and  the  Provincial  Museum,  occupy  a  prettily  adorned  square  just  across  James's 
Bay.  In  front  of  these  is  a  granite  shaft  erected  to  the  memory  of  Sir  James  Doug- 
las, the  first  governor  of  the  colony.  There  is  a  populous  "  Chinatown,"  and,  mingled 
with  the  Mongolians  on  the  streets,  are  many  Songhish  Indians. 

Port  Townsend. 

After  leaving  Victoria  "  The  Queen"  will  continue  on  to  the  American  ports  on 
Puget  Sound,  the  first  of  which  is  Port  Townsend,  situated  at  the  head  of  the  Strait  of 

80 


Juan  de  Fuca,  and  the  port  of  entry  for  the  whole  Puget  Sound  district.     With  every 

possible  advantage  in  the  way  of  situation  and  climate,  and  with  the  prospect  of  early 

railroad  communication  with  the  rest  of  the  world,  this  place  is  making  very  rapid 

progress. 

Seattle. 

From  Port  Townsend  we  proceed  to  Seattle,  the  remarkable  city  that  has  been  built 
up  on  the  east  shores  of  the  sound, —  twice  built  up,  in  fact, —  nearly  the  entire  busi- 
ness section  of  the  place  having  been  burned  in  June,  1889.  '^^^  ^^^w  Seattle  is  more 
substantial  and  handsomer  than  the  old  one,  and  in  many  ways  a  gratifying  indication 
<lf  the  pluck,  energy,  and  business  enterprise  of  her  citizens.  With  a  population  of 
43,914,  according  to  the  late  census,  against  4,533  i^  1880,  the  city  is  already  one  of 
the  leading  Pacific  Coast  points,  and  its  many  interests  are  constantly  increasing  in 
importance.  Nearly  ^7,000,000  was  expended  in  1889  in  the  erection  of  new  build- 
ings ;  while  in  street  railways,  street  grading,  and  other  public  improvements,  a  further 
sum  was  added,  making  an  aggregate  expenditure  of  $13,547,979  in  a  single  year.  In 
,the  city  and  suburbs,  no  less  than  3,465  buildings  were  constructed.  Some  of  the 
schools,  churches,  and  several  of  the  public  buildings  —  notably  the  County  Court 
House  —  are  imposing  edifices.  Numerous  railway  lines  enter  here,  and  there  are 
also  steamer  connections  with  near  and  distant  points.  The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad 
Company  has  a  line  running  to  Tacoma,  and  there  are  also  several  lines  of  steamboats 
between  the  two  cities.  Seattle  is  charmingly  situated  between  the  waters  of  the 
sound  and  Lake  Washington,  a  body  of  fresh  water  thirty  miles  in  length.  Our  hotel. 
The  Rainier,  has  a  magnificent  prospect  overlooking  the  sound. 

It  may  be  deemed  advisable  to  divide  the  party  for  the  visits  to  Seattle  and  Tacoma. 
Both  cities  will  be  included,  one  section  seeing  Seattle  first  and  the  other  Tacoma. 

81 


Tacoma. 

At  the  head  of  Puget  Sound  lies  another  beautiful  city — Tacoma  —  which  had 
scarcely  an  existence  a  dozen  years  ago.  In  1880  the  number  of  inhabitants  was  1,098. 
In  1890  it  was  35,858.  This  place  derived  much  of  its  early  importance  from  being 
the  terminus  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  which  line,  however,  is  now  connected 
with  all  other  important  points  on  the  Northwest  Pacific  Coast.  Its  manufacturing 
interests  are  large  and  constantly  increasing.  The  city  occupies  a  high  bluff,  over- 
looking the  sound  and  the  Puyallup  Valley,  at  the  head  of  which  stands  the  giant 
snow  peak  of  Mount  Tacoma.  Many  of  the  new  buildings,  including  the  Opera  House 
block,  are  really  magnificent,  and  there  are  also  a  great  number  of  handsome  resi- 
dences. The  buildings  erected  in  a  single  year  (1889)  cost  $5,901,195.  During  our 
visit  to  Tacoma  the  party  will  make  its  headquarters  at  The  Tacoma. 

Over  the   Cascade    Division   of  the    Northern   Pacific   Railroad. 

We  shall  leave  Tacoma  and  Seattle  on  our  homeward  journey,  via  the  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad,  Monday,  June  19.  The  first  part  of  our  trip  will  lie  over  the  pictur- 
esque Cascade  Division  of  this  great  transcontinental  line.  The  section  of  Western 
Washington  traversed  is  mountainous,  and  the  views  are  greatly  diversified.  The 
traveler  first  ascends  the  fruitful  Puyallup  Valley,  the  great  hop-growing  region  of  the 
Pacific  Coast,  where,  in  the  hop-picking  season,  the  strange  sight  is  presented  of  2,000 
or  more  Indians  laboring  in  the  fields,  some  of  the  copper-skinned  workers  coming 
many  hundred  miles  to  gain  employment.  The  great  snow  dome  of  Mount  Tacoma  is 
seen  ahead  of  us,  and  in  varying  aspects  as  we  speed  along,  now  west  of  this  monarch 
of  the  hills,  and  then  north.  At  South  Prairie  and  beyond,  we  are  in  proximity  to  the 
great  coal  fields  of  the  State.     The  ascent  of  the  Green  River  discloses  some  charm- 

82 


ing  caiion  scenery.     At  an  elevation  of  2,809  ^^^^  we  pass  through  the  Stampede  Tun- 
nel, which  has  an  extent  of  9,850  feet  and  is  lighted  by  electricity. 

We  descend  on  the  east  side  of  the  Cascade  range  into  the  broad  valley  of  the 
Yakima  River,  which  is  reached  within  five  miles  of  the  tunnel,  and  followed  for  165 
miles.  This  stream  is  from  200  to  300  feet  wide  for  much  of  the  way,  and  forms  one 
of  the  most  important  tributaries  of  the  Columbia.  EUensburg,  the  county  seat  of 
Kittitas,  is  the  first  town  of  importance  reached  after  crossing  the  mountains,  although 
several  new  places  are  springing  into  existence  in  the  vicinity  of  the  coal  mines. 
EUensburg  is  one  of  the  growing  cities  of  the  young  State,  and,  notwithstanding  its 
devastation  by  fire  in  1889,  is  a  populous  and  handsome  place. 

Eastern   Washington. 

Crossing  the  Columbia  River  near  Pasco,  we  traverse  two  growing  counties  of 
Washington  —  Whitman  and  Spokane.  In  the  latter,  more  especially,  several  impor- 
tant towns  have  come  into  being  along  the  road,  including  Sprague,  Cheney,  and 
Spokane,  the  latter  being  the  only  one  of  the  three  that  had  any  existence  before  the 
railway  was  built.  Cheney  contains  a  handsome  academy,  the  gift  of  Benjamin  P. 
Cheney,  of  Boston,  in  whose  honor  the  town  was  named.  Spokane  is  a  large  and 
flourishing  city,  which,  like  Seattle  and  EUensburg,  has  suffered  a  baptism  of  fire. 
The  place  has  been  rebuilt  in  a  more  substantial  way  than  ever,  and  has  already  taken 
its  stand  among  the  most  enterprising  and  important  cities  of  the  far  West.  Of  its 
20,000  population,  three-quarters  have  been  acquired  in  three  years,  and  19,000  in  five 
years.  Long  lines  of  magnificent  business  blocks  line  the  prmcipal  streets,  and  there 
are  on  every  hand  evidences  of  prosperity  based  in  the  first  instance  on  the  splendid 
water  power. 

83 


Idaho. 

Nineteen  miles  east  of  Spokane  the  boundary  line  between  Washington  and  the 
newest  State  of  the  American  confederation  —  Idaho  —  is  crossed.  The  Northern 
Pacific  Railway  traverses  a  very  narrow  strip  of  the  northern  part  of  the  last-named 
State,  the  distance  from  the  western  border  to  the  eastern  being  about  seventy-eight 
miles  only.  Rounding  the  upper  extremity  of  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille,  the  road  ascends 
Clark*s  Fork,  a  turbulent  stream  which  flows  down  through  a  succession  of  wild 
gorges,  to  the  Bitter  Root  Mountains.  The  new  State  of  Idaho  has  84,229  inhabitants, 
according  to  the  recent  census. 

Montana. 

Near  Clark's  Fork  station  we  pass  out  of  Idaho  and  into  the  new  State  of  Montana, 
which,  with  its  143,776  square  miles,  is  very  nearly  as  large  as  the  great  States  of  New 
York,  Pennsylvania,  and  Illinois  combined.  It  has  more  than  1,000,000  acres  in  excess 
of  the  whole  of  New  England.  There  are  in  Montana  nearly  40,000,000  acres  of 
grazing  lands,  and  16,000,000  acres  which  are  suitable  for  farming,  in  addition  to  its 
vast  wealth  in  mines.  The  railroad  traveler  is  likely  to  declare  that  the  region  is  prac- 
tically treeless,  and  yet  the  State  contains  no  less  than  14,000,000  acres  of  forests,  or 
more  than  are  comprised  in  the  State  of  Michigan.  Montana  was  organized  as  a 
Territory  in  1864,  a  year  after  Idaho  ;  and  until  1880  there  was  not  a  mile  of  railroad 
within  its  borders.  It  was  admitted  to  Statehood  in  1889,  and  in  1890  was  credited 
with  a  population  of  131,769.  Entering  Montana  in  the  extreme  northwestern  corner, 
where  Clark's  Fork  makes  its  way  through  the  Bitter  Root  Mountains,  we  reach 
Heron,  a  town  of  several  hundred  inhabitants  in  the  midst  of  a  forest.  One  hundred 
and  thirty-five  miles  east  of  Heron,  and  fourteen  miles  west  of  Missoula,  the  Coriacan 

84 


Defile  is  reached,  and  the  track  crosses  Marent  Gulch  by  means  of  a  trestle  bridge  866 
feet  long  and  226  feet  high.  A  little  farther  on  are  other  trestle  bridges,  one  of  which 
is  112  feet  high. 

Missoula,  the  county  seat  of  Missoula  county,  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  western 
gateway  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  on  the  north  side  of  Missoula  River,  near  its  junc- 
tion with  the  Bitter  Root  and  the  Hell  Gate.  It  was  formerly  an  isolated  and  remote 
frontier  post,  but  the  railroad  has  made  it  a  stirring  town. 

We  are  now  approaching  the  main  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  although  the 
actual  continental  divide  lies  106  miles  east  of  Missoula.  The  road  follows  up  Hell 
Gate  River,  passing  through  Hell  Gate  Canon,  which,  however,  is  less  of  a  canon  than 
a  valley,  being  from  two  to  three  miles  wide.  We  are  in  the  midst  of  a  placer-mining 
region;  and  the  river,  ordinarily  clear,  is  in  summer  stained  by  the  deposits  of  dirt 
from  the  tributary  streams,  along  which  many  mining-camps  are  located.  Some  of  the 
mines  are  very  rich  ;  and  a  large  amount  of  the  gold  production  of  Montana,  amount- 
ing to  nearly  $9,000,000  annually,  has  come  therefrom.  There  is  some  grand  mountain 
scenery  in  the  vicinity,  the  snow-covered  peaks  of  Mount  Powell  being  promment 
south  of  the  railroad. 

Crossing  the  Rocky  Mountains  at  the  Mullan  Tunnel,  which  has  an  elevation 
of  5,548  feet  above  the  sea,  we  descend  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  great  continental 
divide,  and  approach  Helena.  This  city,  with  a  population  of  about  15,000,  is  situ- 
ated at  the  eastern  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  on  both  sides  of  the  famous 
Last  Chance  Gulch,  which  yielded  over  $10,000,000  worth  of  nuggets  and  gold  dust. 
Helena  contains  many  handsome  buildings,  and  is  the  commercial  and  financial  centre 
of  the  new  State,  as  well  as  its  capital.  Continuing  eastward  from  Helena,  the  road 
passes  through  a  mining  region,  and  forty-two  miles  from  that  city  crosses  the  Mis- 

8s 


souri  River.  It  follows  up  that  stream,  amid  much  wild  scenery,  to  Gallatin  City, 
where  the  three  rivers  forming  the  Missouri — viz.:  the  Gallatin,  Madison,  and  Jeffer- 
son— unite.  We  keep  on  through  the  Gallatin  Valley,  and  120  miles  from  Helena  reach 
Bozeman,  another  flourishing  and  bustling  town.  Ascending  through  Rock  Cafion, 
we  cross  the  Belt  range  of  mountains  at  an  elevation  of  5,572  feet  above  the  sea  level. 
Near  the  summit  the  hills  are  pierced  by  a  tunnel  3,500  feet  in  length.  Livingston,  the 
diverging  point  for  Yellowstone  Park  travelers,  and  a  large  and  growing  town,  will 
be  reached  early  Thusday  morning. 

Up   the   Yellowstone  Valley. 

From  Livingston  a  branch  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  extends  up  the  Yellow- 
stone Valley  to  Cinnabar,  a  distance  of  fifty-one  miles,  and  there  is  a  stage  ride  of  only 
seven  miles  from  thence  to  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs.  The  scenery  along  this  part 
of  the  line  is  bold  and  striking.  We  are  already  amid  the  mountains;  and  at  the 
upper  end  of  Paradise  Valley  the  massive  form  of  Emigrant  Peak,  11,034  feet  in 
height,  becomes  a  prominent  landmark.  The  chief  objects  of  interest  above  this  point 
are  the  Sphinx  and  the  "  Devil's  Slide."  The  latter  consists  of  two  enormous  dikes  of 
trap-rock  on  the  steep  slopes  of  Cinnabar  Mountain. 

The  Yellowstone  National  Park. 

The  reservation  known  as  the  Yellowstone  National  Park,  set  apart  for  public  uses 
by  an  act  of  Congress  passed  in  1872,  originally  covered  a  tract  of  about  sixty-five 
miles  in  length,  from  north  to  south,  and  about  fifty-five  miles  in  width,  from  east  to 
west,  lying  chiefly  in  Northwestern  Wyoming,  and  over-lapping,  to  a  small  extent,  the 
boundary  of  Montana,  on  the  north,  and  of  Idaho,  on  the  west.    This  gave  an  area  of 

86 


about  3,575  square  miles,  a  tract  that  was  nearly  as  large  as  the  States  of  Rhode 
Island  and  Delaware  combined,  and  nearly  half  as  large  as  the  State  of  Massachusetts. 
To  this  was  added  in  1891  a  forest  reservation  of  nearly  2,000  square  miles,  compris- 
ing the  country  adjacent  to  the  former  park  on  the  south  and  east.  Thus  the  area  of 
the  national  reservation  has  been  extended  eight  miles  south  and  about  twenty-four 
miles  east.  The  name  "  park"  is  perhaps  misleading,  as  it  is  exceedingly  diversified, 
containing  numerous  parks,  or  open  tracts,  as  the  name  '*  park  "  has  been  bestowed 
in  the  mountain  sections  of  Colorado,  besides  high  mountains  and  beautiful  lakes.  The 
Rocky  Mountain  chain  crosses  the  southwestern  portion  in  an  irregular  line,  leaving 
by  far  the  greater  expanse  on  the  eastern  side.  The  lowest  elevation  of  any  of  the 
narrow  valleys  is  6,000  feet,  and  some  of  them  are  from  1,000  to  2,000  feet  higher. 
The  mountain  ranges  which  hem  in  these  valleys  are  from  10,000  to  upwards  of  11,000 
feet  in  height.  Electric  Peak  (in  the  northwest  corner  of  the  park,  not  far  back  of 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs)  having  an  elevation  of  11,300  feet.  The  drainage  of  the  park 
area  is  divided  among  three  distinct  systems  —  the  Yellowstone  River,  which  has 
about  three-fifths  and  runs  in  a  sinuous  course  from  the  southeast  to  the  northwest 
corner  of  the  park,  mainly  through  deep  canons,  and  the  Madison  and  Snake  Rivers, 
which  have  about  one-fifth  each.  In  187 1  Dr.  F.  V.  Hayden  made  his  preliminary 
survey,  the  report  of  which  prompted  Congress  to  set  aside  the  tract  as  a  public  park. 
Since  that  time  Dr.  Hayden  and  his  assistants  have  made  further  surveys  of  the 
region,  and  his  twelfth  annual  report  for  1878  (issued  in  1883)  gives  the  fullest  infor- 
mation about  the  park  yet  published.  For  several  years  past  Mr.  Arnold  Hague, 
with  a  corps  of  scientific  assistants,  has  been  making  a  series  of  careful  surveys  of 
the  region.  "  The  number  of  geysers,  hot  springs,  mud  pots,  and  paint  pots,"  said 
Mr.   Hague  in  1887,   "exceeds  3,500;  and  if  to  these  be  added  \.\v^  fumaroles  and 

87 


solfataras^  the  number    of  active  vents  would  probably  be  doubled."     The  same 
authority  enumerates  seventy-five  active  geysers  in  the  four  principal  basins. 

The  park  is  under  the  care  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  and  the  present  super- 
intendent is  Captain  George  S.  Anderson,  of  the  United  States  Cavalry.  The  regula- 
tions against  the  marring  or  removal  of  geyser  or  hot  spring  deposits  are  necessarily 
strict,  and  are  impartially  enforced. 

Mammoth   Hot   Springs. 

We  shall  first  visit  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  arriving  there  early  Thursday  afternoon, 
and  remaining  until  the  ensuing  day. 

The  springs  have  built  up  a  series  of  remarkable  terraces  on  the  west  side  of  a  little 
plateau,  or  basin,  i,ooo  feet  above  the  Gardiner  River,  into  which  their  waters  flow. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  rises  the  long,  rugged  mass  of  Mount  Evarts,  which 
has  an  elevation  of  7,600  feet,  1,213  feet  higher  than  the  hotel.  The  whole  plateau 
and  the  steep  slopes  extending  down  to  the  river  are  mainly  composed  of  carbonate  of 
lime  deposits,  resulting  from  springs  now  extinct.  There  are  no  active  geysers  at 
the  present  time  in  this  basin ;  but  two  large  cones  of  extinct  springs  stand  at  no 
great  distance  from  the  hotel,  and  are  almost  the  first  objects  to  attract  attention. 
These  are  "  Liberty  Cap,"  an  isolated  shaft  forty-five  feet  in  height  and  twenty  in 
diameter  at  its  base,  and  the  "  Giant's  Thumb,"  or  "  Liberty  Cap  No.  2,"  about  100 
yards  distant  and  smaller.  Both  show  signs  of  considerable  age,  and  are  gradually 
crumbling  away.  All  around  are  a  number  of  shallow  basins  ;  and  in  other  parts  of 
the  plateau  are  cavities  and  caverns,  from  which  hot  springs  probably  flowed  at  some 
period  more  or  less  remote.  The  beautiful  terraces,  now  in  process  of  formation  just 
below  the  active  springs,  are  the  most  interesting  objects  to  be  seen,  however.    The 


recent  deposits,  on  which  the  springs  are  at  present  found,  occupy  about  170  acres,  and 
the  total  area  covered  by  the  travertine  is  about  two  square  miles.  There  are  seventy- 
five  active  springs,  varying  in  temperature  from  80  to  165  degrees  Fahrenheit,  in  all  of 
which  algae  have  been  found  growing.  This  vegetation,  according  to  the  investigations 
of  Mr.  Walter  H.  Weed,  of  the  United  States  Geological  Survey,  has  been  found  to 
play  an  important  part  in  the  formation  of  the  travertine,  and  in  producing  its  varied 
coloring.  There  are  eight  well-defined  benches,  or  terraces.  These  are  ornamented 
with  beautifully-formed  basins,  over  the  rims  of  which  the  water  finds  its  way  in  gentle 
rivulets  and  miniature  cascades.  The  walls  present  the  most  delicate  arabesques,  and 
fretted  stalactites  depend  from  the  edges.  Rich  cream  and  salmon  tints  predominate, 
but  these  deepen  into  shades  of  red,  brown,  green,  and  yellow ;  while  the  turquoise 
blue  of  the  waters  affords  a  striking  contrast  of  color.  The  principal  objects  of 
interest  are  the  "  Liberty  Cap  "  and  "  Thumb,"  already  mentioned;  the  active  springs, 
i' Pulpit  Basins,"  "  Marble  Basins  "  and  "Blue  Springs,"  on  the  main  terrace ;  and 
"  Cleopatra's  Bowl,"  "  Cupid's  Cave,"  and  the  "  Orange  Spring,"  which  are  higher 
and  farther  back. 

On   the    Road   to   the    Geysers. 

Leaving  the  hotel  at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  the  party  will  proceed  to  the  Lower 
and  Upper  Geyser  Basins  via  the  Norris  Geyser  Basin.  This  journey  and  the  subse- 
quent trips  about  the  park  will  be  made  in  comfortable  wagons.  The  early  part  of 
the  ride  lies  over  a  road  which  ascends  the  banks  of  Glen  Creek  to  the  Golden  Gate 
and  Rustic  Falls,  near  which  is  Kingman's  Pass,  7,300  feet  above  the  sea.  On  the 
plateau  above,  from  which  a  grand  view  is  had  of  Electric  Peak,  Quadrant  Mountain, 
Bell's  Peak,  and  Mount   Holmes,  Swan  Lake  is  situated.     Near  Beaver  Lake  are  the 


famous  Obsidian  Cliffs,  a  ridge  of  volcanic  glass  from   150  to  250  feet  high  and  1,000 
feet  in  length. 

The  Norris,  or  Gibbon  Geyser  Basin. 
This  is  the  first  of  the  geyser  basins  encountered  in  our  round  of  the  park,  and 
likewise  the  highest,  its  elevation  above  the  sea  being  7,527  feet.  There  are  numer- 
ous springs  and  a  few  veritable  geysers,  the  chief  of  these  being  the  "  Monarch."  Dr. 
Peale  enumerates  ninety-seven  springs  of  various  kinds  within  this  basin.  The  pecu- 
liarities here  noticed  are  the  absence  of  any  very  great  accumulation  of  deposits,  and 
the  newness  of  some  of  the  important  geysers.  The  "  Monarch  "  is  a  powerful  geyser 
which  is  in  eruption  once  in  about  every  twenty-four  hours.  It  emits  a  stream  to  the 
height  of  about  100  feet.  The  "Hurricane"  is  a  fierce,  roaring  spring  that  is 
expected  to  develop  into  a  geyser,  and  the  "Growler"  is  the  significant  name  of 
another  vigorous  steam  and  water  vent.  The  "  New  Crater  "  broke  out  with  great 
vigor  in  1890,  but  is  now  less  violent.  The  "Minute  Man  "is  a  small  geyser  near 
the  road. 

Gibbon  Falls. 
The  road  from  the  Norris  Basin  southward  crosses  a  ridge,  and,  descending  there- 
from to  the  Gibbon  Meadows,  or  Elk  Park,  soon  enters  the  wild  canon  of  the  Gibbon 
River.  A  new  road  has  been  constructed,  forming  a  continuation  of  the  old  route 
along  the  river  bank.  This  follows  the  river  to  a  point  below  the  picturesque  Gibbon 
Falls,  and  is  eventually  to  be  extended  to  theFirehole  Basin  (or  Lower  Geyser  Basin)^ 
thus  avoiding  a  series  of  difficult  hills.  The  falls,  which  are  eighty  feet  in  height,  are 
seen  to  great  advantage  from  the  new  roadway,  which  at  this  point  occupies  a  high 
perch  directly  in  front  of  the  cataract. 

90 


The  Lower  Geyser  Basin. 

The  Fountain  Hotel  in  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin  will  be  reached  at  a  seasonable  after- 
noon hour.  This  basin  is  a  wide  valley,  with  an  area  of  between  30  and  40  square  miles, 
having  an  elevation  of  7, 1 50  feet,  or  only  90  feet  less  than  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin,  from 
six  to  ten  miles  distant.  Above  this  the  surrounding  plateau  rises  from  400  to  800  feet, 
the  slopes  being  heavily  timbered.  In  this  section  Dr.  Hayden's  party  found  693 
springs,  including  the  Egeria  Springs  of  the  Midway  Basin,  among  which  the  "  Excel- 
sior "  Geyser  and  "  Prismatic  "  Lake  are  counted.  The  chief  points  of  interest  visited 
by  tourists  are  the  "  Fountain  "  Geyser  and  "  Mammoth  Paint  Pots,"  which  are  situ- 
ated near  each  other.  The  "  Fountain  "  is  a  very  handsome  geyser,  and  is  in  eruption 
five  or  six  times  daily.  The  "  Paint  Pots  "  constitute  one  of  the  chief  wonders  of  the 
park.  In  a  crater  forty  feet  or  more  in  diameter,  there  are  numerous  mud  springs,  in 
which  the  material  cast  forth  has  the  appearance  of  paint  of  different  shades.  The 
pasty  material  is  exceedingly  fine  to  the  touch,  and,  as  it  bubbles  up,  generally  assumes 
for  a  moment  some  floral  form.  Nearly  two  miles  distant  easterly,  but  rather  difficult  of 
access,  is  another  group  of  geysers  and  springs,  including  the  "  Great  Fountain,*'  one 
of  the  most  powerful  geysers  in  the  park.  It  is  in  eruption  every  forty-six  hours,  and 
throws  water  to  the  height  of  from  125  to  150  feet. 

The  *' Excelsior"  Geyser  and  ''Prismatic'*  Lake. 

In  the  ride  between  the  Lower  and  Upper  Basins,  a  halt  will  be  made  in  the  Midway 
Geyser  Basin  for  the  purpose  of  inspecting  the  great  "  Excelsior  "  Geyser,  '*  Turquoise  " 
Spring,  and  "  Prismatic  "  Lake,  all  of  which  lie  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river.  The 
"Excelsior,"  the  largest  geyser  known  in  the  world,  was  in  a  state  of  great  activity 
during  1888,  after  a  period  of  inaction  lasting  about  six  years.     The  eruptions  occurred 

91 


at  intervals  of  about  an  hour,  and  were  very  powerful.  A  great  dome  of  water,  often 
accompanied  by  lavatic  stones,  was  thrown  into  the  air  to  a  height  of  between  200  and 
300  feet,  while  the  accompanying  column  of  steam  rose  1,000  feet  or  more.  Early  in 
1889  the  geyser  again  ceased  action,  but  in  1890  it  resumed  its  work  for  a  short  time, 
but  with  diminished  force.  Nevertheless,  its  eruptions,  which  occurred  every  two 
hours,  were  grand  spectacles.  The  crater  is  an  immense  pit  330  feet  in  length  and 
200  feet  in  width  at  the  widest  part,  the  cliff-like  and  treacherous  walls  being  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  feet  high  from  the  boiling  waters  to  the  surrounding  level.  The 
name  of  "  Cliff  Cauldron  "  was  given  it  by  the  Hayden  Survey  in  1871,  and  it  was 
not  until  some  years  later  that  it  was  discovered  to  be  a  powerful  geyser.  "  Hell's 
Half  Acre  "  is  another  expressive  title  given  to  this  terrible  pit.  Two  rivulets  pour 
forth  from  the  cauldron  and  from  the  neighboring  springs,  and  the  deposits  along 
their  channels  are  very  brilliantly  colored. 

The  "  Turquoise  "  Spring,  near  the  *'  Excelsior,"  is  beautiful  in  its  rich  tints  of  blue, 
and  "  Prismatic  "  Lake,  also  near  at  hand,  is  another  wonderful  display  of  color. 

The  Upper  Geyser  Basin  and   its   Wonders. 

About  five  miles  above  the  "  Excelsior  "  Geyser  we  come  to  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin. 
Here,  in  a  nearly  level  tract  inclosed  by  low  hills,  with  the  Firehole  River  flowing 
through  it  and  mainly  upon  the  east  side,  are  found  the  chief  geysers  of  this  mar- 
velous region.  The  basin  has  an  area  of  about  four  square  miles,  and  a  general 
elevation  of  7,240  feet.  There  are  here  forty  geysers,  nine  of  which  are  large,  besides 
many  beautiful  hot  springs.  The  Upper  Basin  group  includes,  with  others,  the  follow- 
ing :  "Old  Faithful,"  "Castle,"  "  Bee  Hive,"  "  Giant,"  "  Giantess,"  "  Grotto,"  "  Grand," 
"Oblong,"  "Splendid,"  "Comet,"  "Fan,"  "Mortar,"  "Riverside,"  "Turban,"  "Saw 

92 


Mill,"  "  Lion,"  and  "  Lioness."  These  are  scattered  over  the  surface  of  the  basin, 
chiefly  along  the  river  bank,  "  Old  Faithful "  being  at  the  southern  extremity,  and  the 
**  Fan,"  "  Mortar,"  and  "  Riverside  "  at  the  northern  end,  near  where  the  wagon  road 
enters  the  basin.  The  "  Grotto,"  "  Giant,"  "  Oblong,"  and  "  Castle  "  are  near  the  road. 
The*' Bee  Hive,"  with  its  handsome  cone,  from  which  the  geyser  takes  its  name, 
together  with  the  *'  Giantess  "  and  *'  Lion  "  group,  is  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
from  the  hotel.  The  '*  Lone  Star  "  Geyser,  celebrated  on  account  of  the  size  and  beauty 
of  its  cone,  is  between  four  and  five  miles  south  of  the  hotel.  On  the  new  road  lead- 
ing to  the  "  Lone  Star,"  or  near  it,  is  a  picturesque  fall  known  as  Kepler's  Cascade.  M  any 
beautiful  springs  are  in  proximity  to  the  geysers,  forming  objects  of  interest  second 
only  to  the  mammoth  fountains  of  hot  water.  The  subterranean  forces  are  never  at 
rest,  and  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  at  all  times  presents  a  strikingly  wierd  scene. 
Strange  sights  and  sounds  greet  the  visitor  on  every  side.  Clouds  of  steam  arise 
from  a  dozen  different  localities,  some  of  the  springs  being  hidden  in  the  timber  which 
covers  the  neighboring  mountain-sides.  There  are  daily  eruptions  of  some  of  the 
geysers,  while  others  have  longer  intervals  of  quiescence.  "Old  Faithful"  makes  a 
magnificent  display  once  an  hour,  and  is  one  of  the  handsomest  geysers  in  the  park. 

From  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  to  Yellowstone  Lake. 

A  new  route  has  been  opened  from  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  to  Yellowstone  Lake, 
which  is  much  easier  to  traverse  than  the  old  one,  which  led  over  the  dangerous  steeps 
of  *'  Mary's  Mountain."  It  passes  over  the  continental  divide  twice,  and  affords 
splendid  views  of  Shoshone  Lake  and  a  portion  of  the  park  not  otherwise  seen.  The 
road  emerges  upon  the  lake  at  West  Bay,  or  "The  Thumb,"  near  which  are  some 
interesting   springs    and    "paint  pots,"  and    also  one    active    geyser   known  as  the 

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"Union."  A  small  steamboat  plies  upon  the  lake  between  West  Bay  and  the  hotel 
near  the  outlet.  Lunch  will  be  taken  at  this  point  and  the  remainder  of  the  stage 
ride  to  the  Lake  Hotel  will  occupy  most  of  the  afternoon. 

Yellowstone  Lake. 
This  large  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water  lies  at  an  elevation  of  7,741  feet,  according 
to  the  latest  measurements  of  the  United  States  Geological  Survey.  It  covers  a 
superficial  area  of  139  square  miles,  with  an  irregular  shore  line  of  about  100  miles, 
and  is  the  largest  lake  in  North  America  at  this  altitude.  Upon  a  bluff  at  the  entrance 
of  a  little  bay  near  the  outlet  a  new  and  commodious  hotel  has  been  built.  The  view 
from  this  point  is  charming.  In  the  southeast  are  some  of  the  highest  mountains  in 
the  park  —  including  Eagle  Peak  (11,100  feet),  Silver  Tip  (ic,ooo  feet).  Mount  Chit- 
tenden (10,000  feet),  Cathedral  Peak  (10,500  feet)  Mounts  Doane,  Langford,  and 
Stevenson  (all  three  over  to,ooo  feet),  and  other  landmarks  of  the  Absaroka,  or 
Hoodoo  range.  In  the  south  are  Flat  Mountain,  Mount  Hancock,  and  Mount  Sheri- 
dan (10,200  feet).  The  latter  is  the  highest  of  the  Red  Mountains,  near  Heart  Lake. 
These  peaks  are  blue  in  the  distance,  and  the  scenery  is  suggestive  of  the  picturesque- 
ness  of  the  Swiss  lakes.  About  three  and  a  half  miles  from  the  hotel,  at  an  elevation 
of  8,000  feet  above  the  sea,  is  a  natural  bridge.  A  little  stream  has  worn  its  way 
down  through  a  rock  wall,  and  directly  under  the  arch  is  a  fall  of  about  forty  feet. 

The 'Falls  and  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone. 

Leaving  the  Lake  Hotel  Tuesday  morning,  we  shall  proceed  to  Yellowstone  Falls 
and  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone.  We  pass  on  our  way  a  wonderful  object 
known  as  the  "  Mud  Volcano."  It  is  a  pit  about  twenty  feet  in  depth,  and  from  a 
capacious  opening  on  one  side  at  the  bottom  boiling  mud  surges  forth  with  great 

94 


vehemence.  The  road  follows  the  west  bank  of  the  river  nearly  all  the  way,  and  a 
few  miles  from  our  destination  passes  Sulphur  Mountain  or  Crater  Hills,  an  extensive 
deposit  of  sulphur  in  a  region  of  hot  springs,  one  of  which,  at  the  base  of  the  hill 
near  the  road,  is  especially  active. 

Upon  an  elevated  plateau  above  the  river,  nearly  a  mile  from  the  former  house,  a 
new  and  capacious  hotel,  litted  up  with  modern  improvements,  has  been  built.  In  its 
approach  to  the  hotel  the  road  crosses  Cascade  Creek,  just  above  the  pretty  Crystal 
Cascades.  The  Yellowstone  Falls  are  two  in  number.  At  the  head  of  the  Upper 
Fall  the  river  has  a  width  of  about  eighty  feet,  and  the  waters  plunge  over  a  shelf 
between  walls  that  are  from  200  to  300  feet  in  height,  upon  a  partially  submerged  reef 
109  feet  below.  Dense  clouds  of  spray  and  mist  veil  fully  one-third  of  the  cataract 
from  view. 

Half  a  mile  below  this  fall  is  the  Lower  or  Great  Fall,  which  is  grander  and  more 
impressive  than  the  other,  though  not  more  picturesque.  Here  the  waters  pour  into 
the  fearful  abyss  of  the  Grand  Canon,  the  sheer  descent  being  308  feet.  The  wooded 
slopes  of  the  gorge  tower  far  above  the  flood,  and  one  has  to  descend  a  steep  incline  to 
reach  a  platform  which  serves  as  a  good  view  point  at  the  verge  of  the  fall.  The  best 
views,  however,  are  had  farther  down  the  trail,  where  many  favoring  points  afford  an 
outlook  into  the  wonderful  canon.  Clouds  of  mist  ascend  from  the  foot  of  the  falls, 
and  the  walls  are  covered  with  a  rank  growth  of  mosses  and  algcB. 

The  caiion  may  well  be  considered  the  greatest  of  the  park  marvels.  The  height  of 
the  plateau  at  the  falls  is  7,800  feet.  It  increases  slightly  northeastward,  until,  in 
passing  the  mountains,  it  has  an  elevation  of  about  8,000  feet.  There  may  be  deeper 
canons  elsewhere,  but  they  cannot  exceed  in  impressive  beauty  the  marvelously  pict- 
ured rift  through  which  the  Yellowstone  winds  its  way  after  its  last  grand  leap.     A 

95 


narrow  trail  runs  along  the  western  edge,  and  there  are  many  jutting  points  from 
which  new  vistas  are  opened  through  this  enchanted  land.  The  walls  are  in  places 
perpendicular,  though  generally  sloping;  while  at  the  bottom  is  the  fretted  and  fuming 
river,  a  ribbon  of  silvery  whiteness  or  deep  emerald  green.  Along  the  bottom  of  the 
canon  are  domes  and  spires  of  colored  rock,  some  of  them  hundreds  of  feet  in  height, 
yet  reduced  to  much  smaller  proportions  by  the  distance.  On  the  apex  of  one  of 
these  pillars  is  an  eagle's  nest.  But  the  gorgeous  coloring  of  the  canon  walls  is  its 
distinguishing  feature.  The  beholder  is  no  longer  left  in  doubt  as  to  the  reason  for 
bestowing  the  name  of  Yellowstone  upon  this  remarkable  river.  The  beautifully 
saffron-tinted  walls  give  the  explanation.  There  are  other  tints  in  opulence.  Crimsons 
and  greens  are  seen  with  all  their  gradations  and  blendings.  Emerald  mosses  and 
foliage  form  the  settings  for  dashes  of  bright  rainbow  colors. 

From  the  Cation  to  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs. 

From  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone  a  road  extends  directly  west  to  Norris 
Geyser  Basin,  which  is  about  a  dozen  miles  distant.  The  latter  part  of  the  way  is 
beside  the  Upper  Gibbon  River.  The  Virginia  Cascades,  which  are  at  the  side  of  the 
stage  road,  form  one  of  the  prettiest  sights  in  the  park.  From  the  Norris  Geyser 
Basin  Hotel,  where  we  dine,  we  proceed  to  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  arriving  at  the 
latter  point  in  the  afternoon. 

It  may  be  deemed  advisable  to  divide  the  party  for  the  round  of  the  park.  In  that 
case  one  section  will  reverse  the  order  of  travel  described  in  the  foregoing  pages. 

From  the  Yellowstone  National  Park  Eastward. 
Taking  our  departure  from  the  hotel  at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  Thursday,  June  29, 
by  stage,  the  party  will  proceed  to  Cinnabar,  where  our  Pullman  palace  cars  will  be 

96 


in  waiting.  Our  route  takes  us  back  to  Livingston  on  the  Park  Branch,  and  then 
eastward  on  the  main  line  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad.  For  some  350  miles  we 
follow  the  banks  of  the  Yellowstone.  Billings,  named  in  honor  of  Hon.  Frederick 
Billings,  a  former  president  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  is  a  flourishing  town  of 
1,500  inhabitants,  1,020  miles  from  Tacoma  and  891  miles  from  St.  Paul.  Twenty- 
eight  miles  east  of  Billings  is  Pompey's  Pillar,  a  mass  of  sandstone  about  400  feet 
high,  on  the  side  of  which  Captain  William  Clark,  the  explorer,  carved  his  name, 
July  25,  1806.  At  Big  Horn  the  railroad  passes  through  a  tunnel  1,100  feet  long,  and 
immediately  after  crosses  the  Big  Horn  River  on  a  bridge  600  feet  in  length.  Custer, 
Forsyth,  and  Miles  City  are  places  named  in  honor  of  military  heroes.  The  latter  is 
a  young  city  of  considerable  importance,  and  a  few  miles  west  of  it  is  Fort  Keogh. 
Friday  afternoon  we  shall  reach  Glendive,  a  growing  town  near  the  eastern  line  of 
Montana  and  the  last  point  of  importance  within  that  State. 

Thirty-six  miles  east  of  Glendive  and  one  mile  west  of  Sentinel  Butte,  we  pass  out 
of  Montana,  through  which  we  have  journeyed  on  the  main  line  of  railway  780  miles. 
The  succeeding  367  miles  lie  within  the  new  State  of  North  Dakota.  Both  North  and 
South  Dakota  were  admitted  to  statehood  in  1889,  together  with  Montana  and  Wash- 
ington.    The  former  has  a  population  of  182,425. 

Pyramid  Park  or  the  "  Bad  Lands." 

On  entering  North  Dakota,  we  soon  find  ourselves  in  the  famous  **  Bad  Lands." 
The  mighty  forces  of  water  and  fire  have  here  wrought  strange  confusion.  Buttes 
from  50  to  150  feet  high  are  seen,  with  rounded  summits,  steep  sides,  and  variegated 
bands  of  color.  The  black  and  brown  stripes  are  due  to  veins  of  impure  lignites, 
from  the  burning  of  which  are  derived  the  shades  of  rcdj  while  the  raw  clay  varies 
97 


from  a  glaring  white  to  a  dark  gray.  The  mounds  are  in  every  conceivable  form,  and 
are  composed  of  different  varieties  of  argillaceous  limestone,  friable  sandstone,  and 
lignite,  lying  in  successive  strata.  The  coloring  is  very  rich.  Between  these  curiously 
shaped  elevations  are  ravines  and  gulches  through  which  streams  meander;  aud  there 
are  occasional  park-like  tracts  that  afford  nutritious  grazing  for  cattle.  The  term 
*'Bad  Lands,"  as  applied  to  this  region  and  generally  understood,  is  certainly  a  mis- 
nomer. The  old  French  voyageurs  described  the  region  as  "  nuiuvaises  terres  pour 
traverser^'^  meaning  that  it  was  a  difficult  country  to  travel  through,  and  the  term  has 
been  carelessly  translated  and  shortened  into  "  Bad  Lands." 

The  region  lying  east  of  the  remarkable  section  just  referred  to  is  devoted  chiefly  to 
cattle  grazing.  The  appearance  of  the  country  is  that  of  a  rough,  rolling  prairie,  with 
here  and  there  a  bold  elevation  in  butte  form.  Between  Mandan  and  Bismarck  the 
railroad  crosses  the  Missouri  River  on  a  magnificent  three-pier  iron  bridge,  which 
cost  $1,000,000.  The  thriving  city  of  Bismarck,  which  lies  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Missouri,  is  the  capital  of  North  Dakota.  Jamestown  is  another  flourishing  place, 
and  east  of  there  we  pass  through  the  great  Red  River  wheat  belt.  The  famous 
Dalrymple  farms  comprise  some  75,000  acres  of  land.  Fargo,  the  financial  metropolis 
of  the  Red  River  Valley,  is  a  stirring  city.     It  is  situated  251  miles  from  St.  Paul. 

Minnesota. 

The  State  of  Minnesota  which  we  enter  at  Moorhead,  embraces  83,530  square  miles, 
and  in  1890  contained  a  population  of  1,300,017.  Its  elevation  is  from  1,000  to  1,800 
feet  above  the  ocean,  and  there  are  within  its  borders  upwards  of  7,000  small  lakes. 
The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  traverses  this  great  empire  of  the  West  from  the  Red 
River  to  St.  Paul,  and  in  an  important  easterly  extension  from  Brainerd  to  Duluth  and 


Ashland,  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior.  There  are  also  several  important  branches. 
Among  the  principal  towns  passed  through  during  this  part  of  our  journey  are  Glyn- 
don,  Lake  Park,  Detroit  (which  is  beautifully  situated  near  Detroit  Lake),  Perham, 
Wadena,  Verndale,  Little  Falls,  Sauk  Rapids,  and  Anoka.  We  shall  be  due  in 
Minneapolis  Saturday  noon,  July  i. 

Although  less  than  thirty  years  old,  Minneapolis  has  a  population  of  164,780  —  an 
increase  of  117,893  in  ten  years  —  and  its  builders  can  hardly  keep  pace  with  the 
demands  of  trade  and  the  calls  of  new-comers  for  residences.  Its  streets  and  avenues 
are  spacious,  and  in  many  instances  lined  with  trees ;  while  its  business  blocks  are 
among  the  most  substantial  and  elegant  in  the  country.  Its  immense  manufacturing 
interests  are  headed  by  twenty-five  flouring  mills,  which  turned  out  7,000,000  barrels 
of  flour,  and  by  fifteen  lumber  mills,  in  which  343,000,000  feet  of  lumber,  valued  at 
$30,000,000,  were  cut  in  1890.  These  figures  have  since  increased.  Our  stay  in 
Minneapolis  will  be  at  the  West  Hotel.  There  will  be  a  carriage  ride  Saturday  after- 
noon through  the  most  interesting  business  and  residence  sections  of  the  city. 

St.  Paul. 

The  party  will  proceed  from  Minneapolis  Monday  morning  to  the  sister  city  of  St. 
Paul,  only  ten  miles  distant.  There  will  be  a  transfer  from  the  Union  station  in  the 
latter  city  to  the  Hotel  Ryan.  St  Paul  is  a  city  of  recent  and  very  rapid  growth, 
although  the  oldest-settled  portion  of  that  empire  of  the  Northwest,  Minnesota. 
It  was  long  an  Indian  town,  and  in  1680  was  visited  by  Father  Hennepin.  The  first 
white  settlement  was  founded  in  1838,  and  a  Catholic  mission  was  called  St.  Paul's  ; 
hence  the  name  of  the  city.  The  town  was  incorporated  in  1849  with  a  population  of 
400,  and  the  city  in  1854,  with  a  population  of  4,500.     The  St.  Paul  of  today  has  a 

99 


population  of  133,156,  according  to  the  recent  census,  and  is  one  of  the  handsomest 
as  well  as  one  of  the  busiest  cities  in  America.  Its  wholesale  trade  amounts  to 
over  $72,000,000  per  year.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  State  and  the  county  seat  of 
Ramsey  county.  Its  situation,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Mississippi  River, 
was  at  the  outset  greatly  in  its  favor,  and  the  centering  here  of  the  great  railway 
systems  of  the  Northwest  has  given  it  still  greater  importance.  The  public  buildings 
of  St.  Paul,  and  many  of  the  business  edifices,  are  truly  magnificent  structures. 
Summit  avenue,  which  leads  toward  Fort  Snelling,  is  lined  with  handsome  residences. 
The  Fort  is  situated  on  the  high  banks  of  the  Mississippi  River  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Minnesota  River.     There  will  be  a  carriage  ride  Monday  afternoon. 

From  St.   Paul  Eastward. 

Taking  the  train  at  the  Minneapolis  &  St.  Louis  Railway  station  Tuesday  evening, 
we  continue  our  journey  eastward.  The  Albert  Lea  route,  over  which  we  travel,  is  a 
part  of  the  popular  Rock  Island  system,  being  made  up  of  the  following  named  roads  : 
The  Minneapolis  &  St.  Louis  Railway  from  Minneapolis  to  Albert  Lea,  Minn.;  the 
Burlington,  Cedar  Rapids  &  Northern  Railway  from  Albert  Lea  to  West  Liberty,  la., 
and  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  Railway  thence  to  Chicago.  This  line  trav- 
erses some  of  the  richest  portions  of  Southern  Minnesota  and  Northeastern  Iowa,  and 
then  crosses  the  northern  part  of  the  great  State  of  Illinois.  The  train  proceeds 
southward  across  some  half-dozen  counties  of  Minnesota,  passing  through  several 
flourishing  places,  including  Waseca  and  Albert  Lea.  Reaching  the  borders  of  Iowa, 
portions  of  eleven  counties  in  that  rich  and  productive  State  are  passed  through. 
Cedar  Rapids  and  Davenport  are  the  chief  Iowa  cities  lying  upon  this  line.  Between 
Davenport  and  Rock  Island  the  Mississippi  is  crossed  by  a  magnificent  bridge.     The 

100 


party  will  arrive  at  the  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Exposition  station  on  the  Illinois 
Central  Railroad  in  Chicago  (Madison  Avenue  and  Sixty-first  street)  Wednesday 
afternoon,  July  5,  and  be  transferred  at  once  to  the  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand 
Hotel,  Midway  Plaisance,  Madison  and  Washington  avenues.  The  Raymond  &  Whit- 
comb Grand  has  already  been  described  on  pages  15  -  17.  The  stay  at  this  splendid 
hotel  will  continue  until  Wednesday  afternoon,  July  12. 

The  "World's  Columbian  Exposition. 

One  distinguishing  advantage  of  the  location  of  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand 
within  one-fifth  of  a  mile  of  the  Exposition  grounds  will  be  found  in  this,  that  it  will 
greatly  economize  time  and  strength.  The  members  of  the  party  will  be  able  to  visit 
the  grounds  and  buildings,  day  by  day,  much  more  leisurely  and  comfortably  than  if 
they  were  living  at  a  distance.  Considering  the  magnitude  of  the  Exhibition,  this  is 
a  very  important  consideration. 

All  the  other  nations  of  the  earth  are  uniting  with  our  own  on  this  occasion  in  a 
comprehensive  exhibit  of  the  world's  progress  in  manufactures,  science,  and  the  arts. 
It  was  fitting  that  America  should  become  the  scene  of  the  ninth  in  the  series  of  great 
world's  fairs,  inaugurated  by  the  London  exhibition  of  1851,  and  especially  appropriate 
that  this  form  of  observance  should  be  chosen  to  mark  an  event  so  fraught  with  interest 
and  importance  to  mankind.  It  was  a  happy  selection,  also,  that  made  Chicago,  a 
city  thoroughly  typical  of  American  progress,  the  place  of  celebration.  The  national 
government  has  co-operated  with  the  people  in  the  great  work  of  organization  and 
preparation,  and  the  citizens  of  Chicago,  with  characteristic  energy  and  commendable 
liberality,  have  added  millions  of  dollars  and  untiring  personal  effort  in  furtherance 
of  the  gigantic  enterprise.     So  vigorously  was  the  work  pushed  that  the  great  exhibi- 

lOI 


tion  palaces  were  in  full  readiness  for  dedication  at  the  appointed  time,  in  October, 
1892  —  the  true  anniversary  year  —  but,  in  accordance  with  the  original  design,  and  to 
ensure  thoroughness  in  every  detail  of  the  preparations,  the  opening  of  the  Exposition 
was  deferred  until  the  spring  of  1893.  The  time  thus  given  to  the  work  of  organiza- 
tion will  bring  gratifying  results,  and  thus  the  exhibition  will  be  complete  at  the  out- 
set. The  opening  will  find  every  feature  in  full  display,  and  for  the  six  months  ensuing 
Chicago  will  be  the  world's  chief  centre  of  attraction. 

The  site  selected  for  the  Exposition  is  that  part  of  the  South  Park  System  known 
as  Jackson  Park  and  the  Midway  Plaisance.  The  North  line  of  Jackson  Park  is  about 
seven  miles  from  the  City  Hall.  Jackson  Park  has  a  frontage  of  one  and  a  half  miles 
on  Lake  Michigan,  and  contains  nearly  553  acres  of  ground.  The  Midw^ay  Plaisance, 
which  forms  the  connecting  link  between  Jackson  and  Washington  Parks,  and  on 
which  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  fronts,  is  one  mile  long  and  600  feet  wide* 
making  an  additional  area  of  about  80  acres. 

There  will  be  upon  the  Exposition  grounds  about  125  buildings  for  general  or 
special  exhibits,  covering  an  area  of  over  200  acres.  As  some  of  the  great  buildings 
have  galleries  in  addition  to  ground-floor  space,  the  actual  exhibition  area  is  much  in 
excess  of  these  figures.  In  fact,  the  main  buildings  in  themselves  contain  a  floor 
area  of  199.7  acres,  the  ground  space  covered  being  no  less  than  159.3  acres. 

Entering  the  grounds  at  Fifty-ninth  street,  the  Women's  Building  is  seen  near  at 
hand  on  the  right,  the  Illinois  Building  on  the  left,  and  farther  away,  in  the  latter 
direction,  the  Art  Palace.  Beyond  this  latter  edifice,  or  flanking  it,  is  the  splendid 
•  array  of  State  Buildings.  In  front,  across  an  arm  of  the  lagoon  (a  large  area  being 
given  over  to  water  surface),  is  the  Fisheries  Building,  while  to  the  right,  beyond  a 
broader  expanse  of  water,  is  the  Government  Building,  with  its  great  dome.     Near 

102 


the  shore  of  the  lake  are  some  of  the  foreign  buildings,  including  those  of  Great 
Britain  and  Mexico.  Directly  south  stretches  the  lagoon,  with  a  wooded  island  which 
is  to  be  the  scene  of  an  elaborate  floral  display.  West  of  the  lagoon,  and  directly 
south  of  the  Women's  Building,  is  the  Horticultural  Building.  Beyond  this  and  the 
lagoon  rises  a  mass  of  domes  and  pinnacles  belonging  to  the  other  great  exhibition 
edifices.  The  largest  structure  of  all,  the  Palace  of  Manufactures  and  the  Liberal 
Arts,  stands  between  the  lagoon  and  the  lake,  bordered  on  the  south  by  the  Great 
Basin.  West  of  it  are  ranged  the  Electrical  Building,  the  Hall  of  Mines  and  Mining, 
and  the  Transportation  Building.  At  the  head  of  the  Great  Basin  stands  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  structures  of  all,  the  Administration  Building,  surmounted  by  an 
ornate  dome.  In  the  rear  of  this  edifice  is  the  railway  terminal  station,  and  directly 
south  is  Machinery  Hall  and  its  huge  annex.  The  Agricultural  Buildings  stand  south 
of  the  Great  Basin ;  and  beyond,  upon  the  lake  shore,  are  the  Forestry  and  Dairy 
Buildings.  Beyond  the  east  end  of  the  Basin  are  a  great  Music  Hall  and  a  Casino. 
The  live  stock  exhibit  will  be  in  the  extreme  southern  end  of  the  inclosure.  A  large 
area  in  the  northern  part  of  the  grounds  is  assigned  to  foreign  buildings.  There  is 
scarcely  a  nation  on  the  earth  that  is  not  represented  in  this  vast  collection  of 
wonders,  and  in  many  instances  special  buildings  have  been  erected  to  serve  both  as 
national  headquarters  and  as  the  focal  point  of  the  mo^t  valued  contributions. 

Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  chief  buildings,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  are 
intended  for  temporary  use  only,  there  is  no  appearence  of  hasty  construction  or 
cheapness.  Most  of  the  structures  are  covered  with  a  decorative  substance  called 
"staff,"  which  may  be  fashioned  into  any  required  design  and  colored  in  any  desired  ^ 
tint,  and  which  hardens  on  exposure  with  an  ivory-like  surface.  Thus  the  most  ornate 
architectual  effects   are   produced   and   the  great   edifices    are  made  to  present  the 

103 


appearance  of  veritable  marble  palaces.  Most  of  the  great  buildings  are  elevated  on 
platforms  slightly  raised  above  the  common  level  of  the  grounds,  and  this  adds  to  their 
prominence  and  stateliness. 

The  water-ways  admit  of  navigation,  by  gondolas  and  electric  launches,  through  a 
large  part  of  the  park.  All  the  chief  buildings  may  be  reached  by  water,  or  by  an 
elevated  railway  —  the  Intra-mural.  Jinrikshas,  the  famous  man-carriage  of  the 
Japanese,  will  be  brought  into  service  to  aid  the  visitor  in  reaching  different  parts  of 
the  grounds,  while  a  movable  sidewalk,  or  multiple-speed  railway,  has  also  been  intro- 
duced. 

Many  of  the  special  exhibits  and  foreign  villages  are  located  on  the  Midway  Plaisance. 
This  space  will  abound  in  novel  features,  and  the  visitor  will  there  find  ample  means 
of  recreation  and  amusement.  It  will  be  literally  a  concourse  of  all  nations  of  the 
earth,  with  attractions  drawn  from  every  clime.  Strange  peoples  will  be  found  in  their 
native  garb,  following  their  home  vocations,  and  a  dozen  places  of  amusement  will 
represent  the  peculiar  dramatic,  musical,  and  terpsichorean  performances  of  as  many 
lands.  Cafes  with  native  surroundings  and  characteristic  viands  are  scattered  through 
this  strange  domain.  In  the  fair  grounds  proper  fully  150  restaurants  and  cafes,  with 
an  estimated  seating  capacity  of  from  60,000  to  80,000  persons,  will  be  in  operation. 

In  size  the  Chicago  Fair  will  greatly  exceed  all  its  predecessors.  The  London 
exhibition  of  1851  was  nearly  equalled  by  a  single  building  in  the  Paris  exhibition  of 
1889,  and  it  will  be  exceeded  by  at  least  one  of  the  palaces  of  industry  in  Chicago. 
The  Paris  exhibition  of  1889  occupied  234  acres.  .  The  Chicago  exhibition  fills  633 
acres.  Paris  had  1,000,000  square  feet  under  roof.  Chicago  will  have  five  times 
as  much.  The  buildings  alone  will  cost  nearly  three  times  as  much  as  the  total 
expense  of  the  last  Paris  fair.     "  In  its  scope  and  magnificence,"  says  a  government 

104 


report,  "  this  exposition  stands  alone.  There  is  nothing  like  it  in  all  history.  It 
easily  surpasses  all  kindred  enterprises,  and  will  amply  illustrate  the  marvelous  genius 
of  the  American  people  in  the  great  domains  of  agriculture,  commerce,  manufactures, 
and  invention,  virhich  constitute  the  foundation  on  which  rests  the  structure  of  our 
national  glory  and  prosperity."  The  great  Manufactures  and  Liberal  Arts  Building 
is  of  mammoth  proportions  in  comparison  with  the  largest  structures  in  the  world, 
any  one  of  which  could  readily  be  placed  in  one  of  its  corners. 

In  place  of  only  $10,000,000,  as  originally  contemplated,  about  $18,750,000  has 
already  been  expended,  while  the  operating  expenses  are  computed  at  some 
$2,500,000  additional,  making  an  aggregate  expenditure  of  about  $21,250,000.  The 
receipts  from  visitors,  which  will  provide  for  some  of  this  expenditure,  are  estimated 
at  $10,000,000.  In  furtherance  of  their  own  participation  in  the  great  fair,  foreign 
governments  have  appropriated  nearly  $5,000,000  and  the  States  and  Territories  nearly 
$5,000,000 

From  Chicago  Homeward. 

The  party  will  be  transferred  from  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  to  Raymond 
&  Whitcomb's  Exposition  station  Wednesday  afternoon,  July  12,  and  will  leave  Chi- 
cago for  the  East  at  3  o'clock.  The  homeward  route  is  by  way  of  the  Illinois  Central 
Railroad  to  Harvey,  111.,  and  thence  over  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  and  Grand 
Trunk  Railways  to  Suspension  Bridge,  and  the  West  Shore  and  Fitchburg  Railroads 
from  Suspension  Bridge  to  Boston.  The  tourists  will  arrive  at  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y., 
Thursday  morning  and  remain  there  until  late  in  the  afternoon.  The  day  can  be 
spent  in  an  inspection  of  the  great  cataract  and  the  other  attractions  of  the  place,  the 
time  being  ample  for  a  round  of  all  the  chief  points  of  interest.  The  station  is  in 
proximity  to   Prospect  Park,  the  Rapids,  and  the  entrance  to  Goat  Island,  and  also 

105 


near  the  upper  suspension  bridge  that  leads  across  to  the  Canada  shore  just  below  the 
falls.  Leaving  Niagara  Falls,  from  the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  Railroad 
station,  we  proceed  eastward  over  the  West  Shore  Railroad  line,  the  route  lying 
through  the  Central  part  of  New  York,  and  thence  by  way  of  the  Fitchburg  Railroad 
to  Boston,  where  the  party  will  arrive  Friday  morning,  July  14. 

The  tour  will  be  carried  out  in  accordance  with  the  following  itinerary,  subject  only 
to  such  slight  variations  as  may  be  necessary  in  hours  of  arrival  and  departure,  on 
account  of  changes  in  the  time  of  regular  trains  and  steamers,  or  similar  reasons :  — 

ITINERARY. 

Monday,  April  24.  First  Day. —  Leave  Boston  from  the  Fitchburg  Railroad  station,  Causeway 
street,  at  4.00  p.  m.,  and  proceed  westward  by  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  route.  The  transcontinental  journey 
will  be  made  in  a  special  train  of  elegant  vestibuled  Pullman  palace  cars,  including  a  palace  dining-car. 
On  arrival  at  the  station  members  of  the  party  should  check  their  baggage  to  Denver,  Col.  The  checks 
will  be  taken  up  by  the  baggage  master  of  the  party,  who  will  attend  to  th^  delivery,  collection,  and  trans- 
portation of  the  baggage  during  the  trip.  Tags  are  supplied  with  the  exrursion  tickets,  and  these,  with 
the  owner's  name  and  home  address  plainly  inscribed  thereon,  should  be  attached  to  every  trunk,  valise, 
or  other  piece  of  baggage,  to  serve  as  a  ready  means  of  identification.  Hand  luggage  must  be  looked 
after  by  the  passenger. 

Tuesday,  April  25.  Second  Day. —  On  the  West  Shore  Railroad  en  route  westward;  arrive  at 
Buffalo  at  9.50  a.  m.  ;  leave  Buffalo  at  10.00  a.  m.  ;  from  Suspension  Bridge  westward  via  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway;  from  Port  Huron  westward  on  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Port  Huron,  Mich.,  from  Eastern  standard,  or  75th  meridian,  to 
Central  standard,  or  goth  meridian  —  one  hour  slower. 

Wednesday,  April  26.  Third  Day. —  From  Blue  Island  Junction  westward  via  the  Chicago,  Rock 
Island  &  Pacific  Railway. 

106 


Thursday,  April  27.  Fourth  Day.— Arr'wo.  at  Kansas  City  at  6.00  a.m.;  leave  Kansas  City  at 
11.30  A.  M.,  via  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad,  and  proceed  westward  through  Kansas. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Dodge  City,  Kan.,  from  Central  standard,  or  90th  meridian,  to 
Mountain  standard,  or  105th  meridian  —  one  hour  slower. 

Friday,  April  28.  Fifth  Day. — Arrive  at  Pueblo  at  10.00  a.  m.  ;  leave  Pueblo  at  12.00  m.,  via  the 
Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  for  a  visit  to  the  famous  Royal  Gorge;  return  to  Pueblo,  and  thence 
proceed  over  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  to  Manitou. 

Saturday,  April  29.  Sixth  Day. — Arrive  at  Manitou  at  an  early  hour,  the  cars  being  placed  upon  a 
side  track.  Carriage  ride,  with  visits  to  the  Garden  of  the  Gods,  Ute  Pass,  Rainbow  Falls,  etc. ;  leave 
Manitou  at  i.oo  p.  lA.^via  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  and  arrive  in  Denver  at  4.00  p.  m.  ;  omni- 
bus transfer  from  the  Union  station  to  Brown's  Palace  Hotel,  and  a  carriage  ride  about  the  city,  visiting 
the  principal  places  of  interest. 

Sunday,  April  30.  Seventh  Day. —  In  Denver.  Omnibus  transfer  from  the  hotel  to  the  cars  at 
g.oo  p.  M. 

Monday,  May  i.  Eighth  Day. —  Leave  Denver  soon  after  midnight  via  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande 
Railroad ;  from  Pueblo  southward  via  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad ;  arrive  at  Las  Vegas, 
N.  M.,  at  11.30  A.  M,;  thence  by  the  Hot  Springs  Branch  to  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs,  arriving  there 
at  12.00  M. ;  leave  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs  at  3.00  p.  m.,  and  Las  Vegas  at  3.30  p.  m.  ;  cross  the  Glorieta 
Pass  by  daylight,  and  proceed  from  Lamy  Junction  to  Santa  Fe  by  branch  line;  arrive  at  Santa  Fe  at 
10.00  p.  M.,  the  passengers  remaining  on  the  cars. 

Tuesday,  May  2.  Ninth  Day.— At  Santa  Fe,  Leave  Santa  Fe,  via  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa 
Fe  Railroad,  at  12.00  m.  ;  arrive  at  Albuquerque  at  4.00  p.  m.  ;  leave  Albuquerque,  via  the  Atlantic  & 
Pacific  Railroad  (Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  system),  at  5.00  p.  m. 

Wednesday,  May  3.     Tenth  Day.— En  route  through  Arizona  on  the  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Railroad. 

Thursday,  May  4.  Eleventh  Day.— Arr'wt  at  Barstow,  Cal.,  at  5.00  a.  m.  ;  thence  south  via  the 
Southern  California  Railway  (Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  system);  arrive  at  San  Bernardino  at  11.00 
A.  M.,  and  at  Riverside  at  12,00  m.  ;  leave  Riverside  at  8.00  p.  m. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Barstow  from  Mountain  standard,  or  105th  meridian,  to  Pacific 
standard,  or  120th  meridian  —  one  hour  slower. 

107 


Friday,  May  5.  Twelfth  Day. — Arrive  at  San  Diego  at  7.00  a.  m.  ;  omnibus  transfer  from  the 
station  to  the  Hotel  del  Coronado,  Coronado  Beach,  E.  S.  Babcock,  manager. 

Saturday,  May  6.     Thirteenth  Day.— Ai  the  Hotel  del  Coronado,  Coronado  Beach. 

Sunday,  May  7.    Fourteenth  Day- — At  the  Hotel  del  Coronado,  Coronado  Beach. 

Monday,  May  8.  Fifteenth  Day. —  Omnibus  transfer  from  the  Hotel  del  Coronado  to  the  station  of 
the  Southern  California  Railway,  and  leave  San  Diego  at  8.40  a.  m.,  by  the  coast  line;  arrive  in  Los 
Angeles  at  1.17  p.  m.  ;  omnibus  transfer  to  The  Westminster,  O.  T.  Johnson,  proprietor,  M.  M.  Potter, 
manager,  and  The  Hollenbeck,  E.  G.  Fay  &  Son,  proprietors. 

Tuesday,  May  9.    Sixteenth  Day. —  In  Los  Angeles. 

Wednesday,  May  10.  Seventeenth  Day.—  Leave  Los  Angeles  at  9.00  a.  m.,  by  the  Southern  Cali- 
fornia Railway, and  arrive  at  Pasadena  at  9.28  a.  m.;  carriage  ride,  visiting  the  most  picturesque  sections 
of  the  city,  including  Raymond  Hill,  Raymond  avenue,  Orange  Grove  avenue,  Colorado  street,  etc. ; 
leave  Pasadena  at  12.58  p.  m.,  and  arrive  at  Redondo  Beach,  via  the  La  Ballona  division  of  the  Southern 
California  line;  at  2.15  p.  m.  ;  to  the  Redondo  Beach  Hotel,  G.  W.  Lynch,  manager. 

Thursday,  May  II.  Eighteenth  Day. —  Leave  Redondo  Beach  by  the  Southern  California  road  at 
7.35  A.  M.,  and  Los  Angeles  by  the  Southern  Pacific  road  at  9.25  a.  m.,  and  arrive  at  Santa  Barbara  at 
1.45  p.  M. ;  omnibus  transfer  to  The  Arlington,  C.  C  Wheeler,  manager,  and  The  San  Marcos,  F.  A. 
Shepard,  manager. 

Friday,  May  12.  Nineteenth  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara.  Carriage  ride,  with  visits  to  the  most  inter- 
esting and  picturesque  parts  of  the  city  and  its  surroundings. 

Note. —  The  carriage  ride  may  be  taken  on  any  of  the  days  during  the  stay  here. 

Saturday,  May  13.     Twentieth  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

Sunday,  May  14.     Twenty  first  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

Monday,  May  15.     Twenty-second  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

Tuesday,  May  16.     Tiventy -third  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

Wednesday,  May  17.     Twenty-fourth  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

Thursday,  May  18.     Twenty-fifth  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

108 


Friday,  May  19.  Twenty-sixth  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara.  Omnibus  transfer  to  the  Southern 
Pacific  Company's  station,  and  leave  Santa  Barbara  at  9. 17  A.  M. ;  dinner  at  the  station  dining-room, 
Saugus  ;  supper  at  the  station  dining-room,  Mojave. 

Note. —  Parties  for  the  Yosemite  Valley  will  be  made  up  during  the  stay  at  Santa  Barbara,  to  leave 
on  different  days.     Seepage  175. 

Saturday,  May  20.  Twe?ity-sevenih  Day. —  On  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  line  en  route 
northward;  breakfast  at  the  st.ition  dining-room,  Lathrop;  arrive  at  Oakland  Pier  at  9.20  A.  M.,  and  in 
San  PVancisco  by  ferry  at  9.45  A.  M.;  transfer  from  the  Oakland  ferry,  foot  of  Market  street,  in  the 
coaches  of  the  United  Carriage  Company,  to  The  Baldwin,  E.  J.  Baldwin,  proprietor.  Col.  R.  H.  War- 
field,  manager,  and  The  California,  A.  F.  Kinzler,  manager. 

Sunday,  May  21.     Twenty-eighth  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

Monday,  May  22.     Twenty-7tinth  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

TufiSDAY,  May  23.  Thirtieth  Dxy. —  Transfer  from  The  Baldwin  and  The  California  to  the  Alameda 
ferry,  foot  of  Market  street,  and  leave  San  Francisco  by  the  Santa  Cruz  Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
Company's  line  at  8. 15  A.  M. ;  visit  the  "  Big  Trees  "  en  route,  and  arrive  in  Santa  Cruz  at  1.00  p.  m.  ; 
lunch  at  the  Pacific  Ocean  House,  W.  J.  McCollum,  proprietor,  the  Sea  Beach  Hotel,  J.  T.  Sullivan, 
proprietor,  the  Pope  Holise,  Mrs.  Pope,  proprietor,  or  the  Riverside  House,  Fred  Barson,  proprietor; 
carriage  ride,  visiting  the  beach,  cliff,  etc, ;  leave  Sania  Cruz  at  3.40  p.  m.,  and  proceed  to  Monterey  via 
Pajaro,  arriving  at  Hotel  del  Monte  station  at  6.15  p.m.;  carriage  transfer  to  the  Hotel  del  Monte, 
George  Schonewald,  manager. 

Wednesday,  May  24.     Thirty-first  Day. — At  Hotel  del  Monte,  Monterey. 

Thursday,  May  25.     Thirty-second  Day. — At  Hotel  del  Monte,  Monterey. 

Friday,  May  26.  Thirty-third  Day. — At  Hotel  del  Monte,  Monterey.  Transfer  to  the  Hotel  del 
Monte  station  and  leave  at  1.38  p.  m.  ;  arrive  in  San  Jose  at  4.21  p.  m.  ;  omnibus  transfer  to  the  Hotel 
Vendome,  George  P.  Snell,  Manager. 

Saturday,  May  27.  Thirty-fourth  Day. —  In  San  Jose.  Stage  excursion  to  the  Lick  Observatory, 
on  the  summit  of  Mount  Hamilton,  leaving  the  Hotel  Vendome  in  the  morning,  and  returning  in  the 
afternoon. 

109 


Sunday,  May  28.     Thirty-fifth  Day. —  In  San  Jose. 

Monday,  May  29.  Thirty-sixth  Day. —  In  San  Jose.  Transfer  to  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's 
station  (broad  guage  division)  and  leave  at  4.21  p.  m.  ;  arrive  in  San  Francisco  (station  corner  of  Third 
and  Townsend  streets)  at  6.10  p.  m.  ;  transfer  to  The  Baldwin  and  The  California  in  the  coaches  of  the 
United  Carriage  Company. 

Tuesday,  May  30.     Thirty-seventh  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

Wednesday,  May  31.  Thirty-eighth  Day. —  In  San  Francisco.  Transfer  from  The  Baldwin  and 
The  California  to  the  Market  street  ferry  in  the  coaches  of  the  United  Carriage  Company,  and  leave  San 
Francisco  by  ferry  at  4.30  p.  m.  ;  leave  Oakland  Pier  in  Pullman  palace  cars,  via  tiie  Southern  Pacific 
Company's  line  at  5.00  p.  m.  ;  arrive  in  Sacramento  at  8.40  p.  m.,  and  leave  at  9.00  p.  m. 

Thursday,  June  i.  Thirty-ninth  Day. —  During  the  day  on  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  Oregon 
line  en  route  through  the  upper  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  through  the  Mount  Shasta  region,  over  the 
Siskiyou  Mountains,  and  down  through  the  valley  of  the  Rogue  River. 

Friday,  June  2.  Fortieth  Day. —  On  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  Oregon  line  en  route  through 
the  valley  of  the  Willamette ;  arrive  in  Portland  at  7.35  a.  m.  ;  omnibus  transfer  to  The  Portland,  Charles 
E.  Leland,  manager  ;  carriage  ride  through  the  business  and  finest  residence  portions  of  the  city,  and  also 
to  the  park,  which  affords  a  grand  view  of  the  city,  the  river,  and  the  mountains. 

Saturday,  June  3,  Forty-first  Day. —  Transfer  to  the  Union  Pacific  station  and  leave  Portland  at 
8.45  A.  M.,fora  trip  up  the  most  picturesque  parts  of  the  Columbia  River;  return  by  steamer  down 
the  Columbia  and  up  the  Willamette  ;  arrive  in  Portland  at  5.30  p.  m.  ;  transfer  from  the  Ash  street  dock 
to  The  Portland. 

Sunday,  June  4.     Forty-second  Day. —  In  Portland. 

Monday,  June  5.  Forty-third  Day. —  In  Portland.  Omnibus  transfer  from  The  Portland  to  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad  station,  and  leave  at  2.00  p.  m.  ;  arrive  at  Tacoma  wharf  at  8.00  p.  m.,  and  go 
on  board  the  Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Company's  steamer  "  Queen,"  Capt.  James  Carroll,  for  the  Alaska 
voyage. 

IIO 


Tuesday,  June  6.     Forty-fourth  Day. 
Wednesday,  June  7.    Forty-fifth  Day. 
Thursday,  June  8.    Forty-sixth  Day. 
Friday,  June  9.    Forty-seve?ith  Day. 
Saturday,  June  10.     Forty-eighth  Day. 
Sunday,  June  11.    Forty-ninth  Day 
Monday,  June  12,     Fiftieth  Day. 
Tuesday,  June  13.     Fifty-first  Day. 
Wednesday,  June  14.     Fifty-second  Day. 
Thursday,  June  15.    Fifty-third  Day. 


On  the  Alaska  trip,  visiting  Fort  Wrangel,  Juneau, 
Douglas  Island,  Chilkaht,  the  great  Muir  Glacier  in 
Glacier  tJay,  Sitka,  etc.  The  steamer  will  return  to 
Port  Townsend,  Seattle,  anu  Tncoma  not  later  than 
Friday,  June  16  —  probably  on  Thursday. 


Note, —  On  the  Alaska  trip  steamer  time  varies  from  day  to  day  as  the  voyage  tends  westward.  The 
time  at  Sitka,  the  westernmost  point  reached  (135  degrees  and  52  minutes  west  from  Greenwich),  is  about 
one  hour  slower  than  Pacific  standard. 

Note. —  On  the  return  the  steamer  will  remain  at  Victoria,  B.  C.,  and  Port  Townsend  long  enough  to 
permit  of  an  inspection  of  those  cities.  Both  Seattle  and  Tacoma  will  also  be  visited,  and  for  the  better 
accommodation  of  all  it  may  be  deemed  advisable  to  divide  the  party  into  two  divisions,  one  of  which  will 
visit  Seattle  first  and  the  other  Tacoma.  The  Rainier,  De  L.  Harbaugh,  manager,  in  Seattle,  and  The 
Tacoma,  W.  K.  Hatch,  manager,  in  Tacoma,  will  be  the  sojourning-places  in  those  cities,  and  there  will 
be  coach  transfers  to  and  from  the  hotels. 

Friday,  June  16.    Fifty-fourth  Day. —  In  Seattle  and  Tacoma. 

Saturday,  June  17.  Fifty-fifth  Day. —  In  Seattle  and  Tacoma  (the  two  divisions  exchanging  places 
via  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  line). 

Sunday,  June  18.     Fifty-sixth  Day.—  In  Seattle  and  Tacoma. 

Monday,  June  19,  Fifty-seventh  Day. —  In  Seattle  and  Tacoma.  Omnibus  transfers  from  the  hotels 
to  the  stations,  and  leave  Seattle  at  2.55  p.  m.,  and  Tacoma  at  3.50  p.  m.,  via  the  Northern  Pacific  Rail- 
road. 

Tuesday,  June  20.  Fifty-eighth  Day. — Arrive  at  Spokane  at  7.00  a.  m.,  when  the  cars  will  be 
placed  upon  a  side  track ;  leave  Spokane  at  6.00  p.  m. 

Ill 


Wednesday,  June  21.  Fifty-ninth  Day. —  On  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  en  route  eastward 
through  Idaho  and  Montana;  arrive  at  Helena  at  12.40  p.  m.  ;  leave  Helena  at  10.35  p*  m. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Hope,  Id.,  from  Pacific  standard,  or  120th  meridian,  to  Mountain 
standard,  or  105th  meridian  —  one  hour  faster. 

Thursday,  June  22.  Sixtieth  Day. — Arrive  at  Livingston  at  3.45  a.  m.,  and  proceed  thence  via  the 
National  Park  Branch  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  to  Cinnabar;  leave  Cinnabar  by  stage  at  10.30 
A.  M. ;  arrive  at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  Hotel  at  12.30  p.  m. 

Friday,  June  23.  Sixty-first  Day. —  Leave  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  by. stage  at  8.00  a.  m.,  for  the 
tour  through  the  park;  arrive  at  Norris  Geyser  Basin  at  12.30  p.  m.  ;  dinner  there;  leave  Norris  Geyser 
Basin  at  1.30  p.  m.,  passing  near  the  principal  geysers  in  this  basin,  including  the  **  New  Crater,"  the 
"  Monarch,"  and  later  near  the  Gibbon  Falls;  arrive  at  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  Fountain  Hotel,  at 
6.30  p.  M. 

Saturday,  June  24.  Sixty-second  Day. —  Leave  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin  at  8.00  a.  m.,  and  visit  the 
Midway  Geyser  Basin,  which  contains  the  "  Excelsior"  Geyser  (*'  Hell's  Half  Acre  "),  ** Turquoise" 
Spring,  and  "Prismatic"  Lake;  arrive  at  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  Hotel  at  11.00  a.  m.  The  hotel  is 
situated  near  "  Old  Faithful,"  the  **  Bee  Hive,"  *'  Giantess,"  **  Castle,"  and  others  of  the  great  geysers. 

Sunday,  June  25.     Sixty -third  Day. — At  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin. 

Monday,  June  26.  Sixty-fourth  Day. —  Leave  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  at  8.00  A..M.,  and  proceed 
to  Yellowstone  Lake  via  West  Bay  or  '*  The  Thumb ; "  arrive  at  West  Bay  at  11.00  a.  m.,  and  lunch  there ; 
leave  at  2.00  p.  m.  ;  arrive  at  Yellowstone  Lake  at  5.00  p.  m. 

Tuesday,  June  27.  Sixty-fifth  Day.— V.fai\&  Yellowstone  Lake  at  10.00  a.m.;  arrive  at  Grand 
Canon  Hotel  at  i.oo  p.  m. 

Wednesday,  June  28.  Sixty-sixth  Day. —  Leave  Grand  Canon  Hotel  at  10.30  a.  m.  ;  arrive  at 
Norris  Geyser  Basin  at  12.30  p.  m.  ;  lunch  there;  leave  Norris  Geyser  Basin  at  1.30  p.  m. ;  arrive  at 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs  Hotel  at  5.30  p.  m. 

Thursday,  June  29.  Sixty-seventh  Day. —  Leave  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  at  2.00  p.m.;  arrive  at 
Cinnabar  at  3.30  p.  m.  ;  leave  Cinnabar  via  the  National  Park  Branch  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad 

112 


at  4.15  P.  M.,  and  arrive  at  Livingston  at  6.15  p.  m.  ;  leave  Livingston  at  6.40  p.  m.  on  the  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad,  main  line. 

Note.— In  case  it  is  deemed  advisable  to  divide  the  party  for  the  round  of  travel  through  the  park, 
one  division  will  reverse  the  foregoing  itinerary. 

Friday,  June  30.  Sixty-eighth  Day, —  On  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  en  route  through  Montana 
and  North  Dakota. 

NoTK. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Mandan,  N.  D.,  from  Mountain  standard,  or  losth  meridian,  to 
Central  standard,  or  90th  meridian  —  one  hour  faster. 

Saturday,  July  i.  Sixty-ninth  Day. —  On  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  en  route  through  North 
Dakota  and  Minnesota.  Arrive  in  Minneapolis  at  11.40  a.  m.;  omnibus  transfer  to  the  West  Hotel,  John 
T.  West,  proprietor ;  in  the  afternoon  carriage  ride,  with  visits  to  the  chief  business  and  residence  sections 
of  the  city,  the  great  flour  mills,  the  bridge  below  St.  Anthony's  Falls,  the  Exposition  Building,  the  Sus- 
pension Bridge,  etc. 

Sunday,  July  2.    Seventieth  Day. —  In  Minneapolis. 

Monday,  July  3.  Seventy-first  Day, —  Transfer  from  the  West  Hotel  to  the  Union  station  and  leave 
Minneapolis  at  9.55  a.  m.  ;  arrive  in  St.  Paul  at  10.30  a.  m.;  omnibus  transfer  to  the  Hotel  Ryan,  Eugene 
Mehl  &  Son,  proprietors;  in  the  afternoon,  carriage  ride,  visiting  the  finest  business  and  residence  sec- 
tions, the  Capitol,  Summit  avenue,  etc. 

Tuesday.  July  4,  Seventy-second  Day. —  In  St.  Paul.  Transfer  from  the  Hotel  Ryan  to  the  station 
of  the  Minneapolis  &  St   Louis  Railway,  and  leave  St.  Paul  via  the  Albert  Lea  route  at  7.00  p.  m. 

Wednesday,  July  5  Seventy-third  Day. —  Through  Iowa  and  Illinois  on  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island 
&  Pacific  Railway  (Albert  Lea  route).  Arrive  at  Blue  Island  Junction  about  i.oo  p.  m.,  and  at  Messrs. 
Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  Exposition  station,  on  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad,  Chicago,  at  2.30  p.  m.; 
transfer  to  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand. 

Thursday.  July  6.    Seventy-fourth  Day.—  In  Chicago. 

Friday,  July  7.     Seventy-fifth  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Saturday,  July  8.     Seventy-sixth  Day. —  In  Chicago. 


Sunday,  July  9.     Seventy  seventh  Day. —  In  Chicago, 

Monday,  July  10.     Seventy-eighth  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Tuesday,  July  11.     Seventy-ninth  Day, —  In  Chicago. 

Wednesday,  July  12.  Eightieth  Day. ^\nOa\C2i%o.  Transfer  from  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb 
Grand  to  Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  Exposition  station,  and  leave  Chicago  at  3.00  p.  m.  ;  to  Harvey,  111., 
over  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad,  and  thence  eastward  over  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Note. —  Passengers  who  return  to  Chicago  independently  must  notify  Carroll  Hutchins,  agent  for 
Messrs.  Raymond  &  Whitcomb,  at  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand,  Midway  Plaisance,  Chicago,  at 
least  one  week  in  advance  of  their  arrival,  in  order  to  insure  hotel  accommodations. 

Members  of  the  party  who  return  eastward  independently  from  Chicago  or  any  point  west  thereof 
will  be  required  to  exchange  their  eastbound  passage  and  sleeping-car  coupons  at  the  ticket  office  of  the 
Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  at  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway  Crossing,  Blue  Island  Junction ; 
or  at  the  Dearborn  station  (Polk  street,  at  the  head  of  Dearborn  street),  Chicago ;  or  at  the  city  ticket 
office  of  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  103  South  Clark  street,  Chicago,  E.  H.  Hughes,  agent; 
or  at  Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  office  in  the  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  Hotel,  Midway  Plaisance, 
Carroll  Hutchins,  agent.  All  applications  in  advance  for  sleeping-berths  should  be  addressed  to  Mr. 
Hutchins  or  Mr.  Hughes.  Niagara  Falls  is  the  only  point  east  of  Chicago  where  **  stop-over  "  privileges 
are  permitted. 

Thursday,  July  13.  Eighty-first  Day. — Arrive  at  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y.,  at  8.30  a.  m.,  and  remain 
there  until  afternoon ;  leave  Niagara  Falls  via  the  West  Shore  Railroad  at  4.42  v.  m.,  from  the  New 
York  Central  Railroad  station. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Port  Huron,  Mich.,  from  Central  standard,  or  90th  meridian,  to 
Eastern  standard,  or  75th  meridian  —  one  hour  faster. 

Friday,  July  14.  Eighty-second  Day. —  From  Rotterdam  Junction  eastward  via  the  Fitchburg 
Railroad ;  arrive  in  Boston  (Fitchburg  Railroad  station.  Causeway  street)  at  10.00  a.  m. 

In  the  course  of  the  tour  the  excursionists  will  pass  through  the  following  States 
and  Territories:  States — Massachusetts,  Vermont,  New  York,  Michigan,  Indiana, 
Illinois,  Iowa,  Missouri,  Kansas,  Colorado,  California,  Oregon,  Washington,  Idaho, 

114 


Montana,  Wyoming,  North  Dakota,  and  Minnesota  (i8).  Territories — New  Mexico, 
Arizona,  and  Alaska  (3) ;  and  also  the  Provinces  of  Ontario  and  British  Columbia  (2) 
in  the  Dominion  of  Canada.  The  distances  traveled,  not  including  the  side  trip  to  the 
Yosemite  Valley  or  the  incidental  carriage  rides,  but  reckoning  only  the  regular 
journeys  by  railway,  stage,  and  steamer,  will  be  as  follows  :  — 

Table  of  Distances. 

MILBS. 

From  Boston  to  Rotterdam  Junction,  N.  Y.,  Fitchburg  Railroad 212 

**     Rotterdam  Junction  to  Suspension  Bridge,  West  Shore  Railroad 292 

"     Suspension  Bridge  to  Port  Huron,  Mich.,  Southern  Division  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway 180 

'•     Port  Huron,  Mich.,  to  Blue  Island  Junction,  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway 311 

'•     Blue  Island  Junction  to  Kansas  City,  Mo.,  Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  Railway 50X 

"     Kansas  City  to  Pueblo,  Col.,  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad 635 

**     Pueblo  to  Parkdale  and  return  (102  miles),  Pueblo  to  Manitou(5i  miles),  Manitou  to  Denver 

(81  miles),  and  Denver  to  Pueblo  (120  miles),  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad 354 

**     Pueblo  to  La  Junta,  and  thence  to  Las  Vegas,  N.  M.  (279  miles).  Las  Vegas  to  Las  Vegas  Hot 

Springs  and  return  (12  miles),  Las  Vegas  to  Lamy  (65  miles),  Lamy  to  Santa  Fe  and  return 

(36  miles),  and  Lamy  to  Albuquerque  (68  miles),  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad 460 

"     Albuquerque  to  Barstow,  Cal. ,  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Railroad 747 

**     Barstow  to  San  Bernardino  (8i  miles),  San  Bernardino  to  Riverside  (9  miles),  and  Riverside  to 

San  Diego  (133  miles),  Southern  California  Railway  Company's  line 223 

**     San  Diego  to  Los  Angeles,  Southern  California  Railway  Company's  line 127 

**     Los  Angeles  to  Redondo  Beach  and  return.  Southern  California  Railway  Company's  line 45 

**     Los  Angeles  to  Pasadena  and  return.  Southern  California  Railway  Company's  line.. ' 18 

**     Los  Angeles  to  Santa  Barbara  (110  miles),  and  Santa  Barbara  to  San  Francisco  (528  miles). 

Southern  Pacific  Company's  Railway 638 

Distances  carried  forwaru 4»743 


MILES. 

Distances  brought  forward 4»743 

From  San  Francisco  to  Santa  Cruz,  Southern  Pacific  Company's  Santa  Cruz  (narrow  gauge)  Division    80 
"     Santa  Cruz  to  Monterey  (47  miles),  and  Monterey  to  San  Jose  (74  miles),  Southern  Pacific  Com- 
pany's Monterey  line - 121 

**     San  Jose  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Hamilton  and  return,  Mount  Hamilton  Stage  Company 52 

**     San  Jose  to  San  Francisco,  Southern  Pacific  Company's  Monterey  line 50 

**     San  Francisco  to  Portland,  Southern  Pacific  Company's  Mount  Shasta  route 772 

"     Portland  to  Bonneville  and  return,  Union  Pacific  Railway  and  steamer i. .   103 

"     Portland  to  Tacoma,  Wash.,  Pacific  Division  Nortliern  Pacific  Railroad 145 

"  Tacoma  to  Sitka  and  return  to  Seattle,  Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Company's  steamer  "  Queen  " 
—  Tacoma  to  Victoria  (no  miles),  Victoria  to  Fort  Wrangel  (680  miles),  Fort  Wrangel  to 
Juneau  (199  miles),  Juneau  to  Douglas  Island  (3  miles),  Douglas  Island  to  Chilkaht(89  miles), 
Chilkaht  to  Muir  Glacier  in  Glacier  Bay  (191  miles),  Muir  Glacier  to  Sitka  via  Icy  Strait 
(147  miles),  Sitka  to  Nanaimo  (1,027  miles  if  route  via  Juneau  and  Fort  Wrangel  is  taken,  or 
745  outside  Baranof  Island  and  through  Duke  of  Clarence  Strait),  Nanaimo  to  Victoria 
(78  miles),  and  Victoria  to  Seattle  via  Port  Townsend  (74  miles),  distances  given  in  nautical 

miles 2,598 

Add  to  above  for  difference  between  nautical  and  geographical,  or  statute  miles 397 

**     Seattle  to  Tacoma,  Northern  Pacific  Railroad 41 

"    Tacoma  to  Livingston,  Northern  Pacific  Railroad 904 

"     Livingston  to  Cinnabar,  Yellowstone  Park  Branch  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad 51 

"     Cinnabar  to  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  stage 7 

"     Mammoth  Hot  Springs  to  Norris  Geyser  Basin,  stage 22 

"     Norris  Geyser  Basin  to  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  stage 20 

**     Lower  Geyser  Basin  to  Upper  Geyser  Basin,  stage 8 

"     Upper  Geyser  Basin  to  Yellowstone  Lake,  stage 33 

'*    Yellowstone  Lake  to  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone,  stage 18 

Distances  carried  forward  10,165 

116 


MILES. 

Distances  brought  forward 10,165 

From  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone  to  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  stage 33 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs  to  Cinnabar,  stage 7 

Cinnabar  to  Livingston,  Yellowstone  Park  Branch  of  Northern  Pacific  Railroad 51 

Livingston  to  St.  Paul,  Northern  Pacific  Railroad ijoo/ 

St.  Paul  to  Albert  Lea,  Minn. ,  Minneapolis  &  St.  Louis  Railway 120 

Albert  Lea  to  West  Liberty,  la.,  Burlington,  Cedar  Rapids  &  Northern  Railway 191 

West  Liberty  to  Chicago  (Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Exposition  station),  Chicago,  Rock  Island  & 

Pacific  Railway  and  Illinois  Central  Railroad 220 

Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Exposition  station  to  Harvey,  111.,  Illinois  Central  Railroad 14 

Harvey  to  Port  Huron,  Mich.,  Chicago  &  GrandTrunk  Railway 308 

Port  Huron  to  Suspension  Bridge,  Southern  Division  of  Grand  Trunk  Railway 180 

Suspension  Bridge  to  Rotterdam  Junction,  N.  Y.,  West  Shore  Railroad 292 

Rotterdam  Junction  to  Boston,  Fitchburg  Railroad 212 

Total 12 ,800 


117 


HOTEL    DEL    MONTE,    MONTEREY. 


A    DELIGHTFUL    TOUR 
ACROSS   THE  CONTINENT 


AND     THROUGH      THE 


PACIFIC     N0KTHWE8T 


WITH    VISITS    TO 


Colorado,  New  Mexico,  Arizona,  California,  Oregon,  Wasliington,  the  Picturesque  Columbia 
River,    Puget  Sound,    British   Columbia,    Montana, 

THE  YELLOWSTONE  HATIOKAL  PARK, 

AND    THE 

World's     Columbian     Hxposition. 


The  Party  to  Leave  Boston  Monday,  April  24,  and  to  Return  Friday,  July  7. 


Price  of  Tickets  (aii  Traveling  and  Hotei  Expenses  Inciuded),  -  $600.00. 

RltYMOND    ©•    AVHIXCONIB, 

296    Washington    Street    (opposite    School    Street),    Boston. 

119 


Tentli  AiiDual  Spring  Excursion  to  Colorado,  Calllornla, 
THE  PACIFIC  NORTHWEST, 

And  the  YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK,  with  a  visit  to 
THE    COLUMBIAN    EXPOSITION. 


APRIL.     24:     TO    JULY     T,     1803. 


OUR  annual  spring  excursion  across  the  continent  and  through  the  wonderfully  pict- 
uresque regions  of  the  Pacific  Northwest,  which  has  been  exceedingly  popular 
during  the  past  nine  years,  will  be  made  as  attractive  as  ever  the  coming  season. 
This  trip  is  like  the  excursion  already  described,  except  that  the  Alaska  voyage  is 
omitted.  The  outward  journey  through  Colorado,  New  Mexico,  and  Arizona  will  possess 
peculiarinterest  on  account  of  its  many  attractive  features.  The  tour  through  California 
extends  from  one  end  of  the  Golden  State  to  the  other,  and  could  not  well  be  made 
more  comprehensive,  including,  as  it  does,  its  famous  picturesque  points,  its  groves 
and  gardens,  all  its  prominent  cities,  and  all  its  great  seashore,  health,  and  pleasure 
resorts.  The  journey  from  California  to  Oregon  is  to  be  made  over  the  magnificent 
Mount  Shasta  route,  and  the  round  of  travel  through  Oregon,  Washington,  and  the 
Puget  Sound  Region  will  be  quite  elaborate,  so  that  little  that  is  possible  in  the  way 
of  sight-seeing  is  left  undone.    The  return  trip  lies  over  the  entire  length  of  the  Northern 

121 


Pacific  Railroad  from  Portland  and  Tacoma  to  St.  Paul,  inclusive  of  its  picturesque 
Cascade  Division,  and  a  week  will  be  passed  in  inspecting  the  matchless  wonders  of 
the  Yellowstone  National  Park.  Another  week  is  to  be  devoted  to  the  World's 
Columbian  Exposition.  '' 

The  tour  will  thus  be  made  to  include  Kansas  City,  the  famous  Royal  Gorge,  Mani- 
tou  Springs,  Denver,  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs,  Santa  Fe,  Riverside,  San  Diego  and 
Coronado  Beach,  Redondo  Beach,  Los  Angeles,  Pasadena,  Santa  Barbara  (the 
Yosemite  Valley  and  Big  Tree  Groves  on  a  side  trip  if  desired),  San  Francisco, 
Monterey,  Santa  Cruz,  San  Jose,  the  summit  of  Mount  Hamilton,  Sacramento,  the 
Mount  Shasta  region,  Portland,  the  Columbia  River,  Multnomah  Falls,  Tacoma, 
Seattle,  Port  Townsend,  Victoria,  B.  C,  Spokane,  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille,  Helena,  all  the 
places  of  interest  within  the  Yellowstone  National  Park,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis,  and 
the  Niagara  Falls,  together  with  the  greatest  exhibition  of  the  products  of  human 
skill  and  industry  that  the  world  has  seen  —  a  truly  grand  list  of  places  to  be  visited, 
indicating  a  far-reaching  round  of  travel  along  almost  the  whole  extent  of  the  southern, 
western,  and  northern  borders  of  ouk  country.  An  examination  of  a  map  of  the 
United  States,  with  the  adjacent  British  possessions  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  will  give 
the  best  idea  of  the  wide  extent  and  comprehensiveness  of  this  pleasure  trip. 
Comfort  and  Luxury  in  Travel. 

A  feature  of  special  attractiveness  will  be  the  luxurious  accommodations  for  travel. 
The  journey  will  be  made  in  a  magnificent  train  of  vestibuled  Pullman  palace  cars, 
with  a  Pullman  palace  dining-car  included,  as  already  described  on  pages  4  and  5.  The 
vestibuled  train  is  the  latest  development  of  the  Pullman  palace  car,  and  combines 
many  comforts  and  luxuries  hitherto  unattainable  in  railway  traveling.  The  adoption 
of  a  dining-car  service  across  the  continent  is  a  feature  of  speciarl  importance  to  the 


passenger,  whose  meals  are  thus  assured  at  regular  hours,  in  spite  of  enforced  delays 
or  any  other  untoward  circumstance.  Competent  conductors  will  accompany  the 
party  to  study  the  welfare  of  its  members. 

The  route  of  the  excursion  will  be  set  forth  very  briefly,  inasmuch  as  it  is  the  same 
that  has  been  described  in  the  foregoing  pages  in  connection  with  the  Alaska  tour. 
We  would  refer  the  reader  to  pages  13-58  and  79-100  for  a  detailed  description  of 
the  regions  to  be  traversed,  the  population,  industries,'  and  characteristics  of  the  cities 
that  will  be  visited,  and  the  principal  objects  and  places  of  interest  to  sight-seers  ; 
and  to  pages  15-17  and  101-105  for  an  outline  of  the  main  features  of  the  World's 
Fair,  and  of  our  elaborate  provision  for  the  entertainment  of  the  party  in  Chicago 
upon  its  return  from  the  Pacific  Coast.  These  descriptive  pages  may  be  read  to 
advantage  in  connection  with  the  itinerary  to  be  given  hereafter. 

The  itineraries  of  the  two  parties  are  identical  from  the  time  of  starting,  April  24, 
until  their  arrival  in  Los  Angeles,  May  8.  They  travel  together  on  the  outward 
journey,  and  will  be  together  in  Santa  Barbara,  and  while  e7i  route  from  Santa  Barbara 
to  San  Francisco.  With  these  exceptions  they  will  travel  separately  after  reaching 
Los  Angeles;  but  the  same  points,  both  in  California  and  the  Pacific  Northwest,  will 
be  visited  (with  the  exception  of  Alaska),  tliough  on  different  dates.  The  return 
journey  from  Tacoma,  with  the  Yellowstone  National  Park  side  trip,  will  be  dupli- 
cated, and  both  parties  will  stop  one  week  in  Chicago  for  the  Exposition.  The 
sketch  of  the  former  trip  is  therefore  wholly  applicable  to  this  one,  with  the  single 
exception  of  the  voyage  from  Tacoma  to  Alaska  and  return. 

Price  of  Tickets. 

The  price  of  tickets  for  the  excursion,  as  described  in  the  following  pages,  will  be 
SIX  HUNDRED  DOLLARS.     This  sum  will  cover  first-class  travel  over  all  railway  and 

123 


steamer  routes  going  and  returning,  with  double  berths  in  Pullman  sleeping-cars;  all 
stage  rides  to  and  through  the  Yellowstone  National  Park ;  hotel  accommodations 
according  to  the  itinerary,  for  the  period  of  the  regular  tour  (seventy-five  days),  with 
sojourns  at  Denver,  Coronado  Beach,  Redondo  Beach,  Los  Angeles,  Santa  Barbara 
San  Francisco,  Monterey,  San  Jose,  Portland,  Seattle,  Victoria,  Tacoma,  the  Yellow- 
stone National  Park  (at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  Upper  Geyser 
Basin,  Yellowstone  Lake,  and  Yellowstone  Grand  Canon),  Minneapolis,  St.  Paul, 
The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  in  Chicago  for  one  week,  etc.  ;  meals  in  dining- 
cars,  at  hotels,  dining-stations,  or  on  steamers  en  route  ;  omnibus  or  carriage  transfers 
from  railway  stations  to  hotels,  and  vice  versa^  wherever  the  same  may  be  needed 
(Denver,  San  Diego,  Los  Angeles,  Santa  Barbara,  San  Francisco,  Monterey,  San  Jose, 
Portland,  Seattle,  Victoria,  Tacoma,  Minneapolis,  St.  Paul,  and  Chicago) ;  special 
carriage  rides  in  Manitou,  Denver,  Pasadena,  Santa  Barbara,  Portland,  Victoria,  Min- 
neapolis, and  St.  Paul ;  all  expenses  for  transportation,  transfer,  and  care  of  baggage, 
(to  the  extent  of  150  pounds  for  each  person,  all  over  that  amount  to  be  liable  to 
excess  charges  at  regular  transportation  rates),  and  the  services  of  the  conductors, — 
in  short,  every  needed  expense  of  the  entire  round  trip  from  Boston  back  to 
Boston. 

Price  for  children  between  the  ages  of  five  and  twelve  years,  five  hundred  and 
fifteen  dollars.  This  includes  a  separate  sleeping-berth  throughout  the  entire 
journey,  the  same  as  for  an  adult.  Where  no  separate  berth  is  required,  the  price  for 
children  between  the  ages  of  five  and  twelve  years  will  be  four  hundred  and 
SIXTY  dollars. 

Price  of  tickets  for  the  Yosemite  Valley  trip,  thirty-five  dollars,  in  addition  to 
cost  of  ticket  for  the  regular  excursion.     See  page  175. 

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Extra  Sleeping-Car  Accommodations. 

The  cost  of  an  extra  double  berth  (giving  an  entire  section  to  one  person),  for  the 
journey  between  Boston  and  San  Bernardino  or  San  Diego,  is  $25 ;  drawing-room 
for  one  occupant,  ^67  ;  for  two  occupants,  ^42  — ;^2i  for  each  passenger;  for  three 
occupants  entire  extra  charge,  $iy. 

The  charges  for  extra  sleeping-car  accommodations  between  Los  Angeles  (or  Santa 
Barbara)  and  San  Francisco  are  as  follows  :  Extra  double  berth,  $2.50;  drawing-room 
for  one  occupant,  $6.50;  drawing-room  for  two  occupants,  ^4,  or  $2  each;  drawing- 
room  for  three  occupants,  entire  extra  charge,  $1.50. 

The  cost  of  an  extra  double  berth  from  San  Francisco  to  Tacoma  is  $y  ;  drawing- 
room  for  one  occupant,  ^18;  drawing-room  for  two  occupants,  $11  —  $5.50  for  each 
passenger;  drawing-room  for  three  occupants,  entire  extra  charge,  $4. 

For  an  extra  double  berth  from  Tacoma  to  Boston,  $21  ;  drawing-room  for  one 
occupant,  ^58;  drawing-room  for  two  occupants,  ^37  —  ^18.50  for  each  passenger; 
drawing-room  for  three  occupants,  entire  extra  charge,  ^16. 

A  complete  outline  of  the  trip  is  given  on  following  pages.  The  party  will  neces- 
sarily be  limited  in  numbers.  An  early  registration  is  therefore  desirable.  Tickets 
must  be  taken  on  or  before  Wednesday,  April  19 — five  days  previous  to  the  date  of 
departure.  W.  RAYMOND. 

I.  A.  WHITCOMB. 


•  Tickets  for  the  excursion,  additional  copies  of  this  circular,  and  all  needed 
information  can  be  obtained  of 

RAYMOND  &  WHITCOMB,  296  Washington  St.  (opposite  School  St.),  Boston. 


A  SKETCH  OF  THE  TRIP. 


From  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Setting  out  from  Boston  in  special  Pullman  vestibuled  cars,  with  a  dining-car 
attached,  by  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  and  West  Shore  route,  at  4.00  p.  m.,  Monday,  April 
24,  the  tourists  will  proceed  westward  through  Massachusetts  and  New  York.  From 
Suspension  Bridge  the  train  will  continue  over  the  Southern  Division  of  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  to  Port  Huron,  Mich.,  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway  from  Port 
Huron  to  Blue  Island  Junction,  111.,  and  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  Railway 
from  the  latter  place  to  Kansas  City.  The  train  will  reach  Kansas  City  Thursday 
morning,  and  halt  there  several  hours.     (See  pages  20-22.) 

From  this  point  through  Kansas  and  into  Colorado,  and  later  on  through  New  Mex- 
ico, we  travel  over  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad.  The  State  of  Kansas 
is  traversed  for  486  miles, — from  Kansas  City  to  the  Colorado  line, —  far  enough  to 
afford  the  traveler  a  pretty  thorough  inspection  of  this  section  of  the  *'  great  plains." 

At  La  Junta  we  diverge  from  the  main  line  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe 
Railroad  for  a  detour  amid  some  of  the  great  scenic  wonders  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
We  go  first  to  Pueblo  over  a  branch  of  the  Santa  Fe  line,  and  from  thence  over  the 
Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  to  the  famous  Royal  Gorge,  a  part  of  the  Grand  Canon 
of  the  Arkansas.  The  train  will  pass  through  the  gorge  and  then  return,  and,  continu- 
ing on  through  Pueblo,  proceed  to  Manitou,  where  there  will  be  a  carriage  ride  and 
other  opportunities  for  sight-seeing  Saturday  forenoon,  April  29.  In  the  afternoon 
the  train  is  to  run  to  Denver,  where,  after  the  party  has  been  transferred  to  Brown's 

126 


Palace  Hotel,  another  carriage  ride  will  follow.  We  spend  Sunday  in  Denver  and 
leave  in  the  night  for  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs,  traveling  once  more  from  Pueblo  via 
La  Junta  over  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  track.     (Pages  23-25.) 

Crossing  the  boundary  line  between  Colorado  and  the  Territory  of  New  Mexico  at 
the  summit  of  the  Raton  Mountains,  we  traverse  the  latter  for  nearly  500  miles 
before  reaching  the  borders  of  Arizona.  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs  is  six  miles  from  the 
city  of  Las  Vegas.  From  this  place  we  cross  the  Glorieta  mountains,  and  visit  the 
quaint  old  capital  of  the  Territory  —  Santa  Fe  —  a  city  which  today  is  more  Mexican 
than  American.  On  leaving  Santa  Fe,  we  descend  the  Rio  Grande  Valley  through  a 
number  of  Mexican  and  native  towns,  and  reach  Albuquerque,  from  which  we  turn 
westward  towards  Arizona  and  California.  Our  passage  through  Arizona  on  the 
Atlantic  &  Pacific  road  will  be  rendered  interesting,  as  we  are  to  see  the  Caiion  Diablo, 
and  journey  near  the  lofty  San  Francisco  Mountains.     (Pages  26-32.) 

Southern  California. 

We  cross  the  Colorado  River  into  Southern  California  at  the  Needles,  and  enter 
upon  a  desert  plain,  from  which  we  emerge  through  the  Cajon  Pass  over  the  Southern 
California  Railway  into  the  cultivated  valley  around  San  Bernardino,  on  Thursday, 
May  4.  From  San  Bernardino  the  train  proceeds  to  Riverside,  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful towns  upon  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  the  centre  of  the  orange  culture,  and  thence  to 
San  Diego,  reaching  there  Friday  morning.  The  magnificent  Hotel  del  Coronado,  on 
Coronado  Beach,  on  the  opposite  side  of  San  Diego  Bay,  will  be  the  abiding  place 
from  that  time  until  Monday  morning.     (Pages  33-37.) 

From  San  Diego  we  return  northward  to  Los  Angeles,  and  from  that  city  go  imme- 
diately to  Redondo  Beach  (page  39)  for  a  two-days'  stay,  coming  back  to  Los  Angeles 

127 


(page  38)  Wednesday  morning.  On  Thursday  there  will  be  an  excursion  to  Pasadena 
and  its  delightful  neighborhood  (page  39),  Friday,  like  Wednesday,  is  to  be  devoted 
to  Los  Angeles  itself,  and  Saturday  morning,  May  13,  the  party  will  take  the  Southern 
Pacific  train  for  Santa  Barbara. 

Considerable  time  is  assigned  to  Santa  Barbara  (page  40),  as  the  parties  for  the 
Yosemite  Valley  will  be  made  up  here.  Instead  of  going  in  one  large  body,  those 
who  intend  to  visit  the  Valley  will  take  their  departure  in  small  bodies  on  different 
days.  This  will  be  to  the  advantage  of  all.  The  dates  of  departure  of  the  several 
detachments  will  be  arranged  as  far  as  possible  to  meet  individual  wishes.  There 
will  be  a  carriage  ride  at  Santa  Barbara,  and  ample  time  to  see  both  that  city  and  the 
Yosemite  Valley  without  hurry  or  unnecessary  fatigue.  The  Yosemite  trip  is  described 
on  pages  175-178. 

San  Francisco  and  Vicinity  —  Portland. 

Those  members  of  the  party  who  go  directly  north  without  visiting  the  Yosemite 
are  to  leave  Santa  Barbara  Friday,  May  19,  and  arrive  in  San  Francisco  the  following 
day.  For  an  outline  of  the  route,  including  the  wonderful  "Loop,"  see  pages  41-42. 
The  headquarters  of  the  tourists  in  San  Francisco  (pages  42-45)  will  be  at  two  of  the 
the  finest  city  hotels  on  the  Pacific  coast, —  the  Baldwin  or  The  California, —  and 
nearly  ten  days  will  be  spent  there  first  and  last. 

Departing  from  San  Francisco,  Friday,  May  26,  for  visits  to  the  popular  resorts 
south  of  that  city,  the  party  will  proceed  first  to  Santa  Cruz,  where  the  "  Big  Trees," 
the  beach,  the  cliffs,  and  other  sights  will  be  seen.  The  journey  will  then  be  con- 
tinued to  Monterey  and  the  famous  Hotel  del  Monte.  Three  days  are  assigned  to 
this  charming  resort.  (See  pages  45-48.)  Leaving  Monterey  Monday  afternoon  we 
shall  proceed  to  San  Jose.    (Page  49.)     In  that  city  the  Hotel  Vendome  will  be  the 

128 


sojourning  place  of  the  party  until  Thursday  afternoon,  June  i.  On  Tuesday  there 
will  be  an  excursion  by  stage  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Hamilton,  where  the  lick 
Observatory  is  situated.  (Page  49.)  The  party  is  to  return  to  San  Francisco  for  the 
second  time  on  Thursday,  and  remain  there  until  Monday  afternoon,  June  5. 

On  the  departure  from  San  Francisco  for  Portland,  Ore.,  by  the  Southern  Pacific 
Company's  line,  the  route  will  be  first  to  Sacramento,  the  capital  of  California 
(page  51),  and  thence  northward  up  the  entire  length  of  the  great  Sacramento  Valley, 
past  Mount  Shasta,  over  the  Siskiyou  range,  and  down  through  the  valley  of  the 
Rogue  River.  Portland  will  be  reached  Wednesday  morning,  and  the  party  will  have 
a  carriage  ride  through  the  city  and  the  park,  which  commands  a  magnificent  view  of 
the  Willamette  Valley,  with  Portland  in  the  foreground  and  snow-clad  mountam 
peaks  in  the  distance.  The  following  day  is  to  be  devoted  to  a  trip  by  rail  up  the 
noble  Columbia  River  to  Bonneville  and  return  by  steamer  —  one  of  the  most 
picturesque  river  voyages  in  the  world.  (Pages  53-56.)  In  Portland  the  mag- 
nificent new  hotel.  The  Portland,  will  be  the  resting  place. 

Puget   Sound   and   Eastward. 

Leaving  Portland  by  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Friday  morning,  June  9,  several 
days  are  to  be  passed  upon  Puget  Sound  and  in  the  interesting  cities  lying  upon  its 
shores.  First  visiting  Seattle  (page  81),  we  shall  make  our  headquarters  at  The 
Rainier.  On  Saturday,  taking  one  of  the  steamers  of  the  Puget  Sound  &  Alaska 
Division  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Company,  the  party  will  proceed  down  the  sound 
to  Victoria,  touching  at  Port  Townsend  (page  80)  on  the  way.  Sunday  will  be 
passed  at  Victoria.  (Page  79.)  The  British  Columbian  capital  contains  much  to 
interest  the  stranger.     There  will  be  a  carriage  ride  Saturday  afternoon,  immediately 

129 


upon  arrival.  The  party  will  stop  at  The  Driard.  The  boat  will  return  to  Tacoma 
Monday  morning,  and  the  passengers  will  be  transferred  to  The  Tacoma.  (Page  82.) 
The  party  will  turn  eastward  Tuesday  afternoon,  June  13,  first  journeying  across  the 
Cascade  Mountains  and  through  Eastern  Washington,  over  the  Northern  Pacific  Rail- 
road. This  line  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Puyallup,  and,  crossing  to  the  Green  River, 
makes  its  way  to  the  Stampede  Pass,  where  it  pierces  the  mountains  by  means  of  a 
tunnel  nearly  10,000  feet  in  length.  Emerging  on  the  eastern  face  of  the  mountains, 
it  descends  to  the  Yakima  River,  which  stream  is  followed  down  to  its  confluence 
with  the  Columbia.  After  crossing  the  Columbia  near  Pasco  we  continue  through 
Eastern  Washington,  a  distance  of  165  miles  farther,  in  a  slightly  altered  course,  the 
railway  bending  northward  in  order  to  round  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille  and  the  Coeur 
d'Alene  hills.  This  brings  us  through  Sprague,  Cheney,  and  Spokane.  Spokane 
(page  83)  is  destined  to  be  one  of  the  great  manufacturing  and  business  centres  of  the 
West.  It  is  already  an  important  railway  centre.  We  then  cross  the  northern  end 
of  Idaho,  ascend  Clark's  Fork,  and  traverse  Western  Montana  while  approaching  the 
Yellowstone  National  Park.     (Pages  84-86.) 

The  Yellowstone  National  Park. 

We  shall  reach  the  Park  via  the  branch  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  from 
Livingston  to  Cinnabar  Thursday,  June  15,  and  pass  an  entire  week  in  inspecting  its 
marvels.  The  same  grand  round  will  be  made  that  is  described  in  connection  with 
the  Alaska  tour  on  pages  86-96.  This  is  more  extended  than  tourists  generally 
take-,  since  it  includes  a  visit  to  the  picturesque  Yellowstone  Lake  and  a  longer  sojourn 
at  the  leading  points  of  interest  than  is  usually  made.  The  Mammoth  Hot  Springs 
will  first  be  visited.     On  Friday  morning  the  party  will  enter  upon  its  journey  through 

130 


the  Park  in  commodious  and  comfortable  stages,  and  the  various  rides  from  place  to 
place  will  be  found  a  source  of  enjoyment  aside  from  the  wonders  they  disclose.  The 
forenoon's  jaunt  takes  the  visitor  up  through  the  romantic  "  Golden  Gate,"  out  past 
the  "  Obsidian  Cliffs,"  and  to  the  Norris  Geyser  Basin.  It  is  here  that  the  first  gey- 
sers are  seen.  From  Norris  Geyser  Basin  we  journey  southward  to  Fountain  Hotel 
in  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  passing  through  the  Gibbon  Canon,  and  near  the  Gibbon 
Falls.  The  main  attractions  in  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin  are  the  "  Fountain  "  Geyser, 
and  the  "  Mammoth  Paint  Pots."  Midway  between  the  Lower  and  Upper  Basins  are 
the  Great  "  Excelsior"  Geyser,  "  Turquoise  "  Spring,  and  "  Prismatic  "  Lake,  all  veri- 
table marvels  in  their  way.  The  "  Excelsior  "  is  the  largest  known  geyser  in  the  world. 
We  visit  them  Saturday  morning  and  spend  Sunday  at  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  Hotel. 

The  Upper  Geyser  Basin  contains  all  the  great  geysers  except  the  ones  we  have 
named  and  one  or  two  others,  and  is  therefore  the  chief  centre  of  attraction,  so  far  as 
jthese  things  are  concerned.  The  great  fountains  are  scattered  through  the  basin,  the 
"  Fan,"  "  Mortar,"  and  "  Riverside "  being  at  one  extremity  and  "  Old  Faith- 
ful "  at  the  other.  The  latter  is  quite  near  the  hotel,  and  its  hourly  displays  may 
be  watched  without  leaving  the  veranda.  The  "  Grotto,"  "  Splendid,"  "  Giant,"  and 
"Oblong"  are  near  the  northern  end  of  the  basin,  all  except  the  "  Splendid"  being 
quite  near  the  road.  The  "Castle  "  is  also  beside  the  road  and  nearer  the  hotel,  and 
the  "  Bee  Hiv'e,"  "  Giantess,"  and  the  "  Lion  "  group  are  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Fire- 
hole  River,  opposite  the  hotel.     The  "  Grand  "  is  half  a  mile  below,  on  the  same  side. 

After  our  visit  to  the  Upper  Basin  we  shall  proceed  on  Monday  via  the  new  stage 
road  to  Yellowstone  Lake.  This  part  of  our  journey  takes  us  over  the  continental 
divide  and  back  again.  After  visiting  West  Bay,  or  "The  Thumb,"  we  go  on  to  the 
outlet  of  the  lake,  where  a  large  hotel  has  been  erected.     Yellowstone  Lake  lies  at  an 

131 


elevation  of  7,741  feet,  with  high  mountains  upon  one  side  and  an  exquisitely  beauti- 
ful shore  line.  Some  of  the  mountain  peaks  are  between  3,000  and  4,000  feet  above 
the  lake. 

The  Yellowstone  Falls  and  Caiion  will  next  claim  our  attention.  The  river  here 
flows  in  a  deep  channel  bordered  by  high  walls  of  many  hues.  The  visitor  may  in 
places  look  down  into  an  abyss  1,000  feet  or  more  deep,  whose  walls  are  masses  of 
brilliant  color.     Into  this  great  chasm  pour  all  the  floods  of  the  Yellowstone. 

From  this  place  we  return  by  a  direct  route  to  Norris  Geyser  Basin,  passing  the 
Virginia  Cascades  on  the  way,  and  thence  continue  on  to  Mammoth  Hot  Springs, 
thus  terminating  our  park  journey,  with  the  exception  of  the  farther  stage  ride  to 
Cinnabar,  where  our  special  train  will  be  found  in  waiting. 

Eastward  from  the   Yellowstone    Region. 

We  shall  leave  the  Yellowstone  National  Park  Thursday,  June  22,  and  returning 
on  our  train  to  Livingston,  there  resume  our  journey  over  the  main  line  of  the  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad  (pages  96-98)  down  the  Yellowstone  Valley  and  across  Montana, 
North  Dakota  and  Minnesota  to  Fargo  and  Minneapolis,  arriving  at  the  latter  place 
Saturday,  June  24.  We  shall  visit  the  two  great  sister  cities  of  Minnesota  —  Minneap- 
olis and  St.  Paul  —  in  the  order  named,  and  a  carriage  ride  will  aid  in  each  instance  to 
give  the  stranger  a  comprehensive  idea  of  the  many  interesting  features  to  be  seen. 
(Pages  99,100.)  The  party  is  to  leave  St.  Paul  Tuesday  evening,  June  27,  by  the 
Albert  Lea  Route,  a  part  of  the  popular  Rock  Island  system,  being  made  up  of  the 
following  named  roads:  The  Minneapolis  &  St.  Louis  Railway  from  Minneapolis  to 
Albert  Lea,  Minn.;  tiie  Burlington,  Cedar  Rapids  &  Northern  Railway  from  Albert 
Lea  to  West  Liberty,  la. ;  and  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  Railway  thence  to 
Chicago.  This  line  traverses  some  of  the  richest  portions  of  Minnesota,  Iowa,  and 
132 


Illinois.  The  party  will  be  due  in  Chicago,  at  Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  Exposition 
station,  Madison  avenue  and  Sixty-first  street,  Wednesday  afternoon,  and  will  be 
transferred  to  the  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  Hotel,  Midway  Plaisance,  Madison 
and  Washington  avenues. 

The  World's  Fair  and  then  Home. 

A  stay  of  seven  days  at  the  Columbian  Exposition  is  provided  for.  The  Raymond 
&  Whitcomb  Grand,  which  has  been  built  expressly  for  the  accommodation  of  our 
parties,  and  will  be  found  described  at  length  on  pages  15-17,  is  situated  only  1,000 
feet  from  one  of  the  main  entrances  to  the  Fair  grounds.  There  will  thus  be  no  waste 
of  time  or  strength  in  visiting  the  exhibition.  For  an  account  of  the  scope  of  the 
Exposition,  the  buildings,  grounds,  and  general  arrangements,  the  reader  is  referred 
to  pages  101-105.  The  stop  in  Chicago  will  justly  be  considered  one  of  the  most 
attractive  parts  of  the  entire  tour. 

The  city  of  Chicago  itself  is  not  the  least  interesting  feature  of  the  vast  display. 
No  other  American  city  could  so  fully  illustrate  the  country's  enterprise,  push,  and 
substantial  progress.  It  covers  an  area  of  no  less  than  180  square  miles,  its  frontage 
on  the  lake  extending  21  miles,  and  its  extreme  length  between  its  north  and  south 
lines  being  24  miles.  If  extends  back  from  the  lake  from  5  to  11  miles.  London 
covers  118  square  miles,  and  Paris  30.  It  is  a  typical  American  city,  and  yet  cosmo- 
politan. Outside  of  London,  it  is  doubtful  if  any  city  in  the  world  can  show  as  large 
and  as  varied  foreign  population  as  Chicago.  Of  its  1,208,669  inhabitants  in  1890, 
only  292,463  were  American,  384,958  being  German,  215,534  Iri^h,  54,209  Bohemian, 
52,756  Polish,  45,877  Swedish,  44,615  Norwegian,  33,785  English,  12,963  French,  11,927 
Scotch,  9,977  Russian,  9,921  Italian,  and  9,891  Danish,  while  Canadians,  Hollanders, 
^33 


Hungarians,  Roumanians,  Welsh,  Swiss,  and  Mongolians  were  also  numbered  by 
thousands.  No  less  than  35  steam  railway  lines  enter  the  city.  There  are  2,335  i^iles 
of  streets,  74  miles  of  boulevards,  and  396  miles  of  street  railway  tracks.  The  public 
parks  cover  2,123  acres;  Washington  and  Jackson  on  the  South  side,  Lincoln  on  the 
North  side,  and  Douglas,  Garfield,  and  Humboldt  on  the  West  side,  being  the  chief 
of  these.  Fifty-six  bridges  cross  the  Chicago  River  and  its  branches,  and  there  are 
three  tunnels  beneath  the  streams.  There  are  221  school  edifices  valued  at  over 
^5^1 1,000,000,  with  2,920  teachers  and  139,000  pupils.  The  police  force  includes  1,900 
men,  and  the  fire  department  913,  with  89  fire-engine  houses.  There  are  1,370 
employes  in  the  post-office.  The  great  fire  of  187 1  swept  over  2,100  acres,  destroying 
18,000  buildings,  and  $192,000,000  worth  of  property,  and  rendered  100,000  persons 
homeless.  The  city  contains  465  places  of  public  worship,  and  32  regular  places  of 
amusement.  The  press  is  represented  by  531  different  journals,  of  which  26  are  daily 
publications.  Several  of  the  latter  are  German,  and  one  each  Swedish  and  Nor- 
wegian, while  several  other  languages  are  represented  by  the  weeklies.  The  water- 
works plant  represents  a  value  of  $50,000,000,  and  has  a  capacity  of  300,000,000  gallons 
daily.     One  of  the  supply  tunnels  extends  four  miles  out  into  the  lake. 

Leaving  Chicago  Wednesday  afternoon,  July  5,  the  party  will  be  transferred  from 
The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  to  Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  station,  from  which  the 
train  will  start  for  the  East  at  3.00  o'clock.  The  route  is  via  the  Illinois  Central  Rail- 
road to  Harvey,  and  thence  by  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  and  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
ways to  Niagara  Falls.  We  shall  arrive  at  Niagara  Falls  Thursday  morning,  and  the 
day  may  be  passed  in  visiting  the  great  cataract  and  its  surroundings.  (Page  105.) 
The  train  will  leave  Niagara  Falls  Thursday  afternoon,  and  arrive  in  Boston  Friday 
morning,  July  7,  via  the  West  Shore  and  Fitchburg,  or  Hoosac  Tunnel,  route. 

134 


In  the  course  of  the  tour  the  party  will  pass  through  the  following  States  and  Terri- 
tories :  States  —  Massachusetts,  Vermont,  New  York,  Michigan,  Indiana,  Illinois, 
Iowa,  Missouri,  Kansas,  Colorado,  California,  Oregon,  Washington,  Idaho,  Montana, 
Wyoming,  North  Dakota,  and  Minnesota  (i8)  ;  Territories  —  New  Mexico,  Arizona 
(2)  ;  and  also  the  Provinces  of  Ontario  and  British  Columbia  (2)  in  the  Dominion  of 
Canada. 

The  itinerary  in  detail  will  be  as  follows,  subject  only  to  such  slight  variations  as 
may  be  necessary  on  account  of  changes  in  the  hours  of  departure  and  arrival  of 
regular  trains  and  steamers,  or  similar  reasons:  — 

ITINERARY. 

Monday,  April  24.  First  Day. —  Leave  Boston  from  the  Fitchburg  Railroad  station.  Causeway 
street,  at  4.00  p.  m.,  and  proceed  westward  by  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  route.  The  transcontinental  journey 
will  be  made  in  a  train  of  magnificent  Pullman  vestibuled  palace  cars,  including  a  palace  dining-car. 
On  arrival  at  the  station  members  of  the  party  should  check  their  baggage  to  Denver,  Col.  The  checks 
will  be  taken  up  by  the  baggage-master  of  the  party,  who  will  attend  to  the  delivery,  collection,  and 
transportation  of  the  baggage  during  the  trip.  Tags  are  supplied  with  the  excursion  tickets,  and  these, 
with  the  owner's  name  and  home  address  plainly  inscribed  thereon,  should  be  attached  to  every  trunk, 
valise,  or  other  piece  of  baggage,  to  serve  as  a  ready  means  of  identification.  Hand  luggage  must  be 
looked  after  by  the  passengers. 

Tuesday,  April  25.  Second  Day. —  On  the  West  Shore  Railroad  en  route  westward;  arrive  at 
Buffalo  at  9.50  a.  m.  ;  leave  Buffalo  at  10.00  a.  m.  ;  from  Suspension  Bridge  westward  via  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway;  from  Port  Huron  westward  on  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Port  Huron,  Mich.,  from  Eastern  standard,  or  75th  meridian,  to 
Central  standard,  or  90th  meridian  — one  hour  slower. 

Wednesday,  April  26.  Third  Day, —  From  Blue  Island  Junction  westward  via  the  Chicago,  Rock 
Island  &  Pacific  Railway. 


Thursday,  April  27.  Fourth  Day. —  Arrive  at  Kansas  City  at  6.00  a.m.;  leave  Kansas  City  at 
11.30  A.  M.,  via  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad,  and  proceed  westward  through  Kansas. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Dodge  City,  Kan.,  from  Central  standard,  or  90th  meridian,  to 
Mountain  standard,  or  105th  meridian — one  hour  slower. 

Friday,  April  28.  Fifth  Day.—  Kxx'wo.  at  Pueblo  at  10.00  a.  m.  ;  leave  Pueblo  at  12.00  m.,  via  the 
Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  for  a  visit  to  the  famous  Royal  Gorge  ;  return  to  Pueblo,  and  thence 
proceed  over  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  to  Manitou. 

Saturday,  April  29.  Sixth  Day. —  Arrive  at  Manitou  at  an  early  hour,  the  cars  being  placed  upon 
aside-track;  carnage  ride,  visiting  the  chief  points  of  interest,  including  the  Garden  of  the  Gods,  Ute 
Pass,  Rainbow  Falls,  etc. ;  leave  Manitou  at  i.oo  p.  m.  via  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  and 
arrive  in  Denver  at  4.00  p.  m.  ;  omnibus  transfer  from  the  Union  station  to  Brown's  Palace  Hotel,  and  a 
carriage  ride  about  the  city,  visiting  the  principal  places  of  interest. 

Sunday,  April  30.  Seventh  Day. —  In  Denver.  Omnibus  transfer  from  the  hotel  to  the  cars  at 
9.00  p.  M. 

Monday,  May  i.  Eighth  Day. —  Leave  Denver  soon  after  midnight  via  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande 
Railroad ;  from  Pueblo  southward  via  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad  ;  arrive  at  Las  Vegas, 
N.  M.,at  11.30  A.  M. ;  thence  by  the  Hot  Springs  Branch  to  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs,  arriving  there  at 
12.00  M. ;  leave  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs  at  3.00  p.  m.,  and  Las  Vegas  at  3.30  p.  m.  ;  cross  the  Glorieta 
Pass  by  daylight,  and  proceed  from  Lamy  Junction  to  Santa  Fe  by  branch  line;  arrive  at  Santa  Fe  at 
10.00  p.  M.,  the  passengers  remaining  on  the  cars. 

Tuesday,  May  2.  Ninth  Day.  —  Ai  Santa  Fe.  Leave  Santa  Fe,  via  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa 
Fe  Railroad,  at  12.00  m.;  arrive  at  Albuquerque  at  4.00  p.  m.;  leave  Albuquerque,  via  the  Atlantic  & 
Pacific  Railroad  (Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  system),  at  5.00  p.  m. 

Wednesday,  May  3.     Tenth  Day.  — En  route  through  Arizona  on  the  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Railroad. 

Thursday,  May  4.  Eleventh  Day. —  Arrive  at  Barstow,  Cal.,  at  5.00  a.  m.  ;  thence  south  via  the 
Southern  California  Railway  (Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  system);  arrive  at  San  Bernardino  at  11.00 
A.  M.,  and  at  Riverside  at  12.00  m.  ;  leave  Riverside  at  8.00  p.  m. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Barstow  from  Mountain  standard,  or  105th  meridian,  to  Pacific 
standard,  or  120th  meridian  —  one  hour  slower. 

136 


Friday,  May  5.  Twelfth  Day. —  Arrive  at  San  Diego  at  7.00  a.  m.  ;  omnibus  transfer  from  the 
station  to  the  Hotel  del  Coronado,  Coronado  Beach,  E.  S.  Babcock,  manager. 

Saturday,  May  6.     Thirteenth  Day. —  At  the  Hotel  del  Coronado,  Coronado  Beach. 

Sunday,  May  7.    Fourteenth  Day. —  At  the  Hotel  del  Coronado,  Coronado  Beach. 

Monday,  May  8.  Fifteenth  Day. —  Omnibus  transfer  from  the  Hotel  del  Coronado  to  the  station  of 
the  Southern  California  Railway,  and  leave  San  Diego  at  8.40  a.  m.  by  the  coast  line;  arrive  at  Redondo 
Beach  at  2.15  p.  m.  ;  to  the  Redondo  Beach  Hotel,  G.  W.  Lynch,  manager. 

Tuesday,  May  9.    Sixteenth  Day.—  At  Redondo  Beach. 

Wednesday,  May  10,  Seventeenth  Day. —  Leave  Redondo  Beach  by  the  Southern  California  Rail- 
way at  7.35  a.m.,  and  arrive  in  Los  Angeles  at  8.29  a.  m.  ;  omnibus  transfer  to  The  Westminster, 
O.  T.  Johnson,  proprietor,  M.  M.  Potter,  manager,  and  The  Hollenbeck,  E.  G.  Fay  &  Son,  proprietors. 

Thursday,  May  11.  Eighteenth  Day. —  Omnibus  transfer  to  the  Southern  California  Railway  Com- 
pany's station,  and  leave  Los  Angeles  at  9.00  a.  m.;  arrive  at  Pasadena  at  9.28  A.M.;  carriage  ride, 
visiting  the  most  picturesque  sections  of  Pasadena,  including  Raymond  Hill,  Raymond  avenue,  Orange 
Grove  avenue,  Colorado  street,  etc.;  leave  Pasadena  on  the  return  at  12.58  p.  m.,  and  arrive  in  Los 
Angeles  at  1.25  p.  m.  ;  omnibus  transfer  to  the  hotels. 

Friday,  May  12.    Nineteenth  Day. —  In  Los  Angeles. 

Saturday,  May  13.  Twentieth  Day. —  Omnibus  transfer  from  the  hotels  to  the  Southern  Pacific 
Company's  station,  and  at  9.25  a.  m.  leave  Los  Angeles;  arrive  at  Santa  Barbara  at  1.45  p.  m.  ;  omnibus 
transfer  to  The  Arlington,  C.  C.  Wheeler,  manager,  and  the  San  Marcos,  F.  A.  Shepard,  manager. 
Carriage  ride,  with  visits  to  the  most  interesting  and  picturesque  parts  of  the  city  and  its  surroundings. 

Note. —  The  carriage  ride  may  be  taken  on  any  of  the  days  during  the  stay  here. 
Sunday,  May  14.     Twenty-first  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 
Monday,  May  15.     Twenty-second  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 
Tuesday,  May  16.     Twenty -third  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 
Wednesday,  May  17.     Twenty-fourth  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 


Thursday,  May  i8.     Twenty-fifth  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

Friday,  May  19.  Twenty-sixth  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara.  Omnibus  transfer  to  the  Southern 
Pacific  Company's  station,  and  leave  Santa  Barbara  at  9,17  a.  m.;  dinner  at  the  station  dining-room, 
Saugus ;  supper  at  the  station  dining-room,  Mojave. 

Note, —  Parties  for  the  Yosemite  Valley  will  be  made  up  during  the  stay  at  Santa  Barbara,  to  leave 
on  different  days.     See  page  175. 

Saturday,  May  20.  Twenty-seventh  Day. —  On  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  line  en  route 
northward  ;  breakfast  at  the  station  dining-room,  Lathrop ;  arrive  at  Oakland  Pier  at  9.20  a.  m.,  and  in 
San  Francisco  by  ferry  at  9.45  a.  m.  ;  transfer  from  the  Oakland  ferry,  foot  of  Market  street,  in  the 
coaches  of  the  United  Carriage  Company,  to  The  Baldwin,  E.  J.  Baldwin,  proprietor,  Colonel  R.  H. 
Warfield,  manager,  and  The  California,  A.  F.  Kinzler,  manager. 

Sunday,  May  21.     Twenty-eighth  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 
Monday,  May  22.     Twenty-ninth  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. . 
Tuesday,  May  23.     Thirtieth  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 
Wednesday,  May  24.     Thirty-first  Day. — In  San  Francisco. 
Thursday,  May  25.     Thirty-second  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

Friday,  May  26.  Thirty-third  Day. —  Transfer  from  The  Baldwin  and  The  California  to  the 
Alameda  ferry,  foot  of  Market  street,  and  leave  San  Francisco  by  the  Santa  Cruz  Division  of  the  South- 
ern Pacific  Company's  line  at  8.15  a.  m.  ;  visit  the  *'  Big  Trees"  en  rotUe,  and  arrive  in  Santa  Cruz  at 
lioo  p.  M. ;  lunch  at  the  Pacific  Ocean  House,  W.  J.  McCollum,  proprietor,  the  Sea  Beach  Hotel,  J.  T. 
Sullivan,  proprietor,  the  Pope  House,  Mrs.  Pope,  proprietor,  or  the  Riverside  House,  Fred  Barson, 
proprietor;  carriage  ride,  visiting  the  beach,  cliff,  etc.;  leave  Santa  Cruz  at  3.40  p.  m.,  and  proceed  to 
Monterey  via  Pajaro,  arriving  at  Hotel  del  Monte  station  at  6. 15  p.  M. ;  transfer  to  the  Hotel  del  Monte^ 
George  Schonewald,  manager. 

Saturday,  May  27.     Thirty-fourth  Day. —  At  the  Hotel  del  Monte,  Monterey. 

Sunday,  May  28.     Thirty-fifth  Day. —  At  the  Hotel  del  Monte,  Monterey. 

■38 


Monday,  May  29.  Thirty-sixth  Day.— At  the  Hotel  del  Monte,  Monterey.  Transfer  to  the  Hotel 
del  Monte  station,  and  leave  at  1.38  p.  m.  ;  arrive  at  San  Jose  at  4.21  p.  m.  ;  transfer  to  the  Hotel  Ven- 
dome,  George  P.  Snell,  manager. 

Tuesday,  May  30.  Thirty-seventh  Day. —  In  San  Jose.  Stage  excursion  to  the  Lick  Observatory 
on  the  summit  of  Mount  Hamilton,  leaving  the  Hotel  Vendome  in  the  morning  and  returning  in  the 
afternoon. 

Wednesday,  May  31.     Thirty-eighth  Day, —  In  San  Jose. 

Thursday,  June  i.  Thirty-ninth  Day. —  Transfer  to  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  station 
(broad-gauge  line)  and  leave  San  Jose  at  4.21  p.  m.  ;  arrive  in  San  Francisco  (station  corner  of  Third  and 
Townsend  streets)  at  6. 10  p.  m.  ;  transfer  to  The  Baldwin  and  The  California  in  the  coaches  of  the  United 
Carriage  Company. 

Friday,  June  2.     Fortieth  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

Saturday,  June  3.     Forty-Jirst  Day, —  In  San  Francisco. 

Sunday,  June  4.     Forty -second  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

Monday,  June  5.  Forty-third  Day. —  In  San  Francisco.  Transfer  from  The  Baldwin  and  The  Cali- 
fornia to  the  Market  street  ferry  in  the  coaches  of  the  United  Carriage  Company,  and  leave  San  Francisco 
by  ferry  at  4.30  p.  m.  ;  leave  Oakland  Pier  in  Pullman  palace  cars  via  Southern  Pacific  Company's  line, 
at  5.00  p.  M. ;  arrive  at  Sacramento  at  8.40  p.  m.,  and  leave  at  9.00  p.  m. 

Tuesday,  June  6.  Forty-fourth  Day. —  On  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  Oregon  line  en  rotite 
through  the  Upper  Valley  of  the  Sacramento,  through  the  Mount  Shasta  region,  over  the  Siskiyou  Moun- 
tains, and  down  through  the  valleys  of  the  Rogue  and  Umpqua  Rivers. 

Wednesday,  June  7.  Forty-fifth  Day. —  On  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  Oregon  line  en  route 
through  the  valley  of  the  Willamette ;  arrive  in  Portland  at  7.35  A.  m.  ;  omnibus  transfer  to  The  Portland, 
Charles  E.  Leland,  manager;  carriage  ride  through  the  business  and  finest  residence  sections  of  the  city, 
and  also  to  the  park,  which  affords  an  extended  view  of  the  city,  the  river,  and  the  mountains. 

Thursday,  June  8.  Forty-sixth  Day. —  Transfer  to  the  Union  Pacific  Station,  and  leave 
Portland  at  8.45   a.  m.  for  a  trip  up  the  most  picturesque  parts  of  the  Columbia  River;  return  by 


steamer  down  the  Columbia  and  up  the    Willamette;    arrive  in  Portland  at  5.30  p.  m.  ;  transfer  to 
The  Portland. 

Friday,  June  9.  Forty-seventh  Day. —  Transfer  from  The  Portland  to  the  Union  station,  and  leave 
Portland,  z//«  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  at  8.00  a.  m.  ;  arrive  in  Seattle  at  5.05  p.m.;  omnibus 
transfer  to  The  Rainier,  DeL.  Harbaugh,  manager. 

Saturday,  June  10.  Forty-eighth  Day. —  In  Seattle.  Transfer  from  The  Rainier  to  the  wharf 
of  the  Puget  Sound  &  Alaska  Division  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Company,  and  leave  Seattle  at  10.15 
A.  M.  on  steamer  "City  of  Kingston ;  "  lunch  on  board  the  steamer;  arrive  at  Port  Townsend  at  1.15 
p.  M. ;  leave  Port  Townsend  at  1.30  p.m.;  arrive  in  Victoria,  B.  C,  at  4.30  p.m.;  transfer  to  The 
Driard,  Redon  &  Hartnegel,  proprietors;  carriage  ride,  visiting  various  parts  of  the  city,  including 
Beacon  Hill,  Government  House,  the  Government  Buildings,  etc.,  and  also  Esquimalt  (the  British 
naval  station),  and  Gorge. 

Sunday,  June  II.  Forty-ninth  Day.— \viN\c\.or\z..  Go  on  board  the  steamer  of  the  Puget  Sound 
&  Alaska  Division  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Company  in  the  evening  (transfer  from  the  hotel),  and  leave 
Victoria  at  a  late  hour;  stateroom  berths  furnished. 

Monday,  June  12.  Fiftieth  Dg.y. — Arrive  in  Tacoma  at  an  early  hour;  at  6.30  a.  m.  omnibus 
transfer  to  The  Tacoma,  William  K.  Hatch,  manager. 

Note. —  It  may  be  deemed  advisable  to  divide  the  party  into  two  divisions  for  the  visits  to  Seattle 
and  Tacoma.     Both  cities  will  be  visited. 

Tuesday,  June  13.  Fifty-first  Day. —  In  Tacoma  or  Seattle.  Transfers  from  the  hotels  to  the 
stations,  and  leave  Seattle  at  2.55  p.  .m.,  and  Tacoma  at  3.50  p.  m.  via  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad. 

Wednesday,  June  14.  Fifty-second  Day. —  On  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  en  route  through 
Idaho  and  Montana. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Hope,  Id.,  from  Pacific  standard,  or  120th  meridian,  to  Mountain 
standard,  or  105th  meridian  —  one  hour  faster. 

Thursday,  June  15.  Fifty-third  Day. —  Arrive  at  Livingston  at  3.45  a.  m.,  and  proceed  thence  to 
Cinnabar  via  the  National  Park  Branch  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad ;  leave  Cinnabar  by  stage 
at  10.30  A.  M.,  and  arrive  at  Mammoth  Hot  Sprmgs  at  12.30  p.  m. 

140 


Friday,  June  i6.  Fifty-fourth  Day. —  Leave  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  by  stage  at  8.00  a.  m.  for  the 
tour  through  the  park ;  arrive  at  Norris  Geyser  Basin  at  12.30  p.  m.  ;  dinner  there  :  leave  Norris  Geyser 
Basin  at  1.30  p.  m.,  passing  near  the  principal  geysers  in  the  basin,  including  the  "  Monarch,"  and  later 
near  the  Gibbon  Falls;  arrive  at  the  Fountain  Hotel,  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  at  5.30  p.  m. 

Saturday,  June  17.  Fifty-fftk  Z>aj'.— Leave  Fountain  Hotel  at  8.00  a.  m.,  and  visit  the  Midway 
Geyser  Basin,  which  contains  the  "  Excelsior  "  Geyser  (**  Hell's  Half  Acre  ")  *'  Turquoise  "  Spring,  and 
"  Prismatic"  Lake;  arrive  at  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  Hotel  at  11.00  a  m.  The  hotel  is  situated  near 
"  Old  Faithful,"  the  "  Bee  Hive,"  the  **  Giantess,"  the  **  Castle,"  and  other  great  geysers. 

Sunday,  June  18.    Fifty-sixth  Day  — At  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin. 

Monday,  June  19.  Fifty-seventh  Day. —  Leave  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  at  9.00  a.  m.,  and  proceed 
to  Yellowstone  Lake  via  West  Bay  or  the  "Thumb;"  arrive  at  West  Bay  at  11.00  a.  m.  ;  lunch  there, 
and  leave  at  2.00  p.  m.  ;  arrive  at  Yellowstone  Lake  Hotel  at  5.00  p.  m. 

Tuesday,  June  20.  Fifty-eighth  Day. —  Leave  Yellowstone  Lake  by  stage  at  10.00  a.  m.  ;  arrive  at 
Grand  Canon  Hotel  at  i.oo  p.  m. 

Wednesday,  June  21.  Fifty-ninth  Day. —  Leave  Grand  Canon  Hotel  at  10.30  a.  m.;  arrive  at 
Norris  Geyser  Basin  at  12.30  p.  m.  ;  lunch  there,  and  leave  at  1.30  p.  m.  ;  arrive  at  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs  Hotel  at  5.00  p.  m. 

Note. —  In  case  it  is  deemed  advisable  to  divide  the  party  for  the  round  of  travel  through  the  park, 
one  division  will  reverse  the  foregoing  itinerary. 

Thursday,  June  22.  Sixtieth  Day. —  Leave  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  at  2.00  p.  m.;  arrive  at  Cinna- 
bar at  3.30  p.  m.  ;  leave  Cinnabar,  e^/Vz  the  National  Park  Branch  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  at 
4.15  p  M. ;  arrive  at  Livingston  at  6. 15  p.  m.  ;  leave  Livingston  at  6.40  p.  m.  on  the  Northern  Pacific's 
main  line. 

Friday,  June  23.  Sixty  first  Day. —  On  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  en  route  through  Montana 
and  North  Dakota. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Mandan,  N.  D.,  from  Mountain  standard,  or  105th  meridiauf  to 
Central  standard,  or  goih  meridian  —  one  hour  faster. 

14T 


Saturday,  June  24.  Sixty-second  Day. —  On  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  en  route  through  North 
Dakota  and  Minnesota;  arrive  in  Minneapolis  at  11.40  a.m.;  omnibus  transfer  to  the  West  Hotel, 
John  T.  West,  proprietor;  carriage  ride  in  the  afternoon,  visiting  the  chief  business  and  residence  por- 
tions of  the  city,  the  great  flouring  mills,  the  bridge  below  St.  Anthony's  Falls,  the  Exposition  Building, 
the  Suspension  Bridge,  etc. 

Sunday,  June  25.     Sixty -third  Day. —  In  Minneapolis. 

Monday,  June  26.  Sixty-fourth  Day. —  In  Minneapolis.  Transfer  to  the  Union  station,  and  leave 
Minneapolis  at  9.55  a.  m.  ;  arrive  in  St.  Paul  at  10.30  p.  m.  ;  omnibus  transfer  to  the  Hotel  Ryan,  Eugene 
Mehl  &  Son,  proprietors ;  in  the  afternoon  carriage  ride,  visiting  the  chief  business  and  residence  por- 
tions of  the  city,  the  Capitol,  Summit  avenue,  etc. 

Tuesday,  June  27.  Sixty-fifth  Day. —  In  St.  Paul.  Transfer  to  the  station  of  the  Minneapolis  & 
St.  Louis  Railway,  and  leave  St.  Paul  via  the  Albert  Lea  route  at  7.00  p.  m. 

Wednesday,  June  28.  Sixty-sixth  Day. —  Through  Iowa  and  Illinois  on  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island 
&  Pacific  Railway  (Albert  Lea  route).  Arrive  in  Chicago  (Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  Exposition  station) 
at  2.30  p.  M. ;  transfer  to  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand. 

Thursday,  June  29.     Sixty-seventh  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Friday,  June  30.     Sixty-eighth  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Saturday,  July  i.     Sixty-ninth  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Sunday,  July  2.     Seventieth  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Monday,  July  3.     Seventy-first  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Tuesday,  July  4.     Seventysecond  Day, —  In  Chicago. 

Wednesday,  July  5.  Seventy-third  Day. —  In  Chicago.  Transfer  from  The  Raymond  &  Whit- 
comb Grand  to  Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  Exposition  station,  and  leave  Chicago  at  3.00  p.  m.  ;  to  Harvey, 
111.,  over  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad,  and  thence  eastward  via  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Note. —  Passengers  returning  to  Chicago  independently  must  notify  Carroll  Hutchins,  agent  for 
Messrs.  Raymond  &  Whitcomb,  at  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand,  Midway  Plaisance,  Chicago,  at 
least  one  week  in  advance  of  their  arrival,  in  order  to  insure  hotel  accommodations. 

142 


Members  of  the  party  who  return  eastward  independently  from  Chicago  or  any  point  west  thereof  will 
be  required  to  exchange  their  eastbound  passage  and  sleeping-car  coupons  at  the  ticket  office  of  the 
Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  at  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway  Crossing,  Blue  Island  Junction ; 
or  at  the  Dearborn  station  (Polk  street,  at  the  head  of  Dearborn  street),  Chicago ;  or  at  the  city  ticket 
office  of  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  103  South  Clark  street,  Chicago,  E.  H-  Hughes,  agent; 
or  at  Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  office  in  the  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  Hotel,  Midway  Plaisance, 
Carroll  Hutchins,  agent.  All  applications  in  advance  for  sleeping-berths  should  be  addressed  to  Mr. 
Hutchins  or  Mr.  Hughes.  Niagara  Falls  is  the  only  point  east  of  Chicago  where  "  stop-over  "  privileges 
are  permitted. 

Thursday,  July  6.  Seventy-fourth  Day. —  Arrive  at  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y.,  at  8.30  a.  m.,  and  remain 
there  until  afternoon ;  leave  Niagara  Falls  at  4.42  p.  m.,  and  proceed  eastward  via  West  Shore  Railroad. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Port  Huron,  Mich.,  from  Central  standard,  or  90th  meridian,  to 
Eastern  standard,  or  75th  meridian  —  one  hour  faster. 

Friday,  July  7.  Seventy-fifth  Day.—  From  Rotterdam  Junction  eastward  via  the  Fitchburg  Rail- 
road.    Arrive  in  Boston  'Fitchburg  Railroad  station.  Causeway  street)  at  10.00  a.  m. 

TABLE    OF    DISTANCES. 

MILKS. 

From  Boston  up  to  departure  from  Portland,  Or.     (Seepages  11 5- 116.) 5)92 1 

"      Portland  to  Seattle,  Northern  Pacific  Railroad 186 

"      Seattle  to  Victoria,  B.  C,  and  return  to  Tacoma,  Puget  Sound  &  Alaska  Division  of  the 

Northern  Pacific  Company 195 

"      Tacoma  to  Cinnabar,  Northern  Pacific  Railroad 955 

"      Cinnabar  through  Yellowstone  National  Park  and  return,  by  stage 148 

"      Cinnabar  to  Boston.    (See  page  117.) ; 2,595 

Total 10,000 


143 


A  Magnificent  Sight-seeing  Tour 

XH ROUGH 

COLORADO 

^^°  CALIFORNIA 

With  Visits  to  tKe  Most  Picturesque  Regions    of    the    Rocky    Mountains    and   Attractive 

Points  on    the    Pacific    Coast,    including    Coronado    Beach,    Los    Angeles, 

Pasadena,    Santa    Barbara,    San    Francisco,    Monterey    and 

Mount    Hamilton,   and    on    the    Return    Journey,    Salt    Lake    City,  Glenwood    Springs, 
Marshall  Pass,  the  Royal  Gorge,  Manitou  and  Denver ;  also  a  week  at  the 

WORLD'S    COLUMBIAN    EXFOSITIOH. 


THE   PARTY  TO   LEAVE   BOSTON    MONDAY,  APRIL  24,  AND   TO    RETURN    SATURDAY,   JULY   1. 


Price  of  Tickets  (all  Traveling  and  Hotel  Expenses  Included),     -    $475.00 


RAYMOND    &    WHITCOMB, 

296  'Washington  Street  (opposite  School  Street),  Boston. 

us 


Thirteenth  Annual  Spring  Excursion 

COLORADO    AND    CALIFORNIA, 

WITH    A     VISIT     TO     THE 

COIvUNlBIAN     EvXF^OSITlON. 


April  24  to  July  1,  1893. 


THE  Pacific  coast  from  San  Diego  to  San  Francisco,  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  of 
Colorado,  will  be  the  principal  objective  points  of  a  third  party  of  tourists 
leaving  Boston  in  company  with  the  two  parties  already  described  in  this  book. 
On  the  outward  trip  and  in  California  the  round  of  sight-seeing  will  be  substantially 
the  same.  The  homeward  route,  on  the  other  hand,  is  to  be  entirely  distinct.  It 
embraces  a  different  series  of  States  and  Territories,  viz. :  Nevada,  Utah,  Colorado 
from  its  western  to  its  eastern  border,  and  Nebraska,  and  also  different  and  more 
comprehensive  views  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  together  with  the  Sierra  Nevadas. 
This  tour  accordingly  has  its  own  special  attractions.  Like  the  others  it  includes  a 
full  week's  stay  at  the  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  Hotel  in  Chicago  for  a  visit  to 
the  World's  Columbian  Exposition. 

147 


The  time  selected  for  these  tours  is  the  best  that  can  be  had  for  sight-seeing.  It  is 
after  the  close  of  the  rainy  season,  when  the  Yosemite  Valley  and  other  places  of 
interest  are  thoroughly  accessible  to  travel,  and  when  the  face  of  Nature  wears  its 
loveliest  smile.  While  the  trip  is  planned  liberally  as  to  time,  the  sojourns  at  differ- 
ent points  are  no  longer  than  is  necessary  to  see  the  places  visited  in  a  thorough  and 
at  the  same  time  leisurely  manner.  The  journey  is  accomplished  in  the  shortest  period 
commensurate  with  this  purpose  ;  and  thus  persons  who  might  find  it  inconvenient  to 
absent  themselves  from  business  or  home  ties  for  several  months  can  see  California  in 
the  most  comprehensive  manner,  yet  without  any  loss  of  time.  California  may  be 
reached  more  quickly  than  we  make  the  journey,  but  the  traveler  who  rushes  across 
the  country  at  express  speed  sees  and  enjoys  but  little  of  the  scenery  on  the  way,  and 
probably  misses  altogether  interesting  points  that  may  be  reached  by  side  trips.  In 
both  California  and  Colorado  many  delightful  places  lie  off  the  beaten  track. 

The  passengers  will  not  be  hurried  over  any  section  of  the  route  where  it  is  desir- 
able to  stop,  and  the  sojourns  at  different  points  in  New  Mexico,  California,  Utah, 
and  Colorado,  with  the  various  side  trips,  are  sufficient  to  encompass  a  great  amount 
of  sight-seeing.  As  in  the  other  excursions,  a  special  time  schedule  will  be  observed, 
so  that  the  picturesque  parts  of  the  route  will  be  passed  over  by  daylight. 

Although  most  of  the  outward  route  is  covered  by  the  itineraries  of  the  other  excur- 
sions, this  party  will  have  its  own  programme  and  its  own  special  train  of  Pullman 
vestibuled  sleeping-cars,  dining-car,  etc.  In  fact,  it  separates  from  the  others  alto- 
gether on  the  fifth  day  out,  at  La  Junta,  Colo.  While  the  Alaska  and  the  Northwest 
parties  visit  the  Royal  Gorge,  Manitou,  and  Denver  on  the  outward  journey,  the  Cali- 
fornia and  Colorado  tourists  reserve  these  points  for  the  return  trip,  when  they  will 
be  approached  from  the  west.     Inasmuch,  however,  as  the  route  of  this  party  for  the 

148 


entire  distance  from  the  Atlantic  Coast  to  San  Bernardino,  Cal.,  and  also  the  various 
places  to  be  visited  in  California,  have  been  described  at  length  in  connection  with 
the  Alaska  tour,  the  programme  for  this  excursion  up  to  the  departure  from  San  Fran- 
cisco will  here  be  outlined  only  in  brief.  Detailed  information  about  the  various 
places  to  be  seen,  which  should  be  consulted  in  connection  with  the  itinerary  to  be 
given  hereafter,  will  be  found  on  pages  20-51.  The  reader  is  also  referred  to 
pages  15-17  for  an  account  of  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand,  which  is  to  be 
the  stopping  place  in  Chicago  on  the  return,  and  to  pages  101-105  for  a  complete 
sketch  of  the  arrangements  for  the  World's  Fair. 

Eleven  parties  have  made  this  excursion  under  our  direction  in  former  successive 
years  with  the  utmost  possible  satisfaction.  The  Yosemite  Valley  may  be  visited 
or  omitted,  as  the  traveler  may  prefer.  Whether  the  valley  be  included  or  left  out, 
the  tour,  in  the  conditions  under  which  it  is  made  and  the  places  and  scenes  which  it 
includes,  is  as  enjoyable  as  any  that  can  be  made  within  the  limits  of  the  United 
States  in  an  equal  space  of  time.  The  round  trip,  including  a  week  at  the  Exposition, 
calls  for  only  a  little  over  two  months. 

Cost  of  the  Tour. 

The  price  of  tickets  for  the  excursion,  as  described  in  the  following  pages,  will  be 
FOUR  HUNDRED  AND  SEVENTY-FIVE  DOLLARS.  This  sum  wiU  cover  first-class  travel 
over  all  routes,  going  and  returning,  with  side  trips  to  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs,  Santa 
Fe,  Riverside,  San  Diego,  Redondo  Beach,  Santa  Barbara,  Santa  Cruz,  Monterey, 
San  Jose,  Mt.  Hamilton,  Marshall  Pass,  and  Manitou  Springs,  and  with  double  berth 
in  Pullman  sleeping-cars;  hotel  accommodations  according  to  the  itinerary,  for  the 
period  of  the  regular  tour  (sixty-nine  days),  with  sojourns  at  hotels  at  Las  Vegas  Hot 

149 


Springs,  Los  Angeles,  Coronado  Beach,  Redondo  Beach,  Santa  Barbara,  San  Fran- 
cisco, Monterey,  San  Jose,  Manitou  Springs  and  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand 
in  Chicago  tor  one  week;  meals  while  traveling,  in  dining-cars,  or  at  hotels  or  dining- 
stations  en  route  ;  omnibus  or  carriage  transfers  from  railway  stations  to  hotels,  and 
vice  versa,  wherever  needed  (in  Los  Angeles,  San  Diego,  Santa  Barbara,  San  Francisco, 
Monterey,  San  Jose,  Manitou,  and  Chicago) ;  special  carriage  rides  in  Pasadena,  Santa 
Barbara,  Santa  Cruz,  and  Denver;  all  expenses  for  transportation,  transfer  and  care  of 
baggage  (to  the  extent  of  150  pounds  for  each  full  ticket  and  75  pounds  for  each  child's 
ticket,  all  in  excess  of  these  amounts  being  liable  to  extra  charge  at  customary  rates), 
and  the  services  of  conductors — in  short,  every  needed  expense  of  the  entire 
round  trip  from  Boston  back  to  Boston. 

Price  for  children  between  the  ages  of  five  and  twelve  years  three  hundred  and 
FIFTY-FIVE  dollars.  This  covers  a  separate  sleeping-car  berth  throughout  the  entire 
route,  the  same  as  for  an  adult.  Where  no  separate  berth  is  required,  the  price  for 
children  between  the  ages  of  five  and  twelve  years  will  be  three   hundred  and  ' 

FIFTEEN    DOLLARS. 

Price  of  tickets  for  the  Yosemite  trip,  thirty-five  dollars,  in  addition  to  cost  of 
ticket  for  the  regular  excursion.     (See  page  175.) 

Extra    Sleeping-Car    Accommodations. 

The  cost  of  an  extra  double  berth  (giving  an  entire  section  to  one  person)  for  the 
journey  between  Boston  and  Los  Angeles  is  $21;  drawing-room  for  one  occupant, 
$S^'i  for  two  occupants,  $37  — $18.50  for  each  passenger  ;  for  three  occupants,  entire 
extra  charge,  $16. 

From  Los  Angeles  (or  Santa  Barbara)  to  San  Francisco  :  Extra  double  berth,  $2.50; 

150 


drawing-room  for  one  occupant,  $6. 50  ;  for  two  occupants  ^4  —  $2  for  each  passenger ; 
for  three  occupants,  entire  extra  charge  $1.50. 

From  San  Francisco  to  Boston:  Extra  double  berth  ;ji2i ;  drawing-room  for  one 
occupant,  $58  — for  two  occupants,  $37  —  $18.50  for  each  passenger  —  for  three  occu- 
pants, entire  extra  charge,  $16. 

A  sketch  of  the  tour  is  given  in  brief  in  the  following  pages.  Persons  desirous  of 
joining  this  party  should  register  their  names  as  early  as  convenient.  The  tickets 
must  be  taken  on  or  before  Wednesday,  April  19  —  five  days  previous  to  the  date  of 
departure.  W.  RAYMOND. 

LA.  WHITCOMB. 


'  Tickets  for  the  excursion,  additional  copies  of  this  circular,  and  all  needed 
information  can  be  obtained  of 

RAYMOND  &  WHITCOMB,  296  Washington  St.  (opposite  Scliool  St.),  Boston. 


'SI 


THE  JOURNEY  IN  BRIEF. 


Crossing  the  Continent  Westward. 

Our  special  Pullman  vestibuled  train,  with  dining-car,  starting  with  the  California 
and  Colorado  party  to  cross  the  continent,  will  leave  Boston  from  the  Fitchburg  Rail- 
road station,  Causeway  street,  at  4.00  P.  M.,  Monday,  April  24.  Passing  through  the 
Hoosac  Tunnel  in  the  evening,  we  shall  reach  Buffalo  by  the  West  Shore  route 
Tuesday  morning,  and,  later,  Niagara  Falls.  The  river  is  crossed  at  Suspension 
Bridge,  two  miles  below  the  great  cataract,  and  we  journey  through  a  pleasant  section 
of  the  Canadian  Province  of  Ontario  on  the  Southern  Division  of  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway.  From  Port  Huron  our  route  lies  through  Michigan,  a  little  corner  of 
Indiana,  and  into  Illinois,  over  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trutik  Railway.  At  Blue  Island 
Junction  we  enter  upon  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  Railway,  continuing  across 
the  great  State  of  Illinois  and  considerable  sections  of  Iowa  and  Missouri.  Much  of 
Illinois  and  Iowa  will  be  seen  during  Wednesday's  journey.  The  Mississippi  River  is 
crossed  between  Rock  Island,  Ilk,  and  Davenport,  la.,  and  the  Missouri  River  the 
succeeding  morning  just  before  reaching  Kansas  City.     (See  pages  20-22.) 

After  a  brief  visit  to  Kansas  City  (page  22),  we  continue  our  westward  journey, 
entering  here  upon  the  Atchison,  Topeka,  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad  for  a  long  ride 
through  Kansas,  Colorado,  New  Mexico,  Arizona,  and  Southern  California.  Thurs- 
day will  be  devoted  chiefly  to  Eastern  Kansas,  which  is  naturally  its  most  populous 
section.  Soon  after  passing  Coolidge  we  enter  Colorado,  and  then  New  Mexico, 
crossing  the  Raton  Mountains   a  short  distance   south   of  Trinidad.     Our  travels 

152 


through  this  Territory  will  be  quite  extended,  and  visits  will  be  paid  to  its  two 
most  attractive  points  —  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs,  and  Santa  Fe,  its  ancient  capital  —  on 
Saturday,  Sunday,  Monday,  and  Tuesday.  (Pages  23-30.)  Then  we  continue  on, by 
way  of  Albuquerque,  over  the  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Railroad  through  Arizona  (page  31), 
and  enter  California  at  the  crossing  of  the  Colorado  River,  near  the  Needles.  After 
traversing  the  desolate  Mojave  desert  we  turn  southward  through  the  Cajon  Pass  of 
the  San  Bernardino  Mountains,  and,  at  length,  on  Thursday,  May  4,  find  ourselves  in 
the  garden  of  Southern  California. 

In  California. 

The  first  town  reached  is  San  Bernardino.  Continuing  thence  by  the  Southern 
California  Railway  to  Riverside  (page  35),  we  there  pass  the  latter  part  of  the  day  in 
inspecting  the  charms  of  that  beautiful  city  of  groves  and  gardens.  We  then  journey 
westward  to  Pasadena  (page  39)  and  Los  Angeles,  pausing  long  enough  in  the  former 
place  to  enjoy  a  carriage  ride  through  the  charming  city  and  its  picturesque  environs. 
Saturday  and  Sunday  will  be  passed  in  Los  Angeles  (page  38),  and  on  Monday  we  go 
southward  to  San  Diego  and  its  famous  seashore  resort,  Coronado  Beach  (pages 
35-37),  where  we  are  to  remain  until  Thursday,  May  11. 

Returning  to  Los  Angeles  from  San  Diego  we  first  make  an  excursion  to  Redondo 
Beach  (page  39),  and  then  proceed  to  Santa  Barbara  by  the  Southern  Pacific  line, 
being  due  there  Saturday  evening,  Maj-  13.  Several  days  are  assigned  to  Santa  Bar- 
bara (page  40)  in  the  itinerary,  but  it  should  be  noted  that  the  Yosemite  Valley  parties 
are  made  up  during  this  period  to  leave  on  different  days.  Personal  preferences  in 
regard  to  the  date  of  leaving  for  this  trip  will  be  observed  as  far  as  possible.  There 
will  be  ample  time  to  see  Santa  Barbara,  including  a  carriage  ride,  and  also  to  visit 
the  Big  Tree  Groves  and  the  Yosemite  Valley. 

153 


San  Francisco  (pages  42-45),  the  metropolis  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  will  come  next  in 
order,  the  party  arriving  there  Tuesday  morning,  May  23,  for  a  stay  of  six  days,  to  be 
followed  later  by  another  visit  of  five  days'  duration. 

Leaving  San  Francisco  Monday  morning,  May  29,  the  members  of  the  party  will 
proceed  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  narrow-gauge  line  to  Santa  Cruz  (page 
46).  The  "  Big  Trees  "  will  be  visited  on  the  way,  and  there  will  be  a  carriage  ride  to 
the  beach  and  along  the  picturesque  cliffs  in  Santa  Cruz.  Monterey  and  the  magnifi- 
cent Hotel  del  Monte  (page  47)  will  be  the  next  point  of  interest,  the  party  remaining 
there  until  Saturday.  We  shall  then  proceed  to  San  Jose  (page  49)  to  remain  at  the 
Hotel  Vendome  four  days,  save  that  Monday,  June  5,  will  be  devoted  to  a  stage  excur- 
sion (page  49)  to  the  Lick  Observatory  on  the  summit  of  Mount  Hamilton,  the  party 
leaving  the  Hotel  Vendome  in  the  morning  and  returning  at  night.  San  Francisco 
will  be  reached  on  the  return,  Wednesday,  June  7. 

From  San   Francisco  Eastward. 

The  party  will  leave  San  Francisco  on  its  homeward  journey  Monday  afternoon, 
June  12.  The  route  from  San  Francisco  will  be  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's 
line  across  Central  California  and  Nevada  into  Utah ;  thence  into  Colorado  over  the 
Rio  Grande  Western  and  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroads  (recently  converted  from 
narrow  gauge  to  standard  gauge,  so  that  no  change  of  cars  is  necessary) ;  from  Denver 
to  the  Missouri  River  via  the  Union  Pacific  Short  line,  and  thence  across  Iowa  by  the 
Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  Railway.  In  order  that  the  magnificent  mountain 
scenery  may  be  enjoyed,  arrangements  have  been  made  to  cross  the  Sierra  Nevada  by 
daylight.  As  far  as  Port  Costa,  thirty-two  miles  out,  we  follow  the  route  over  which 
we  approached  San  Francisco.    At  that  point  we  cross  the  Straits  of  Carquinez  on 

154  


the  mammoth  steam  ferry-boat  "  Solano,"  the  largest  craft  of  its  kind  in  the  world  ; 
and  for  a  farther  distance  of  over  2,500  miles  our  course  is  over  fresh  ground.  From 
Benicia,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  straits,  we  soon  speed  away  towards  Sacramento 
and  the  far-away  mountains,  through  a  region  of  wheat  fields,  gardens,  and  vineyards. 
We  shall  reach  Sacramento  in  the  night,  and  Tuesday  morning  will  be  devoted  to 
sight-seeing  there. 

Sacramento. 
This  city,  the  capital  of  California,  around  which  cluster  many  thrilling  memories  of 
the  early  days  of  the  State,  is  now  a  handsome  place  of  about  30,000  inhabitants. 
"  Sutter's  Fort  "  was  established  in  1841,  two  years  after  John  A.  Sutter  settled  here, 
and  the  town  itself  was  founded  in  1848.  Riots,  fires,  and  floods  were  among  its  early 
experiences.  The  streets  are  regularly  laid  out,  and  many  of  them  are  lined  with 
handsome  residences  and  business  blocks.  The  tourist  is  likely  to  be  interested  chiefly 
in  the  Capitol  and  the  Crocker  Art  Gallery.  The  Capitol,  which  cost  ^3,000,000,  is 
an  imposing  edifice,  in  a  beautiful  park,  adorned  with  trees  and  flowers,  and  in  its 
main  design  is  a  copy  of  the  Capitol  at  Washington.  The  dome  rises  to  a  height  of 
220  feet.  The  building  was  finished  in  1869.  The  State  Library  contains  over  60,000 
volumes.  The  Crocker  Art  Gallery  contains  the  finest  collection  of  paintings  and 
statuary  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  This  institution  was  given  to  the  city  by  Mrs.  E.  B. 
Crocker.     Sacramento  is  also  a  famous  fruit  growing,  packing,  and  shipping  center. 

Across  the   Sierra   Nevadas. 
Leaving  Sacramento  Tuesday  noon  we  cross  the  American  River  a  short  distance 
above  the  city,  and  then  begin  the  ascent  of  the  mountains  that  form  the  eastern 
border  of  California  — the  great  wall  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  or  "  Snowy  range."     This 

155 


mountain  chain  is  about  9,000  feet  in  height,  and  the  pass  to  which  we  climb  has  an 
elevation  of  7,017  feet. 

A  few  miles  beyond  Colfax  the  railroad  "doubles  Cape  Horn."  The  road  here 
rounds  a  mountain  promontory  on  a  little  shelf  2,000  feet  above  the  bed  of  the 
American  River,  which  appears  at  this  height  like  a  slender  thread  of  silver.  Stretch- 
ing away  to  the  right  is  a  deep  ravine,  bordered  by  mountam  walls,  along  which  may 
be  seen  lh3  stage  road,  leading  to  the  old  mining  town  of  Iowa  Hill.  The  Soutiiern 
Pacific  Company's  line  ascends  the  mountains  beside  the  American  River  Canon, 
and  many  magnificent  views  are  had  of  that  gigantic  rift,  while  Bear  and  Yuba  River 
Valleys  also  furnish  some  grand  scenery.  All  along  this  part  of  the  route  may  be 
seen  many  traces  of  the  old  placer  mining,  and  of  the  later  hydraulic  process,  which 
washed  away  even  the  hills  themselves. 

In  the  passage  over  the  mountains  the  traveler  is  treated  to  an  extensive 
acquaintance  with  that  necessary  —  though  to  the  sight-seer  rather  aggravating  — 
device,  the  snow-shed.  These  wonderful  wooden  tunnels  cover  over  forty  miles  of 
the  Central  Pacific  Railway,  and  cost  from  $8,000  to  $12,000  per  mile.  In  some 
places  where  masonry  was  needed,  the  cost  was  $30,000  per  mile.  They  were 
suggested  by  the  practical  mind  of  the  late  Charles  Crocker.  From  Sacramento 
to  Summit,  105  miles,  the  ascent  is  6,987  feet;  and  of  this  5,258  feet — only  seven 
yards  less  than  a  mile  —  are  made  in  sixty-two  miles,  from  Clipper  Gap  to  Summit. 
The  ascent  from  Shady  Run  to  summit,  a  distance  of  thirty-one  miles,  is  2,881  feet, 
or  over  half  a  mile.  Just  east  of  the  Summit,  upon  the  north,  Donner  Lake  is  seen, 
and  the  railroad  follows  down  the  canon  of  Cold  Stream  Creek  and  Donner  Creek  to 
Truckee.  On  Donner  Creek  is  Starvation  Camp,  where,  in  the  winter  of  1846-47, 
Donner  and  his  party,  a  company  of   eighty-two  persons,  met   with  privation   and 

156 


disaster.  Thirty-six  of  the  number  perished,  and,  of  a  party  of  thirteen  who  went  out 
for  help,  ten  more  were  forced  to  succumb.  Relief  was  sent,  but  all  the  survivors 
could  not  be  saved,  and  the  heroic  Mrs.  Donner  remained  behind  to  die  with  her 
husband. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  the  mountains  the  grade  is  not  as  heavy  as  it  is  on  the  western 
slope,  and  the  descent  is  to  the  great  inclosed  continental  plateau,  which  is  lifted  over 
4,000  feet  above  the  sea.  For  over  1,200  miles  the  road  is  continued  at  that  or  a 
greater  elevation,  only  once  reaching  a  level  slightly  less  than  4,000  feet. 

Nevada. 

Passing  through  Truckee,  the  last  California  town  of  importance,  we  enter  the  State 
of  Nevada,  about  twenty  miles  farther  on.  Soon  after  we  reach  Reno,  one  of  the 
liveliest  and  most  flourishing  towns  of  the  Silver  State.  Nevada  has  an  area  of  104, 1 25 
square  miles,  and  is  therefore  nearly  as  large  as  Colorado.  The  Southern  Pacific 
Company's  Ogden  line  traverses  it  for  449  miles,  and  the  route  presents  all  the 
characteristic  scenery  for  which  this  State  is  famed,  comprising  bold  and  rugged 
mountains  capped  with  snow,  and  wide  stretches  of  desert  plain.  Wadsworth,  Hum- 
boldt, Winnemucca,  Battle  Mountain,  Carlin,  Elko,  and  Wells  are  places  of  more  or 
less  importance.  The  entire  population  of  the  State  is  44,327.  Indians,  generally 
Shoshones  or  Piutes,  are  frequently  seen  about  the  stations.  One  of  the  wonderful 
natural  features  of  the  great  Nevada  and  Utah  Basin,  sometimes  called  the  great 
American  desert,  is  found  in  the  numerous  "  sinks."  The  Plumboldt,  Carson,  Truckee, 
and  many  other  streams  empty  into  lakes  that  have  no  visible  outlets.  The  Great 
Salt  Lake  is  one  of  these  vast  "  sinks." 

157 


Utah. 

The  Territory  of  Utah  is  reached  just  east  of  Tecoma,  680  miles  from  San  Francisco 
and  154  miles  from  Ogden.  The  scenery  is  similar  to  that  of  Nevada.  We  approach 
the  shores  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  about  ninety  miles  west  of  Ogden,  just  beyond  the 
station  of  Kelton.  This  remarkable  inland  sea  covers  about  3,000  square  miles,  its 
greatest  length  being  ninety-three  miles,  and  its  greatest  width  forty-three  miles.  The 
elevation  of  the  lake  above  the  ocean  is  upwards  of  4,200  feet,  or  higher  than  the  top 
of  the  Alleghany  Mountains.  Its  mean  depth  is  about  sixty  feet,  and  there  are  numer- 
ous small  islands,  with  one  or  two  of  considerable  size.  While  the  Atlantic  Ocean 
contains  3)^  per  cent  of  solids.  Great  Salt  Lake  has  14  per  cent.  Promontory  Point, 
where  the  last  spike  uniting  the  iron  bands,  which  had  stretched  out  from  the  Atlantic 
and  from  the  Pacific,  was  driven  May  10,  1S69,  is  fifty-two  miles  from  Ogden.  From 
this  latter  point  we  proceed  thirty-six  miles  south  by  the  Rio  Grande  Western  Railway 
to  the  capital  of  Mormondom. 

Salt    Lake   City. 

Salt  Lake  City,  or  Zion,  as  it  is  called  by  the  Latter-Day  Saints,  is  beautifully  situ- 
ated. It  covers  a  wide  expanse,  and  has  a  mixed  population  of  Mormons  and  Gentiles. 
It  is  emphatically  a  city  of  cottage  homes.  The  streets  are  wide  and  shaded,  and  in 
each  are  two  swift-flowing  streams  of  pure  mountain  water.  The  lines  of  shade  trees, 
with  groups  of  fruit  trees  and  luxuriant  gardens,  make  the  city  seem  one  mass  of 
foliage.  Spurs  of  the  Wahsatch  Mountains  rise  to  a  great  height  a  few  miles  distant 
on  the  east  and  north,  and  twelve  miles  west  are  other  rugged  ranges.  There  are 
copious  sulphur  springs  near  the  city,  and  rich  silver  mines  are  in  the  mountains, 
twenty  miles  or  more  away. 

Among  the  edifices  demanding  attention  are  the  Tabernacle  and  the  unfinished 

158 


Temple.  The  former  is  a  vast  building,  oval  in  form,  233  by  133  feet,  with  a  roof 
seventy  feet  from  the  floor.  There  are  seats  for  8,000  persons,  and  above  the  platform 
is  a  large  organ.  The  Assembly  House,  a  smaller  edifice  than  the  Tabernacle,  but 
finished  much  more  elaborately,  is  intended  as  a  place  of  worship  in  the  winter  season. 
It  contains  an  organ  and  numerous  frescoes  depicting  scenes  in  the  history  of  the  Mor- 
mon church.  The  Endowment  House,  of  which  so  much  has  been  written,  was  for- 
merly in  the  same  inclosure.  The  Temple,  nearby,  was  begun  a  quarter  of  a  century 
ago,  and  when  finished  will  be  200  feet  high  and  of  proportionate  size.  It  is  built  of 
granite  brought  from  Cottonwood  Canon.  Among  the  other  buildings  are  the  former 
residence  of  Brigham  Young,  the  Gardo  House,  the  tithing  ofiices,  and  the  gigantic 
warehouse  of  "Zion's  Cooperative  Mercantile  Institution,"  known  in  short  as  the 
"  Co-op  Store."  Camp  Douglas,  the  headquarters  of  the  United  States  troops,  is 
finely  situated  upon  a  plateau  above  the  city. 

The  population  of  Salt  Lake  City,  according  to  the  recent  census,  is  44,843,  an 
increase  of  24,075  in  ten  years.  Ogden  has  14,889  inhabitants,  and  the  population  of 
the  entire  territory  is  207,905. 

Over   the    Rio    Grande    Western  Railway  from  Salt    Lake    City, 

Leaving  Salt  Lake  City  Thursday  noon  the  party  will  proceed  eastward  over  this 
road.  The  line  crosses  the  Wahsatch  range  and  the  main  continental  divide,  and 
leads  through  several  wonderfully  picturesque  canons  and  gorges.  Southward  from 
the  Mormon  capital  the  line  takes  the  traveler  up  the  valley  of  the  Jordan  to  the 
flourishing  Mormon  town  of  Provo,  which  is  situated  upon  the  shores  of  the  beautiful 
Utah  Lake,  a  body  of  fresh  water  nearly  300  feet  higher  than  the  Great  Salt  Lake, 
into  which  it  discharges  through  the  Jordan. 

Beyond  Provo  the  railway  turns  eastward  and  ascends  the  Spanish  Fork  and  Clear 
_______  159 


Creek  to  Soldier  Summit,  one  of  the  low  passes  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Wahsatch 
range.  Provo  is  4,^17  feet  above  the  sea;  and  at  Soldier  Summit,  forty-five  miles 
beyond,  the  elevation  is  7,464  feet,  or  3,237  feet  above  the  level  of  Salt  Lake  City.  At 
the  summit  the  view  is  not  extended,  as  the  mountains  rise  higher  on  either  side. 
The  road  descends  on  the  east  slope  by  the  side  of  the  South  Fork  of  the  Price  River, 
which  it  follows  some  seventy  miles.  Twenty-two  miles  below  the  summit  is  Castle 
Gate,  formed  by  cliffs  on  each  side  of  the  roadway,  leading  to  Castle  Canon.  The 
Green  River,  a  large  and  swelling  stream,  is  crossed  190  miles  from  Salt  Lake  City 
and  some  fifty  or  sixty  miles  north  of  its  junction  with  the  Grand  River,  which  the 
railway  follows  up  for  over  200  miles.  The  Colorado  State  line  is  reached  about  270 
miles  from  Salt  Lake  City. 

Glenwood    Springs. 

East  of  Grand  Junction  we  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Grand  River,  passing  the  Roan, 
or  Book  Mountains.  We  are  now  upon  the  recent  extension  of  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande  Railroad.  Glenwood  Springs  is  a  new  and  very  attractive  health  resort, 
situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Grand  River  with  the  Roaring  Fork,  in  a  picturesque 
valley  surrounded  by  forest-clad  hills.  Its  altitude  is  about  the  same  as  that  of  Denver 
—  5,200  feet  —  and  the  town,  which  had  about  200  inhabitants  in  1885,  has  now  a 
population  of  over  2,500.  The  place  is  handsomely  laid  out,  with  broad  and  regular 
streets  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles. 

The  fame  of  Glenwood  Springs  is  due  primarily  to  its  marvelous  hot  mineral  waters. 
A  sanitarium  or  bath-house,  costing  $100,000,  has  been  erected,  and  in  the  rear  of 
this  commodious  structure  is  the  largest  swimming  pool  of  hot  spring  water  in  the 
world.  The  "  Big  Pool  "  covers  upwards  of  an  acre,  and  the  waters  are  kept  freshly 
supplied  from  the  hot  springs,  which  pour  into  the  great  inclosure  2,000  gallons  per 

160 


minute,  the  inflow  being  reduced  to  the  requisite  temperature  by  evaporation.  A 
fountain  of  cold  water  rises  in  graceful  jets  from  the  midst  of  the  warm  pool.  The 
depth  of  the  pool  is  graduated  from  three  and  a  half  to  five  and  a  half  feet,  and  the 
floor  is  of  pressed  brick,  the  walls  being  of  red  sandstone.  The  pool  is  uncovered. 
Hundreds  may  participate  in  the  delights  of  a  swim  at  the  same  time,  while  hundreds 
of  others  may  watch  the  bathers  from  the  bordering  promenades.  The  elegant  bath- 
house contains  a  large  number  of  bath-rooms  with  porcelain  tubs,  together  with  dress- 
ing and  lounging  room  for  each  bath-room,  ladies'  parlor,  smoking  and  reading  rooms, 
physician's  oflice,  etc. 

On  a  beautiful  terrace  above  the  swimming  pool  a  large  and  costly  hotel  is  being 
erected  to  meet  the  increasing  demands  of  health  and  pleasure  seekers.  This  is  to  be 
a  capacious  and  elegantly  appointed  establishment,  containing  large,  airy,  and  well- 
lighted  chambers,  ample  public  apartments,  roomy  verandas,  and  every  concomitant 
of  a  health  and  pleasure  resort  of  the  best  class.  The  surroundings  are  of  the  most 
picturesque  character,  and  many  charming  excursions  can  be  made  in  the  neighboring 
mountains  and  cafions.  The  hotel,  which  is  to  be  known  as  "The  Colorado,"  will  be 
opened  early  in  the  summer,  under  the  proprietorship  of  Mr.  W.  Raymond  of  Ray- 
mond &  Whitcomb,  with  Mr.  A.  W.  Bailey  as  manager.  The  train  will  halt  at  Glen- 
wood  Springs  several  hours. 

Glenwood  Springs  to  Denver. 

On  leaving  Glenwood  Springs  Friday  afternoon  the  traveler  passes  through  the 
cafion  of  the  Grand  River  for  a  distance  of  about  eighteen  miles.  Here  the  mountain 
walls  rise  in  towering  columns  and  gigantic  turrets  to  a  height  of  2,000  feet,  while  a 
torrent  roars  and  plunges  between.  In  places  the  rocks  are  flaming  red.  On  emerg- 
ing from  Grand  River  Caiion,  we  pass  through  an  open,  rolling  country  for  thirty  or 

161 


forty  miles,  at  the  farther  side  of  which  we  come  to  Eagle  River  Canon,  where  the 
abrupt  walls  are  dotted  with  mining  camps.  The  canon  ends  at  the  picturesque  little 
mining  town  of  Red  Cliff.  The  scenery  between  here  and  Leadville,  thirty-three 
miles  distant,  is  very  beautiful.     Lofty  mountains  are  seen  on  every  side. 

We  cross  the  continental  divide  at  Tennessee  Pass,  which  has  an  elevation  of 
10,418  feet, —  only  142  feet  less  than  two  miles, —  and  yet  this  is  called  "a  compara- 
tively low  and  easy  pass,"  as  such  things  are  classed  in  Colorado. 

A  dozen  miles  southeast  of  Tennessee  Pass  lies  Leadville,  the  great  "  Carbonate 
Camp,"  which  first  became  famous  in  1859  as  California  Gulch.  Between  1859  and 
1864,  $5,000,000  in  gold  dust  was  washed  from  the  ground  of  this  gulch.  Then  the 
place  was  nearly  abandoned,  but  in  1876  carbonate  beds  of  silver  were  discovered, 
and  the  "  camp  "  was  again  populated.  The  name  of  Leadville  was  now  bestowed 
upon  it,  and  from  a  small  figure  the  population  rose  to  about  30,000.  The  recent 
census  made  the  population  10,384.  The  elevation  of  the  city  is  10,200  feet.  From 
Leadville  we  descend  the  valley  of  the  Arkansas  to  Salida.  The  train  will  remain  at 
Salida  over  night,  and  Saturday  forenoon  will  be  devoted  to  an  excursion  by  narrow- 
gauge  cars  to  the  summit  of  the  famous  Marshall  Pass  and  return. 

As  the  train  enters  the  mountain  range  on  the  west  to  begin  the  ascent  to  Marshall 
Pass  glorious  views  are  had  of  many  towering  peaks.  Mount  Shavano  and  Ouray 
being  among  the  most  prominent.  Both  these  mountains  were  named  in  honor  of  Ute 
chiefs.  Mount  Ouray  has  an  elevation  of  14,055  feet,  while  Mount  Shavano  is  194 
feet  higher.  As  we  approach  the  summit  of  the  pass  (10,852  feet  in  elevation),  in 
many  twists  and  turns,  Ouray  rises  before  us  like  a  great  snow  dome  near  at  hand. 
Meanwhile  the  long  line  of  elevated  peaks  belonging  to  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range 
has  come  into  view  — a  glorious  chain  of  snow  summits,  many  of  the  beautiful  white 

162 


pyramids  reaching  above  14,000  feet.  The  maximum  grade  of  the  railway  over  which 
we  ride  is  211  feet  to  the  mile,  and  there  are  curves  that  reach  24  degrees  in  100  feet. 
At  one  place  the  train  goes  five  or  six  miles,  and  is  then  directly  opposite  its  former 
position,  but  1,000  feet  above.  In  the  middle  of  a  snow-shed  the  cars  finally  come  to 
a  halt,  and  we  are  again  on  the  ridgepole  of  the  continent,  and  over  two  miles  above 
the  level  of  the  sea. 

Returning  to  Salida  after  a  short  stay  at  the  summit,  we  resume  the  Pullman  train 
and  proceed  down  the  Arkansas  River  through  the  Grand  Cafion  and  the  Royal  Gorge 
to  Pueblo,  and  thence  via  Colorado  Springs  to  Manitou.  A  little  distance  below  Salida 
the  marvelous  scenery  of  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Arkansas  begins.  For  nearly  100 
miles  the  river  and  the  railway  keep  close  companionship,  and  the  course  of  the  former 
afforded  the  only  practicable  route  for  the  latter  through  this  mountainous  range. 
This  part  of  the  route  has  already  been  described  on  page  24.  Arriving  at  Manitou 
Saturday  evening  the  party  will  be  transferred  to  the  Barker  House  and  the  Cliff 
House,  to  remain  until  Monday  evening.  For  a  sketch  of  Manitou  see  page  24.  The 
ascent  of  Pike's  Peak  may  be  made  on  Monday  with  ease  by  the  new  cog  railroad. 
Denver  (page  25)  will  be  reached  in  the  night,  Monday,  the  train  being  side-tracked, 
and  Tuesday  will  be  devoted  to  that  city,  a  carriage  ride  being  a  feature. 

From   Denver  Eastward. 

The  party  will  leave  Denver  via  the  Omaha  &  Denver  Short  Line  of  the  Union 
Pacific  Railway,  Tuesday  evening,  June  20.  This  road  joins  the  main  line  at  Jules- 
burg,  198  miles  east  of  Denver.  We  enter  the  State  of  Nebraska  not  far  from  Jules- 
burg,  and  continue  along  the  banks  of  the  South  Platte  River  until  it  unites  with  the 
North  Platte,  eighty  miles  farther  east,  from  which  point  the  railway  follows  the  main 

163 


Platte  nearly  to  its  mouth.  Nebraska  has  an  area  of  75,995  square  miles,  —  a  greater 
area  than  England  and  Wales,  or  some  11,000  miles  more  than  the  six  New  England 
States  combined, —  and  yet  it  is  said  that  few  States  have  so  little  waste  land.  The 
section  of  the  State  we  enter  first  is  in  the  centre  of  the  cattle  region.  The  eastern 
part  of  the  State,  which  is  richly  cultivated  and  contains  many  populous  towns,  will 
be  traversed  by  daylight. 

Omaha  is  a  lively  and  flourishing  city  of  140,452  inhabitants.  This  is  a  gain  of  109,- 
934  in  ten  years.  It  is  finely  situated  on  the  western  shore  of  the  Missouri  River. 
The  business  section  covers  a  level  plateau,  and  contains  many  fine  structures.  It  is 
an  active  and  enterprising  business  centre,  and  commands  a  large  amount  of  trade  in 
every  branch.  Foundries,  smelting  works,  lead  works,  flouring  mills,  nail  factories, 
oil  factories,  pork-packing  houses,  distilleries,  and  breweries  are  found  here  on  a  large 
scale. 

Crossing  the  Missouri  River  by  the  magnificent  Union  Pacific  Bridge  to  Council 
Bluffs,  we  enter  o'lice  more  upon  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  Railway.  This 
line  passes  through  much  of  the  richest  and  most  interesting  portions  of  Iowa,  and 
some  of  the  most  populous  and  thriving  towns  and  cities  of  that  State.  Crossing  the 
Mississippi  River  between  Davenport  and  Rock  Island,  Illinois  is  reached,  and  we 
continue  at  once  toward  Chicago,  arriving  at  the  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Exposition 
station  on  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad,  and  transferring  thence  to  the  Raymond  & 
Whitcomb  Grand  Hotel,  early  Thursday  afternoon. 

The  Exposition  —  Chicago  to  Boston. 

A  stay  at  the  Columbian  Exposition  for  a  full  week  is  provided  for.  The  general 
scope  of  this  great  World's  Fair  will  be  found  described  on  pages  101-105,  while  pages 

164 


15-17  give  an  account  of  the  new  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand,  which  has  been  built 
for  the  exclusive  accommodation  of  our  various  parties.  The  stop  here  will  be  a 
fitting  culmination  of  the  journey. 

The  homeward  route,  the  party  leaving  Chicago  Thursday  afternoon,  June  29,  will 
be  from  the  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  station  to  Harvey,  111.,  by  the  Illinois  Central 
Railroad ;  thence  to  Port  Huron,  via  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway ;  across  the 
St.  Clair  River  by  the  new  tnnnel,  and  thence  to  Suspension  Bridge,  via  the  Southern 
Division  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  After  a  visit  to  Niagara  Falls  (page  105),  on 
Friday,  the  journey  will  be  resumed,  the  party  taking  the  West  Shore  Railroad  to 
Rotterdam  Junction  and  the  Fitchburg  Railroad,  through  the  Hoosac  Tunnel,  thence 
to  Boston,  arriving  at  the  Causeway  street  station  Saturday  forenoon,  July  i. 

In  the  course  of  the  tour  the  excursionists  will  pass  through  the  following  States 
and  Territories:  States — Massachusetts,  Vermont,  New  York,  Michigan,  Indiana, 
Illinois,  Iowa,  Missouri,  Kansas,  Colorado,  California,  Nevada,  and  Nebraska  (13); 
Territories  —  New  Mexico,  Arizona,  and  Utah  (3);  and  also  the  Province  of  Ontario 
in  Canada. 

Subject  only  to  such  slight  variations  as  may  be  required  because  of  changes  in  the 
time  of  running  regular  trains,  or  similar  causes,  the  itinerary  in  detail  will  be  as 
follows :  — 

ITINERARY. 

Monday,  April  2^  First  Day. —  Leave  Boston  from  the  station  of  the  Fitchburg  Railroad,  Cause- 
way street,  at  4.00  p.  m.,  and  proceed  westward  z//a  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  route  in  a  train  of  magnificent 
vestibuled  Pullman  palace  cars,  including  a  dining-car.  On  arrival  at  the  station,  members  of  the  party 
should  check  their  baggage  to  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs.  The  checks  will  be  taken  up  by  the  baggage- 
master  of  the  party,  who  will  attend  to  the  delivery,  collection,  and  transportation  of  the  baggage  during 
the  trip.    Tags  are  supplied  jvith  the  excursion  tickets,  and  these,  with  the  owner's  name  and  home 

165 


address  plainly  inscribed  thereon,  should  be  attached  to  every  trunk,  valise,  or  other  piece  of  baggage,  to 
serve  as  a  ready  means  of  identification.     Hand  luggage  must  be  looked  after  by  the  passengers. 

Tuesday,  April  25.  Second  Day. —  On  the  West  Shore  Railroa.l,  arriving  at  Buffalo  at  9.50  a.  m., 
and  at  Suspension  Bridge  at  11.00  a.  m.,  thus  crossing  the  Niagara  River  by  daylight ;  from  Suspension 
Bridge  westward  «//«  the  Southern  Division  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway;  from  Port  Huron,  Mich., 
westward  on  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

NoTH. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Port  Huron,  Mich.,  from  Eastern,  or  75th  meridian,  to  Central,  or 
90th  meridian  —  one  hour  slower. 

Wednesday,  April  26.  Third  Day. —  From  Blue  Island  Junction,  111.,  westward  z/zV?  the  Chicago, 
Rock  Island  &  Pacific  Railway. 

Thursday,  April  27.  Fourth  Day. —  Arrive  in  Kansas  City,  Mo.,  at  6.00  a.  m.;  leave  Kansas 
City  at  11.30  a.  M.  z/iVi  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad,  and  proceed  westward  through 
Kansas. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Dodge  City,  Kan.,  from  Central,  or  90th  meridian,  to  Mountain,  or 
105th  meridian  —  one  hour  slower. 

Friday,  April  28.  Fifth  Day. —  On  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad,  en  route  through 
Colorado  and  New  Mexico.  Arrive  at  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs  at  a  late  hour,  and  remain  on  the  sleep- 
ing-cars until  morning. 

Saturday,  April  29.  Sixth  Day. —  At  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs;  stay  at  The  Montezuma,  Clark 
D.  Frost,  manager. 

Sunday,  April  30,     Seventh  Day. —  At  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs. 

Monday,  May  i.  Eighth  Day. —  Leave  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs  at  12.00  m.,  and  Las  Vegas  at  i.oo 
p.  M.  ;  cross  the  Glorieta  Pass  by  daylight ;  from  Lamy  to  Santa  Fe  over  a  branch  line,  arriving  at  the 
latter  place  about  8.00  p.  m.  ;  remain  on  the  cars. 

Tuesday,  May  2.  Ninth  Day.—  At  Santa  Fe.  Leave  Santa  Fe  via  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa 
Fe  Railroad,  at  12.00  m.;  arrive  at  Albuquerque,  N.  M.,  at  4.00  p.  m.  ;  leave  Albuquerque,  via  the 
Atlantic  &  Pacific  Railroad,  at  5.00  p.  m. 

166 


Wednesday,  May  3.     Tenth  Day. —  En  route  through  Arizona  on  the  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Railroad. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Barstow  from  Mountain  standard,  or  150th  meridian,  to  Pacific 
standard,  or  120th  meridian  —  one  hour  slower. 

Thursday,  May  4.  Eleventh  Day. —  Arrive  at  Barstow,  Cal.,  at  an  early  hour,  and  thence  southward 
z/zVi  the  Southern  California  Railway  Company's  line;  arrive  at  San  Bernardino  at  11.00  a.  m.,  and  at 
Riverside  at  12.00  m  ;  leave  Riverside  at  lo.oo  p.  m.  for  Pasadena. 

Friday,  May  5.  Twelfth  Day. —  Arrive  at  Pasadena  at  8.00  a.  m.  ;  carriage  ride,  visiting  the  most 
beautiful  sections  of  Pasadena,  including  the  Raymond  Hill,  Raymond  avenue,  Orange  Grove  avenue, 
Colorado  street,  etc. ;  leave  Pasadena,  z/zia:  the  Southern  California  Railway,  at  12.58  p.  m.  ;  arrive  at 
Los  Angeles  at  1.25  p.  M. ;  omnibus  transfer  to  The  Westminster,  O.  T.  Johnson,  proprietor,  M.  M. 
Potter,  manager,  and  The  Hollenbeck,  E.  G.  Fay  &  Son  proprietors. 

Saturday,  May  6.     Thirteenth  Day. —  In  Los  Angeles. 

Sunday,  May  7.    Fourteenth  Day. —  In  Los  Angeles. 

Monday,  May  8.  Fifteenth  Day.  —  Transfer  from  the  hotels  to  the  Southern  California  Railway, 
Company's  station,  and  leave  Los  Angeles  at  8.15  A.  m.  ;  arrive  at  San  Diego  at  12.50  p.  M.;  omnibus 
transfer  from  the  station  to  the  Hotel  del  Coronado,  Coronado  Beach,  E.  S.  Babcock,  manager. 

Tuesday,  May  9.     Sixteenth  Day. —  At  Hotel  del  Coronado,  Coronado  Beach. 

Wednesday,  May  10.     Seventeenth  Day.  —  At  Hotel  del  Coronado,  Coronado  Beach. 

Thursday,  May  n.  Eighteenth  Day. —  Transfer  from  the  Hotel  del  Coronado  to  the  Southern 
California  station,  and  leave  San  Diego  at  8.40  a.  m.  by  the  Coast  line;  arrive  at  Redondo  Beach  at  2.15 
p.  M. ;  to  the  Redondo  Beach  Hotel,  G.  W.  Lynch,  manager. 

Friday,  May  12.    Nineteetith  Day. —  At  Redondo  Beach. 

Satwrday,  May  13.  Twentieth  Day. —  Leave  Redondo  Beach  by  the  Southern  California  Railway 
at  3.40  p.  M.,  and  leave  Los  Angeles,  via  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  line,  at  4.55  p.  m»;  arrive  in 
Santa  Barbara  at  9.35  p.  m.  :  omnibus  transfer  to  The  Arlington,  C.  C.  Wheeler,  manager,  and  the  San 
Marcos,  F.  A.  Shepard,  manager. 

167 


Sunday,  May  14.     Twenty -first  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

Monday,  May  15.  Twenty-second  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara.  Carriage  ride,  with  visits  to  the  most 
interesting  and  picturesque  parts  of  the  city  and  its  surroundings. 

NoTB. —  The  carriage  drive  can  be  taken  on  any  day  of  the  stay  in  Santa  Barbara. 

Tuesday,  May  16.     Twenty-third  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

Wednesday,  May  17.     Twenty-fourth  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

Thursday,  May  18.     Twenty-fifth  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

Friday,  May  19.     Twenty-sixth  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

Saturday,  May  20.     Twenty-seventh  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

Sunday,  May  21.     Twenty-eighth  Day. —  In  Santa  Barbara. 

Monday,  May  22.  Txventy-ninth  Day. — Transfer  from  The  ArUngton  and  The  San  Marcos  to  the 
station,  and  leave  Santa  Barbara  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  line  at  9.17  a.  m.;  dinner  at  the 
station  dining-room,  Saugus ;  supper  at  the  station  dining-room,  Mojave. 

Note. —  Parties  for  the  Yosemite  Valley  will  be  made  up  during  the  stay  at  Santa  Barbara,  to  leave 
on  different  days.     See  page  175. 

Tuesday,  May  23.  Thirtieth  Day. —  On  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  line  en  route  northward; 
breakfast  at  the  station  dining-room,  Lathrop;  arrive  at  Oakland  Pier  at  9.20  a.  m.,  and  in  San  Fran- 
cisco by  ferry  at  9.45  a.  m.  ;  transfer  from  the  Oakland  ferry,  foot  of  Market  street,  in  the  coaches  of 
the  United  Carriage  Company,  to  The  Baldwin,  E.  J.  Baldwin,  proprietor,  Colonel  R.  H.  Warfield, 
manager,  and  The  California,  A.  F.  Kinzler,  manager. 

Wednesday,  May  24.     Thirty-first  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

Thursday,  May  25.     Thirty-secoJtd  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

Friday,  May  26.     Thirty-third  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

Saturday,  May  27.     Thirty-fourth  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

Sunday,  Mav  28.     Thirty  fifth  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

168 


Monday,  May  29.  Thirty-sixth  Day. —  Transfer  from  The  Baldwin  and  The  California  to  the 
Alameda  ferry,  foot  of  Market  street,  and  leave  San  Francisco  by  the  Santa  Cruz  Division  of  the 
Southern  Pacific  Company's  line  at  8.15  a.  m.  ;  visit  the  "Big  Trees '*  ^«  r<7«/^,  and  arrive  in  Santa 
Cruz  at  i.oo  p.  m.;  dinner  at  the  Pacific  Ocean  House,  W.  J.  McCoUum,  proprietor,  the  Sea  Beach 
Hotel,  J.  T.  Sullivan,  proprietor,  the  Pope  House,  Mrs.  Pope,  proprietor,  or  the  Riverside  House,  Fred 
Barson,  proprietor;  carriage  ride,  visiting  the  beach,  cliff,  etc.;  leave  Santa  Cruz  at  3.40  p.  M.,and 
proceed  to  Monterey  via  Pajaro,  arriving  at  Hotel  del  Monte  station  at  6.15  p.  m.;  carriage  transfer  to 
the  Hotel  del  Monte,  George  Schonewald,  manager. 

Tuesday,  May  30.     Thirty -seventh  Day. —  At  Hotel  del  Monte,  Monterey. 

Wednesday,  May  31.     Thirty-eighth  Day. —  At  Hotel  del  Monte,  Monterey. 

Thursday,  June  i.     Thirty-ninth  Day. —  At  Hotel  del  Monte,  Monterey. 

Friday,  June  2.     Fortieth  Day. —  At  Hotel  del  Monte,  Monterey. 

Saturday,  June  3.  Forty-first  Day. —  Transfer  to  the  Hotel  del  Monte  station,  and  leave  at  1.38 
p.  M. ;  arrive  in  San  Jose  at  4.21  p.  m.  ;  omnibus  transfer  to  the  Hotel  Vendome,  George  P.  Snell, 
manager. 

Sunday,  June  4.     Forty-second  Day. —  In  San  Jose. 

Monday,  June  5.  Forty-third  Day. —  In  San  Jose.  Stage  excursion  to  the  Lick  Observatory,  on 
the  summit  of  Mount  Hamilton,  leaving  the  Hotel  Vendome  in  the  morning,  and  returning  in  the 
afternoon. 

Tuesday,  June  6,     Forty-fourth  Day. —  In  San  Jose. 

Wednesday,  June  7.  Forty-fifth  Day. —  In  San  Jose.  Transfer  to  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's 
station,  and  leave  San  Jose  at  4.21  p.  m.  ;  arrive  in  San  Francisco  at  6.10  p.  M. ;  transfer  from  the  Third 
and  Townsend  streets  station  to  The  Baldwin  and  The  California  in  the  coaches  of  the  United  Carriage 
Company. 

Thursday,  June  8.     Forty-sixth  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

Friday,  June  9.     Forty-seventh  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

Saturday,  June  to.     Forty-eighth  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

169 


Sunday,  June  ii.    Forty-ninth  Day. —  In  San  Francisco. 

Monday,  June  12.  Fiftieth  Day. — Transfer  from  The  Baldwin  and  The  California  to  the  Oakland 
ferry,  foot  of  Market  street,  and  leave  San  Francisco  at  4.00  p.  m.  ;  from  Oakland  Pier  eastward,  via  the 
Southern  Pacific  Company's  Ogden  line,  in  a  train  of  Pullman  palace  cars,  inclusive  of  a  Pullman  palace 
dining-car  ;  arrive  at  Sacramento  at  8.00  p.  m. 

Tuesday,  June  13.  Fifty-first  Day. —  In  Sacramento;  leave  at  12.30  p.m.,  and  cross  the  Sierra 
Nevadas  by  daylight. 

Wednesday,  June  14.  Fifty-second  Day. —  En  route  through  Nevada  and  Utah.  Arrive  at  Ogden, 
U.  T.,  at  11.00  p.  M.,  and  leave  there  via  the  Rio  Grande  Western  Railway  without  change  of  cars.  On 
arrival  at  Salt  Lake  City  the  train  will  be  side-tracked  during  the  night  and  the  succeeding  forenoon. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Ogden  from  Pacific  standard,  or  120th  meridian,  to  Mountain 
standard,  or  105th  meridian  —  one  hour  faster. 

Thursday,  June  15.  Fifty -third  Day. —  In  Salt  Lake  City.  Leave  at  i.oo  p.  m.  via  the  Rio  Grande 
Western  Railway. 

-Friday,  June  16.  Fifty  fourth  Day. —  On  the  Rio  Grande  Western  and  Denver  &  Rio  Grande 
Railroads  en  route  through  Colorado.  Arrive  at  Glenwood  Springs  at  8.00  a.  m.  ;  leave  Glenwood 
Sprmgs  at  i.oo  p.  M. ;  pass  through  the  canon  of  the  Grand  River,  the  caiion  of  the  Eagle  River,  and  over 
Tennessee  Pass  by  daylight ;  arrive  at  Leadville  at  7.00  p.  m.  ;  leave  Leadville  at  9.00  p.  m.;  arrive  at 
Salida  at  12.00  midnight. 

Saturday,  June  17.  Fifty-fifth  Z>^j/.~Side  trip  on  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  from 
Salida  to  the  summit  of  Marshall  Pass  and  return  on  narrow  gauge  cars,  leaving  Salida  at  7.45  a.  m.,  and 
returning  at  12.45  p-  m.  ;  leave  Salida  at  i.oo  p.  M.,  and  proceed  over  the  main  Une  of  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande  Railroad  through  the  Royal  Gorge,  etc. ;  arrive  at  Manitou  Springs  at  g.oo  p.  m.  ;  omnibus  trans- 
fer to  the  Barker  House  and  Cliff  House. 

Sunday,  June  18.     Fifty-sixth  Day.—  At  Manitou  Springs, 

Monday,  June  19.  Fifty-seventh  Day.—  At  Manitou  Springs.  Transfer  from  the  hotels  to  the  sta- 
tion, and  leave  at  10.00  p.  m.  via  the  Denver  &  Rio  (irande  Railroad. 

170 


Tuesday,  June  20.  Fifty -eighth  Day. —  In  Denver.  The  cars  will  be  placed  upon  a  side  track  to 
remain  until  afternoon  ;  leave  Denver  at  5.00  p.  m.  via  the  Omaha  and  Denver  Short  Line  of  the  Union 
Pacific  Railway;  breakfast,  lunch,  and  dinner  on  dining-car.  Carriage  ride,  visiting  the  capitol  and  other 
leading  places  of  interest. 

Wednesday,  June  21.  Fifty-ninth  Day. —  On  the  Union  Pacific  Railway  ^«  ri7w/?<f  through  Nebraska; 
arrive  at  Omaha  at  4.00  p.  m.  and  at  Council  Bluffs  at  4.30  p.  m.  ;  leave  Council  Bluffs  at  5.30  p.  m.  via 
the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  Railway. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  North  Platte,  Neb.,  from  Mountain  standard,  or  105th  meridian, 
to  Central  standard,  or  goth  meridian  —  one  hour  faster. 

Thursday,  June  22.  Sixtieth  Day. —  On  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific  Railway  en  route 
through  Iowa  and  Illinois;  arrive  in  Chicago  (Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  Exposition  station  on  the  Illinois 
Central  Railroad)  at  i.oo  p.  m.  ;  transfer  to  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand. 

Friday,  June  23.     Sixty-first  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Saturday,  June  24.     Sixty-second  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Sunday,  June  25.     Sixty-third  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Monday,  June  26.     Sixty-fourth  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Tuesday,  June  27.     Sixty-fifth  Day.—  In  Chicago. 

Wednesday,  June  28.     Sixty-sixth  Day.--  In  Chicago. 

Thursday,  June  29.  Sixty-seventh  Day. —  In  Chicago.  Transfer  from  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb 
Grand  to  Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  Exposition  station,  and  leave  Chicago  at  3.00  p.  M. ;  to  Harvey,  111., 
on  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad,  and  thence  eastward  via  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

Note. —  Passengers  returning  to  Chicago  independently  must  notify  Carroll  Hutchins,  agent  for 
Messrs.  Raymond  &  Whitcomb,  at  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand,  Midway  Plaisance,  Chicago,  at 
least  one  week  in  advance  of  their  arrival,  in  order  to  insure  hotel  accommodations. 

Members  of  the  party  who  return  eastward  independently  from  Chicago  or  any  point  west  thereof  will 
be  required  to  exchange  their  eastbound  passage  and  sleeping-car  coupons  at  the  ticket  office  of  the 
Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  at  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway  Crossing,  Blue  Island  Junction  ; 
or  at  the  Dearborn  station  (Polk  street,  at  the  head  of  Dearborn  street),  Chicago;    or  at  the  city  ticket 

171 


office  of  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  103  South  Clark  street,  Chicago,  E.  H.  Hughes,  agent; 
or  at  Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  office  in  the  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  Hotel,  Midway  Plaisance, 
Carroll  Hutchins,  agent.  All  applications  in  advance  for  sleeping-car  berths  should  be  addressed  to 
Mr.  Hutchins  or  Mr.  Hughes.  Niagara  Falls  is  the  only  place  east  of  Chicago  where  "  stop-overs  "  are 
allowed. 

Friday,  June  30.  Sixty -eighth  Day. —  Arrive  at  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y.,  at  9.00  a.  m.,  and  remain 
until  afternoon  ;  leave  Niagara  Falls  at  4.42  p.  m.,  and  proceed  eastward  via  the  West  Shore  Railroad. 

Note. —  Railway  time  changes  at  Port  Huron,  Mich. ,  from  Central  standard,  or  90th  meridian,  to 
Eastern  standard,  or  75th  meridian  —  one  hour  faster. 

Saturday,  July  i.  Sixty-ninth  Day. —  From  Rotterdam  Junction  eastward  via  the  Fitchburg 
Railroad;  arrive  in  Boston  (Fitchburg  Railroad  station.  Causeway  street)  at  10.00  a.  m. 

Table  of  Distances. 

MILES. 

From  Boston  to  Rotterdam  Junction,  N.  Y.,  Fitchburg  Railroad 212 

'*      Rotterdam  Junction  to  Suspension  Bridge,  West  Shore  Railroad. 292 

"      Suspension  Bridge  to  Port  Huron,  Mich.,  Southern  Division  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway    180 

"       Port  Huron,  Mich.,  to  Blue  Island  Junction,  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway 311 

"      Blue  Island  Junction  to  Kansas  City,  Mo.,  Chicago,  Rock  Lsland  &  Pacific  Railway 501 

"      Kansas  City,  Mo.,  to  Las  Vegas,  N.  M.,(786  miles),  Las  Vegas  to  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs 
and  return  (12  miles),  Las  Vegas  to  Lamy  (65  miles),  Lamy  to  Santa  Fe  and  return  (36  miles), 

and  Lamy  to  Albuquerque  (68  miles),  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad 967 

**      Albuquerque  to  Barstow,  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Railroad 747 

**      Barstow  to  Riverside  (90  miles).  Riverside  to  Los  Angeles  (70  miles),  Los  Angeles  to  San 
Diego  and  return  (254  miles),  and  Los  Angeles  to  Redondo  Beach  and  return  (45  miles), 

Southern  California  Railway  Company's  line 459 

*'      Los  Angeles  to  Santa  Barbara  (no  miles),  and  Santa  Barbara  to  San  Francisco  (528  miles), 

Southern  Pacific  Company's  Railway 638 

Distances  carried  forward 4,307 

172 


MILES. 

Distances  brought  forward 4*307 

From  San  Francisco  to  Santa  Cruz,  Southern  Pacific  Company's  narrow  gauge  line 80 

**      Santa  Cruz  to  Hotel  del  Monte,  Monterey  (47  miles),  and  thence  to  San  Jose  (74  miles), 

Southern  Pacific  Company's  Monterey  line 12 1 

San  Jose  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Hamilton  and  return,  Mount  Hamilton  Stage  Company....  52 

San  Jose  to  San  Francisco,  Southern  Pacific  Company's  Monterey  line 50 

San  Francisco  to  Ogden,  U.  Ter,,  Southern  Pacific  Company's  Ogden  line 835 

Ogden  to  Grand  Junction,  Colo.,  Rio  Grande  Western  Railway 328 

Grand  Junction  to  Salida,  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad 239 

Salida  to  Marshall  Pass  and  return,  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad  (narrow  gauge) 50 

Saiida  to  Manitou  Springs  (148  miles),  and  Manitou  Springs  to  Denver  (81  miles),  Denver  & 

Rio  Grande  Railroad 229 

Denver  to  Council  Bluffs,  Union  Pacific  Railway 572 

Council  Bluffs  to  Chicago  (Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Exposition  station),  Chicago,  Rock   Island 

&  Pacific  Railway,  and  Illinois  Central  Railroad 498 

Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Exposition  station  to  Harvey,  111.,  Illinois  Central  Railroad 14 

Harvey  to  Port  Huron,  Mich.,  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway 308 

Port  Huron  to  Suspension  Bridge,  Southern  Division  of  Grand  Trunk  Railway 180 

Suspension  Bridge  to  Rotterdam  Junction,  N.  Y.,  West  Shore  Railroad 292 

Rotterdam  Junction  to  Boston,  Fitchburg  Railroad 212 

Total 8,367 


'73 


W.   RAYMOND, 

Proprietor. 


QLENWOOD     SPRINGS,     COLO. 


A.    W.    BAILEY, 

Manager. 


THE  YOSEMITE  VALLEY.   . 


A   Side   Trip   in   Connection    with    the    Three   California 

Excursions. 


THE  wonderful  Yosemite  Valley  may  be  visited  to  the  best  possible  advantage  in 
connection  with  the  three  excursions  that  have  been  described  in  the  foregoing 
pages.     Each  of  these  parties  will  be  in  Southern  and  Central  California  during 
the  latter  part  of  May.     By  that  time  the  roads  into  the  valley  are  usually  well  settled, 
the  country  is  fresh  with  the  flowers  and  foliage  of  spring,  and  the  waterfalls  are  full. 
The  Yosemite  trip  includes  also  the  famous  Big  Tree  Groves. 

The  valley  lies  in  the  heart  of  the  wSierra  Nevada  Mountains,  150  miles  nearly 
due  east  from  San  Francisco.  The  principal  features  of  the  Yosemite  are,  first, 
the  near  approach  of  its  walls  to  verticality  ;  second,  their  great  height,  not  only 
absolutely,  but  as  compared  with  the  width  of  the  valley  itself;  and,  third,  the  small 
amount  of  debris  at  the  base  of  the  cliffs.  The  floor  of  the  valley  is  a  generally  level 
or  rolling  wooded  park,  ranging  from  half  a  mile  to  a  mile  in  width.  It  is  immediately 
bordered  by  cliffs,  nearly  or  quite  vertical,  rising  to  heights  ranging  from  over  half  a 
mile  to  almost  one  mile  above  the  valley.  Elevations  above  the  sea  are  as  follows  : 
Floor  of  the  valley,  4,000  feet;  El  Capitan,  7,300  feet;  Cathedral  Rocks,  6,660  feet; 
Gl-acier  Point,  7,200  feet ;  Half  Dome,  8,737  feet ;  Three  Brothers,  7,830  feet ;  North 
Dome,  7,568  feet;  Washington  Column,  5,875  feet.  The  waterfalls  are  hardly  less 
marvelous  than  the  cliffs  —  the  Yosemite,  2,600  feet  in  height,  the  highest  fall  in  the 
known  world;  the  Bridal  Veil,  dashing  into  spray  from  an  altitude  of  900  feet;  and 

175 


the  Vernal  and  Nevada  falls  of  the  Merced  river,  400  and  600  feet  in  height  and  of 
large  volume. 

The  Big  Tree  Groves,  Calaveras  and  Mariposa  best  known,  are  found  only  on  the 
western  slope  of  the  Sierra,  at  an  elevation  of  5,000  to  7,000  feet.  The  largest  growth 
is  115  feet  in  circumference,  the  greatest  height  325  feet,  and  some  of  these  giants  are 
from  1,500  to  2,000  years  old. 

It  has  been  deemed  advisable  to  make  the  visit  to  the  Yosemite  Valley  and  the  Big 
Trees  a  side  or  supplementary  trip,  at  a  slight  additional  expense,  the  same  as  in  pre- 
vious years,  rather  than  to  include  itin  the  regular  round.  This  course  is  taken  in  order 
that  every  person  may  exercise  his  or  her  own  preference  in  the  matter,  not  only  in 
reference  to  making  the  trip,  but  also  in  regard  to  the  time  to  be  occupied  in  connection 
therewith.  As  will  be  seen  from  the  itineraries  of  the  regular  tours  on  pages  108,  137, 
and  168,  an  unusual  allowance  of  time  has  been  given  to  Santa  Barbara  and  San  Fran- 
cisco. The  Yosemite  may  be  visited  during  this  interval,  with  a  sufficient  stay  in  the 
valley,  without  slighting  either  of  the  cities  named.  The  parties  for  the  valley  will 
leave  Santa  Barbara  on  different  days  during  the  advertised  halt  there,  and  rejoin 
those  of  their  associates  who  do  not  go  to  the  valley  in  San  Francisco. 

Berenda,  304  miles  from  Los  Angeles  and  178  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  the 
point  of  departure  from  the  main  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad.  A  branch 
road  extends  from  Berenda  to  Raymond,  twenty-one  miles,  from  which  latter  point  the 
stages  run.  The  stage  transportation  will  be  furnished  by  the  Yosemite  Valley  Stage 
&  Turnpike  Company.  No  horseback  riding  is  now  required  to  reach  either  the 
Yosemite  Valley  or  the  Mariposa  Groves  of  Big  Trees.  The  distance  from  Raymond 
to  the  Wawona  Hotel,  Big  Tree  Station  (formerly  known  as  Clarke's),  is  only  thirty- 
four  miles,  and  from  thence  to  the  valley  twenty-six  miles.     Special  and  very  advan- 

176 


tageous  arrangements  have  been  made  for  the  accommodation  of  the  members  of  our 
parties,  and  the  expense  of  the  trip  will  be  comparatively  light. 

The  cost  of  the  ticket,  covering  rail  way  and  stage  transportation  from  Berenda  to  the 
Big  Trees  and  Yosemite  Valley,  returning  to  Berenda,  is  thirty-five  dollars.  As 
the  trip  will  be  made  during  some  portion  of  the  period  allotted  to  the  sojourn  in  Santa 
Barbara,  or  San  Francisco,  some  of  the  hotel  coupons  will  remain  unused.  All  such 
will  be  redeemed,  thus  lessening  the  cost.  The  sleeping-car  ticket  (good  from  Los 
Angeles  to  San  Francisco)  will  be  taken  up  before  Berenda  is  reached,  and  cannot  be 
used  on  a  subsequent  date.  Therefore,  Yosemite  Valley  excursionists  who  desire 
sleeping-car  or  drawing-room  car  places  from  Berenda  to  San  Francisco  will  be 
required  to  pay  for  the  same.  Hotel  accommodations  at  Wawona  and  in  the  Yosemite. 
Valley,  and  meals  en  route^  are  also  extra.  The  entire  cost  of  the  trip,  including 
transportation,  board,  meals,  excursions  in  and  about  the  valley,  etc.,  after  deducting 
the  value  of  unused  hotel  coupons  in  the  regular  excursion  ticket  book,  will  be  less 
than  $50. 

As  it  is  essential  that  all  arrangements  for  stage  transportation  and  hotel  accommo- 
dations shall  be  made  in  advance  of  the  arrival  of  the  parties  in  California,  persons 
desiring  to  make  the  trip  are  requested  to  purchase  their  stage  tickets  for  the  Yosemite 
tour  when  the  general  excursion  tickets  are  taken  before  starting  from  the  East. 

Tourists  usually  spend  about  three  days  in  the  valley,  the  headquarters  being  at 
the  Stoneman  House.  This  is  sufficient  time  for  a  leisurely  viewing  of  the  wonderful 
scenery.  The  Big  Trees  are  visited  en  route  while  returning  from  the  valley  to  Ray- 
mond. With  a  three  days*  stay,  exactly  one  week  is  required  for  the  trip  from  Santa 
Barbara  via  the  Yosemite  and  the  Big  Trees  to  San  Francisco,  the  itinerary  being 
substantially  as  follows  :  — 

177 


ITINERARY. 

First  Day. —  Leave  Santa  Barbara  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's  line  at  9.17  a.  m.  ;  dinner  at 
the  station  dining-room,  Saugus ;  supper  at  the  station  dining-room,  Mojave. 

Second  Day. — Arrive  at  Berenda  at  3.25  a.  m.,  and  Raymond  (by  the  Southern  Pacific  Company's 
Yosemite  Division)  at  5.50  a.  m.  ;  breakfast  at  Raymond;  leave  Raymond  by  the  Yosemite  Stage  and 
Turnpike  Company's  stages  at  7.00  a.  m.  ;  lunch  at  Ahwahnee ;  arrive  at  the  Wawona  Hotel,  Wawona, 
at  6.00  p.  M. 

Third  Day. —  Leave  Wawona  by  stage  at  6.00  a.  m.  ;  arrive  in  the  Yosemite  Valley,  Stoneman 
House,  at  12.00  noon. 

Fourth  Day.— In  the  Yosemite  Valley. 

Fifth  Day. —  In  the  Yosemite  Valley. 

Sixth  Day. —  In  the  Yosemite  Valley.  Leave  the  Stoneman  House  by  stage  at  i.oo  p.  m.;  arrive  at 
the  Wawona  Hotel,  Wawona,  at  7.00  p.  m. 

Seventh  Day. —  Leave  Wawona  by  stage  at  7.00  a.  m.  via  the  Mariposa  Grove  of  Big  Trees  ;  lunch 
at  Ahwahnee;  arrive  at  Raymond  at  6.00  p.  m.;  supper  at  Raymond;  leave  Raymond  by  the  Southern 
Pacific  line  at  7.00  p.  m. 

Eighth  Day. —  On  the  Southern  Pacific  Xva^  en  route  northward;  breakfast  at  the  station  dining- 
room,  Lathrop;  arrive  at  Oakland  Pier  at  9.20  a.  m.,  and  in  San  Francisco  by  ferry  at  9.45  a.  m. 


•  Tickets  for  the  Yosemite  trip  in  connection  with  any  of  our  transcontinental 
excursions,  additional  copies  of  this  circular,  and  all  needed  information  can  be 
obtained  of 

RAYMOND  &  WHITCOMB,  296  Washington  Si.  (opposite  Scliool  St.),  Boston. 
178 


A     SPLENDID     TOUR     TO 


• ALASKA • 

IN   CONNECTION   WITH 

A  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT  BY  THE  CANADIAN  PACIFIC  RAILWAY, 


INCLUDING  VISITS   TO 


Winnipeg,    Banff    Hot    Springs,    the    Glacier    of    the    Selkirks,   Victoria, 

ALASKA,   the   PACIFIC    NORTHWEST,   the  YELLOWSTONE   NATIONAL   PARK,  and   the 
COLUIVLBIAN     EXPOSITION. 


THE  PARTY  TO  LEAVE  BOSTON  WEDNESDAY,  MftY  24,  AND  TO  RETURN  FRIDAY,  JULY  14. 


Price  of  Tickets  (all  traveling  and   hotel  expenses  included),   $550.00 


RAYMOND    »•    AVHIXCOMB, 

296    Washington    Street    (opposite    School    Street),     Boston. 

179 


Third    Annual    Spring    Excursion    to 

The  Canadian  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Pacific  Northwest, 

^V  ALASKA    ^^ 

And   the  Yellowstone    National   Park,  with   a   Visit   to   the 

Columbian    Exposition. 


NIAY    24    TO    JULY    14,    1893. 


OUR  third  annual  spring  excursion  across  the  continent  by  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway,  and  thence  to  Alaska,  returning  by  the  Northern  Pacific  road,  and  includ- 
ing the  Yellowstone  National  Park,  has  been  arranged  for  the  accommodation  of 
persons  who  may  not  be  able  to  join  the  earlier  party  for  California  and  Alaska,  and  of 
those  who  wish  to  omit  Colorado  and  California  from  their  round  of  travel.  The  tourists 
in  this  instance  also  will  visit  the  World's  Columbian  Exposition  on  the  return  journey. 
Their  route  is  to  be  from  Boston  to  Montreal,  and  thence  westward  via  Winnipeg  and 
the  entire  Canadian  Pacific  line,  through  the  grandest  railroad  scenery  on  the  conti- 
nent, that  of  the  Canadian  Rocky  Mountains.  At  Tacoma  the  party  will  join  the  one 
whose  tour  was  described  in  the  first  part  of  this  book,  and  will  continue  with  it 
throughout  the  Alaska  voyage  and  until  the  return  to  Boston. 

i8i 


An  outline  of  the  trip  is  given  below.  The  price  of  tickets  is  $550.  This  includes 
all  traveling  and  hotel  expenses,  transfers,  and  carriage  rides  mentioned  in  the  itinerary, 
with  an  entire  double  berth  (half  a  section)  in  the  sleeping-cars,  and  one-half  a  state- 
room  (not  more  than  two   persons  in  each  stateroom)  on  the   steamer  during  the 

Alaska  voyage. 

W.  RAYMOND. 
I.  A.  WHITCOMB. 


For  tickets  (which  must  be  taken  on  or  before  Saturday,  May  20,  four  days  previous 
to  the  date  of  departure)  and  all  information  regarding  the  excursion,  address 

RAYMOND  &  WHITCOMB,  296  Washington  St.  (opposite  Soliool  St.),  Boston. 


A  TRANSCONTINENTAL  TOUR. 


Journeys  Through  the  Grandest  Scenery  in  America. 

As  the  May  party  makes  both  the  Alaska  voyage  and  the  homeward  journey  in  con- 
nection with  the  Alaska  excursion  already  described,  the  only  part  of  the  trip  calling 
for  separate  mention  is  that  which  lies  between  Boston  and  Tacoma  on  the  outward 
route.  The  reader  will  find  the  remainder  of  the  journey  outlined  as  follows:  The 
general  features  of  our   spring   tours,  page  3;  Seattle   and   Tacoma,  page  81 ;  from 

182 


Tacoma  to  Sitka  and  return,  page  56 ;  Portland  and  vicinity,  page  53 ;  the  eastbound 
trip  over  the  Northern  Pacific  road,  including  the  Yellowstone  Park,  page  82;  Min- 
neapolis and  St.  Paul  and  thence  to  Chicago,  page  99 ;  the  stay  at  the  World's  Fair, 
pages  15  and  1 01 ;  and  from  Chicago  homeward,  page  105.  The  descriptive  pages 
here  referred  to  should  be  read  in  connection  with  the  itinerary  to  be  given  hereafter. 

From  Boston  to  the  Summit  of  the  Rockies. 

The  party  will  leave  Boston  from  the  Southern  Division  station  of  the  Boston  and 
Maine  Railroad  (the  Lowell  station)  at  9  o'clock  Wednesday  morning,  May  24,  and 
arrive  in  Montreal  in  the  evening.  The  headquarters  there  will  be  at  the  Windsor 
Hotel,  on  Dominion  Square.  There  is  to  be  a  carriage  ride  Thursday  morning  to  the 
principal  churches,  the  business  parts  of  the  city,  and  Mt.  Royal  Park.  The  view  from 
the  mountain  is  most  beautiful,  including  the  entire  city,  the  river  and  its  islands,  the 
Victoria  Bridge,  and  a  large  extent  of  country. 

After  a  day  in  Montreal  we  leave  that  city  Thursday  evening  by  Canada's  great 
national  highway,  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway.  The  distance  to  the  Pacific  ocean  is 
over  2,900  miles.  Passing  Ottawa  in  the  night,  the  route  on  Friday  traverses  a  lake 
and  timber  region,  and  the  following  day  skirts  for  nearly  200  miles  the  rocky  shores 
of  Lake  Superior.  We  arrive  in  Winnipeg  early  Sunday  morning.  Winnipeg  is  the 
capitol  of  Manitoba,  has  some  28,000  inhabitants,  and  is  well  situated  on  the  Assini- 
boine  and  Red  Rivers.  The  famous  Hudson  Bay  Company  has  its  headquarters  here. 
The  Manitoba  is  a  fine  new  hotel.  We  leave  Winnipeg  Monday  afternoon.  May  29, 
and  between  that  city  and  the  mountains  cross  nine  hundred  miles  of  wheat  fields 
succeeded  by  broad  plains. 

Entering  the  Rocky  Mountains  at  Canmore  we  have  for  four  days  a  constant  succes- 

183 


sion  of  the  grandest  views.  Our  first  stop  is  at  Banff,  where  in  the  heart  of  the 
mountains,  amid  scenery  of  the  most  impressive  character,  the  Dominion  government 
has  made  a  reservation  of  a  tract  twenty-six  miles  long  and  ten  miles  wide,  inclusive  of 
a  remarkable  group  of  hot  sulphur  springs,  as  a  national  park.  A  hotel,  which  cost 
over  $300,000  and  contains  every  modern  luxury,  including  baths  supplied  from  the 
hot  springs,  has  been  erected  by  the  railway  company,  and  roads  and  bridle  paths  to 
the  various  points  of  interest  in  the  vicinity  have  been  constructed.  After  a  day's 
rest  at  Banff  we  resume  our  westward  journey  through  the  range.  At  Stephen  we  are 
at  an  elevation  of  5,296  feet,  and  at  the  summit  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Mount 
Stephen  towers  8,240  feet  above  our  heads,  or  over  13,500  feet  above  the  sea  level,  a 
bold,  precipitous  peak  of  very  striking  form.  High,  towards  its  castellated  summit, 
are  two  glaciers,  one  being  seen  upon  the  eastern  approach  and  the  other  upon  pass- 
ing its  massive  front. 

A  peculiarity  of  the  ascent  of  the  Rockies  from  the  plains  to  the  point  of  highest 
elevation  above  sea  level,  is  that  it  is  almost  imperceptible,  being  continued  over  hun- 
dreds of  miles  at  an  average  of  not  more  than  fifteen  feet  to  the  mile.  Then  sud- 
denly, on  the  western  slope,  the  descent  from  the  Rockies  into  the  valley,  or  gorge, 
between  that  range  and  the  Selkirks,  is  made  in  one  grand  downward  plunge.  The 
descent  is  by  a  grade  of  234  feet  to  the  mile,  and  involves  some  of  the  most  daring 
engineering,  as  well  as  the  finest  appliances  of  train  running,  to  be  found  upon  any 
railway  in  the  world.  Although  the  total  length  of  the  Wapta,  or  Kicking  Horse 
River,  is  only  forty-seven  miles,  its  descent  is  2,800  feet.  Down  beside  this  rapid 
stream  the  railway  twists  and  turns,  now  far  above  its  turbulent  waters,  and  then  at 
its  level,  while  on  every  side  are  new  and  startling  pictures  of  grandeur.  At  Golden, 
a  mining  town  forty-four  miles  west  of  the  summit  and  2,746  feet  below  it,  we  emerge 

184 


from  the  canon.  The  broad  river  ahead  of  us  is  the  Columbia,  moving  northward ; 
and  the  supremely  beautiful  mountains  beyond  are  the  Selkirks,  rising  from  their 
forest-clad  bases,  and  lifting  their  ice-crowned  heads  far  into  the  sky. 

The  Selkirks  and  the  Cafions  Beyond. 

Crossing  the  Columbia  north  of  Donald  the  railroad  enters  the  Selkirks  through 
the  Gate  of  Beaver  River.  A  little  way  up  the  Beaver  the  line  crosses  to  the  right 
bank,  where,  notched  into  the  mountain-side,  it  rises  at  the  grade  of  ii6feettothe 
mile,  and  the  river  is  soon  left  i,ooo  feet  below.  There  are  numerous  bridges  across 
the  ravines,  which  are  generally  the  beds  of  mountain  torrents.  The  greatest  of  these 
structures  crosses  Stony  Creek  —  a  noisy  rill  flowing  at  the  bottom  of  a  V-shaped 
channel,  295  feet  below  the  rails.  Reaching  the  summit  and  descending  toward  the 
west  we  are  soon  directly  in  front  of  the  Great  Glacier  of  the  Selkirks.  We  halt  here, 
at  the  Glacier  House,  from  Thursday  until  Friday  afternoon.  The  Glacier  is  between 
one  and  two  miles  away,  and  may  easily  be  reached.  A  good  path  has  been  made  to 
the  great  ice  field,  which  is  miles  in  extent  and  several  hundreds  of  feet  thick. 

Resuming  our  westward  journey,  we  descend  the  Selkirks  beside  the  winding  Ille- 
cillewaet  through  scenes  of  surpassing  beauty.  A  short  distance  below  Glacier  House 
is  the  Loop,  where  the  railway  describes  a  succession  of  bewildering  twists  and  curves. 
The  mountain  views  are  often  superb,  and  every  turn  of  the  devious  pathway  brings 
.fresh  scenic  marvels.  The  second  crossing  of  the  Columbia  is  at  Revelstoke.  We 
have  traveled  across  the  mountainous  peninsula  formed  by  the  great  bend  of  the 
Columbia,  a  distance  of  seventy-eight  miles,  while  the  river  flows  over  200  miles  and 
descends  1,050  feet.  From  the  Columbia  the  road  ascends  by  an  easy  grade  to  Eagle 
Pass,  in  the  Gold  or  Columbia  Range,  west  of  which  lies  the  interior  lake  region  of 

i8s 


British  Columbia.  The  Eagle  River  leads  us  down  to  the  Great  Shuswap  Lake.  The 
railway  crosses  an  arm  of  the  lake  at  Sicamous  Narrows,  and  then  encircles  the 
southern  sweep  of  Salmon  Arm.  Descending  westward,  we  reach  the  Thompson 
River  Valley.  Kamloops,  the  principal  town  of  this  region,  is  situated  at  the 
junction  of  the  north  fork  of  the  Thompson  and  the  main  stream.  t 

At  Savona's  Ferry  the  lake  ends,  the  mountains  draw  near,  and  the  series  of  Thomp- 
son River  Canons  leading  westward  to  the  Fraser  River  is  entered.  At  Lytton  the 
canon  suddenly  widens  to  admit  the  Fraser,  the  chief  i^river  of  the  Province,  which 
comes  down  from  the  north  between  two  great  lines  of  mountain  peaks.  The 
scenery  becomes  even  wilder  than  before.  Six  miles  below  Lytton  the  train  crosses 
the  Fraser  by  a  steel  cantilever  bridge,  high  above  the  water.  The  line  follows  the 
right  wall  of  the  canon  from  this  point  onward.  The  roadway  in  many  places  was 
carved  from  the  solid  rock,  the  river  being  left  surging  and  swirling  hundreds  of  feet 
below.  The  principal  canon  of  the  Fraser  begins  four  miles  below  North  Bend,  and 
thence  to  Yale,  a  distance  of  twenty-three  miles,  the  scenery  is  both  interesting  and 
startling.  The  great  river  is  forced  between  vertical  walls  of  black  rocks,  and  foams 
and  roars  against  impending  masses.  The  railway  is  cut  into  the  cliffs  200  feet  or 
more  above,  and  the  jutting  spurs  of  rock  are  pierced  by  tunnels  in  quick  succession. 
Below  Yale  the  canon  widens,  and  is  soon  succeeded  by  a  broad,  level  valley,  with 
rich  soil  and  heavy  timber.  At  Mission  Junction  we  take  a  branch  line  southward  to 
New  Whatcom,  on  Puget  Sound,  and  thence  we  proceed  to  Seattle. 

The  party  will  arrive  in  Seattle  Saturday  afternoon,  June  3,  remain  there  over  Sun- 
day, go  Monday  morning  to  Tacoma,  and  take  the  Alaska  steamer  there  Monday 
night.  On  the  return  from  Alaska,  Portland  and  the  Columbia  River  will  be  visited, 
and  the  party  will  then  proceed  eastward  over  the  Northern  Pacific  route  and  through 

186 


the  Yellowstone  National  Park.     It  will  spend  one  week  in  Chicago  and  be  due  in 
Boston  Friday,  July  14. 

The  total  distance  to  be  traveled  on  this  excursion  is  10,502  miles.  The  itinerary, 
subject  to  slight  possible  changes,  will  be  as  follows  :  — 

ITINERARY. 

Wednesday,  May  24.  First  Day. —  Leave  Boston  from  the  station  of  the  Southern  Division  of  the 
Boston  &  Maine  Railroad,  Causeway  street  (the  *'  Lowell  "  station),  at  9.00  a.  m.  Baggage  should  be 
checked  to  Montreal  z/zrt  Plymouth.  From  Boston  to  Montreal  via  the  Boston  &  Maine,  Concord  & 
Montreal,  and  Canadian  Pacific  Railways.  Dinner  at  the  Pemigewasset  House,  Plymouth,  N.  H. 
Arrive  in  Montreal  at  8.25  p.  m.  ;  omnibus  transfer  to  the  Windsor  Hotel,  George  W.  Swett,  manager. 

Thursday,  May  25.  Second  Day. —  In  Montreal.  Carriage  ride,  visiting  the  principal  churches, 
the  business  parts  of  the  city,  Mt.  Royal  Park,  the  Grey  Nunnery,  etc.  Transfer  to  the  Canadian 
Pacific  station,  and  leave  Montreal  at  8.20  p.  m. 

Friday,  May  26.  Third  Day. —  ^«  r^«/.?  vsrestward  in  Ontario;  meals  in  Canadian  Pacific  dining- 
car. 

Saturday,  May  27.     Fourth  Day. —  En  route  westward  around  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior. 

Sunday,  May  28.  Fifth  Day. —  Arrive  in  Winnipeg  at  an  early  hour.  Omnibus  transfer  to  The 
Manitoba,  Fred  W.  Sprado,  manager. 

Monday,  May  29.  Sixth  Day. —  In  Winnipeg.  Transfer  to  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  station, 
and  leave  at  3.00  p.  m. 

Tuesday,  May  30.     Seventh  Day. —  En  route  through  Assiniboia  and  Alberta. 

Wednesday,  May  31.  Eighth  Day. —  Arrive  at  Banff  at  6.45  a.  m.  ;  transfer  to  the  BanjEE  Springs 
Hotel,  W.  L.  Mathews,  manager. 

Thursday,  June  i.  Ninth  Day. — Transfer  from  the  Ban£E  Springs  Hotel,  and  leave  Banff  at  6.45 
A.  M. ;  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains  through  the  Kicking  Horse  Pass,  descend  to  the  Columbia  River  at 
Donald,  and  ascend  the  Selkirk  Mountains ;  arrive  at  Glacier  House,  near  the  Great  Glacier  of  the 
Selkirks,  at  2.00  p.  m.,  and  remain  until  the  ensuing  day. 

187 


Frtday,  June  2.  Tenth  Day. —  Leave  Glacier  House  at  2.25  p.  m.,  continue  westward  down  the 
lUecillewaet,  across  the  Columbia  the  second  time  at  Revelstoke,  and  through  the  Gold  range  and  the 
lake  region,  and  later  descend  the  Thompson  River  Canon. 

Saturday,  June  3.  Eleventh  Day. — Through  the  Fraser  River  Canon  and  from  Mission  Junction 
by  branch  line  to  New  Whatcom,  Wash. ;  thence  by  the  Great  Northern  Railway,  via  Fairhaven,  to 
Seattle;  arrive  in  Seattle  at  5.40  p,  m.,  and  transfer  to  The  Rainer,  DeL.  Harbaugh,  manager. 

Sunday,  June  4.     Twelfth  Day. —  In  Seattle. 

Monday,  June  5.  Thirteetith  Day. —  Transfer  to  the  Northern  Pacific  station,  and  leave  Seattle  at 
9.25  A.  M. ;  arrive  in  Tacoma  at  10.55  a.  m.  ;  transfer  to  The  Tacoma,  W.  K.  Hatch,  manager;  in  the 
evening  go  on  board  the  steamer  "  Queen,"  Captain  James  Carroll,  for  the  Alaska  voyage. 

Tuesday,  June  6.     Fourteenth  Day. 

Wednesday,  June  7.     Fifteenth  Day. 

Thursday,  June  8.     Sixteenth  Day. 

Friday,  June  9.    Seventeenth  Day. 

Saturday,  June  10.     Eighteenth  Day. 

Sunday,  June  11.     Nineteenth  Day. 

Monday,  June  12.     Twentieth  Day. 

Tuesday,  June  13.     Twenty  first  Day. 

Wednesday,  June  14.     Twenty-second  Day* 

Thursday,  June  15.     Twenty-third  Day. 

Note. —  On  the  return  the  steamer  will  remain  at  Victoria,  B.  C,  and  Port  Townsend  long  enough 
to  permit  of  an  inspection  of  those  cities. 

Friday,  June  16.  Twentyfourth  Day. —  In  Portland.  Carriage  ride  through  the  finest  residence 
and  business  sections  of  the  city,  and  to  the  park,  which  affords  a  magnificent  view. 

Saturday,  June  17.  Twenty-fifth  Day. —  Transfer  to  the  Union  Pacific  station,  and  leave  Portland 
at  8.45  A.  M.  for  a  trip  up  the  most  picturesque  parts  of  the  Columbia  River;  return  by  steamer  down 
the  Columbia  and  up  the  Willamette  ;  arrive  in  Portland  at  5.30  p.  m.  ;  transfer  to  the  hotel. 

Sunday,  June  18.     Twenty-sixth  Day. —  In  Portland. 


On  the  Alaska  voyage,  visiting  Fort  Wrangel, 
Juneau,  Douglas  Island,  Chilkaht,  the  great  Muir 
Glacier  in  Glacier  Bay,  Sitka,  Nanaimo,  etc.  The 
steamer  will  probably  return  on  Thursday,  June 
15.  The  party  will  leave  Tacoma  by  the  first  train, 
and  proceed  to  Portland,  where  the  passengers 
will  be  transferred  to  The  Portland,  Charles  E. 
Leland,  manager. 


Monday,  June  19.  Twenty-seventh  Day. —  Transfer  from  The  Portland  to  the  Northern  Pacific 
station,  and  leave  for  the  East  at  8.00  a.  m.  in  Pullman  palace  sleeping  cars. 

Tuesday,  June  20.     Twenty-eighth  Day. —  Arrive  at  Spokane  at  7.00  a.  m.,  and  leave  at  6.00  p.  m. 

Wednesday,  June  21.  Twenty-ninth  Day. —  En  route  through  Idaho  and  Montana;  arrive  at 
Helena  at  12.40  p.  m.  ;  leave  Helena  at  10.35  p*  m- 

Thursday,  June  22.  Thirtieth  Day. —  Arrive  at  Livingston  at  3.45  a.  m.,  and  proceed  thence  to 
Cinnabar  via  the  Yellowstone  Park  Branch ;  from  Cinnabar  to  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  by  stage,  arriving 
at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  at  12.30  p.  m. 

Friday,  June  23.  Thirty-first  Day. —  Leave  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  by  stage  at  8.00  a.  m.  ;  arrive 
at  Norris  Geyser  Basin  Hotel  at  12.30  p.  m.;  lunch  there;  leave  at  1.30  p.  m.  ;  arrive  at  Fountain  Hotel, 
Lower  Geyser  B?.sin,  at  6.30  p.  M. 

Saturday,  June  24.  Thirty-second  Day. —  Leave  Lower  Geyser  Basin  at  8.00  a.  m.,  visiting  the 
"  Excelsior  "  Geyser,  "  Prismatic  "  Lake,  and  **  Turquoise  "  Spring  in  the  Midway  Geyser  Basin  ;  arrive 
at  Upper  Geyser  Basin  Hotel  at  11.00  a.  m. 

Sunday,  June  25.     Thirty-third  Day. —  At  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin. 

Monday,  June  26.  Thirty-fourth  Day. —  Leave  Upper  Geyser  Basin  at  8.00  a.  m.  ;  arrive  at  West 
Bay,  or  Thumb  of  Yellowstone  Lake,  at  11.00  A.  M. ;  lunch  there;  leave  West  Bay  at  2.00  p.  m.;  arrive 
at  Yellowstone  Lake  Hotel  at  5.00  p.  m. 

Tuesday,  June  27.  Thirty-fifth  Day. —  Leave  Yellowstone  Lake  Hotel  at  10.00  a.m.;  arrive  at 
Grand  Canon  Hotel  at  i.oo  p.  M. 

Wednesday,  June  28.  Thirty-sixth  Day. —  Leave  Grand  Canon  Hotel  at  10.30  a.  m.;  arrive  at 
Norris  Geyser  Basin  Hotel  at  12.30  p.  m.  ;  lunch  there;  leave  at  1.30  p.  m.  ;  arrive  at  Mammoih  Hot 
Springs  at  5.30  p.  m. 

Thursday,  June  29.  Thirty-seventh  Day. —  Leave  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  at  2.00  p.  m.;  arrive  at 
Cinnabar  at  3.30  p.  m.  ;  leave  Cinnabar  at  4.15  P.  M.;  arrive  at  Livingston  at  6.15  p.  M.,  and  continue 
eastward  over  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad. 

Friday,  June  30.     Thirty-eighth  Day. —  En  route  through  Montana  and  North  Dakota. 

189 


Saturday,  July  i.  Thirty-ninth  Day. —  Arrive  in  Minneapolis  at  11.40  a.  m.  ;  transfer  to  the  West 
Hotel,  John  T.  West,  proprietor;  carriage  ride  in  the  afternoon,  with  visits  to  the  chief  business  and 
residence  sections,  the  bridge  below  St.  Anthony's  Falls,  etc. 

Sunday,  July  2.     Fortieth  Day. —  In  Minneapolis. 

Monday,  July  3.  Forty-first  Day. —  Transfer  to  the  Union  station  and  leave  Minneapolis  at  9.55 
a.  m.  ;  arrive  in  St.  Paul  at  10.30  a.  m.  ;  transfer  to  the  Hotel  Ryan,  Eugene  Mehl  &  Son,  proprietors.  In 
the  afternoon  carriage  ride,  visiting  the  Capitol,  Summit  avenue,  and  other  principal  places  of  interest. 

Tuesday,  July  4.  Forty  second  Day. —  In  St  Paul.  Transfer  to  the  station  of  the  Minneapolis  & 
St.  Louis  Railway,  and  leave  St.  Paul  by  the  Albert  Lea  route  at  7.00  p.  m. 

Wednesday,  July  5.  Forty-third  Day. —  Arrive  in  Chicago,  Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  Exposition 
station,  at  2.30  p.  m.  ;  transfer  to  the  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand  Hotel. 

Thursday,  July  6.    Forty-fourth  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Friday,  July  7.     Forty-fifth  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Saturday,  July  8.    Forty-sixth  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Sunday,  July  9.    Forty-seventh  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Monday,  July  10.     Forty-eighth  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Tuesday,  July  11.     Forty-ninth  Day. —  In  Chicago. 

Wednesday,  July  12.  Fiftieth  Day. —  In  Chicago.  Transfer  to  the  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  station, 
and  leave  at  3.00  v.  m.  ;  from  Chicago  to  Harvey  via  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad ;  from  Harvey  eastward 
through  Indiana,  Michigan,  and  Ontario  via  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  and  Grand  Trunk  Railways. 

Note. —  Passengers  who  return  to  Chicago  independently  must  notify  Carroll  Hutchins,  agent  for 
Raymond  &  Whitcomb,  at  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand,  Midway  Plaisance,  Chicago,  at  least  one 
week  in  advance,  in  order  to  insure  hotel  accommodations. 

Members  of  the  party  who  return  eastward  independently  from  Chicago  or  any  point  west  thereof 
will  be  required  to  exchange  their  eastbound  passage  and  sleeping-car  coupons  at  the  ticket  office  of  the 
Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway  at  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway  Crossing,  Blue  Island  Junction  ;  or 
at  the  Dearborn  station  (Polk  street,  at  the  head  of  Dearborn  street),  Chicago ;  or  at  the  city  ticket  office 

190 


of  the  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  103  South  Clark  street,  Chicago,  E.  H.  Hughes,  agent ;  or  at 
Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  office  in  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand,  Midway  Plaisance,  Carroll  Hutchins, 
agent.  All  applications  in  advance  for  sleeping-car  berths  should  be  addressed  to  Mr.  Hutchins  or  Mr. 
Hughes.     Niagara  Falls  is  the  only  point  east  of  Chicago  where  stop-over  privileges  are  permitted. 

Thursday,  July  13.  Fifty-first  Day. — Arrive  at  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y.,  at  8.30  a.  m.,  and  remain  until 
afternoon ;  leave  Niagara  Falls  by  the  West  Shore  Railroad  at  4.42  p.  m. 

Friday,  July  14.  Fifty-second  Day. —  From  Rotterdam  Junction  eastward  by  the  Fitchburg  Rail- 
road; arrive  in  Boston  at  10.00  a.  m. 


Standards  of  Time. 


Eastern  Standard. —  From  Boston  to  Port  Arthur,  Ont. 

Central  Standard,  one  hour  slower  than  Eastern  time. —  From  Port  Arthur  to  Brandon,  Manitoba. 

Mountain  Standard,  two  hours  slower  than  Eastern  time. —  From  Brandon  to  Donald,  B.  C. 

Pacific  Standard,  three  hours  slower  than  Eastern  time. —  From  Donald  to  Tacoma,  Wash. 

Steamer  Time. —  On  the  Alaska  voyage  steamer  time  varies  from  day  to  day  as  the  voyage  tends 
westward.  The  time  at  Sitka,  the  westernmost  point  reached  (135  degrees  and  52  minutes  west  from 
Greenwich),  is  reckoned  one  hour  slower  than  Pacific  standard. 

Pacific  Standard,  three  hours  slower  than  Eastern  time. —  From  Tacoma  to  Hope,  Id, 

Mountain  Standard,  two  hours  slower  than  Eastern  time. —  From  Hope  to  Mandan,  N.  D. 

Central  Standard,  one  hour  slower  than  Eastern  time. —  From  Mandan  to  Port  Huron,  Mich. 

Eastern  Standard. —  From  Port  Huron  to  Boston. 


191 


BOOKS  OF  AMERICAN  TRAVEL. 


A    Partial   List  of   Guides  for   the  Transcontinental   Tours. 


SHE  books  of  travel  and  adventure  relating  to  the  Pacific  Coast  and  to  the  different 
parts  of  the  country  passed  through  in  the  various  routes  across  the  continent  are 
legion.  Numerous  guide  books  of  a  local  character  may  be  bought  in  the  princi- 
pal localities  visited,  but  there  is  alack  of  comprehensive  books  of  this  class  covering 
the  long  transcontinental  lines.  Crofutt's  is  unquestionably  the  most  comprehensive. 
The  pul)lications  of  the  several  railroad  companies  are  generally  very  useful  in  this 
connection,  and  the  same  may  be  said  regarding  maps. 

The  Crest  of  the  Continent,  by  Ernest  Ingersoll,  is  a  graphic  description  of  the  scenery 
on  the  line  of  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  route. 

Over  the  Range  to  the  Goldeit   Gate^  by  Stanley   Wood,  is  another  excellent  work 
devoted  largely  to  the  same  route. 

The  Great  Northwest,  a  guide  book  and  itinerary  for  the  use  of  travelers  over  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad  and  its  allied  lines,  is  published  by  Riley  Brothers,  St.  Paul. 
Persons  desirous  of  gaining  information  relative  to  the  ancient  ruins  in  Colorado, 
New  Mexico,  Arizona,  etc.,  will  find  maps  and  interesting  papers  by  W.  H.  Jackson 
and  W.  H.  Holmes  in  the  Tenth  Annual  Report  (Professor  H.ayden's)  of  the  United 
States  Geological  and  Geographical  Survey  —  the  volume  for  1876.  The  Seventh  Annual 
Report  of  the   United  States   Geological  and  Geographical  Survey  (for  1873)   ^"^   *^^ 

193 


Smithsonian  Institution  Reports  for  18^4  and  i86g  also  contain  articles  upon  the  same 
subject. 

The  Round  Trip  from  the  Hub  to  the  Golden  Gate,  by  Susie  C.  Clark,  is  a  new  and 
entertaining  account  of  a  journey  to  the  Pacific  Coast  and  back  again  by  a  member  of 
one  of  our  excursion  parties.     Published  by  Lee  &  Shepard,  Boston. 

A  History  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  by  E.  V.  Smalley,  is  an  account  of  that 
great  enterprise  from  the  time  of  its  inception,  in  1834,  to  the  opening  of  the  road,  in 
1883. 

Dominion  of  Canada. 

There  are  innumerable  books  about  Canada,  but  little  has  been  written  in  book- 
form  about  the  scenery  on  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway.  The  most  useful  hand-book 
for  the  traveler  is  the  admirably  prepared  Time  Table,  with  Notes,  published  by  the 
company.  An  illustrated  pamphlet  entitled  The  New  Highway  to  the  Orient,  also 
issued  by  the  company,  contains  much  of  interest. 

W.  H.  H.  Murray  has  written  a  book  of  travel  (1888)  entitled  Daylight  Land.  It  is 
a  glowing  account  of  a  journey  over  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway. 

B.  C.  i88y,  A  Ramble  in  British  Columbia,  by  J.  A.  Lees  and  W.  J.  Clutterbuck,  is 
a  book  of  travel  issued  in  1888. 

Among  the  Selkirk  Glaciers,  by  William  Spottswood  Green  (London,  1890),  is  the 
fullest  account  of  the  Selkirk  mountains  yet  published. 

California* 
The  most  complete  and  exhaustive  work  upon  California  and  the  Pacific  Coast  is 
comprised  in  Hubert  Howe  Bancraft*s  series  of  volumes,  published  by  the  Bancroft 
Company,  San  Francisco, 

194 


All  About  Pasadena  and  Its  Vicinity^  by  Charles  Frederick  Holder,  is  a  compre- 
hensive guide  book,  published  by  Lee  &  Shepard,  of  Boston.  It  is  sold  at  %\  (cloth 
binding),  and  50  cents  (paper  covers),  and  will  be  forwarded  by  mail  from  this  office 
on  receipt  of  price. 

Southern  California,  by  Theodore  S.  Van  Qyke,  sets  forth  the  advantages  of  that 
region  both  as  a  place  of  interest  to  the  tourist  and  for  permanent  residence.  Cali- 
fornia of  the  South,  by  Walter  Lindley,  M.  D.,  and  J.  P.  Widney,  M.  D.,  is  a  new  work 
published  by  D.  Appleton  &  Co.,  of  New  York.  Other  works  relating  to  Southern 
California  are  the  following:  The  Climate  of  Southern  California:  Its  Relation  to 
Health,  by  P.  C.  Remondino,  M.  D. ;  The  Climate  of  Southern  California  :  Its  Relation 
to  Disease,  by  W.  A.  Edwards,  M.  D. ;  Californian  Fruits,  by  E.  J.  Wickson  ;  and 
Orange  Culture,  by  A.  C.  Fish. 

Some  of  the  publications  of  the  railway  companies  contain  much  valuable  informa- 
tion. The  Southern  Pacific  Company  have  issued  ihQ  Southern  Highway,  Shasta  — 
the  Keystone  of  California  Scenery  (by  E.  McD.  Johnstone),  California  Resorts,  That 
Wonderful  Country  (for  the  farmer  and  fruit  grower).  West  by  South,  Half  South  (by 
Mr.  Johnstone),  and  a  Climatic  Map  of  California. 

Major  Ben.  C.  Truman  has  recently  written  a  guide  entitled  Southern  California^ 
which  may  be  had  free  by  addressing  \V.  F.  White,  Traffic  Manager,  Chicago,  or  any 
of  the  agents  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad. 

Yosemite :  Where  to  Go,  and  What  to  Do,  by  Lewis  Stornaway,  can  be  found  at  the 
California  book-stores. 

Hand-book  of  the  Lick  Observatory,  by  Professor  Edward  S.  Holden,  is  invaluable  to 
persons  who  visit  Mount  Hamilton. 

195 


A  Pacific  Coast  Scenic  Tour^  by  Henry  T.  Finck,  is  a  recently  published  book 
descriptive  of  scenery  from  Southern  California  to  Alaska,  etc. 

Among  other  books  on  California  are  ///  the  Heart  of  the  Sierras^  by  J.  M.  Hatch- 
ings ;  Santa  Barbara  and  Around  There^  by  Edwards  Roberts ;  Ramona,  by  Helen 
Hunt  Jackson  ;  and  California  as  It  Is  and  WaSy  by  William  H.  Thomes  (also 
author  of  On  Land  and  Sea  and  Lewey  and  /,  two  books  of  early  adventure  on  the 
Pacific  Coast. 

Wild  Flowers  of  the  Pacific  Coast  and  Wild  Flowers  of  the  Rocky  Mountains ^  by 
Emma  Homan  Thayer,  are  two  superbly  illustrated  books,  published  by  Cassell 
&  Co.,  of  New  York.  The  illustrations  are  from  water-color  paintings  executed  by- 
Mrs.  Thayer,  and  reproduce  with  fidelity  every  shade  of  color  in  the  originals. 

Oregon  and  Washington. 

The  Wealth  and  Resources  of  Oregon  and  Washington^  by  C.  N.  Miller  (1889),  issued 
by  the  Union  Pacific  Railway  Co.,  is  the  latest  work  relating  to  the  Pacific  Northwest. 

Washington  Irving's  Astoria  and  Lewis  and  Clark's  narrative  of  their  expedition 
give  interesting  accounts  of  the  early  explorations  in  Oregon  and  other  parts,  of  the 
Pacific  Northwest. 

The  Northwest,  an  illustrated  monthly  publication  devoted  to  the  Northwest,  is 
issued  from  St.  Paul  at  $1.50  per  year.     E.  V.  Smalley  is  the  editor  and  publisher. 

Alaska. 

The  earliest  accounts  of  the  region  now  denominated  Alaska  are  probably  to  be 
found  in  the  narratives  of  the  early  voyages  of  Captain  Cook  and  Vancouver,  and  in 
J.  Von  Straehlin's  Account  of  the  New  Northern  Archipelago  (published  in  London, 

196 


1774)-  A  work  by  Baron  Ferdinand  von  Wrangel,  on  the  Russian  possessions  in 
America,  was  published  in  St.  Petersburg  in  1839. 

There  are  many  accounts  of  Alaska  in  the  United  States  government  reports,  and 
the  speeches  of  Charles  Sumner  in  the  Senate  {1867)  and  Nathaniel  P.  Banks  in  the 
House  of  Representatives  (1868)  will  be  perused  with  peculiar  interest.  Volume  28 
of  Hubert  Howe  Bancroft's  History  of  the  Pacific  States  of  North  America  gives  an 
historical  sketch  of  the  country,  and  popular  accounts  will  be  found  in  Hartwig's 
Polar  Worlds  Hours  at  Home,  the  Atlantic  Monthly  for  June,  1867,  Harper  s  Magazine 
for  1867  and  1869,  Lippiitcotf  s  Magazine  for  February  and  November,  1868,  and  the 
American  fournal  of  Science  iox  1867  and  188 1. 

Among  the  later  books  relating  to  Alaska  are  the  following :  — 

Travel  and  Adventure  in  the  Territory  of  Alaska,  by  Frederick  Whymper  (1869). 

Alaska  and  its  Resources,  by  William  Healey  Dall  (1870). 

Alaska  attd  Missions  on  the  North  Pacific  Coast,hy  Rev.  Sheldon  Jackson,  D.  D.,  (1880). 

The  Seal  Islands  of  Alaska,  by  Henry  W.  Elliott  (1881). 

Amojig  the  Alaskans,  by  Julia  McNair  Wright  (1883). 

Fifth  Avenue  to  Alaska,  by  Edwards  Pierrepont  (1884). 

Along  Alaska's  Great  Rtver,\iyYxQdi^x\^  Schwatka  (1885).  Lieutenant  Schwatka 
was  also  the  author  of  an  account  of  a  voyage  to  Alaska  printed  in  Wonderland,  a  pam- 
phlet issued  by  the  passenger  department  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  in  1886'atnd 
subsequently,  and  devoted  to  the  Yellowstone  National  Park  and  the  Pacific  Northwest. 

Alaska,  Its  Southern  Coast,  and  the  Sitkan  Archipelago,  by  E.  R.  Scidmore  (1885). 

A  Trip  to  Alaska,  by  George  Wardman  (1885). 

Our  Arctic  Provinces,  by  Henry  W.  Elliott  (1886). 

Our  New  Alaska  ;  or.  The  Seward  Purchase  Vindicated,  by  Charles,  Hallock  (i!830]j. 

197 


Report  oil  Education  in  Alaska,  by  Rev.  Sheldon  Jackson,  D.  D  (1886). 

Shores  and  Alps  of  Alaska,  by  H.  W.  Seton-Karr  (1887). 

Thirtee7t  Years  of  Travel  and  Exploratioii  in  Alaska,  by  W.  H.  Pierce  (edited  by 
Professor  and  Mrs.  J.  H.  Carruth). 

Picturesque  Alaska^  by  Abby  Johnson  Woodman  (1889). 

The  Ice  Age  in  North  America  and  its  Bearings  on  the  Antiquity  of  Man,  by  G. 
Frederick  Wright  ([889) ;  published  by  D.  Appleton  &  Co.,  New  York.  Chapter  II.  of 
this  work  is  devoted  to  the  glaciers  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  Chapter  III.  to  Professor 
Wright's  experiences  on  the  Muir  Glacier  in  1866. 

The  New  Eldorado,  a  Summer  Jour 7tey  to  Alaska,  by  Maturin  M.  Ballou  (1890). 
This  is  one  of  Mr.  Bailouts  latest  volumes  of  travels.  It  is  devoted  in  part  to  the 
Yellowstone  National  Park. 

The  Wonders  of  Alaska,  by  Alexander  Badlam,  published  by  the  Bancroft  Com- 
pany, San  Francisco  (1890).  This  and  Miss  Scidmore's  work  are  the  nearest  approach 
to  the  guide-book  form  of  anything  extant. 

A  Woman^s  trip  to  Alaska,  by  Septima  M.  CoUis  (1890). 

Alaskana  (the  legends  of  Alaska  in  poetic  form),  by  Dr.  !>ushrod  W.  James,  1892. 

The  Yellowstone  National  Park. 

The latest  and  most  useful  handbook  for  the  visitor  to  the  American  Wonderland  is 
the  /Practical  Guide  to  Yellowstone  National  Park,  by  A.  B.  Guptill,  illustrated  and 
published  by  F.  Jay  Haynes.  A  pocket  edition  (50  cents)  may  be  obtained  at  Mam- 
moth Hot  Springs. 

The  Fifth  Annual  Report  of  the  United  States  Geological  and  Geographical  Survey 
(fpr^Bjl)  contains  Dr.  F.  V.  Hayden's  original  account  of  the  Yellowstone  Park 

198 


region ;  and  the  subsequent  volumes  also  contain  much  relating  thereto,  the  fullest 
and  most  exhaustive  account  yet  prepared  appearing  in  the  Twelfth  Report  (for  1878). 
Part  II.  (503  pages),  together  with  numerous  maps,  includes  interesting  contributions 
by  W.  H.  Holmes  on  the  Geology  of  the  Park,  Dr.  A.  C.  Peale  on  Thermal  Springs, 
and  Henry  Gannett  on  the  Topography  of  the  Park.  An  interesting  paper  on  the 
Formation  of  Travertine  and  Silicious  Sinter  by  the  Vegetation  of  Hot  Springs^  by  Walter 
Harvey  Weed,  will  be  found  in  the  Ninth  Annual  Report  of  the  United  States  Geological 
Survey  (J.  W.  Powell,  director),  for  1887--88 ;  and  a  paper  on  Obsidian  Cliffs^  by  Joseph 
P.  Iddings  of  the  Survey,  appeared  in  the  Seventh  Annual  Report  for  ,1885-86. 

The  American  Encyclopcedia,  fohnson's  New  Universal  Encyclopcedia,  Picturesque 
America^  Scribner's  Magazine,  ior  187 1, '72,  and  ^^2}^  Lippincotfs  Magazine  for  1880, 
The  Southern  Magazine  for  187 1,  Appleton's  Journal  for  1881,  Nature  for  1872,  Cham- 
ber^ s  Journal  iox  1882,  and  the  United  States  Census  Report  iox  1880,  all  contain  articles 
relating  to  the  park;  and  the  later  works  on  geology  by  Geikie,  Dana,  and  LeConte 
have  scientific  references  to  its  marvels. 

There  are  many  books  of  travel  relating  to  the  park,  and  among  them  are  The  Great 
Divide,  by  Lord  Dunraven  ;  James  Richardson's  Wonders  of  the  Yellowstone ;  Horse- 
back Rides  through  the  Yelloivstone  Park,  by  H.  J.  Norton;  Camp  and  Cabin,  by 
Rossiter  W.  Raymond;  Rambles  in  Wonderland,  by  Edwin  J.  Stanley;  y4  Pilgrimage 
to  Geyser  Land ;  or,  Montana  on  Muleback,  by  Ellsworth  Spencer;  Rambles  Overland ^ 
by  Rev.  Almond  Gunnison,  D.  D. ;  and  The  New  Eldorado  (elsewhere  mentioned), sby 
Maturin  M.  Ballon. 

A  complete  list  of  all  works  having  reference  to  the  Yellowstone  Park  (published 
previous  to  1882),  and  also  lists  of  authorities  on  the  thermal  springs  of  all  parts  of 
the  world,  will  be  found  in  Hayden's  T^velfth  Report  (Part  II.,  pages  427-499). 

199 


Mr.  Arnold  Hague's  paper —  Geological  History  of  the  Yellowstone  National  Park — 
appears  in  the  "Transactions  of  the  American  Institute  of  Mining  Engineers  for 
1887." 

It  should  be  said  that  some  of  the  books  enumerated  in  the  foregoing  pages  are  out 
of  print,  and  obtainable  only  in  the  libraries. 

Photographs. 

Jackson's  Photographic  views  of  scenery  in  Colorado,  New  Mexico,  etc.,  may  be 
ordered  of  the  W.  H.Jackson  Photograph  Company,  161 5  Arapahoe  street,  Denver, 
Col.  Catalogues  will  be  sent  on  application.  W.  K.  Vickery,  108  Grant  avenue,  San 
Francisco,  is  agent  in  that  city  for  the  company. 

In  San  Francisco  choice  photographs  may  be  obtained  of  I.  W.  Taber  &  Co.,  No.  8 
Montgomery  street.  Fine  photographic  views  (large  or  small  sizes)  of  California 
scenery  may  be  had  of  Taber  &  Co. 

W.  H.  Partridge,  No.  2832  Washington  street,  Boston,  has  a  large  assortment  of 
Alaska  views.  Catalogues  will  be  sent  on  application.  These  views  may  be  purchased 
at  Sitka,  and  also  views  taken  by  Edward  de  Groff,  a  local  photographer. 

F.  J.  Haynes,  of  St.  Paul,  Minn.,  has  made  a  specialty  of  photographing  the  geysers 
and  other  wonders  of  the  Yellowstone  National  Park.  His  views  are  sold  at  the 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  and  also  at  No.  392  Jackson  street,  St.  Paul,  where  tourists 
will  be  welcomed  at  all  tim^s.     Catalogues  will  be  sent  from  St.  Paul  on  application. 

British  Columbia  views  may  be  obtained  of  Notman,  Montreal ;  Ross,  Best  &  Co., 
Winnipeg;  a,nd  Mrs.  R.  Maynard,  Victoria. 


A.     SERIES     OK     EXCURSIONS 

TO   THE 

WORLD'S  Columbian  Exposition. 


Magnificent  Vestibuled  Trains  of  Pullman  Palace  Sleeping  and  Dining-Cars,  a  New  and  Elegant 

First-Glass  Hotel  near  the  Fair  Grounds,  and  the  Best  Possible  Facilities 

for  Seeing  the  Great  Exhibition. 


For  the  purpose  of  providing  the  best  possible  facilities  for  visiting  the  World's 
Columbian  Exposition,  in  Chicago,  May  i  to  October  30,  we  have  made  the  most 
elaborate  plans.  Special  trains  of  vestibuled  Pullman  palace  cars,  comprising  both 
sleeping  and  dining-cars  of  the  latest  and  most  elegant  design,  will  leave  Boston  at 
frequent  intervals  during  the  entire  season,  constituting  nearly  a  daily  service.  There 
will  be  every  week  (with  only  one  exception)  at  least  four  trains,  and  at  times  this 
number  will  be  increased  to  five  and  six  trips  a  week. 

Two  routes  will  be  followed,  the  period  of  sojourn  in  Chicago  being  the  same. 
The  trains  leaving  Boston  Monday,  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  Thursday,  or  Friday,  will 
depart  from  the  Fitchburg  Railroad  station,  Causeway  street,  and  go  westward  via 
the  Fitchburg  (Hoosac  Tunnel  route).  West  Shore,  Grand  Trunk  (Southern  Division), 
and  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  lines.  Every  Saturday  forenoon  a  train  will  leave  the 
Southern  Division  station  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  system.  Causeway  street  (Boston 
&  Lowell  station),  the  route  westward  being  over  the  Boston  &  Maine,  Concord  Sc 

201 


Montreal,  Central  Vermont,  Grand  Trunk,  and  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railways. 
Sunday  will  be  passed  at  Niagara  Falls,  the  train  resuming  its  westward  journey 
Monday  morning  soon  after  midnight.  The  westbound  trains  by  the  Fitchburg  route 
go  through  to  Chicago  without  delays  at  any  point,  arriving  at  their  destination  the 
succeeding  evening.  Niagara  Falls  will  be  visited  on  the  return.  The  parties  going 
westward  via  the  Boston  &  Maine  and  Grand  Trunk  route  return  from  Chicago 
direct,  the  visit  to  Niagara  Falls  being  made  on  the  outward  trip. 

Recognizing  the  fact  that  ordinary  hotel  accommodations  would  be  inadequate,  we 
have  built  an  elegant  and  commodious  hotel  of  the  best  class,  which  will  meet  the 
requirements  of  the  most  exacting  traveler.  The  Raymond  &  Whitcomb  Grand, 
Oscar  G.  Barron,  manager,  situated  on  Fifty-ninth  street,  Washington  and  Madison 
avenues,  is  made  of  fire-proof  materials,  the  walls  being  of  pressed  brick,  and  every 
luxurious  appointment  of  a  modern  first-class  hotel  has  been  introduced.  A  well- 
lighted  and  thoroughly  well-ventilated  bath  and  toilet  room  communicates  with  every 
sleeping-room.  For  a  full  description  of  the  hotel  see  page  15  of  this  circular.  A 
special  railway  station  within  two  squares  of  the  hotel,  which,  like  the  hotel,  is  to  be 
used  solely  for  our  passengers,  will  further  enhance  the  comfort  of  the  tourist. 

Every  needful  item  of  expense,  inclusive  of  first-class  railway  fare,  a  double  berth 
(half  a  section)  in  the  sleeping-cars,  meals  in  the  dining-cars  en  route,  hotel  accom- , 
modations  for  one  week,  transfers  to  and  from  the  hotel,  twelve  admissions  to  the 
Exposition  grounds,  care  of  baggage,  and  services  of  conductors,  is  included  in  each 
ticket. 

Further  details,  copies  of  the  special  Exposition  circular,  and  all  required  informa- 
tion, may  be  obtained  of 

RAYMOND  &  WHITCOMB,  296  Washington  St.  (opposite  Scliooi  St.),  Boston,  Mass. 


Grand  Summer  and  Autumn  Tours, 

In  July,  August,  and  September,  1893. 


ALASKA  VIA  THE  CANADIAN  PACIFIC  RAILWAY. 

Parties  will  leave  Boston  July  8,  and  22  for  two  unsurpassed  tours  of  56  days  over  the  most  pictur- 
esque routes  in  the  world.  The  outward  journey  from  ocean  to  ocean  to  be  by  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway,  and  the  return  by  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  with  a  week  in  the  Yellowstone  National  Park. 

THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  OF  COLORADO. 

Parties  will  leave  Boston  June  5,  July  17,  August  28,  September  11,  and  October  9,  and  Chicago  eight 
days  later,  for  delightful  sight-seeing  trips  to  Pueblo,  the  Royal  Gorge  of  the  Arkansas,  Tennessee  Pass, 
The  Colorado  at  Glenwood  Springs,  Leadville,  Manitou,  Pike's  Peak,  and  Denver. 

COLORADO  AND  THE  YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 

Parties  will  leave  Boston  July  10  and  August  7,  and  Chicago  July  18  and  August  15,  for  two  attrac- 
tive excursions  to  the  Yellowstone  National  Park,  in  connection  with  trips  through  Colorado  and  Utah, 
including  visits  to  Denver,  Manitou,  the  summit  of  Pike's  Peak,  the  Royal  Gorge,  Glenwood  Springs, 
Salt  Lake  City,  the  mining  districts  of  Anaconda  and  Butte,  etc. 

THE  YELLOWSTONE  PARK  AND  CALIFORNIA. 

A  party  will  leave  Boston  August  30,  and  Chicago  September  7,  for  a  magnificent  tour  of  72  days 
across  the  continent,  including  a  week  in  the  Yellowstone  National  Park,  with  a  visit  to  California  and 
a  return  homeward  through  Utah,  Colorado,  etc. 

The  foregoing  excursions  include  in  each  instance  a  week  at  the  World's  Columbian 
Elxposition.     All  travel  in  magnificent  palace  sleeping-cars  with  dining-cars. 

SHORT  TRIPS  TO  LEADING  EASTERN  RESORTS. 

Parties  will  leave  Boston  weekly  during  the  season  for  complete  rounds  of  the  leading  New  England, 
New  York,  and  Canadian  resorts  —  the  White  Mountains,  Saratoga,  Lake  George,  Quebec,  the 
Saguenay,  etc. 

descriptive  circulars,  tickets,  and  all   required  information  can  be  obtained  of 

RAYMOND  &  WHITCOMB,  296  Washington  St.  (opposite  School  St.),  Boston. 
203 


flpJlUflL  WINTER  TRIPS  TO  CflMFOHHiA 

For  t]:ie  Season  of  1893-94. 

Our  annual  series  of  winter  tours  to  the  Pacific  Coast,  intended  especially  for  the 
accommodation  of  persons  who  desire  to  make  extended  sojourns  at  the  various  Cali- 
fornia resorts  (although  equally  available  for  shorter  trips),  will  begin  in  October,  and 
continue  at  short  intervals  through  November,  December,  January,  February,  and 
March.  Magnificent  trains  of  vestibuled  Pullman  palace  cars,  with  Pullman  palace 
dining-cars,  are  brought  into  requisition  for  all  the  tours,  affording  for  the  entire  jour- 
ney accommodations  not  otherwise  attainable.  A  choice  of  routes  both  ways  is  given, 
and  the  tickets  may  be  used  returning  independently,  so  that  the  individual  wishes  of 
travelers  are  fully  met. 

Full  details  will  be  announced  at  an  early  date  in  our  book,  "A  Winter  in  California." 


TOURS  thHouoh  mEXico. 

Our  excursions  through  Mexico,  which  have  proved  so  popular  during  the  past 
nine  years,  will  be  resumed  in  January.  As  the  facilities  for  travel  in  that  interesting 
country  are  increased,  we  shall  add  to  the  attractiveness  of  these  tours.  There  will 
be  two  or  three  trips  to  include  California,  and  one  or  more  with  a  return  direct  from 
Mexico,  without  the  visit  to  California. 


EXCURSION  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS. 

Our  sixth  annual  trip  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  will  take  place  in  the  early  spring  of 
1894,  the  party  sailing  from  San  Francisco.  Particulars  of  the  tour  will  be  given  in 
the  circular  of  Winter  Trips  to  California. 

204 


List  of  Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  Offices. 


CHIEF  OFFICE,  296  Washington  Street,  opposite  School  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 

New  York  Office :     31  East  Fourteenth  Street,  corner  of  Union  Square,  Raymond  &  Whitcoaib. 

Philadelphia  Office:  m  South  Ninth  Street,  under  Continental  Hotel,  Raymond  &  Whitco»b. 

Chicag^o  Office  :     103  South  Clark  Street,  corner  Washington  Street,  E.  H.  Hughes,  Agent. 

And  dmring  the  World's  Columbian   Exposition,    The   Raymond  &   Whitcomb   Grand,   Midway 
Plaisance,  Raymond  &  Whitcomb. 


Agents   on   the   Pacific   Coast. 

For  Southern.  California :    Charles  C.  Harding,  Agent,  The  Raymond,  East  Pasade»a,  Cal. 

liOS  Angeles  Office  :     138  South  Spring  Street,  Raymond  &  Whitcomb,  F.  W.  Thompson,  Agent, 

San  Francisco  Offices:  Room  89,  Crocker  Building,  opposite  Palace  Hotel,  Carroll  Hutching, 
Agent  (during  Winter  and  Spring) ;  and  also  36  Montgomery  Street  (corner  Sutter  Street),  Clihtom 
Jones,  Agent. 

Portland  (Or.)  Office  :     121  First  Street,  corner  Washington  Street,  A.  D.  Charlton,  Agent. 

205 


AGENTS     IN     EUROPE. 

We  have  recently  completed  arrangements  whereby  persons  in  Europe  can  join  any 
of  our  American  tourist  parties,  and  be  supplied  with  tickets  inclusive  of  all  incidental 
expenses  from  their  point  of  departure.  Our  representatives  abroad  are  the  Com- 
pagnie  Internationale  de  Voyages,  25  Rue  des  Mathurins,  Paris,  and  the  agents  of 
the  Compagnie  Internationale  des  Wagons  Lits  et  des  Grands  Express  Europeens, 
under  whose  direction  sleeping-cars  and  dining  and  restaurant  cars  are  run  over  all 
the  important  railway  lines  throughout  Europe.  All  required  information  may  be 
obtained  at  any  of  the  agencies  of  the  company,  where  tickets  and  sleeping-car  berths 
for  the  European  journey,  steamship  accommodations,  etc.,  may  also  be  secured. 

Persons  residing  in  America,  and  having  friends  abroad  who  are  likely  to  be  inter- 
ested in  these  excursions,  are  requested  to  send  addresses  to  us,  in  order  that  descrip- 
tive circulars  and  other  information  may  be  forwarded. 

List  of  Foreign  Agencies. 
Paris*  —  Compagnie  Internationale  de  Voyages,  25  Rue  des  Mathurins; 

ALSO,   THE    OFFICES   OF  THE   COMPAGNIE  INTERNATIONALE   DES   WaGONS   LiTS 

et  des  Grands  Express  EuROPi:ENS,  3  Place  de  l'Opera,  Ticket  Office 
OF  Hotel  Terminus,  Ticket  Office  at  the  Gare  du  Nord,  and  the 
Bureau  of  the  Chief  Inspector  of  the  Service,  46  Rue  des  Math- 
urins. 

London.  — 122  Pall  Mall,  S.  W.,  Henry  M.  Snow,  London  Manager  of  the 
International  Sleeping-Car  and  European  Express  Trains  Company. 

Vienna. — 15  Karnthner  Ring.  ^ 

Berlin. —  69  Unter  den  Linden. 

Rome. —  31  AND  32  Via  Condotti. 

206 


ALGERIA. 

Alg^iers. —  Office  of    the    Compagnie    Generale 
Transatlantique. 

Oran.—  Office  of  the  Compagnie  Generale  Trans- 
atlantique. 

Tunis. —  Office  of  the  Compagnie  Generale  Trans- 
atlantique. 

AUSTRIA-HUNGARY. 

Agram. —  Ticket  Office  of  the  Hungarian  State 
Railways. 

Srasso. —  Henri  Aronsohm,  Chief  of  the  Bureau 

des  Voyagers,  Hungarian  State  Railways- 
Budapest. —  Schenker    &    Company,  2    Wag- 
gasse     (Grand    Hotel     Hungaria);    and    M. 
Schwimmer,  official  agent  of  the  Hungarian 
State  Railways. 

Carlsbad  1, Bohemia).—  Rudolph  Mayer,  Bureau 
des  Voyagers. 

Clousembourg.—  Bureau  des  Voyagers,  Hun- 
garian State  Railways. 

He  rculesbad.— Office  of  Direction  of  the  Baths. 

Marienbad  (Bohemia). — Stingl  &  Stern. 

Prasrue  (Bohemia). —  Schenker  &  Company,  21 
Heuwags-platz. 

BELGIUM. 

Brussels.—  Hotel  de  Belle- Vue. 

Liege. —  M.  Crahay,  Rue  de  1' University. 
BULGARIA. 

Sofia. —  Schenker  &  Company. 
ENGLAND. 

Birmiiigham.—  Mr.  Lavery,  137  New  street. 

Liverpool.—  Thomas    Meadows    &    Company, 
Water  street. 

Manchester. —  Thomas  Meadows  &  Company, 
Piccadilly. 

Portsmouth. —  Curtiss  &  Sons. 

Kyde  (Isle  of  Wight). —  Curtiss  &  Sons. 


FRANCE. 
Aix  les  Baiug.—  M.  Mermoz,  Place  du  Revard. 
Bagneres  de  Luchoii.—  M.   Lafont,  library, 

61,  AUee  d'Etigny. 
Biarritz.—  M.  Delvaille,  Place  de  la  Mairie. 
Bordeaux. —  Office  of  the  Compagnie  des  Che- 

mins  de  Fer  du  Midi,  10  Cours  du  30th  Juillet. 
Calais. —  Railway  station  on  the  Pier(Gare  Mari- 
time); and  15  Rue  de  I'Etoile. 
Cannes.— 63  Rue  d'Antibes. 
Cauterets. —  8  Avenue  du  Mamelon  Vert. 
Chalt»ns-8ur-Marne. —  14  Rue  de  Marne  (office 

ot  Chemins  de  Fer  de  I'Est). 
Clermont-Ferrand.— At  the  Railway  station. 
Hendaye. —  At  the  Railway  station. 
Hyeres. —  Messrs.  True  &  Fugairon,  6  Avenue 

Alphonse  Denis. 
Havre. —  R.  Odinet,  armateur,  4  and  14,  Rue  Ed. 

Larue. 
Luchon. —  M.  Lafont,  library,  6i  All^e  d'Etigny. 
Lyons.—  Grand  Hotel  Collet. 
Marseilles. —  12  Rue  dela  Republique  ;  and  the 

Railway  station. 
Mentone. —  M.    Massierra,    14    avenue     Victor 

Emmanuel. 
Monte  Carlo  (Monaco), —  Hotel  de  Paris. 
Nancy. —  31  Rue  Gambetta  (Compagnie  Chemins 

de  Ferde  I'Est). 
Nice. —  2  Quai  Massena. 
Pau.  — M.  Malan,  20  Rue  Latapie. 
Koyat. — M.  Carreau,  Bureau  de  Renseigneraents, 

Pare  de  Royat. 

GERMANY. 
Cologne. —  No.  8  Domhof. 
Frankfort-on-the-Main. —  Messrs.  Schotten- 

fels  &  Company. 
Hamburg.  —  Hamburger      Hof,      6      Grosse 

Bleichen. 
Homburg. —  Messrs.  Sehottenfels  &  Company. 


207 


licmberg.  — Office  of  the  Carl-Ludwigsbahn. 
Munich. —  Messrs.   Schenker    &    Company,  44 

Neuhauserstrasse  ;  and  at  the  Central  Railway 

station. 
Neustrelitz. —  2  Bahnhofstrasse. 
Strasburg.— At  the  Railway  station. 

GREECE. 
Corfu. —  Gazzi  Freres,  Grand  Hotel  d' Angleterre 
et  Belle-Venifie. 

HOLLAND. 

Tlissingen  (Flushing).— At  the  Railway  station 
on  the  Pier. 

ITALY. 

Bordighera. —  Banque  Anglo-Ligurienne,  Rue 
Victor  Emmanuel. 

Brindi^i.  —  Office  of  the  Compagnie  Peninsulare 
Orientale, 

FloreiKje. —  Office  at  the  Railway  station. 

Genoa.— Gondrand  Freres,  at  the  Railway  sta- 
tion. 

Messina  (Sicily).— Orlandi    Bonfiglio   &    Com- 
pany. 

Milan. —  Gondrand    Freres,    24    Galerie    Victor 
Emmanuel. 

Naples.- M.   Grimaldi,  Santa  Brigida;  and  at 
the  Railway  station. 

San  Kemo. —  M.  Massiera,  5  Via  Roma. 

Turin. —  At  the  Railway  station. 

Venice.—  At  the  Railway  station. 

Ventimiglia.— M.  Massiera,  Place  de  la  Gare. 

PORTUGAL. 
Ijisbon. —  Rua  do  Principe ;  and  at  the  Railway 

station. 
Oporto. —  M.  Falcao,  city  railway  ticket  office, 

100  Rua  Sa  da  Bandiera ;  and  at  the  Railway 

station. 


ROUMANIA. 
Bacbarest* — Grand  Hotel  du  Boulevard;  city 

railway  ticket  office ;  and  Gare  du  Nord. , 
Galatz. —  Grand  Hotel  Metropole. 
Jassy.- Grand  Hotel  Trajan. 
RUSSIA. 
Graniza. —  Messrs.  Reicher  &  Company. 
Moscow^. —  Maison     Peters,     Chaussee    de     St. 

Petersburg. 
St.  Petersburg. —  7  Grand  Morskaia. 
Varsovie.—  13   Rue  Santa-Kryska ;    and  at  the 

Railway  station. 
"Wirballen.— At  the  Railway  station. 

SCOTLAND. 
Edinburgh.— Messrs.    J.   &    H.    Lindsay,    31 

Princess  street. 
Glasgow. —  Thomas  Meadows  &   Company,  10 

South  Hanover  street. 

SERVIA. 
Belgrade. —  St.  Georges  Petrobits,  Chief  of  the 

city  railway  tick\;t  office. 
SPAIN. 
Barcelona. —  Hotel  des  Quatre  Nations. 
Irun. —  At  the  Railway  station. 
Madrid. —  i  Puerta  del  Sol. 
Seville.— Grand  Hotel  de  Madrid. 

SWITZERLAND. 
Basle. —  Opposite  the  Railway  station,  No.  19. 
Geneva. —  28  Grand  Quai;  and  at  the  Railway 

station. 
Zurich.— Messrs.  Hirschkorn  &  Grob,  bankers, 
at  the  Railway  station. 

TURKEY. 
Constantinople. —  152  Grand  Rue  de  Pera. 
Salonlque. —  M.  Theod  Chavanis. 

208 


HOTEL    DEL   CORONADO,    CORONADO    BEACH  (near  San   Diego),    CALIFORNIA. 


